Hodinkee
Essays: Prices, Volumes, And Passion: The Business Of Watches In 2025 And What To Expect In 2026
How the watch industry navigated its most structurally challenging year in a decade and what to look out for in 2026.
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Finnish Finishing: Kortela Valta Unveils the Toka
The Toka from Finnish duo Roope Kortela and René Valta reflects the ongoing appeal of beautifully finished, time-only watches, combining a thoughtfully reworked historical calibre with the brand’s first champlevé enamel dial. With an emphasis on high-grade finishing and increasingly in-house components - including a proprietary free-sprung balance - the Toka is a strong sophomore effort from the startup independent. Rene Valta (foreground) and Roope Kortela Initial thoughts It’s been more than 25 years since Philippe Dufour unveiled the Simplicity, a watch that challenged prevailing wisdom about what fine watchmaking was all about. Launched at a time when brands and collectors were focused on complications, the Simplicity arguably created the niche for highly finished time-only watches and intensified collector focus on independent watchmaking in general. Though the field has become crowded over the past quarter-century, collector demand has proven durable. The Toka is a watch built in this tradition. The Omega calibre inside the Toka has been heavily reworked by Kortela Valta. The watchmakers kept most of the original architecture intact, while applying high-end finishing top to bottom. Furthermore, since the start of 2025, the watchmaking duo has expanded the list of components they’re able to make in-house, including the new free-sprung balance that differentiates the Toka from the Eka and Oma models that preceded it. The Toka features a fairly traditional...
Fratello
Hands-On With The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date In Pink Gold
You wouldn’t necessarily consider time-and-date watches when thinking of complicated haute horlogerie. Even with a power reserve indicator added in, it still doesn’t sound very impressive or complex, does it? Well, the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date proves that sometimes the simplest things require the hardest solutions. I got the chance to spend some […] Visit Hands-On With The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date In Pink Gold to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
What We Want to See From the Watch Industry in 2026
As our collective holiday hangovers begin to finally wear off, we look ahead to a 2026 that, like any year, could bring any number of surprises. We thought it would be fun to check in with our Slack community, Worn & Wound+, to see what members were hoping to see from brands, the industry, and the community in 2026. Their responses ranged from the predictable (yes, we all want micro-adjust clasps on our bracelets) to the pointed (there is some very specific heat thrown at some very specific targets). As always, the responses reflect the broad interests of our community. The responses below have been lightly edited for clarity, and attributed to the username handles used on Slack. Let us know in the comments what you would like to see in 2026 across the watch industry. Whether it’s a specific watch, a piece of content from Worn & Wound, or something more business or industry related, we’d love to hear about it. KILO I’d like to see innovation in movement design. Specifically for off-the-shelf movements that wind their way into micros, indies, and even in legacy ‘big-watch’ manufacture. Example: the Miyota 9075 was a game-changer for the democratization of GMT watch design and manufacture. It’s time for more offerings for chronos (especially now that the ST19 is so hard for most manufacturers to source), small seconds, etc. IAN EHRENWALD I don’t know about market viability, but I’d absolutely love to see Tudor give the North Flag another chance. I’d l...
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Inside The Whimsical Workshop Of François Junod, Master Of Automata
A treasure trove of living machines from the king of mechanical artistry.
Video
Marinemaster: A Watch You Need To Know About & Why It's The Best Fortis Yet (M-40 & M-44 Review)
Time+Tide
Cartier was the unexpected saviour of the watch industry in 2025 – here’s our favourite 5 releases from the year
Cartier continues to be the big winner of the watch industry - in no small part thanks to its strong 2025 releases.The post Cartier was the unexpected saviour of the watch industry in 2025 – here’s our favourite 5 releases from the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Best Tool Watches We’ve Ever Tested
Looking for a tool watch you can trust and actually rely on? We break down the watches that survived real testing and explain what they do well and where they fall short.
Fratello
British Watchmaker James Lamb Introduces The Linea Edition - A Joint Effort Between Artisans
Be honest: did you know of James Lamb before you saw this article on Fratello? Well, I certainly didn’t before I started researching the brand for this article. James Lamb is a British artisan watchmaker, and handmade silver watch cases and enameled silver dials are his shtick. The watches in his Origin Series are all […] Visit British Watchmaker James Lamb Introduces The Linea Edition - A Joint Effort Between Artisans to read the full article.
Time+Tide
On your marks, get set, go: the history of the chronograph
It is often considered the most prolific complication in the watch world, and it has a long, complex, story to tell.The post On your marks, get set, go: the history of the chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Seiko Brings Back The Tonneau Case To The Presage Line With The New SPB537
You would be forgiven for thinking this new Seiko SPB537 looks somewhat familiar. After all, Seiko made numerous Presage models in this tonneau form factor in the past. However, all of them were discontinued, and no new ones were introduced to the collection. Well, until today, that is! This is the new Seiko Presage SPB537 […] Visit Seiko Brings Back The Tonneau Case To The Presage Line With The New SPB537 to read the full article.
