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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.
Reaction: Rolex Gets Silly With Colorful New Oyster Perpetual & Day-Date Dials Worn & Wound
Rolex Gets Silly Mar 31, 2023

Reaction: Rolex Gets Silly With Colorful New Oyster Perpetual & Day-Date Dials

Rolex is always the talk of Watches & Wonders, but this year the conversation focused on an unlikely watch: an Oyster Perpetual with a “Celebration Dial,” a colorful and playful creation that seems very, well, unlike Rolex? But is it, really? It garnered a lot of attention, was immediately memed, and generated some of the most fiery takes of the show. The Worn & Wound editorial team, as you’d expect, has thoughts, so we weigh in on the new Oyster Perpetual, and a similarly colorful and offbeat Day-Date, below.  Zach Kazan No matter how hard brands try to prevent them, leaks of new releases are inevitable. It happened again this year with Rolex, the biggest brand of all. And while we only had hastily shared Google search results to go off of, and no actual specs or even basic information about the watches themselves, the shuttle ride to Palexpo on Day 1 was dominated by talk of gumballs.  The so-called “Celebration Dial” Oyster Perpetuals, along with the spiritually related “Jigsaw” Day-Date, are as whimsical as we’ve seen Rolex in recent years. Lefty GMT aside, this isn’t a brand known for its sense of humor. So a dial filled with colorful circles (51 is the official tally) that correspond with the colors of the most recent Oyster Perpetual refresh from about 3 years ago is bound to generate the hottest of takes. What I want to know from the haters is this: who decided Rolex can’t have fun? I guess if your version of Rolex is “luxury tool watches”...

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The Windup Watch Fair Heads Back West to San Francisco! Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Fortis Oris Mar 29, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair Heads Back West to San Francisco!

Last year, after a brief hiatus, the Windup Watch Fair returned to San Francisco to a new venue with more brands than ever before. The venue and show were a big hit, so the team here at Worn & Wound has decided to double down on San Francisco this year with twice as much space and twice as many brands. Held at Terra Gallery (511 Harrison Street), the same venue as last year, the Windup Watch Fair will play host to a huge assortment of 60+ brands. Among these participating brands will be our Lead Sponsors, namely: Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac. Each of these will be sharing new and exciting watches for the very first time in the metal at Windup San Francisco. Please join us on Friday, April 28th through Sunday, April 30th. You won’t want to miss it! In addition to our amazing Lead Sponsors, we’ll have a combination of the popular brands you already know and love, as well as a slew of new brands and first-time participants. Here’s a full roster of participating brands. For the first time ever-along with panels, giveaways, happy hours, and food trucks-there will be an entire section of the Fair dedicated to accessory and everyday carry items. We’re calling this section ‘EDC Alley’ and it will feature some of our favorite pocket knife, pen, and boot brands, among so much more. Once you need a break from all the watch and EDC goodness, grab a drink and take a break in the Complecto Lounge. We’re honored to support the Complecto community...

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Watches & Wonders: Day 2 Recap Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer who have introduced new Mar 28, 2023

Watches & Wonders: Day 2 Recap

Day 2 of Watches & Wonders is history, and the Worn & Wound team is back to recap the day’s events once again. Today saw more meetings, more video shoots, and more frantically checking our calendars to make sure we don’t miss a key appointment. There were also plenty of surprises, from brands that we have known and loved for years, and also some that we all want to learn more about. Check our reactions to day 2 below. Zach Kazan Watches and Wonders Day 2 started, thankfully, after a good night’s sleep. To this point, the effects of jetlag have been mostly pretty minimal, and waking up early, having a real breakfast, and starting the day on Swiss time in mind and body was certainly a positive development. Some people come to these shows, put in a full day of work, and party hard well into the evening, and frankly I’m not sure how those people survive the week while meeting deadlines.  I’ve learned that a nice thing that happens at an event like this is that a brand will inevitably surprise you, either with the watches they’re exhibiting, the presentation, or both. That happened today with TAG Heuer, who have introduced new Carreras that are more appealing than just about chronograph I’ve seen them release in the last three or four years. And that’s a lot of chronographs. Zach Weiss will have more on these tomorrow, but they’re an early favorite of the show for me. In person, they were so much stronger than I expected based on the brand supplied images. No...

