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Christopher Ward Twelve X – one May 12, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 80 – Highlights from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair

In this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, we’re coming to from the Gateway Pavillion at Fort Mason in San Francisco, where just last week nearly 100 watch and gear brands came together for the biggest Windup Watch Fair on record. It was a truly great time, and we’re excited to do it again in Chicago in just a few months! As is customary for the Windup editions of A Week in Watches, we’re bringing you highlights from the show this week. Managing Editor Zach Kazan talks to Mike Pearson about the all new Christopher Ward Twelve X – one of the true sensations not just of Windup, but in the watch world at large over the last few weeks. He also chats with Nicholas Bowman-Scargill from Fears and Rob Caplan from Topper Jewelers about their latest collaboration, which launched at the fair, and he spends some time with another new release from Paulin that was also a huge hit with the San Francisco crowd. Finally, Zach chats with Trip Henderson, Founder of Lōcī Watches, a young California based brand making their Windup Watch Fair debut.  The post A Week in Watches Ep. 80 – Highlights from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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The Top 10 Watchmaker Schools in the United States Teddy Baldassarre
May 10, 2024

The Top 10 Watchmaker Schools in the United States

For most of us, the art and science of watchmaking is simply the technical underpinning behind the timepieces that fascinate us as enthusiasts, hobbyists, and collectors - an esoteric and intricate world delved into at varying levels of interest based on our individual curiosity about, and/or understanding of, the mechanisms involved. For some, however, learning how to assemble, repair, or perhaps even build a watch from scratch is an obsession that can lead to a lifelong and very fulfilling career as a trained watchmaker and repairer- and to put it bluntly, the watch industry needs more of them. Here are the 10 state-accredited educational institutions in the U.S. offering full-time curricula for watchmaking careers as compiled by the Horological Society of New York.  Gem City College School of Horology, Quincy, IL Photo: AWCI Gem City College was founded in 1870 as Gem City Business College by Civil War veteran DeLafayette Musselman, whose name still adorns one of the campus buildings. Located in the city of Quincy, adjacent to the Mississippi River, the College added its horology school in 1961, which was a department that had actually migrated over from Bradley University in neighboring Peoria, as well as a cosmetology program in 1975, expanding from its original business model of training students in business-specific courses like banking, penmanship, and accounting. Today, the Horology School offers courses in watchmaking and watch repair, clock repair, jew...

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Brew Teams Up with Alton Brown for the Limited Edition Retrograph Relic Worn & Wound
Brew Teams Up May 10, 2024

Brew Teams Up with Alton Brown for the Limited Edition Retrograph Relic

The success story that is the Brew Watch Co. is one of our favorites in the entire industry. Jonathan Ferrer’s brand has grown well beyond its initial humble scope over the course of the last few years with a series of releases that have transcended the microbrand bubble, gaining admirers from every corner of the watch community. With Brew, it all comes down to the design, and every new watch proves once again that you don’t need to spend a fortune to own something unique and genuinely special. Brew’s latest release calls back to the brand’s foundation in coffee themed designs while treading new ground with a high profile collaborator. The new Retrograph Relic, released in partnership with Alton Brown, feels like a full circle moment for the brand, and for watch fans who came of age watching “Good Eats” it offers a ton of charm.  What we have here is a Retrograph, Brew’s signature Meca-Quartz chronograph, with a special oxidized dial that has been treated to express what Brew calls an “espresso-esque patina.” The tones of brown form randomly on the dial during the process, so each of the 250 pieces in this limited edition is unique.  Alton Brown’s involvement makes sense on a few levels. First, he’s a very notable watch guy, having appeared on Hodinkee’s Talking Watches all the way back in 2017, and being the subject of watch-spots from the Instagram community for even longer. Secondly, if you know his work on “Good Eats,” you know that he tak...

