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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans exudes casual elegance Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Mar 27, 2023

The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans exudes casual elegance

Speake-Marin’s history is one drenched in luxury with bespoke offerings and a blend of tradition and futurism that very few brands can pull off as well. Last year, they changed gears by introducing the Ripples - their first integrated bracelet watch in steel. This is one of the most competitive markets for luxury wristwatches, and … ContinuedThe post The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans exudes casual elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Celebrating 50 years: Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm and Riviera Azur 300M Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Mar 27, 2023

Celebrating 50 years: Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm and Riviera Azur 300M

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Baume & Mercier’s integrated model, the Riviera. For the first time, there’s a new unisex 39mm version of the Riviera. Also new is a dive version called the Riviera Azur 300m, a reinvention of their 1981 diver. It seems like everyone in the watch industry has jumped on … ContinuedThe post Celebrating 50 years: Baume & Mercier Riviera 39mm and Riviera Azur 300M appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 27, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor

Fresh off the success of last year’s unexpected Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”, Cartier continues with the theme but now with an newly developed open-worked movement. Making its debut in three variants, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor underscore Cartier’s commitment to the Santos-Dumont, the model that’s truest to the 1904 watch designed for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. Equipped with the cal. 9629 MC that has a plane-shaped rotor, the three references include a pair of regular production models in steel and rose gold, along with a 150-piece limited edition in a striking combination of yellow gold and blue lacquer. Initial Thoughts Cartier been using lacquer to decorate its jewellery, watches, and accessories almost since its founding in 1847. While a first for the brand in the modern-day – and also unique amongst watchmakers – last year’s lacquered Santos-Dumont was modelled on a similar 1920s watch, so it makes sense for the Parisian jeweller to continue with the theme. In this context, the highlight of the Santos-Dumont Skeleton collection is undoubtedly the yellow gold model with navy-blue lacquer inlays. Not only is the lacquer applied to the case and bezel as was the case with last year’s model, but it is applied to the movement bridges. The combination of lacquer, skeleton movement, and a whimsical plane-shaped rotor instantly sets it apart from other Cartier watches, yet it is still easily recognisable as a Cartier creation. This watch ce...

The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection is all about mosaics, lacquer, and gold Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection Mar 27, 2023

The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection is all about mosaics, lacquer, and gold

Four new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier models The two mosaic models utilise tri-gold (white, rose and yellow) finished dials Two models bring the green and burgundy lacquer dials from the 2021 Must collection into the manually wound Tank LC format The Cartier Tank is one of the most iconic watch designs of all time, and … ContinuedThe post The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection is all about mosaics, lacquer, and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Taking Inspiration from Nature With The New Boldr Safari Vogelkop Superb Worn & Wound
Boldr Safari Vogelkop Superb Complex Mar 25, 2023

Taking Inspiration from Nature With The New Boldr Safari Vogelkop Superb

Complex DNA. Constantly evolving species. A couple billion year head start. These things ensure that Mother Nature continues to be the dominant designer on this planet, and has been for quite a long time. So when a watch brand decides it’s time to create something new, what better place to draw inspiration from? Complex DNA. Constantly evolving species. A couple billion year head start. These things ensure that Mother Nature continues to be the dominant designer on this planet, and has been for quite a long time. So when a watch brand decides it’s time to create something new, what better place to draw inspiration from? The post Taking Inspiration from Nature With The New Boldr Safari Vogelkop Superb appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Nothing Ear (2) Might be the Best (and Coolest) Apple Airpod Alternative, What Superluminal Travel Actually Looks Like, & the World’s Most Visited Art Installation in Times Square, But Nobody Knows It’s There Worn & Wound
Mar 25, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Nothing Ear (2) Might be the Best (and Coolest) Apple Airpod Alternative, What Superluminal Travel Actually Looks Like, & the World’s Most Visited Art Installation in Times Square, But Nobody Knows It’s There

