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Highlights: Avant-Garde Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Oct 3, 2022

Highlights: Avant-Garde Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

After looking at some of the highlights of independent watchmaking and unorthodox sports watches at Sotheby’s upcoming sale in Hong Kong, our final instalment covering notable lots is all about avant-garde complications – most of which are far more affordable than the original retail prices suggest. Naturally the selection is by big-ticket mega watches such as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, but it includes several more creative and intriguing watches that aren’t widely known. Amongst them are a pair of Harry Winstons with exceptionally complex reinterpretations of the tourbillon, along with a Ulysse Nardin featuring a pulley-operated retrograde hand. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2171: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Best know for the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Girard-Perregaux (GP) counts far more complex iterations of the tourbillon amongst its offerings, including this tri-axial tourbillon. Though launched in 2014, the tri-axial tourbillon remains the most complicated tourbillon from GP. It consists of two nested tourbillon carriages with two different axes of rotation, which are then mounted onto a third rotating track that adds another dimension of rotation, resulting in the triple axis motion. Unsurprisingly, the tourbillon assembly is extremely complicated – it consists of almost 150 parts – and takes ...

My top five picks from the Ineichen Vintage Wristwatch auction Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Sep 22, 2022

My top five picks from the Ineichen Vintage Wristwatch auction

Running until October 1, the Ineichen Auctioneers Vintage watch auction consists of 72 lots of old-school goodness. It features everything from Patek Philippe to Audemars Piguet and beautiful dress watches to classic sport references. With so much up for grabs, I decided to pick five lots that spoke to me. Five watches, that if I … ContinuedThe post My top five picks from the Ineichen Vintage Wristwatch auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Andersen Genève Introduces the Heures du Monde “Asprey” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 17, 2022

Andersen Genève Introduces the Heures du Monde “Asprey”

Once a London institution that’s been in business for over two centuries, Asprey was a storied retailer of all manner of luxury goods in its heyday. Now owned by an American private outfit, Asprey has lost its lustre, but on vintage watches the name still carries magic – a 1950s Patek Philippe ref. 2499 bearing the Asprey logo on the dial sold for a record sum in 2018. Now Andersen Genève is trying to recapture some of that magic with a double-crown world time wristwatch made made specifically for the London retailer: the Heures du Monde “Asprey” with a blue-gold guilloche dial bearing the Asprey signature at six. The engine-turned pattern on the dial is inspired by the bottles of perfume once sold by Asprey Initial thoughts The Asprey world time has a look of Andersen, an old-school, classical style that brings to mind the 1980s and 1990s. For anyone who likes that retro style, it’s a good thing since there are not many modern-day watches with such aesthetics. Still, being a special edition, the Asprey world time has to set itself apart. It does so only modestly, first with the flared lugs that were previously only used for other Andersen models, and second with the hand-made guilloche dial with a unique lozenge pattern in Andersen’s signature “blue gold”. But arguably the most important element is the signature at six o’clock, one that echoes vintage, retailer-signed world time watches from the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. With ...

Preacher chastises congregation for not buying him a luxury watch Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Aug 24, 2022

Preacher chastises congregation for not buying him a luxury watch

The world of religion and watch are often irreverently linked. In watches, we constantly discuss the idea of the “holy trinity” (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin) and our “grail” watches (the one watch we yearn for the most). But recently a Missouri preacher brought the world of luxury watches into his house of god … ContinuedThe post Preacher chastises congregation for not buying him a luxury watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices? Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Aug 13, 2022

OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices?

For the last month every publication under the sun has seen a traffic gold-mine in the purported “collapse” in secondary pricing for “hype” watches from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe among others. Even we tackled the subject with our own reader-alluring doom and gloom headline. But, after fully digesting the situation, I am beginning … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet these super-hot brands all Aug 2, 2022

Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model

It is kind of a shame that a barometer for the success of a watch reference is when it is not readily available to purchase at retail. In an era of “unobtanium” Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, these super-hot brands all have standard-production watches selling at a premium due to their lack of availability. … ContinuedThe post Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made? Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet ? Jun 1, 2022

Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made?