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Watches & Wonders: Day 1 Recap Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGA469 I decided Mar 27, 2023

Watches & Wonders: Day 1 Recap

Throughout the week, the Worn & Wound team on the ground in Geneva will be bringing you updates on our general impressions of the show as it happens. At the end of the day, you can expect our candid thoughts on the watches we saw, the tenor of the crowd, observations of what people are discussing and really excited about, and, of course, a rundown of all the sandwiches consumed in the press lounge. Without any further delay, here’s our Day 1 recap. Zach Kazan Day 1 of Watches & Wonders began with a choice: which watch to wear? I brought three: my IWC 3706, the Louis Erard I picked up recently, and the Grand Seiko SBGA469. I decided on the Grand Seiko, partly because I had a meeting with them later in the day, and partly because it feels like the dressiest watch I brought with me, and that’s kind of the vibe on the first day of Watches & Wonders.  My first impression of Watches & Wonders last year (my first show) was that of total insanity. It seemed electric, and my memory is that the hall was full of people right from the start. I honestly can’t remember what time we actually arrived on day 1 last year, but this year we were among the first at Palexpo, and the mood was quite a bit more subdued. My first meeting was at 10:00, and until that time we mostly got our bearings as a team, went over the plan we had previously established, and watched the hall fill up (gradually) as we waited for that first appointment. Maybe it’s the fact that this is no longer a brand n...

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A Week In Watches Ep. 42: Longines Reclaims Their Heritage, Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded Mar 26, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 42: Longines Reclaims Their Heritage, Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded

This episode of A Week In Watches is the answer to the ultimate question of life, the universe, and everything: 42. It is also the lead in to Watches & Wonders, which begins tomorrow. Our editorial team will be there in full force, and you can follow along with all the action right here on Worn & Wound, and on our YouTube channel, which you can subscribe to right here. In the lead up to the show, we’re seeing plenty of exciting releases hoping to get the jump on things, so this week we’re taking a look at something new (but also old) from Urwerk in the form of a new 102 Reloaded. We’ve also got looks at new watches from Czapek, Longines, Vulcain, and Furlan Marri for a healthy selection of new watches across the spectrum. We’ve got plenty more to say about the new Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph right here, a watch that reclaims the brand’s history as the first to use a flyback mechanism in a wristwatch back in the 1920s. Keep an eye out for hands-on impressions of the rest of these watches coming to the pages of Worn & Wound soon. Let us know your thoughts in the comments below. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 42: Longines Reclaims Their Heritage, Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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In Conversation with Michel Navas on Louis Vuitton’s New High Watchmaking Collection Atop Courchevel Revolution
Louis Vuitton s New High Watchmaking Mar 10, 2023

In Conversation with Michel Navas on Louis Vuitton’s New High Watchmaking Collection Atop Courchevel

After winning the GPHG’s Audacity Prize in 2021 with the Tambour Carpe Diem, Louis Vuitton unveiled today in Courchevel the new story of La Fabrique du Temps. Four high watchmaking timepieces have been developed with exceptional complications including two automata with 5 to 7 animations and sapphire innovations. Eleonor sat down with creative genius Michel […]

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Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 1: Rules of Engagement Time+Tide
Feb 24, 2023

Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 1: Rules of Engagement

Editor’s note: Zach has long carried the torch for the #tinywristtribe, advocating on behalf of all watch lovers with smaller wrists. But today the torch is passed to the latest contributor to join our team, Kylie Lloyd-Wyatt. She is equally enthusiastic about finding watches that best suit a smaller wrist, but, rather than shy away … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 1: Rules of Engagement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watch Scrolling: Here are Five Instagram Accounts We Think Are Worth a Follow Worn & Wound
Feb 17, 2023

Watch Scrolling: Here are Five Instagram Accounts We Think Are Worth a Follow

You’ve probably heard of (and likely participated in) something called “Doom Scrolling” over the course of your life on social media. It’s when you jump on an app, and just keep scrolling forever, taking in all the banality, bad news, misinformation, and – how could we forget – unwanted advertisements that you can possibly stand. When you eventually look up from your phone, hours have passed, your automatic watch is begging for you to move it lest it run out of reserve, and you’ve become absolutely convinced the internet is nothing but a soulless void, and you should delete all the apps, forever.  I empathize, but you don’t need to do anything quite so extreme. Maybe it’s just a matter of refreshing your follower list? Enter: Watch Scrolling, where a member of the Worn & Wound Team shares a handful of watch related Instagram accounts that might be a little off the beaten path, but are definitely worth a follow for great photography, insightful commentary, or, you know, just good vibes. These are the Instagram accounts that make the watch related ecosystem a better place.  If you follow watch accounts that you think more people should be aware of, drop them in the comments below – we always love a suggestion for a good IG follow!   @alangejourney   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Paul (@alangejourney) If you’ve been to a watch meetup in New York, chances are you’ve met Paul, the collector behind the @alangejourney account. As his...