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First Look – Meet the New Arinis Collection, the Lake Diving Watch from Elka Monochrome
May 10, 2024

First Look – Meet the New Arinis Collection, the Lake Diving Watch from Elka

Microbrands are reshaping today’s watchmaking landscape in remarkable ways. These small-scale ventures craft enticing timepieces, leveraging modern technology, marketing strategies, and the combined expertise, passion, vision, and business acumen. What’s particularly striking, at least for some, is their ability to deliver well-designed, high-quality watches at compelling prices, often packed with features typically associated with much […]

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Tissot Debuts New Green Dials for the PRX SJX Watches
Tissot Debuts New Green Dials May 10, 2024

Tissot Debuts New Green Dials for the PRX

A bestseller thanks to its integrated-bracelet design and accessible price, the Tissot PRX now gets more new dial options, including a “light green” hue for the time-only PRX Powermatic 80 and a “graded” green for the PRX Chronograph. The new green dials join the recent blue dial options and more compact 35mm model. Initial thoughts The new models are only cosmetic updates, but are otherwise the same. The brushed steel cases and ETA movements remain unchanged. So do the respective prices, making them the same value propositions as before. Notably, the chronograph dial gets a more substantive cosmetic upgrade beyond the colour. It now sports the waffle-patterned dial previously found only on the PRX time-only models. This is an attractive upgrade that imbues the model with a sportier aesthetic. New dial options The Powermatic 80’s dial features the same waffle pattern found in past models, but now finished in a “light” green hue that first seen on the quartz version released in 2021. The chronograph dial is presented in a darker shade of green with a gradient finish. It also gains the same stamped pattern found on the time-only model. This marks a departure from previous iterations of the chronograph, which were characterised by a vertically brushed finish with a two-colour scheme. Both watches retain the same case dimensions and movements found on earlier models. The three-hander is powered by the Powermatic 80.111, derived from the ETA C07.111. Tissot has e...

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Introducing the B/1, the Debut Watch from Toledano & Chan Worn & Wound
Cartier s May 9, 2024

Introducing the B/1, the Debut Watch from Toledano & Chan

A long lived pet peeve of mine in the watch industry is people referring to watches as “Brutalist” without having a clue about what the term really means. How, I always wonder, can a brand refer to their watch as being inspired by Brutalist architecture without it even being made of concrete? Well, the debut watch from Toledano & Chan is properly Brutalist in a very specific way, and truly lives up to its inspiration. And while the watch itself might not be made of concrete, the box is (really), and as someone who identifies Boston City Hall as one of his favorite buildings, that scores major points in my book.  The B/1 is the result of a collaboration between watch designer Alfred Chan and artist, watch collector, entrepreneur, and budding TikTok personality Phil Toledano. You may remember Phil from his appearance on the Worn & Wound podcast, and if you’ve spent any time looking at watches on Instagram or TikTok, you’ve likely seen him unboxing new (but actually old) Pateks, Cartiers, and Piagets with his pal Mike Nouveau. Phil (who goes my Mr. Enthusiast on social media) has long been one of my favorite collectors for his eccentric and adventurous taste, fully embracing the strangest and rarest designs by the aforementioned brands and many others. If the industry as a whole is currently moving toward smaller watches, shaped cases, stone dials, and the avant-garde, let it be said that Phil got there first. He’s been interested in this stuff for years, and bangi...

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Tennis Anyone? Timex Releases their Latest Peanuts Themed Novelty Worn & Wound
Timex Releases their Latest Peanuts May 9, 2024

Tennis Anyone? Timex Releases their Latest Peanuts Themed Novelty

Snoopy and the rest of Charles Schulz’s iconic Peanuts characters have graced newspaper pages since 1950 and for nearly as long, the gang has partnered with Timex to create special edition watch collaborations. Together they bring a playfulness to the wrist like few brands can. Whether you grew up reading the Sunday funnies or watching the holiday-themed specials, their collaborative collection is nostalgic, cheerful, and beloved by casual wearers and knowledgeable collectors alike. The first Timex x Peanuts watches were originally introduced in 1969, and everyone’s favorite characters have all found their way across numerous Timex watches in the 55 years since. New for 2024 is a gold-tone stainless steel Timex Marlin featuring The World-Famous Tennis Player, one of Snoopy’s alter-egos, which was first introduced in 1970. According to the legend himself, he hates playing against top players like Arthur Ashe and Jimmy Connors because they “keep hitting the ball back.” This manually wound timepiece is packed with delightful details, as Snoopy’s arms and his tennis ball are used to read the time. His racket arm tells the minutes, while his other arm displays the hours, and the tennis ball represents the seconds. There is a very neat animation on the Timex website that shows the hands in motion, depicting our favorite beagle in mid-swing.  Powering this one is a Japanese Miyota movement and measurements are 34mm in diameter by 10mm in thickness. The whimsical Time...