What’s the biggest difference between Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet? For me, while both manufactures embody the best of traditional watchmaking, Audemars Piguet does a far better job of re-interpreting their tradition towards modern sensibilities and bringing their creations to a younger demographic. It’s the 50th anniversary of the AP Royal Oak this year, and … ContinuedThe post Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Apr 20, 2022

Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction

A core component of being an auction house is curation, often under the scope of a particular theme. But, even with a theme in mind, we often see an abundance of the usual suspects: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Swiss auction house Ineichen, however, loves to work outside the norm. Sure, they … ContinuedThe post Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Apr 19, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Sotheby’s forthcoming Important Watches I in Hong Kong is the first live auction of the year by a major auction house, or so accurately it’s the second day of the auction, with the sale of a mega, single-owner Patek Philippe collection happening in the evening the day before. With the strong demand for independent watchmaking, the 214-lots sale encompasses timepieces from a range of niche and not-so-niche indies. The lineup is naturally led by F.P. Journe, perhaps the marquee name in independent watchmaking today, but the most valuable lot is the very rare and very expensive Montre École, one of 11 watches born of the Naissance d’une Montre project backed by Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour. We round up six highlights from amongst the independent watchmakers at the sale, which starts at 2:00 pm (GMT +8) on April 26, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Montre École no. 09/11 Lot 2127: H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Having been business partners for a decade or so – Moser’s sister company supplies hairsprings to MB&F; – the two brands revealed their first collaboration in 2020 when both coincidentally celebrated their 15th anniversary. The more complicated of the two anniversary editions, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon was more Moser than MB&F; with its dial colour and movement, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. The Cylindrical Tourbillon combines the best of both brands. The aesthe...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Manhattan 37 delivers an integrated-bracelet watch at a bafflingly great price Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak have gone Apr 4, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Manhattan 37 delivers an integrated-bracelet watch at a bafflingly great price

In case you haven’t received the memo, stainless-steel, integrated-bracelet watches are white-hot. Scratch that: more like a Texas-sized asteroid flying straight into the centre of the sun-hot. Over the past several years, models like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak have gone from finely crafted-yet-anachronistic curiosities of ‘70s watch history, to the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Manhattan 37 delivers an integrated-bracelet watch at a bafflingly great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Czapek Debuts the Antarctique “Monochrome White” SJX Watches
Czapek Debuts Dec 15, 2021

Czapek Debuts the Antarctique “Monochrome White”

Revived six years ago via crowdfunding, Czapek’s original claim to fame was being the original business partner of Patek before he joined with Philippe. The brand has since gained traction thanks to its proprietary movements and more recently, a sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Now the sports watch is the basis of a collaboration between Czapek and Dutch watch magazine Monochrome. Featuring a muted, all-white livery, the Antarctique “Monochrome White” has a grained dial in pearl white. Initial thoughts While the Antarctique is a new entry into the integrated-bracelet sports watch segment, the design sticks to a familiar formula because there are only so many ways a sports watch with an integrated bracelet can be accomplished. The Monochrome edition sets itself apart with its white dial – a good look that’s unusual for a sports watch, a category where blue, grey, and green dials dominate. It’s a refreshing look that’s also practical, as light-coloured dial makes for good legibility. The case and bracelet of the Antarctique are also finished neatly with contrasting surfaces, but where the watch shines is the movement. Developed in-house with the help of specialists, it’s a micro-rotor automatic with a modern style but unusual details that evoke vintage pocket watch movements. Few competitors in this category and price range have movements that are similarly elaborate in construction and finish. The individual “finger” bridges for the gear tra...

