Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Hodinkee Japan's Favorite Lots From The Phillips 'TOKI: Watch Auction'
Important watches from Japanese watchmaking history, JDM limited editions, and some oddball offerings.
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith x Collective Defy Skyline C.X Edition (Live Pics)
Collective Horology and Zenith reveal their second collaboration in this new ultra-modern take on the Defy Skyline.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Designing the Future with AWAKE
AWAKE is a French horological brand with a very unique take on the future of watches. They are intent on using the culture and traditions of métiers d’art-or artisanal craftsmanship-to carve a new pathway apart from trends that so often get repeated time and time again in this particular industry. Prior to the Windup Windup Watch Fair, we met up with the AWAKE team, Lilian Thibault and Thibaut Sacre, on The High Line in NYC for a quick discussion on the brand, the importance of métiers d’art, their latest Sơn Mài collection, and what the future holds for AWAKE. The post Designing the Future with AWAKE appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition for Collective Horology
Since its inception in 2018, Collective Horology, a “proudly headquartered in Ventura, California” club for watch enthusiasts, has become quite famous through the Collective Series, which involves collaborations and limited editions with watch brands like IWC, H. Moser & Cie., Armin Strom, Czapek and Oris, to name a few and the Portfolio Series, which commissions […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Monochromatic Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition
Since Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly founded Collective Horology in 2018, the company has become known as one of the leading US-based retailers of watches from independent brands. But Collective has also collaborated with several brands on an impressive number of limited editions. For its tenth collaborative effort, Collective teamed up with Zenith again for […] Visit Introducing: The Monochromatic Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition to read the full article.
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Introducing: Oris Big Crown Pointer Date in Bronze
Monochrome
Introducing – With The SUB 200T Diamonds, Doxa Adds Some Sparkle To Its Most Compact Diver
Doxa is renowned for crafting rugged watches with a focus on functionality – tool watches, all featuring that toughness, high-water resistance or scratch-proof sapphire crystal you expect from utilitarian divers. Today, mechanical watches are as much luxury items as they are functional tools. In response to “strong demand from markets”, the brand’s compact and rather […]
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel
The year’s Vacheron Constantin (VC) Les Cabinotiers collection of unique timepieces explore the mythology of time across different cultures. A trio of unique pieces with miniature enamel dials, Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Japanese Culture are time-only watches with exquisite dial art, each depicting a Japanese deity. The functional simplicity of the three watches contrast with their Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin counterparts equipped with tourbillon regulators. While the tourbillon-equipped models take inspiration from Greek fables and wider East Asian culture, the present pieces are specifically focused on Japanese themes. Each of the three watches is equipped with a one-of-a-kind dial crafted with enamelling and engraving by VC’s in-house artisans. Initial thoughts VC’s endeavour bringing forth elements of time-related mythology from different cultural perspectives is laudable – and also logical given their application on a wristwatch. Moreover, the concept is executed well both in terms of style and technique in the 2024 Les Cabinotiers line-up. Les Cabinotiers (and also Metiers d’Art) demonstrate VC’s mastery of artisanal decoration. The dials in the Japanese Culture trio are achieved with several techniques in tandem, namely engraving and enamelling, but done in-house. The artful combination of technique results in a very-appealing series of unique creations. In fact, these watches are decorated with techniques similar to the incredible Les Cabinotier...
SJX Watches
Chronicles of Precision: The Quest for Equation of Time Part II
Continuing from part I of the history of the equation of time. In the late 17th century, London’s clockmaking landscape experienced a remarkable surge of innovation and collaboration, fuelled by interactions among prominent horologists and the broader scientific community. Among this period’s leading figures were Christian Huygens and Robert Hooke, who made substantial strides in crafting clocks that could precisely display solar time without the need for cumbersome equation tables. This era marked the advent of the equation cam, a revolutionary mechanism designed to reconcile the disparities between solar time and mean time. Inspired by the analemma-a figure-eight pattern illustrating the Sun’s varying positions in the sky throughout the seasons-these mechanisms featured a distinctive mathematically calculated kidney-shaped cam, symbolising a pivotal step forward in horological precision and accuracy. At the heart of this innovation lies the cam and lever mechanism, an integral component of the invention. It comprises a shaft propelled by the clock’s mechanism, completing a full rotation annually. Affixed to this shaft is a meticulously crafted kidney-shaped cam, tailored precisely to match the annual fluctuations outlined by the equation. This cam engages with a follower and a connected lever, facilitating the seamless translation of its rotational motion into practical adjustments within the timepiece. Drawing of an equation pendulum by Ferdinand Berthoud (1...
Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g Introduces the Third Generation of the 01SERIES Chronograph
I had the privilege of writing about the last Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Salm0n release for Worn & Wound in September. Serendipitously, Studio Underd0g was in Montreal the following week with the RedBar traveling road show. It was a real treat to see and handle their watches in person finally. They even had one of their Pizza watches and their Moser collaboration. The latter was quite exquisite, as was the new Salm0n, but part of me hoped that Studio Underdog wasn’t moving upscale, leaving behind what got them there in the first place: affordable, whimsical chronographs that make you smile when you look down at your wrist. When I learned that Seagull had announced a new minimum order quantity of 10,000 units for their ST-19 series movements, I became concerned about Studio Underd0g’s most popular model, the 01SERIES. This worry was heightened by the brouhaha that followed the collaboration with Moser and the decision to use Sellita-based movements in their 03SERIES. Fear not, as Studio Underd0g has successfully contracted Seagull to create an exclusive and enhanced version of their caliber called the ST-1901B. This reaffirms their commitment to providing mechanical chronographs priced under $1,000. For those unfamiliar with the history of the ST-19 column-wheel chronograph movement, its origins are Swiss. In 1961, Venus sold its machinery, tooling, and blueprints for the Venus 175 caliber to the Tianjin Watch Factory. They then upgraded the original 17-jewel movement to ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Millennium Watch Book Travel Watch Edition
Following the previous 4 editions – The Millennium Watch Book, Tourbillon Watches, Divers Watches and Chronographs – GMT Publishing now releases a fifth opus in their The Millenium book series. This 2024 edition is dedicated to travel watches (displaying additional time zones), a highly practical and purposeful function for globetrotters, frequent travellers and those doing […]
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Is this the best or worst Tudor/Rolex?
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Adds a 37mm C1 Moonphase
It’s getting close to the end of the year, and many of us are naturally in a reflective mood. I’d like to think I speak for most watch writers when I say that for us, it’s all about looking back at the almost incalculable number of watches we saw over the course of the year, and the reviews they spawned. Considering all the watches I got to look at this year, there are a handful that really stand out, and the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase is easily one of them. We talk about Christopher Ward a lot around here because they continue to surprise us, expanding the very definition of what a “Christopher Ward” can be, and the C1 Moonphase is one of my favorite examples of that. It’s truly an art piece – made of slabs of aventurine with no markers to speak of and accented with giant, glowing moons in constant rotation. In a quiet way, it’s every bit as adventurous as the Bel Canto or Twelve X. If there was one issue with it, though, it was the size. At just over 40mm, it was perhaps a little big for some who expect a watch like this to be more discreet. If that describes you, you’re in luck, as Christopher Ward has just announced a new version of the C1 Moonphase in a more versatile 37mm size. If you envision a watch like this as an accent to a suit (maybe even a tuxedo) or you simply have smaller wrists or prefer a more traditional dress watch size, this new version should have a ton of appeal. Personally, I stand by my original review, where I wrote that a...
Quill & Pad
Catching My First Wild Trout Fly Fishing in Scotland
On the third cast, the nymph hits the water with a distinct plop and there is a sharp tug on the line. I instinctively set the hook, a glint of gold and brown breaks the surface. I have just caught my first wild trout.
Deployant
New: Louis Moinet Starman
Jean-Marie Schaller continues to romance the stars with his latest creation for Louis Moinet - the Starman. A piece featuring hand painting and meteorite.
Monochrome
Introducing – Awake Honours the Tradition of Poppies on Remembrance Day with its Son Maì ‘The Poppies’
Our readers might remember reading about the fledgeling French brand Awake, which has taken the ancestral Vietnamese art of sanded natural lacquer and applied it to the dial of its first permanent collection, Son Mài. Inspired by the bright red colour of Remembrance Day poppies, Awake has produced a special Son Maì edition and will […]
Time+Tide
Heinrich forges ahead with the new Taucher Lume Infused Forged Carbon V2
Germany's Heinrich blends 70s and 80s style with ultra-modern material tech for its latest watch.The post Heinrich forges ahead with the new Taucher Lume Infused Forged Carbon V2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Jaeger LeCoultre launch a stunning dial for their limited edition sports watch - Polaris Date
Fratello
Monday Morning With Greubel Forsey’s 10th Fundamental Invention, The Nano Foudroyante EWT
What better way to celebrate your 20th anniversary than by throwing a small party? No, even a tiny party is way too exuberant for Greubel Forsey, Haute Horlogerie manufacturer par excellence. That’s why the brand throws a nano party. And that’s big news because the Nano Foudroyante EWT is Greubel Forsey’s 10th “Invention Piece.” The […] Visit Monday Morning With Greubel Forsey’s 10th Fundamental Invention, The Nano Foudroyante EWT to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Striking BA111OD Chapter 4 Tourbillons