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Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Feb 15, 2023

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours

Louis Vuitton (LV) marked the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical watch last year (with an El Primero-powered chronograph). The brand has rapidly evolved its horological offerings over the two decades, going from largely basic, monogrammed watches to ambitious complications like the gothic Carpe Diem Minute Repeater with automaton.  A more whimsical example of LV’s progress in complications is the Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours, a quirky interpretation of the jump hour complication that’s presented in a redesigned, svelte version of its signature drum-shaped case. Initial thoughts At the distance, the Vivienne Jump Hours looks like a run-of-the-mill character watch that’s slightly fancier than average. But upon closer inspection, it reveals a novel complication and an impressive degree of detail in the execution of the dial. The jump hour is mechanically conventional but presents as a double jumping indicator thanks to clever design. Its whimsical and unusual presentation typifies the spirit of LV. In fact, the complication is different enough that we hope it will make its way into more watches, especially timepieces for men. Given that the titular Vivienne character has a male counterpart named Gaston, it would make sense for the complication to make its way into a watch in a larger size.  The Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours “Casino” with a green skarn dial And I really dig the dials of the Vivienne Jump Hours, especially the dial in skarn, a re...

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Enthusiast Spotlight: Unpacking a Watch Photographer’s Trinkets and Tools with the NOMOS Club Sport Neomatik Worn & Wound
Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Feb 9, 2023

Enthusiast Spotlight: Unpacking a Watch Photographer’s Trinkets and Tools with the NOMOS Club Sport Neomatik

In this spotlight, photographer and bonafide collector, Erin Comite (a.k.a. @pockettrinkets) takes us through her love of gear, photography, and NOMOS Glashütte watches. Hey Erin, thanks so much for taking part in our latest spotlight. Tell us a little about yourself!  Hi, I’m Erin Comite. I live in NYC with my husband and a miniature dachshund. By day, I work fully remote as a network engineer. Any downtime I have is typically spent somehow absorbed in the watch realm, where I’m either taking photos and editing them, or obsessively researching timepieces. I have a couple of small collections of timepieces, pens, and other trinkets-and I like to photograph and share them in groups where others do the same. You recently spent some time with the new NOMOS Club Sport neomatiks. What are your initial thoughts and impressions? The new NOMOS Club Sport neomatiks, both the 37mm in petrol green and the 42mm date in blue, are great everyday watches. The 42 is the bigger brother and was released a year earlier. Apparently, it’s popularity led NOMOS to release a new, smaller size. I’m intrigued by the versatility of being able to keep it on the metal bracelet 100% of the time, or swapping straps out easily with the quick change spring bars. I don’t need to go into detail over the anxiety-inducing process that is changing straps and hoping to not scratch your watch… or worse. But if you’re up for it, NOMOS makes a tool kit to help make adjusting links on the bracelet...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega tops Rolex, JLC collectibles and another release from Grand Seiko Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Another week another weekly Jan 27, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega tops Rolex, JLC collectibles and another release from Grand Seiko

Another week, another weekly round up. If the brands keep bringing it, I will keep summing up the highlights. Here we go! Omega oust Rolex with brand new technology that promises 0/+2 second accuracy a day New Spirate™ System debuts new hairspring with ultra-fine 0/+2 regulation capability The system debuts in new Speedmaster Super Racing watch Its … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega tops Rolex, JLC collectibles and another release from Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Omega’s New Speedmaster Super Racing Has a Brand New Regulating System Allowing for Unheard of Accuracy Worn & Wound
Omega s New Speedmaster Super Jan 26, 2023

Omega’s New Speedmaster Super Racing Has a Brand New Regulating System Allowing for Unheard of Accuracy

Today, Omega has unveiled a new Speedmaster that their social media team has been teasing aggressively for the past few weeks. They promised a “tiny device” delivering a “massive change,” and to that end the announcement today is really more about mechanics than a new watch. There is a new watch, of course, but to the extent that today’s news excites you, it will almost certainly be a result of a very small component that Omega has completely rethought.  The Speedmaster Super Racing is the first timepiece from Omega to feature what they’re calling “Spirate” technology. Spirate is essentially a new method of movement regulation by way of a small knob connected to the balance that allows a watchmaker to adjust the rate in increments down to the tenth of a second. Omega claims that the end result is a movement that’s accurate to within 0/+2 seconds per day. Again, this is a mechanical movement that is, yes, METAS certified to be within two seconds per day. That’s Spring Drive level accuracy, without the benefit of quartz derived regulation. Assuming Spirate works as advertised (there’s no reason not to assume that given Omega’s proficiency in making highly accurate movements at a large scale) this is an enormously impressive accomplishment.  How does it work, exactly? Omega had to develop an entirely new silicon balance spring that can be adjusted for stiffness via a mechanism connected to the balance bridge (easily visible through the sapphire caseb...