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Nothing Tech Don’t Want To Follow The Wireless Headphone Crowd? Peep The Nothing’s Updated  Ear(2)  Via Gear Patrol For the longest, I have been “anti” Apple Airpods. I always thought people looked silly when they had those little white apparatuses sticking out of their ear canal and even sillier when I would see someone having a phone conversation, but to my eye, it looked like they were talking to themselves. Well, I’m ready to eat some crow, because as I’m writing these very words, I currently have a set of Apple Airpods Pro snuggled in and I do not hear a peep from the outside world. I now understand the appeal. They’re convenient and they sure do beat lugging around my Bose Comfort 45s. Via Gear Patrol But this WSG story isn’t about the Apple Airpod. It’s about another set of wireless headphones that could be a solid alternative in the event you were wireless-headphone-curious and didn’t want to look like everyone else. The Nothing Ear (2) is the latest from the London-based tech company whose main mission is to “remove barriers betwee...

Vulcain Knows How to Play The Hits and the Chrongraphe 1970’s is their Latest Vintage Tune Worn & Wound
Vulcain Knows How Mar 24, 2023

Vulcain Knows How to Play The Hits and the Chrongraphe 1970’s is their Latest Vintage Tune

Since Vulcain received a new lease on life with entrepreneur and brand enthusiast Guillaume Laidet at the helm, the storied brand has not missed. By tapping into Vulcain’s deep archives and playing the hits, so to speak, many of us have thoroughly enjoyed getting reacquainted with the brand. Debuting with their most iconic watch, the Cricket, was the logical first step in relaunching Vulcain. It’s a watch that has all the name-cache with it being the first mechanical alarm watch and its historical ties to several United States presidents. Following the Cricket, Laidet and company hit us with an unexpected dive watch with the Skindiver Nautique. Once again, by essentially producing a recreation of a past reference, Vulcain released a diver with all the vintage charm you could ask for (a type of watch that every brand needs in their arsenal), packed into a tidy 38mm case. So how does Vulcain move forward from the aforementioned models? Well, with a presidential watch and a diver already in the quiver, naturally a chronograph is the next move. Continuing with what has been clearly working for the brand thus far, Vulcain recently announced the Chronographe 1970’s, a handsome chronograph and another spot-on revival from their back catalog. There is a certain magnetism and allure to the Chronographe 1970’s which I’ll try to identify as we go on. First, the dial. I applauded the typeface choice on the Skindiver Nautique during a recent On-Wrist Reaction, and I’ll do t...

How The World's Most Accurate Watches Are Made Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 24, 2023

How The World's Most Accurate Watches Are Made

Nearly every advance in watchmaking technology has been in the service of increased utility and functionality - even inventions that we now consider entirely luxurious affectations. The minute repeater, for example, was invented so a watch wearer could audibly check the time in the dark in the days before luminous treatment on dials. Even the tourbillon began its existence as a device for enhancing timekeeping accuracy, countering the effects of gravity on a pocketwatch’s movement. Thus it should come as no surprise that as the world entered the electronic era in the mid-20th century, watchmakers would attempt to harness the new technologies to improve the precision - and hence the desirability - of their products. Read on as we trace the evolution of timekeeping technology all the way up through today’s most accurate watches.  Birth of the Chronometer Not long after the tracking of time migrated from giant clocks in the town square to portable devices carried in waistcoat pockets, and eventually worn on wrists (click here for a brief history of watches), the need for a standard of dependable accuracy in these mechanical timekeepers became evident. Hence the establishment of standards for which a timepiece could be deemed a "chronometer." The classical definition of a chronometer goes all the way back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to det...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to stay across all the action at Watches & Wonders with Time+Tide Time+Tide
Mar 24, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to stay across all the action at Watches & Wonders with Time+Tide

The biggest horological moment of the year is only days away. Beginning on March 27, Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 will kick off – alongside a whole Geneva Watch Week that includes other smaller fairs like Time To Watches. Basically, a lot of new releases will be announced next week and we want to make … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to stay across all the action at Watches & Wonders with Time+Tide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Nomos Club Campus Electric Green and Cream Coral Time+Tide
Nomos Club Campus Electric Green Mar 23, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Nomos Club Campus Electric Green and Cream Coral