Video
9 Reasons This Is The BEST Beater Watch Under $50 You Should Own: G-Shock DW5600E-1V vs Casio DW290
SJX Watches
Precious Porcelain: The Seiko Credor Goldfeather GCBY991
Foreshadowing Credor’s Watches & Wonders debut in April (located alongside sister brand Grand Seiko), the Goldfeather GCBY991 Imari Nabeshima Porcelain is the brand’s first launch of the year. It pairs an ultra-thin hand-wound movement with a dial made using a traditional – and reputedly highly secretive – Japanese porcelain technique. But now the secret is out, cased in steel and limited to 60 pieces worldwide. Initial thoughts Originally envisioned in the 1970s as a vehicle for precious metal quartz watches, Credor later expanded into a catch-all brand for Seiko’s high-end offerings that didn’t fit the Grand Seiko aesthetic. Over the last few years, however, Credor has refocused and shrunk its catalogue from over 200 references in 2021 to fewer than 70 today, shedding legions of ladies’ quartz models while redoubling emphasis on artisanal crafts. The porcelain-dialed GCBY999 embodies this tighter focus and exemplifies the brand’s new motto: “the creativity of artisans”. Despite the Goldfeather branding – and Credor’s original purpose – the GCBY999 is cased in stainless steel. This is a welcome concession given the current price of gold, which is near all-time highs, especially since Seiko generally charges a higher premium for precious metal models than is typical for Swiss brands. As a result, the GCBY999 is good value within the Goldfeather lineup, despite its artisanal dial. The watch retails for JPY1.98 million in Japan, equivalent to about ...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Tonneau-Shaped Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB537 with Enamel Dial
It has been a while since we last saw a tonneau-shaped Seiko Presage… The last to surface on MONOCHROME was the Presage Enamel SPB049 from 2017, a quietly unusual model that stood apart from the round, conservative silhouettes that dominate Seiko’s classical offerings, or the 2019 Zen Garden SARY111 (SRPD05/07) series. But here we are […]
Worn & Wound
Inside the Watch Box: Collecting Goals for 2026
If I’m looking back at 2025, it feels like the year I really embraced independent brands across price points. If you’ve listened to the podcast, talked to me at a watch event, or read between the lines of many of the articles I’ve written over the last few years, you’ll know that I’ve become increasingly bored with “big” brands and the new watches they push out to market on predictable release cycles, year in and year out. 2025 was the year that that boredom and frustration really made an impact on the purchases I decided to make. I won’t lie: I went a little overboard on new watches last year. Not having children, owning a car that’s fully paid off, and living in a world where retail therapy is often the most reliable form of comfort will do that to you. In the last year, I picked up new watches from Ming, Otsuka Lotec, Arcanaut, Louis Erard, Selten, Typsim, Christopher Ward, Nomos, and Arken. I’m happy to say that every single one of them is a little weird (Or special? Maybe that’s a better word.) and I’m very pleased to say that in just about every case I have some personal connective tie to the brand or the people behind it. That’s a thing that has become almost essential to me as I consider a new watch: I want to know the people who made it, understand their philosophy, and, if I can, develop an ongoing relationship with them. That’s a goal that’s easier to meet now than ever given the ease with which we all connect on social media, at ...
Monochrome
Hands-on – Experiencing the Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar
Forgive the lyrical tone, but to encounter a Moritz Grossmann watch is to feel time transformed into form and substance. These are timepieces that are great to look at and study in detail with a loupe, but also wonderful to experience through touch, balance, and inner rhythm. Since Christine Hutter revived the storied name in […]
Worn & Wound
Oris Celebrates the Year of the Horse with a New Limited Edition
One of the most reliable events on the watch release calendar every year is a glut of new watches in January celebrating the lunar new year, which this year begins on February 17. This is a very important holiday in many Asian countries, and brands with an international focus are not shy about dropping limited editions throughout the month to appeal (primarily) to customers in those territories. Of course, very often the watches themselves are quite cool outside the context of the lunar new year celebration itself, and it’s always kind of a fun spectator sport to see what brands come up with. Typically, brands will riff on the animal associated with a given year, and this year it’s the fire horse. First out of the gate: Oris, with the new Year of the Horse Limited Edition. The Year of the Horse Limited Edition can be defined by two prominent features: deep red tones, and the use of the Calibre 113 movement. The movement is somewhat unusual and not used frequently in the Oris catalog, so we’ll start there. This is a manually wound caliber with an impressive ten day power reserve, and also includes a “business calendar” that provides the day, date, and also displays the week of the year via a scale at the dial’s perimeter. The week indicator is an unusual, old-fashioned feature that holds a lot of charm, and provides an easy visual reference for how deep we are into a given year. The watch has a dark red dial with lighter red fumé subdials at 3 and 9 that in...