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Omega ousts Rolex with brand new technology that promises 0/+2 second accuracy a day Time+Tide
Omega ousts Rolex Jan 26, 2023

Omega ousts Rolex with brand new technology that promises 0/+2 second accuracy a day

New Spirate™ System debuts new hairspring with ultra-fine 0/+2 regulation capability. The system debuts in new Speedmaster Super Racing watch. Its usage beyond the Super Racing is planned, but consumers will need to wait for new calibres – not just new watches. COSC, METAS, Superlative, and more. There are various chronometer certifications within the industry today, with each, … ContinuedThe post Omega ousts Rolex with brand new technology that promises 0/+2 second accuracy a day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hublot Jan 25, 2023

We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites

The new releases from LVMH Watch Week came to New York City last week, and of course the Worn & Wound team was there to check them out. It was the first big batch of new releases in 2023, and Bulgari, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith all brought a variety of watches to display. Here are initial impressions from Blake Buettner, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan. Kat Shoulders  My favorite watch from the LVMH Preview was the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. There were no doubt higher end horology pieces at the preview, but as far as watches I’d be ready to buy on the spot, this one won the day for me. I’ve been known amongst the Worn and Wound crew to not be a huge titanium lover, and quite honestly, I’m perfectly OK with that. The metal typically isn’t my favorite to wear due to the lighter feel. However, the grade 2 titanium that TAG uses felt incredibly nice in person and high quality. Maybe it was the sand blasted finishing as well, but something just really struck me about this particular Aquaracer. The finishing, the feel, the bezel action…it all just comes together perfectly in my opinion. The older I get, the more comfortable I am in this hobby saying that quartz is actually really convenient. Add the ability to charge the movement via solar power, and you have a really great tool watch you literally never have to worry about. The grayed out Aquaracer shutter dial that we’ve become familiar with along with the ice blue hands and text is eye-catc...

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Out of Office: How We Spent Our Winter Break, Part I – feat. Tudor, IWC, & Rolex Worn & Wound
Tudor IWC & Rolex Jan 17, 2023

Out of Office: How We Spent Our Winter Break, Part I – feat. Tudor, IWC, & Rolex

For this edition of Out of Office, the team writes about what they wore when they were literally on vacation over the course of the recent winter holiday season. The idea was simple: pick a watch, wear it over the break, and chronicle your experience with it. What kinds of winter adventures did our editors get up to? Would any of them even leave the house? Find out below, and come back later this week for part II. Zach Weiss This holiday season, I purposefully spent a decent amount of my time on my couch, chilling. Decompressing from a very intense but exciting year here at Worn & Wound. I won’t regale you with what watches I wore as I caught up on Andor (excellent, btw) and a slew of mediocre horror movies. Rather, I’ll talk about the one watch I took on a short trip to Montreal the week before Christmas. One of the things I enjoy about traveling, as demented as this might sound, is the challenge of only having one watch. Yes, these days, I don’t even take a watch roll. Whatever watch I leave my apartment with is the watch I’ll wear for the duration. Why? Well, it’s a good opportunity to “bond” with a watch. Forge some memories around a hopefully fun trip that can be triggered by looking at the watch as some later date. It also makes me think about which watch from my collection is best suited for the trip. ok, this photo was taken in London last year, but it is my Black Bay Pro Admittedly, I’m not the most adventurous person, so my trips tend to involve w...

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Bulgari By Gérald Genta Octo Quadri-Retro Chronograph From 2011: Embodying The Past And A Possible Future Of A Once Imperious Haute Horlogerie Leader Quill & Pad
Bulgari Dec 6, 2022

Bulgari By Gérald Genta Octo Quadri-Retro Chronograph From 2011: Embodying The Past And A Possible Future Of A Once Imperious Haute Horlogerie Leader

The Bulgari by Gérald Genta Octo Quadri-Retro Chronograph features four retrograde displays and a jumping hour. Even more than its distinctive shape, the Octo Quadri-Retro’s strongest link to its Genta past is the crossfire of snapdragon displays on its sectored face. Tim Mosso dissects the history of this brand using the quirks of this uber-interesting timepiece.