The Nomos Club Campus is now available in Electric Green and Cream Coral. The new colours are available across both 36mm and 38.5mm sizes. It’s powered by Nomos’ in-house Alpha movement. The idea behind the Nomos Club Campus as a graduation watch marks it out as a unique and fitting gift, whether you’re buying it … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Nomos Club Campus Electric Green and Cream Coral appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Urwerk Introduces the UR-102 “Reloaded” SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces Mar 23, 2023

Urwerk Introduces the UR-102 “Reloaded”

The long anticipated revival of Urwerk’s first model has finally arrived: the UR-102 “Reloaded” is modelled on the watch Urwerk presented at its debut Basel fair in 1997. The new UR-102 preserves the pebble-like form of the original but with enough tweaks to make it different, most notably with a larger case and revamped time display. The model makes it debut as a box set containing two UR-102s, one in titanium and the other all black. Initial thoughts I was looking forward to Urwerk’s revival of the UR-102. And I’m not disappointed with the result – except for the fact that it’s sold only as a pair. The “Reloaded” version is obviously modelled on the 1997 original, but it’s also clearly a different creation. For one, it’s larger and the time display has been redesigned. Add to that the restyled lugs and repositioned crown and you have a watch that’s very much distinct. In short, the new UR-102 is not a remake but a successful and appealing reinterpretation of the original. Leaving aside its origins, the UR-102 also has intrinsic appeal. It’s a clean, attractive design with sci-fi vibes. But the UR-102 is being sold as a pair – both identical save for the case finish – but subsequent versions will be sold individually, making them more accessible. Coming full circle At 41 mm the UR-102 “Reloaded” is noticeably larger than the 1997 original that was just 38 mm wide. The enlarged case retains the same streamlined outline that was inspired b...

Urwerk Returns To Their Roots With New 102 Reloaded Worn & Wound
Urwerk Returns Mar 22, 2023

Urwerk Returns To Their Roots With New 102 Reloaded

Late last year, Urwerk teamed up with artist Cooper Jacoby to create a special one-off version of their original 102 watch from 1997. We brought you live coverage of that watch prior to its auctioning, and wondered if we might see this form return in a fully fledged redesign of the 102, given the full redesign of the case. Today, we receive an answer to that question in the form of this UR102 Reloaded set of watches. The latest 102 gets the same case we saw featured in the one-off that fetched over $400,000 at auction, but misses out on that trick color-changing element that made that one so special. A fair trade off in my book, as I’m just happy to see this case make it into a production reference. The original 102 is an important part of Urwerk history, serving as their first platform and an ultimate proof of concept that’s since evolved in a variety of ways. There are no hands at work here, heck there’s barely even a dial, just a long wandering hour aperture tracing the time across a display arc at the top of the case. It’s simple, elegant, and looks just as fresh today as it did 25 years ago (though the inspiration for this design is much, much older). Indeed, the 102 represents many firsts for the brand, and these are represented within the rotating element of the dial itself, written above the broader celestial themed components. It provides a personal touch to the theme of the watch, without compromising the core themes at work. The disc elements themselves ...

Norqain’s Latest Wild One Celebrates the Brand’s Ties to the Music World and the Town of Zermatt Worn & Wound
Norqain s Latest Wild One Mar 22, 2023

Norqain’s Latest Wild One Celebrates the Brand’s Ties to the Music World and the Town of Zermatt

Sometimes a brand will launch a new watch line to intense fanfare, and then seem to forget about it, letting it twist in the proverbial wind while diligently shoring up other more proven collections. It’s a big gamble to launch a new watch collection, and timing follow ups after a big introduction is an inexact science at best. Norqain, with the launch of the Wild One last fall, has taken an aggressive approach to getting the word about their new high end sports watch, with quick follow ups that expand the palate of what the Wild One can be, and rapidly familiarize the watch community with the new platform.  The latest Wild One has a distinct aesthetic impact, and also serves to highlight a new Norqain partnership, all based around a location that is of genuine importance to the brand. The Wild One Zermatt Unplugged Special Edition celebrates Norqain’s involvement in the Zermatt Unplugged music festival, which occurs annually in the picturesque Swiss ski village at the base of the Matterhorn. Zermatt is also the location of Norqain’s flagship boutique, and as a center of outdoor sport it falls right in line with the brand’s bent towards adventure. To bolster their ties to the music festival, Norqain is offering a limited number of the new watches as part of a package that includes a two night stay in Zermatt during the festival along with a VIP ticket and a day of skiing with Olympic medalists Tina Weirather and Ramon Zenhäusern, who are also Norqain ambassadors....