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Hands-on – The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Shows Great Promise Monochrome
IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph May 9, 2024

Hands-on – The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Shows Great Promise

As we approached the end of 2023, the landscape for those seeking an obtainable motorsport-inspired chronograph underwent a shift, offering a slightly broader array of options. This was spurred by the notable introduction of an extension to IWC‘s Pilot’s Watch series: the Performance Chronograph 41. Available in titanium to commemorate the brand’s enduring partnership with […]

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Rolex, Cartier, and the Competitive Edge: the Watches of Challengers Worn & Wound
Cartier May 9, 2024

Rolex, Cartier, and the Competitive Edge: the Watches of Challengers

Before I hop into the watches in “Challengers” and how they play into the movie, I want to establish an important fact about me - I am not a sports fan, much less a tennis fan. However, this movie wasn’t really about tennis, was it?  This is more a movie about the loss of innocence to the nature of competition. Now that is something I can understand, and I’d wager you can too. Many of us are pushed to be competitive from a young age. Whether it be through sports, academics, the competition over jobs, success in the arts, or even in love, the spirit of competition is implanted early, and if you’re not careful it can take over. And yes, when it comes to the consumption of competition, watches can play a role.  We all start out wide-eyed and accepting of others, the concept of “prejudice” or an “enemy” is not innate but instilled through slow infiltration. At the start, the characters in Challengers are exactly this - hopeful and innocent. Art Donaldson (Mike Faist) and Patrick Zweig (Josh O’Connor) are former boarding school friends and roommates turned tennis teammates. They are close friends whose relationship extends both on and off court. Patrick is established as the naturally better tennis player at the beginning of their careers, but his love and respect for his friend Art is evident. In an early scene the two win a doubles match, but are then discussing a singles match they have the next day against one another where Art asks if Patrick woul...

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First Look – The New Editions of the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition Hamilton May 9, 2024

First Look – The New Editions of the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition

Hamilton, once one of America’s greatest watchmakers, was a precursor of the field watch during World War 1. Supplying precision railroad watches to soldiers under General Pershing’s command, Hamilton adapted its pocket watches to wristwatch format, eventually supplying over one million wristwatches to the U.S. military during World War II. Fast-forward almost 80 years, and […]

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H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners on Rubber Straps with the Alpine F1 Team Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces May 8, 2024

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners on Rubber Straps with the Alpine F1 Team

One of my favorite Watches & Wonders experiences these past few years was the brief time I got to spend with the Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon. All tourbillons are special, of course, but this one is especially unique and I found it to be genuinely kind of awe inspiring in person. As the name of the watch implies, the cylindrical hairspring wraps around the balance spindle vertically, giving what is already a fairly dramatic watch an even more profound sense of depth. It’s a particularly challenging watchmaking feat to pull off, but pays dividends, according to Moser, in reducing friction and improving isochronism, both of which play a role in a more stable rate through the duration of the movement’s power reserve.  In the last few weeks, Moser has been busy introducing two new versions of their most impressive tourbillon, this time as part of the Streamliner collection of watches, and in both cases in partnership with the BWT Alpine F1 Team. The watches take a similar aesthetic approach seen in the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon, with a skeletonized dial that prominently highlights the flying tourbillon at 6:00, and a decentralized dial at the 12:00 position. The difference of course is that now we have this complication in a Streamliner case (and on a rubber strap) for a watch (a pair of watches, actually) that might just be the sportiest Moser has ever made. Both versions of the watch use synthetic, translucent minerals for the small decentralized dials. For...