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Review: The Grönefeld 1941 Principia Special Edition for Sincere Fine Watches Deployant
Grönefeld Dec 5, 2022

Review: The Grönefeld 1941 Principia Special Edition for Sincere Fine Watches

Grönefeld – managed by brothers Bart and Tim Grönefeld – is a household name in high-end independent watchmaking. The brand, based in the Netherlands, is known for its contemporary design, immaculate finissage and technical complications. For a long while, watches with technical complications such as the tourbillon, remontoire and deadbeat seconds were the only normRead More

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Christiaan Van Der Klaauw New Majority Shareholder Pim Koeslag In Conversation: Shooting For The Stars Quill & Pad
Christiaan van der Klaauw New Majority Shareholder Pim Dec 2, 2022

Christiaan Van Der Klaauw New Majority Shareholder Pim Koeslag In Conversation: Shooting For The Stars

Not long ago, Christiaan van der Klaauw announced that Pim Koeslag would join the company as a majority shareholder. Koeslag further complements the successful team of Daniël and Maria Reintjes, who will both stay on in their positions. Martin Green talked to Koeslag to get the whole story.

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GADA-OFF: The Longines Spirit Titanium vs the Tudor BB58. Which is the better daily wearer? Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Titanium vs Nov 27, 2022

GADA-OFF: The Longines Spirit Titanium vs the Tudor BB58. Which is the better daily wearer?

Editor’s Note: This article was originally published back in January earlier this year, but, with our recent list of the team’s GADA (go anywhere do anything) watch picks, this article came back to mind. Two daily wearers, with competetive specs and their own tradeoffs. A very solid match-up, dive back into the debate below. When the … ContinuedThe post GADA-OFF: The Longines Spirit Titanium vs the Tudor BB58. Which is the better daily wearer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph “JPS” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Nov 23, 2022

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph “JPS”

Having just announced a limited edition with a gold case and semiprecious stone dial, TAG Heuer has debuted another all-gold Carrera, the Carrera Chronograph “JPS”. It features an 18k yellow gold case matched with a black-and-gold dial inspired by the 1158 CHN chronograph of the 1970s, a colour combination better known as the “JPS”. That’s is short for John Player Special, a cigarette brand that sponsored the Lotus Formula 1 team in the 1970s. Its brand colours were black and gold, which was also the paintwork for the Lotus race cars. That led to the “JPS” label for the Rolex Daytona in the same colours, though the nickname has since been applied to sports chronographs in the same livery. Initial thoughts The Carrera “JPS” is essentially the same model that’s usually seen in steel, but now given a luxe makeover with a gold case and “JPS” dial. In typical Carrera style it opts for a two-counter look with a “ghost” seconds at six, resulting in a vintage vibe although the case is a very modern and slightly chunky 42 mm in diameter. But the new Carrera really is all about the dial, which is no doubt meant to evoke what is now a million-dollar watch. While the market for vintage Daytonas has plateaued or even declined since its peak four years ago, the Daytona “JPS” has continued to sell for large sums, with a handful crossing the million-dollar mark over the past year. Besides the rarity of the model, the value also reflects the intrinsic appe...

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Sarpaneva Introduces the Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Nov 16, 2022

Sarpaneva Introduces the Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi”

Inspired by the northern lights, the Sarpaneva x Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” continues the Finnish’s brands tradition of artfully applied Super-Luminova. This 17-piece limited edition Stepan Sarpaneva’s third model dedicated to Valteri Bottas, a fellow Finn who competes for the Alfa Romeo Formula 1 team. Unlike the first pair of Bottas editions that made by Mr Sarpaneva’s more affordable S.U.F. brand, the Kilpisjärvi is a full-fledged Sarpaneva watch so it has an elaborately open-worked dial, unusually shaped case, and in a first for the brand, the Chronode P1003 automatic movement inside. Initial thoughts Born into a family of designers and artists, Stepan Sarpenava unsurprisingly has a strikingly distinct aesthetic. This comes through in all of his work, despite the diversity of his offerings. With its open-worked dial and multi-coloured lume, the Kilpisjärvi might seem similar to his recent releases, but it is notably different. In contrast to the earlier editions that were heavily figurative, the Kilpisjärvi is abstract, especially during the day. In fact, the dial pattern is almost graceful, though the aggressive Sarpaneva styling is still obvious in the hands and case. Only at night when the Super-Luminova glows is the northern lights motif easily apparent. For anyone who enjoys Mr Sarpaneva’s unusual aesthetic, the Kilpisjärvi is easily appealing – with two caveats. One is the size, which at 46 mm is large and places it amongst the biggest Sarp...

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