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Mar 22, 2023

Time to Pack Episode 2: My Watches & Wonders Airplane Travel Kit

We here at Worn & Wound are extremely excited to be attending, once again, Watches & Wonders in Geneva. It’s perhaps the biggest watch event of the year and a first for Kat Shoulders, our media production manager. Flying internationally can be a challenging and stressful time, but Kat has a pretty darn good kit to get her through a long day of flying. From the perfect bag, a useful watch, and a few interesting gadgets, she takes us through what she’ll be carrying on her flight! ​​ This episode is made possible by our friends at Camera West. They have graciously lent Kat the new Panasonic LUMIX S5II to take with her on the trip. Camera West carries many different camera options from Leica, Fujifilm, Sony, and more, but they actually recommended the S5 II for her Watches And Wonders adventure over the other options on the market with the biggest feature being the L-mount alliance making it compatible with Sigma, Leica, and other Panasonic lenses.  Get all the details on Kat’s packing style and her professional tools, along with her very own gear hacks and tricks of the trade. We hope that Time to Pack will be that kind of content you didn’t even know you needed-watch-based content that delves into travel gear and packing in rich and robust ways. Enjoy! Learn more about Camera West and the Panasonic LUMIX S5II. The post Time to Pack Episode 2: My Watches & Wonders Airplane Travel Kit appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Longines Expands Spirit Collection With New Flyback Chronograph Worn & Wound
Longines Expands Spirit Collection Mar 22, 2023

Longines Expands Spirit Collection With New Flyback Chronograph

The Longines Spirit collection welcomes a new member today with the release of a new Flyback Chronograph, bringing a (perhaps surprising) element of Longines heritage into the mix along the way. Longines may not be the first name that comes to mind when hearing the word ‘flyback’ but it probably should be, and this latest Spirit watch will serve as a reminder to the brand’s extensive history with the complication, which dates back to the 1920’s. Visually, the new Spirit Flyback Chronograph presents a cleaner execution than the existing chronograph, placing emphasis on the uniqueness of this complication, however the visual identity of the Spirit collection is clear and present here.  Let’s take a quick step back, and get a better understanding of Longines’ place in history when it comes to the flyback complication. Longines had a lovely chronograph movement called the 13.33Z first introduced in 1913, which, later in life, likely served as a testbed for the flyback mechanism that would flourish in the more well-known 13Z. As far as we know, Longines placed the first flyback mechanism within the 13.33Z in 1929, and it wouldn’t be until June 12th of 1935 that the brand filed for Swiss patent on the mechanism, which would go on to be granted in March of 1936 (Brevet 183262). There’s much more to read on the topic, which has been covered beautifully by SJX and collector Dr. Christian Müller right here. Not that Longines needed an excuse to release their own fl...

Breitling Have Beefed Up Their Top Time Line Just Ahead Of Watches & Wonders WatchAdvice
Breitling Have Beefed Up Their Mar 22, 2023

