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Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Neo Constant Escapement for Only Watch SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Jul 6, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Neo Constant Escapement for Only Watch

A regular participant at Only Watch, Girard-Perregaux’s latest contribution to the charity auction, the Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch 2023, revisits its innovation constant-force escapement. Girard-Perregaux (GP) first unveiled the Constant Escapement in 2013 as a wristwatch with a unique, dual-wheel escapement with an integral constant-force silicon buckling spring. Ten years on, the Neo Constant Escapement is a revamp of the original concept with incremental upgrades to the mechanism. Initial thoughts The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is not merely a rehash of the original. It is a technical evolution, which is at the very minimum an academically interesting take on an already exotic escapement. The Only Watch edition is dressed in predominantly monochromatic livery with a pink gold case and movement bridges – even the mainspring barrels are pink gold. The generous use of pink gold might be polarising, which arguably makes it perfectly suited as a one-off piece that will inevitably find an eager buyer at the auction. In the grander scheme of things however, the NCE Only Watch edition marks the beginning of GP reviving the Constant Escapement. Even by today’s standards of advanced tech in watchmaking, the Constant Escapement is an integrated design comprised of a double-wheel escapement with a remontoir spring, making it an escapement unlike any other. It is admirable that the escapement has been updated for better reliability, while preserving its original ide...

The Ace x Elka Watch Company Diversity series Time+Tide
Brew Jun 25, 2023

The Ace x Elka Watch Company Diversity series

Ace Jewelers and Elka Watch Company have teamed up to celebrate Amsterdam’s diversity. Both companies have links to the historical Dutch brand Elka. It’s available with dials in Western Arabic, Eastern Arabic, Chinese or Hebrew. Collaborations between watch brands and dealers have historically been as simple as printing a name on a dial, and sometimes … ContinuedThe post The Ace x Elka Watch Company Diversity series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969 Worn & Wound
Hamilton watches rolled off May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969

It’s not hyperbole to say that this is an historic day in American watchmaking history. J.N. Shapiro, the California based indie known primarily for their beautiful engine turned dials, has announced a new American made watch. According to the brand, this is the first mechanical watch that can be accurately described as “Made in America” since 1969, when the last American made Hamilton watches rolled off the production line. It’s a big deal, and a big step for a watchmaker that has been very much on the rise in recent years, taking on more complex production challenges with every new release. From dials, to cases, to movements, Shapiro can now claim a watch where virtually every component is made in a single workshop.  The watch, which Shapiro has dubbed the Resurgence, is the culmination of 12 years of learned experience among Shapiro and his team. At a glance, it has all of the aesthetic hallmarks of any Shapiro watch. A highly detailed multi level dial, for one, accented with intricate engine turning that has become Shapiro’s hallmark. What sets this watch apart, though, is the movement, which is not only beautiful to look at, with healthy doses of anglage, bridges with a distinct Damaskeening pattern (the American equivalent of Côtes de Genève), and rounded spokes on the caliber’s wheels, but has been designed and fabricated entirely in the United States. Shapiro produced his first movement prototypes in 2019, and that has led to the caliber at work in t...

Ollech & Wajs Introduces the 8001, an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Based on a 1970s Chronograph Worn & Wound
May 17, 2023

Ollech & Wajs Introduces the 8001, an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Based on a 1970s Chronograph

Since Ollech & Wajs reconstituted itself in 2019, they’ve released a string of well regarded sports watches that pay tribute to some of the brand’s key designs from the 1960s and 1970s. This period, obviously, is fertile ground for watch design inspiration, with plenty of unusual, colorful attempts to build something different, along with your normal array of no fuss, black dialed divers. Ollech & Wajs has really focused on the hits, and on a somewhat insane commitment to build quality (my favorite example: the C-1000, one of the most under the radar 1,000 meter divers you’ll find anywhere). For this latest release, however, they’re looking toward an old design that is heavy with 70s funk, and then…un-funking it? At a glance, the new OW 8001 is the product of at least a few strange decisions.  Let’s step back a moment and take a look at the watch that inspired the OW 8001, the OW 8000. This year marks the 50th anniversary of Ollech & Wajs’ early foray into the integrated bracelet market in the form of a sporty, “TV dial” chronograph with a smoked brown dial. The case of the 8000 appears to be overbuilt and chunky in a way that Ollech & Wajs has always favored, but there’s a certain elegance to the case shape and the way the case connects to the bracelet (notice the facet angled downward at the top and bottom of the case). Ollech & Wajs were far from the only brand to make a TV dial style watch, and they certainly weren’t the only brand to experiment ...

Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer SJX Watches
May 5, 2023

Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer

Online watch auctioneers Loupe This have just listed a Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer in an online-only sale that runs from now till May 11. Barely a handful have emerged – one was sold at Phillips Perpetual in London in 2021 – but this example is the first to go under the hammer. The scarcity is of the Double Impulse Chronometer on the secondary market is simply because there are few of them in circulation. Around 50 have been made to date and with about a dozen being produced each year, the wait for an order placed now stands at about eight years. The exceptional demand for the watch is entirely justified, since the Double Impulse Chronometer is arguably the most significant English wristwatch in production today. Consigned by the original owner, this specimen is quintessential Frodsham. Numbered “010800” and delivered in September 2019, this is one of the first examples made, the 13th in fact, according to Richard Stenning, co-owner of Charles Frodsham. More notably, it is an unusual combination of a stainless steel case and white ceramic dial with double cyphers. According to Mr Stenning, this was the first of only two watches with this configuration made to date. The cyphers are an option but arguably crucial since they reference the firm’s history and add to the vintage-inspired styling of the dial. Historically found on Frodsham pocket watches – often engraved on the movement but sometimes on the dial – such cyphers indicated Royal Warrant...

Celebrity watch challenge - do you pick the black or blue TAG Heuer Glass Box Carrera Chronograph? Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Glass Box Carrera Chronograph? Apr 29, 2023

Celebrity watch challenge - do you pick the black or blue TAG Heuer Glass Box Carrera Chronograph?

Blue or black is an age-old formalwear quandary that can divide any demographic, but the choice between colour or monochrome also extends to some of the most popular sports watch dials. With the release of the new TAG Heuer Glass Box Carrera Chronograph, the debate continues between the reverse panda configuration and the blue dial, … ContinuedThe post Celebrity watch challenge – do you pick the black or blue TAG Heuer Glass Box Carrera Chronograph? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Want to dabble in high-end watch auctions but lack the cash? FutureGrail may have the solution Time+Tide
Rolex Yacht-Master Apr 27, 2023

Want to dabble in high-end watch auctions but lack the cash? FutureGrail may have the solution

Let’s face it. For most of us, who don’t work in finance or have somehow failed to win the lottery (so far) or be fathered by a particularly indulgent Sheikh, reading about watch auctions is a form of fantasy window shopping. “Hmm,” you nod to yourself approvingly when reading about the platinum Rolex Yacht-Master that … ContinuedThe post Want to dabble in high-end watch auctions but lack the cash? FutureGrail may have the solution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens Apr 11, 2023

The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados

Czapek has expanded their best-selling integrated Antarctique line with the stunning open-worked Révélation The new in-house SXH7 auto-winding movement is an evolution of their SXH5, completely reworked for maximum visual impact on both sides The Révélation is also the first non-chrono Antarctique with a skeletonised dial Open-worked dials can be one of the most thrilling … ContinuedThe post The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Nathan Schultz Worn & Wound
Oris TT1 Day Date reference Mar 10, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Nathan Schultz

Editor’s note: This week’s Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition, we welcome reader Nathan Schultz and his trio of unusual, unexpected, but entirely awesome watches.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. As watch enthusiasts, we have a penchant for forming opinions. We talk about what belongs on a dial, and where it should go. We discuss case dimensions, say “sweet spot” regularly, and debate if the Black Bay Pro is too thick. With time, forming an opinion about every aspect of a watch is inevitable. This opinion making frenzy is one of my favorite things about the hobby. When I have down time, I browse watches online. Do I buy them? Usually not, but it’s fun to dream. Through all this browsing and fantasizing, I’ve learned something unexpected about myself: I’m a lugs guy. My core lug opinion: the weirder the better. Oris TT1 Day Date reference 7518 – ~$1,000 It started with the Oris TT1 Day Date reference 7518. I did a double take the first time I saw this one. The lugs looked like an afterthought on a child’s art class pottery project. As if Oris spent so much time perfecting the big bubbly case, they forgot about the lugs until the last day, and just grabbed four spares from the lug bin.  The individual lug oddities on the 7518 seem nonsensical. Yet, combined, they just work. The case on this reference is beautifully rounded. It’s big and has a substantial pr...