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 of the best budget watch brands that get the nod from watch snobs Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S Dec 12, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 of the best budget watch brands that get the nod from watch snobs

EDITOR’S NOTE: What’s that you say? You don’t have a spare $6.5m kicking around to buy a Tiffany Blue 5711/1A-018 like the one that sold at auction yesterday? Join the club. Luckily, you don’t have to either as this list suggests a few budget-friendly alternatives.  Not everybody can afford the big guns: Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 5 of the best budget watch brands that get the nod from watch snobs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Parmigiani Revives a Louis-Elisée Piguet Grande Sonnerie SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Dec 9, 2021

In-Depth: Parmigiani Revives a Louis-Elisée Piguet Grande Sonnerie

A grand old name in highly complicated movements, Louis-Elisée Piguet was active in the second half of the 19th century and most famous for his grande sonnerie and perpetual calendar calibres. Amongst his clients for ebauches, or movement blanks, were famous names like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin – and his work was perhaps an inspiration for Philippe Dufour in the 20th century. A prime example of one such ebauche – featuring a grande sonnerie and minute repeater no less – was acquired by Michel Parmigiani in the late 1990s. A watchmaker and restorer extraordinaire, Mr Parmigiani and his daughter, Anne-Laure, recently led a project to finish and enhance the movement, resulting in La Rose Carrée, a spectacular pocket watch to mark his namesake brand’s 25th anniversary. Initial thoughts Like the recent Vacheron Constantin Tribute to Johannes Vermeer pocket watch, La Rose Carrée is a masterpiece catered to a narrow audience. There are few collectors of pocket watches nowadays, at least relative to wristwatches, especially pocket watches with seven figure price tags. But inaccessible as it may be,  La Rose Carrée is certainly worthy of admiration. The quality of craft and decoration is par excellence – an all-star team of artisans was recruited to complete it – and the ebauche was a masterpiece even unfinished. Stylistically, La Rose Carrée is also unusual in being more contemporary than the average grand complication pocket watch. The geometric f...

INTRODUCING: The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillons – in 38.5mm! Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin excels within Oct 6, 2021

INTRODUCING: The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillons – in 38.5mm!

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept collection is a safe space for AP to explore new complications and designs, a playground where the holy trinity brand really differentiates itself from its peers. I can confidently say that AP, when compared against Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, excels within the trio by creating more adventurous timepieces … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillons – in 38.5mm! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet introduces three highly complicated pieces into the 2021 collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Sep 14, 2021

Audemars Piguet introduces three highly complicated pieces into the 2021 collection

Holy trinity is a term that gets tossed around a fair bit. Its origins and usage are debated by some within the community, but I personally recognise the three holy trinity brands as the manufacturers who have had the longest, most prestigious and continuous production: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Lately, the marketplace … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet introduces three highly complicated pieces into the 2021 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Parmigiani Fleurier Aug 12, 2021

Interview: Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier

Parmigiani Fleurier is one of the pioneering independent watch brands, having been established in 1996 by Michel Parmigiani, watchmaker and restorer extraordinaire. While Parmigiani is a company of relative youth, its founder is a legendary watchmaker universally acknowledged as one of the most talented restorers of vintage watches and clocks. Mr Parmigiani has repaired timepieces in the world’s most venerable watch collections, including the Patek Philippe Museum. Over 25 years of existence, Parmigiani has garnered respect for the quality of its timepieces, though commercial success has consistently eluded it. Being owned by Sandoz Family Foundation, Parmigiani has long enjoyed the largesse possible only with a multi-billion franc endowment funded by a Swiss pharmaceutical fortune. But now perhaps change is in the air. Just earlier this year, Parmigiani tapped Guido Terreni for the top job. Prior to Parmigiani, Mr Terreni spent two decades at Bulgari, the second half of which as head of its watch division. And it was during his tenure that Bulgari’s timepiece business enjoyed a revival of the sort that Parmigiani’s owners are no doubt hoping for. I caught up with Guido earlier in the year to discuss his plans for Parmigiani, including the product line up as well as Mr Parmigiani’s continued role at the company. The interview has been edited for clarity and length. SJX: Let’s start with an easy question.You joined Parmigiani in January 2021, at a difficult time ...