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Surviving the Fallout Wasteland: Gear for the “Vault Dweller” Worn & Wound
May 8, 2024

Surviving the Fallout Wasteland: Gear for the “Vault Dweller”

“War, war never changes.” An opening line that many Fallout fans will remember and a chilling comment about the nature of humanity. Based some 200 years in the future, the Fallout universe offers a striking look at what could become, if a nuclear apocalypse were to occur. Filled with witty one-liners, brutal imagery, and a splash of romance, Fallout has come to life in a live-action interpretation available to stream now on Amazon Prime. Based on the original video games, the new series features a unique perspective on “Vault Dweller” life and offers new lore about the beginning of the end. I’ll stop before I spoil anything, but as a fan of the games, sci-fi, and dystopian imagery, I can’t recommend this show enough. While I hope that this universe stays science-fiction, it did raise a question in my mind: What gear would I trust to keep me alive in a world like the one portrayed in the series? While several different scenarios could play out in a post-nuclear world, I’m going to stick to one that most follows the show: You’ve survived for many years in a vault, and are now leaving home in search of something important (remember, no spoilers to the show here). All of these items would have been acquired and stored within the vault since it was built. In this scenario, I’d need to carry all of my gear in my pack, and gear failure is not an option. These are the pieces of gear I’d trust in this extremely hypothetical scenario.  Knife – Giant Mouse GMF4...

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Five Must-Have EDC Items Worn & Wound
May 8, 2024

Five Must-Have EDC Items

It’s time for a good old fashioned EDC-themed Chronicle, and we’ve gathered what we consider some of the most essential – and practical – gear you can pick up. They say variety is the spice of life, and there’s plenty of flavor here, from knives to pouches to pens, and more. Without further ado, here are five must-have EDC items to help you stay prepared for anything life may throw at you. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. It’s time for a good old fashioned EDC-themed Chronicle, and we’ve gathered what we consider some of the most essential – and practical – gear you can pick up. They say variety is the spice of life, and there’s plenty of flavor here, from knives to pouches to pens, and more. Without further ado, here are five must-have EDC items to help you stay prepared for anything life may throw at you. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. The post Five Must-Have EDC Items appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Explained: The Detent Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s natural escapement May 8, 2024

Explained: The Detent Escapement

Among the many different escapement types, one in particular stands out, the detent escapement. Taking its name from détente, French for “trigger”, this system is often considered to be the purest type of escapement due to its efficiency and virtually lubrication-free operation. Any sort of mechanical clock or watch requires an escapement, a mechanism that transfers torque from the power source to the regulating organ. The escapement bridges the steady rotation of the gears in the going train and the oscillation of the balance. As a result, the escapement fulfils a double function, both maintaining the swing of the balance and regulating the discharge speed of the mainspring and going train. The detent escapement was invented in the second half of the 18th century,  somewhat simultaneously but independently by the English watchmakers Thomas Earnshaw (1749-1829) and John Arnold (1736-1799). A somewhat similar escapement was prototyped by the Frenchman Pierre Le Roy (1717–1785) some three decades earlier, but the modern detent escapement is derived mostly from Earnshaw’s design. Initially, the escapement was conceived for use in marine chronometers, explaining why it is also known as a chronometer escapement. The chronometer escapement also inspired many innovative subsequent escapements, like the Breguet’s natural escapement, the Robin escapement, and the Daniels co-axial. Drawings of detent escapement types taken from ‘The Marine Chronometer: Its History and ...

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Girard Perregaux Debuts a Pair of Pink Gold Laureatos with New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux May 7, 2024

Girard Perregaux Debuts a Pair of Pink Gold Laureatos with New Dial Colors

There’s something undeniably satisfying about a big gold sports watch. I think their appeal is rooted in the idea that they don’t really make too much sense. A sports watch, in theory, is something that should be built to take some abuse, if not in sport, than in the average day to day life of a normal human being. They should, effectively, disappear. Making a sports watch out of a solid block of gold turns this idea on its head. Gold, of course, is anything but under the radar. It’s noticeable from across a room, in fact. Further if it’s immaculately finished in a way that brings its shine and luster to the forefront. And gold, for all of its great qualities, is not exactly the most robust material. Some alloys almost seem to have the consistency of peanut butter. You can tell when they’ve been touched in a way that steel just doesn’t show. And yet, the pull of the gold sports watch is real. And Girard Perregaux, with the Laureato, makes an awfully good one.  At the same press event that saw GP announce their fantastic new titanium Laureato chronograph, they also unveiled, under embargo, two new pink gold flavors of the 42mm Laureato in exceedingly well matched dial colors. Ultramarine Blue and Sage Green dial variants enter the collection today, and each works incredibly well with the subtle pink hue of the gold. I was particularly impressed by the green dial when I saw these watches in person a few months ago. Green and yellow gold is a classic combination,...

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