Video
Who Makes the Best Tracksuit? Boss, Nike, Fila, Boxraw, Adidas & How To Match Them With Your Watches
Time+Tide
Georges Kern answers the tough questions: Breitling’s bold vision at Dubai Watch Week
We caught up with Georges Kern at Dubai Watch Week, and true to form, the Breitling CEO didn't shy away from the challenging questions.The post Georges Kern answers the tough questions: Breitling’s bold vision at Dubai Watch Week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin – The Vintage-Inspired Release That No One Expected
If you're a vintage lover who thought the days of modern 36mm ultra-thin perpetual calendars were behind us, Vacheron has your back. But how does it stack up?
Monochrome
Hands-on – A Closer Look at the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255
Unveiled on 26 June 2025, a nod to the date Abraham-Louis Breguet secured a patent for his gravity-defying tourbillon (26 June 1801), the Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 takes his groundbreaking regulator on a fascinating ride through time and space. Released for the brand’s 250th anniversary celebrations, the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 pays homage to its illustrious […]
Fratello
Hands-On: The Temporal Works Series A
What happens when sartorialists Mark Cho and Elliot Hammer (respectively, the founder and the creative director of The Armoury) come up with a watch brand of their own? Let’s find out in this hands-on review of the Temporal Works Series A line. The Armoury’s Temporal Works In case you are unfamiliar with The Armoury, it’s […] Visit Hands-On: The Temporal Works Series A to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Year of the Fire Horse
Fitting for a brand that harnesses the horsepower of the racetrack in its watches, TAG Heuer releases a Carrera Chronograph to celebrate the Year of the Fire Horse. Representing the seventh animal sign in the Chinese zodiac, the horse will rule the roost of the 12 zodiac animals starting on 17 February 2026. The model […]
Video
The Best Seiko Divers Under $500 for 2021: Samurai vs Monster (SRPB51 & SRPD25) Watch
Time+Tide
The three watches Jamie wore most in 2025 are…
Jamie's top three most-worn watches of 2025 were something old, something new, and something borrowed (but not something blue...)The post The three watches Jamie wore most in 2025 are… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The MIH Gaïa Series III, and Why this Watch Matters
After the now-cult-classic MIH Watch of 2005, an overtly minimalist Annual Calendar Chronograph developed by Ludwig Oechslin and Paul Gerber, and the Gaïa Watch series launched in 2019, the 2024 edition continues the museum’s approach to watchmaking. Indeed, before launching his own brand, Ochs und Junior, Oechslin was the curator of the Musée International d’Horologerie […]
Worn & Wound
The Bernhardt Watch Company Introduces the Cipher Diver
I’m not going to lie to you, I love a bit of intrigue. When I was a child, I would write notes to my mother in invisible ink made of lemon juice. When someone tells me to keep a secret (which is always a surprise, given my big mouth), I can hardly contain my excitement. And, even now, I fancy myself a real James Bond type when I hide the Amazon boxes from my husband before he comes home from work. Luckily for me, Bernhardt Watch Company just announced their Cipher Diver, which sits right at the cross-section of two of my hobbies: watches and subterfuge. Inspired by Thomas Jefferson (and, impressively, made in partnership with Monticello), the watch nods more to the third president’s inventive streak than his political career – including the rotating wheel cipher, a mechanical concept designed to encode messages through a specific alignment of letters across a series of discs. The result is a diver that cleverly allows you to keep a secret message right on your wrist. Beneath the bezel, Bernhardt has included the alphabet printed on UV-reactive ink. By aligning the bezel to a designated hour key and referencing minute markers on the dial, one is able to use the clock’s timekeeping functionality to decode the message. If that’s not some National Treasure type of ingenuity, I don’t know what is. Each diver comes with a UV decoding torch and an initial cipher card, with new encrypted messages released weekly through July 4, 2026 (the 250th anniversary of the Unit...
Time+Tide
Mido contrasts stealth and crazy colours with the Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 in black PVD
The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer is back in black, with a PVD-coated case and three interchangeable straps.The post Mido contrasts stealth and crazy colours with the Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 in black PVD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Video: Hands-On With The Omega Speedmaster Grey Side Of The Moon
In this video, we go hands-on with Omega’s recently released Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon. We covered it in-depth here, but also decided to shoot a video with this new ceramic Speedmaster. If the video above doesn’t play, please visit our YouTube channel to watch it there. Inspired by Apollo 8 In this video, I went […] Visit Video: Hands-On With The Omega Speedmaster Grey Side Of The Moon to read the full article.
Video