Like fine wine, Cardi B’s watch collection is becoming more refined with age Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet May 26, 2021

Like fine wine, Cardi B’s watch collection is becoming more refined with age

Within the hip-hop community the prevalence of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille is abundant. In a scene where competitive flair and one-upmanship is a key component, many rappers’ initial step into watches is to buy “buss-down” watches – whether iced out by the factory or aftermarket. But as this market matures, what we … ContinuedThe post Like fine wine, Cardi B’s watch collection is becoming more refined with age appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: The Interesting and Perhaps Overlooked at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet minute repeater that’s not May 20, 2021

Highlights: The Interesting and Perhaps Overlooked at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

With the Geneva watch auctions recently concluded, the action moves to Hong Kong where Phillips is presenting a large, 312-lot catalogue over two days and three sessions. Headlined by a pair of Patek Philippe ref. 2499s with certificates – first and third series specifically – the Phillips sale encompasses several lots that will delight collectors looking for intriguing timepieces that usually go under the radar – most of which are also value buys. They include a seemingly ordinary Panerai with a brilliant Minerva movement, a round Audemars Piguet minute repeater that’s not a Code 11.59, and the electric Cartier Tank Folle that is as left-field as they come. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII takes place on June 5 (lots 801-852) and June 6 over two sessions (lots 853-1112). The full catalogue, along with registration for the auction, is available online. Lot 874 – Panerai Radiomir PAM 322 “Minerva” With little to distinguish it, the PAM 322 looks like any other Radiomir at a glance. Released in 2008 in a limited edition of 150 pieces, the PAM 322 is quintessential Panerai in style: a 47 mm titanium case, tobacco dial, and gilt hands. But turn it over and it is instantly recognisable as special. The PAM 322 is powered by the cal. OPXXVII, which is actually based on the Minerva cal. 16-15/16-17, one of the calibres destined for Montblanc’s top-of-the-line watches, then known as the Villeret 1858 collection (and now found in various 1858 and Heritage mode...

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Perpetual Calendar May 7, 2021

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction

Kicking off the spring-season watch auctions, the upcoming Phillips sale in Geneva takes place over the weekend of May 8 and 9. Led by the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 cloisonné world time “Eurasia”, the 236-lot catalogue has clearly been curated to cater to the taste of contemporary collectors. We round up a few interesting lots from the sale, including a pair of obscure watches by famed independent watchmakers – the Harry Winston Opus 1 by F.P. Journe, and the Roger W. Smith Series 1 “Onely” for Theo Fennell. Perhaps as unusual, but this time from an establishment name, is the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Perpetual Calendar. And then there’s the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 570 with a two-tone dial and Breguet numerals, which is simply gorgeous. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIII takes place on May 8 (for lots 1-130) and May 9 (lots 131-236). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available online. Lots 57 and 89 – Cartier Tortue monopoussoir chronographs Enjoying a resurgent interest in its elegant but original designs, bringing to mind its 1990s heyday at auction, Cartier is now frequently encountered in watch auctions. And the two present examples of the Tortue are each interesting, but even more notable side by side in the same same. They are the same watch – the original from 1930 and the remake some seven decades on. Tortue, French for” turtle”, is a century-old design attributed to Cartier, having made its debut in 1912. It’s ...

Watches on integrated bracelets have a secret downside. Does Vacheron Constantin have the cure? Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin have May 2, 2021

Watches on integrated bracelets have a secret downside. Does Vacheron Constantin have the cure?

Grail watches come in all shapes and sizes, from that vintage Seiko chronograph to a German masterpiece from the town of Glashutte. But when it comes to current hype, one category trumps them all: the integrated bracelet sports watch. For me, the elusive Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 is still one of my ultimate dream watches, … ContinuedThe post Watches on integrated bracelets have a secret downside. Does Vacheron Constantin have the cure? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.