Everything you need to know about watch finishing Time+Tide
Mar 9, 2023

Everything you need to know about watch finishing

Looking for a singular resource on all the watch finishing techniques you should ever be familiar with? Look no further, as we try to list every polishing, brushing and dial-creating process we knew of and could come across. Ctrl+F away, dear reader. Anglage Anglage, bevelling or chamfering, describes a movement finishing technique in which the … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about watch finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Jewels: What Do They Do and Why Do They Matter? Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 24, 2023

Watch Jewels: What Do They Do and Why Do They Matter?

Those who are very new to appreciating watches may be surprised, and a bit confused, upon reading about a watch that boasts “21 jewels” and afterward looking it over and finding no diamonds or emeralds or any other precious stones on its dial or case. Many watches do, in fact, offer such adornments, but those are not what’s being referred to on a watch’s spec sheet in the “jewels” column; to clarify, “jewels” in horological parlance are not shorthand for “jewelry.” A watch’s jewels are, in fact, not even really intended to be seen and admired. Like the screws and gears and tiny wheels inside a watch’s movement, they are there to do a job, to play a vital and functional role in the smooth operation of a watch’s timekeeping.  So what are jewels in a watch movement, anyway, and what are they for? And do watchmakers really use valuable, precious gems as workhorse components inside these micromechanical engines? On the latter question, well, yes and no. As to the former question, read on.  The movement in a mechanical watch is a machine with lots of moving metal parts that tend to rub and grind against one another, creating friction that can wear down these components, adversely affecting the performance of the watch and ultimately shortening its functional life. The challenge in the early days of watchmaking was finding a substance harder than these metal parts to place at the vital pivot points to reduce metal-on-metal wear and tear. The answer pr...

G-SHOCK is Making Us All Feel Old with a New Watch Celebrating 30 Years of the Wu-Tang Clan Worn & Wound
Feb 23, 2023

G-SHOCK is Making Us All Feel Old with a New Watch Celebrating 30 Years of the Wu-Tang Clan

If you’re a watch fan of a certain age, chances are you’re going through something (or about to go through something) that will do nothing less than force you to face your own mortality. It’s been happening for years, in fact, and it has nothing (directly) to do with watches. As my fellow elder millennials know, all the stuff you liked in the 1990s is turning 30. Yes, the unavoidable march of time comes for everyone, but there’s something, I don’t know, kind of insane and troubling about the pieces of popular culture that helped shape your worldview and taste as an adolescent entering their fourth decade of existence. Sometimes, lucky for us, those anniversaries are marked with watches, and the folks at G-SHOCK are celebrating the 30th year of a truly important hip hop group with their latest release. That’s right, it’s a Wu-Tang Clan limited edition. Feeling old yet?  It’s hard to overstate the influence and importance of Wu-Tang, not just on hip-hop but on pop music in general. In addition to releasing albums as a collective that are considered by many to be among the best rap albums ever made, individual members have gone on to have solo successes of their own, discover and produce a new generation of talent, and cross over into other musical disciplines (RZA scored both Kill Bill films, for example). The larger musical sphere of Wu-Tang inspired and bred talent is so significant that artists falling into this category are known as the Wu-Tang Killa Bee...

Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime Time+Tide
Feb 12, 2023

Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime

It’s probably a sign of just how much some people care about their watches, but timepieces have long been attributed human characteristics. I’ve often heard the movement of a watch described as its “beating heart”, while it’s also routine to talk about a watch’s “face” or “hands”.  Perhaps this is a natural development given that … ContinuedThe post Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

AP Social Club Day 2: 40 functions, 23 complications, ONE WATCH?! Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Universelle boasts 40 functions Feb 3, 2023

AP Social Club Day 2: 40 functions, 23 complications, ONE WATCH?!