Breitling Have Beefed Up Their Top Time Line Just Ahead Of Watches & Wonders

Last month, Breitling held a very special event for a handful of watch enthusiasts, and Watch Advice was there to get a great hands on experience with the new Top Time line up, and see how this collection with the new B01 movements and new Thunderbird model felt in person, and most importantly, how they sat on the wrist! With less than a week to go until the watch world descends on Geneva, Breitling have dropped a revised line up of their Top Time collection, with new beefed up specs and adding a new model to the muscle car line up – the Ford Thunderbird, to sit alongside the Mustang, Cobra and Corvette. Watch Advice, along with with a handful of passionate collectors had the pleasure of getting under the hood of the new models (yes there will be many car references in this article, so brace yourself!), and testing them out in person. The Breitling Top Time Collection – Left to Right: Ford Thunderbird, Chevrolet Corvette, Ford Mustang & Shelby Cobra “The Top Time represented a break from traditional watch design for a generation that was breaking with convention in every way… We are going after that sense of freedom and fun with the 1960s-inspired Top Time Classic Cars collection”Georges Kern – Breitling ceo The Top Time collection was released in 2021 with three models – the Mustang, Corvette and Cobra. This year, Breitling have introduced the Ford Thunderbird to the collection, and alongside this, dropped a new engine into them with the new in house calibre...

Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm presents subtle improvements Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm Mar 21, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm presents subtle improvements

The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm is now available in three new variants The ML143 Sellita-based movement ticks inside Great everyday piece Watch enthusiasts, including myself, often search for watches with specific expectations. For example, I often find myself looking at dive watches with unnecessary amounts of water resistance. And there is nothing wrong … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm presents subtle improvements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Phillips to Auction a Patek Philippe Owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the Last Emperor of China Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Owned Mar 21, 2023

Phillips to Auction a Patek Philippe Owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the Last Emperor of China

Last week, news of the latest marquee lot to go under the hammer via Phillips broke across watch media. The phrase “historically significant” is often used to describe high profile vintage watches that go up for auction, but very few actually feel truly historic. I would argue that this particular Patek Philippe, a watch that once belonged to Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the Last Emperor of the Qing Dynasty, meets just about any definition for historically significant that you can come up with. Not only did it belong to a figure from our relatively recent history that marked a profound change in a nation’s history, but in terms of vintage Patek, this complicated Calatrava is worth studying even outside the scope of its significant owner.  If you’re not familiar with Puyi’s story, a brief introduction or refresher is certainly in order to properly contextualize the watch. Aisin-Gioro Puyi became the Emperor of China at the age of 2, abdicated his throne at 7, and was held as a political prisoner by the Soviets following World War II. Puyi led an uncommon and complex life through a period of great political upheaval, but it’s notable that despite the title of Emperor that was thrust upon him as a boy, he never held significant power as a world leader. In his brief stint as the final Emperor of the Qing Dynasty he was essentially a figurehead, and later served as the puppet leader of Manchukuo for the Japanese following their invasion of Manchuria in 1932. Puyi is seen by s...

Daniel Roth Returns with the Tourbillon Souscription SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton LFT Initial thoughts I Mar 21, 2023

Daniel Roth Returns with the Tourbillon Souscription

After more than a year of rumours, LVMH finally confirmed the long expected with its February announcement of the relaunch of Daniel Roth. And now the brand officially debuts its inaugural watch, the Tourbillon Souscription. Modelled on the Daniel Roth tourbillon of 1988, the Tourbillon Souscription is almost a remake of the original from thirty-five years ago. It retains the same styling characterised by a double-ellipse case and one-minute tourbillon at six, but is entirely new in terms of mechanics: inside is a brand-new mechanical movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT). Initial thoughts I got in touch with Daniel Roth and his wife Nicolas after learning of the brand’s revival. They indicated their approval of the project. Their approval will probably have little impact on the new watches since they aren’t involved in the brand’s comeback, but it is certainly good to know. Being a homage to the brand’s origins, the Tourbillon Souscription is a good opening act in its revival. But for the resurrected brand to have longevity and relevance, it would have to do more than remakes; it will have to create new and original products that channel the spirit of the originals, a point I made in my earlier editorial. A Daniel Roth tourbillon from the 1990s The Tourbillon Souscription is clearly inspired by the original watches of the 1990s. It retains the same dimensions and almost all the details, right down to the hobnail guilloche dial. In fact, i...

Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed Time+Tide
Mar 21, 2023

Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed

I do not know about you guys, but I watch a fair bit of television and with so many shows and streaming platforms there is more content than ever before. But, whilst juggling all the different plot lines and narratives, nothing ticks me off more, at least in regard to TV, then when a series … ContinuedThe post Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.