BA111OD is still a young brand in a world of watches that is full of historical powerhouses. But ever since its founding in 2019, BA111OD has quickly made a name for itself with some interesting new ideas. There is plenty to check out, from the compelling business model to the integration of connectivity and the […] Visit Hands-On With The Striking BA111OD Chapter 4 Tourbillons to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Voutilainen Gives the KV20i Reversed a Cherry Facelift
Although the Voutilainen style is rooted in tradition, sometimes it encompasses less-than-conservative watches, like the Voutilainen KV20i Reversed Cherry, a colourful variant of the brand’s signature inverted-movement model. Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected contemporary independent watchmakers - and for good reason. He has struck a perfect balance between the artisanal aspects of horology with enough business acumen to guarantee him absolute creative liberty and longevity. Despite his success, Mr Voutilainen didn’t scale up his namesake brand, instead choosing to continue making small-run timepieces. While the KV20i Reversed Cherry is not a limited edition, only a handful will be made, as is typical of the brand. Initial thoughts The Vingt-8 Reversed is a staple of the Voutilainen collection, having started five years ago with the 28TI – short for “Titanium Inverse”. An evolution of the Inverse, the KV20i Reversed is remarkably similar, although much has changed in terms of details. Voutilainen wristwatches are characterised by two key traits: impeccable movements and hand-made guilloche dials sporting deep and rich patterns. The Reversed puts the former in the front, taking the place of the dial, while guilloche is concealed on the back. While a guilloché front dial will surely be missed, the visible mechanics more than compensate. The latest incarnation of Voutilainen’s in-house cal. 28 reverses the construction, which required a number ...
SJX Watches
Chronicles of Precision: The Quest for Equation of Time Part I
Central to our comprehension of time is the intricate interplay between the celestial dance of heavenly bodies and the pursuit of accuracy. Throughout history, mankind’s perception and quantification of time has evolved with its interaction with the natural environment. From ancient times when the rhythm of the Sun governed daily existence to the modern day of standardised timekeeping ushered in by mechanical innovations, human ingenuity has been instrumental in shaping this odyssey. Unfolding within this tale is the rare horological complication, the equation of time, a captivating chapter in the ongoing saga of humanity’s temporal exploration. The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 with its kidney-shaped cam that governs the equation of time display. Image – Breguet Dawn of Timekeeping: Celestial Observations and Ancient Innovations The genesis of civilisation ushered in humanity’s bond with the cosmos, as early communities devotedly charted the celestial events that dictated the rhythm of their lives. This connection was not merely academic; the alternation of day and night, the moon’s phases, and the Sun’s shifting journey through the heavens were the foundation upon which the ancients built their methods of marking time. In civilisations like those of Mesopotamia, Egypt, and ancient China, a deep-seated knowledge of the heavens was crucial for survival. The predictable cycles of day and night governed the timing of essential activities such ...
Fratello
Universal Genève Returns With Three One-Off SAS Polerouter Watches
In December 2023, Breitling purchased Universal Genève and announced that the brand would return to the marketplace in 2026. Since then, speculation about the models and movements has run rampant. We still don’t have any information to share. Still, Universal Genève has announced three one-off Polerouter watches that celebrate the 70th anniversary of the SAS […] Visit Universal Genève Returns With Three One-Off SAS Polerouter Watches to read the full article.
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Which Rolex Explorer - 36mm or 39mm?
Deployant
GPHG 2024: Commentary on six of the winners
The GPHG has just ended. And the jury and Academy has spoken. But from our POV, who should have won? Here our picks, and a comparison to the 6 who won.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Six Watches that Confirm Green is Here to Stay
We often talk about trends in watches, as designs, materials and colours regularly follow the preferences of the public. Sometimes, though, these trends phase out very slowly or not at all. And when it comes to colour, that’s always a very enjoyable topic of debate. Take blue, for instance, which was at one point ‘the […]
Fratello
Grail Material: Spending Time With A 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508
You know what they say: “Don’t meet your heroes. It will only disappoint you. The curtain will lift on your enamored illusions, and you will come out sadder and wiser, maybe even cynical.” So when Nacho asked me if I would be interested in doing a hands-on with a 65-year-old Rolex Submariner, I was apprehensive. […] Visit Grail Material: Spending Time With A 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 to read the full article.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT
Welcome back to Sunday Morning Showdown, your steady diet of weekly watch duels. This time, Jorg and Mike battle it out with a pair of vintage-inspired GMTs. But which does it best? Will it be the impressive Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT that came out earlier this year during Watches and Wonders? Or will the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Bremont Supermarine 300m GMT Collection
Combining a dive watch with a traveller’s function has become a classic over the years, offering immense versatility. At Bremont, this concept was personified for many years by the Supermarine S302 GMT Diver, but since the brand is currently restructuring its strategy and collection, many expected to see a new model occupying this specific niche. […]
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