New RD#4: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle boasts 40 functions and 23 complications in one watch. Royal Oak Concept debuts in 43mm size with split-seconds chronograph GMT. New Royal Oak Perpetual Colander Ultra-Thin has a smoky-blue dial exclusive to the model As if yesterday’s announcements had not already satiated our appetite for new Audemars Piguet pieces, … ContinuedThe post AP Social Club Day 2: 40 functions, 23 complications, ONE WATCH?! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection Time+Tide
Bulgari dazzles Jan 11, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection

The Divas’ Dream and Allegra have been given new colour schemes. The Serpenti Seduttori is now available with a black lacquer dial. The Serpenti Tubogas Infinity now has flowing diamonds between the case and the bracelet LVMH Watch Week is bringing in the new year in fine form. For this particular series, instead of breaking … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models Time+Tide
Zenith expands their starry Defy Jan 11, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models

The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton replaces the recently discontinued Defy Classic Skeleton. The star-motif of the skeleton dial is now four-pointed instead of five-pointed.  New Skyline Skeleton has no date and moves 1/10th of a second counter from 9′ to more symmetrical 6′ position. New Skyline 36mm does not have a 1/10th of a second counter, … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Laco Edition 97 is a classic Type B pilot’s watch in bronze Time+Tide
Laco Edition 97 Dec 22, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Laco Edition 97 is a classic Type B pilot’s watch in bronze

Laco is the type of brand that attracts a niche group of watch enthusiasts: those who are into old school pilot watches and that appreciate having the real deal. In 2022, anyone can buy a good-looking, well-made pilot watch from any of 100 brands at different prices. That’s because these watches are exceptionally legible and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Laco Edition 97 is a classic Type B pilot’s watch in bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OK, we’ve found the perfect watch for an eccentric but jaded billionaire… Time+Tide
Nov 26, 2022

OK, we’ve found the perfect watch for an eccentric but jaded billionaire…

You know that people-watching game that you sometimes play.  The one where you speculate – ideally with a partner – on the complex inner lives of total strangers.  That middle-aged man at the bar, for example, knocking back his fourth scotch. Is he celebrating a day of deal-sealing triumph? Or trying to blot out the … ContinuedThe post OK, we’ve found the perfect watch for an eccentric but jaded billionaire… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Tri-compax Chronograph Revolution
Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Tri-compax Nov 16, 2022

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Tri-compax Chronograph

Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This black dial, three-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Bi-compax Chronograph Revolution
Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Bi-compax Nov 16, 2022

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Bi-compax Chronograph

Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This silver dial, two-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]

Luke Combs: Down-home country star, high-end watch aficionado Time+Tide
Sep 24, 2022

Luke Combs: Down-home country star, high-end watch aficionado

Here’s a great example of finding a story in the last place you’d expect. Turns out country superstar Luke Combs isn’t just a down-to-earth singer/songwriter, he also happens to be an unlikely watch nut. Flying in the face of his unpretentious everyman image, the country hitmaker has amassed a rather stellar collection in a relatively … ContinuedThe post Luke Combs: Down-home country star, high-end watch aficionado appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Norqain Introduces Lightweight Carbon Sports Watch SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Sep 23, 2022

Norqain Introduces Lightweight Carbon Sports Watch

Just three months after it announced Jean-Claude Biver joining its board,  Norqain has unveiled its first product conceived in conjunction with the industry veteran best known for having created Hublot as we know it today, the Wild One. The Wild One is a lightweight sports watch with a case of a carbon composite known as Norteq and a laser-cut, patterned dial. It’s the culmination of a two-year project involving Norqain, synthetic rubber specialist Biwi, and more recently Mr Biver, who “[challenged] the team to innovate; to create a lightweight and shock-resistant timepiece that reflects the brand’s active DNA”. Initial thoughts Often found in expensive and exotic sports watches – although not an expensive material in itself – carbon composite cases are uncommon at the US$5,000 price point, thought they are becoming more common. Alongside models from Oris and Bell & Ross, this is amongst the few offerings in this price segment. And the Wild One has all the features of a bona fide sports watch, including water resistance of 200 m and of course a robust Kenissi movement. That said, the Wild One will also have the downside that is intrinsic to carbon composite – it is essentially a type of plastic and looks the part, resulting in a look that you either like or not. Notably, the liberal use of modern synthetic materials like carbon composite and rubber certainly evokes other products Mr Biver had a hand in creating. And so do the aesthetics; the patterned di...

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #19 “Handsets” Time+Tide
Aug 27, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #19 “Handsets”

Fully back in the saddle, after a brief vacation hiatus we are back with another crossword for you to tackle. While perhaps not among the top of the list in regard to glamorous watch components, hands are crucial for conveying various indications on a dial (even a movement in certain cases). So, let’s test your … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #19 “Handsets” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.