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New: Kudoke 2 Nocturne
Small independent watchmaker from Glashütte introduces his second watch with his own movement. Here is the release information on the Kudoke 2 Nocturne.
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Time+Tide
The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point
Editor’s note: There’s the simple fact that Seiko are turning up the heat on the Swiss watch industry, and then there’s the way they’re doing it. Both are 100% worth taking note of. For example, let’s re-examine the Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J, a high-spec Spring Drive GMT at a shade under $8000AUD, that carries with it a murdered … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition 'Orlebar Brown'
Just in time for summer, a new sport watch and resort wear collection.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches
If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, it should come as no surprise that the Longines Heritage Collection has gone from strength to strength over the last few years. An early sign of the success that was to come was the Longines Heritage Diver 1967 in 2015 (a watch that was kindly donated to the Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001
After an extended absence, Patek Philippe’s signature perpetual calendar chronograph is once again available in yellow gold with the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001. The new watch joins the platinum and rose gold versions currently in the catalogue, and is the first perpetual calendar chronograph in yellow gold since the ref. 5970J was discontinued in 2009. Initial thoughts The very first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph powered by an in-house movement, the ref. 5270 was introduced in 2011 but remains under appreciated, primarily because it isn’t one of the earlier perpetual calendar chronograph that are regarded as “iconic” (namely the refs. 5970, 3970, 2499 and 1518). But the ref. 5270 is excellent, or at least very good, in most tangible aspects. It’s a well-made watch with a smartly-constructed, modern movement inside robust-yet-elegant case of that sort that Patek Philippe excels at. And functionally it is also excellent, especially with the slightly larger calendar windows. Admittedly the movement finishing is not quite artisanal, but it is on par with other high-end brands that produce watches in substantial numbers, like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. It does costs more than what the competition charges for an equivalent watch, but the value of the Patek Philippe brand is tremendous. The ref. 5270J adds the option of a far more classical look to the line up. The combination of a silver dial and yellow gold case is the ...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection, including a more toned Odysseus
From A. Lange & Söhne, we’ve learned never to predict what might be next. In this clip from our Watch Fair & Chill coverage of Watches & Wonders 2020, you’ll see exactly what we mean. When a wristwatch can cost as much as a house or a McLaren supercar, there are a certain amount of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection, including a more toned Odysseus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Omega Constellation 41mm Models
The watch with claws in a bigger and bolder case.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #183: Why Do Watches Make Us Happy?
Watch collecting doesn’t exactly make a whole lotta sense - most of the time. What we can be sure of as watch collectors is that watch collecting, at the very least, elicits happiness in some way. Why is that?
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication: A Case Study In Design
The 2020 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication is a perfect example of using design to take an already great watch to an entirely new level. Joshua Munchow takes a deep dive into what makes this highly complicated model so, so good.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is more grit than glamour
This year, Daniel Craig will star as James Bond for the final time in the upcoming No Time To Die film, a blockbuster that is sure to be action packed and offer a much needed reprieve from the dystopian movie that is our current reality. On his wrist for this film will be a watch … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is more grit than glamour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph is arguably the most captivating piece in the new Master Control series. The case is sharper than before in finishing, with more straight edges as opposed to rounded sides. Accompanied with the easily patinated strap, there is a certain sportiness to the otherwise classical watch. While the triple calendar may be seen as a budget calendar, the overall merit to the watch is its versatility.
Time+Tide
The top 5 Omega James Bond watches of all time as chosen by you
Editor’s note: Earlier this week, we asked a question on Instagram stories, what is your favourite Omega Bond watch from the last 25 years? Imma jump in here just to say, uh, wut? Where is the Spectre Seamaster 300 Limited Edition (my clear favourite Bond watch)? Where is Pierce’s watches? Any of them! It seems you … ContinuedThe post The top 5 Omega James Bond watches of all time as chosen by you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Desert Island Dials with Wei Koh
In episode nine of Ross Povey’s Zoom video interview series, “Desert Island Dials,” where we ask some of our friends from the community what watch they would bring along with them, if they were on a desert island, this time we our own Wei Koh. Wei talks about several watches from his personal collection that many of us may be familiar with as well as his latest pickup, the Tudor Black Bay 58 Navy Blue.
Revolution
Parmigiani Fleurier Launches the Sporty Tonda GT
Parmigiani Fleurier releases its first ever integrated-bracelet sports watch model.
SJX Watches
Business News: James Murdoch to Become Major Shareholder in Baselworld Owner
Having been pummelled by the COVID-19 pandemic and the implosion of Baselworld, the watch fair’s owner MCH Group has just announced a CHF104.5m rescue led by the canton of Basel and James Murdoch. But the crown jewel is not the Baselworld watch and jewellery fair, but Art Basel, which is undoubtedly the prize Mr Murdoch is after. As part of the rescue, the canton of Basel will convert its CHF30m loan to MCH into equity, with the balance being made up of a rights issue priced at a 25% discount to the 30-day average for MCH shares, which hit a peak of CHF80 in 2017 and traded around CHF17 in recent weeks. Through his family investment office Lupa Systems, Mr Murdoch will underwrite the rights issue, subscribing to all rights not taken up by other shareholders. At the same time, the canton of Basel and its regional bank have extended the repayment period for outstanding loans to MCH, while a bond offering is planned in the near future. Beyond shoring up the finances of MCH, the exercise will leaving Mr Murdoch with 30-44% of MCH Group, along with three board seats. Restrictions on shareholder voting rights will also be abolished, removing the outsized voting power of the cantons of Basel and Zurich, once the dominant influences in MCH. A long-term investment Mr Murdoch is the younger son of Rupert Murdoch, perhaps the most powerful figure in the broadcast and news business in the Western world. Recent newspaper reports have said the younger Murdoch was negotiating with MC...
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Rémy Cools Tourbillon Souscription
Featuring a new Tourbillon Souscription as the first commercial watch made by 23 year old watchmaker Rémy Cools - his background & details of the new watch.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Tourbillon Pocket Watches of Urban Jürgensen and Derek Pratt
Originally an 18th century Danish brand, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner (UJS) was resurrected in 1981 by Peter Baumberger (1939-2010), an antique watch dealer turned watchmaker. While the brand’s best-known timepieces were elegantly-styled wristwatches with teardrop lugs, its greatest technical achievements were pocket watches, all of which were built by Derek Pratt (1938-2009), a deeply talented English watchmaker who was a contemporary of George Daniels. As was typical of the era when pocket watches were the preeminent genre of watch collecting – and the tourbillon was the ultimate complication – Pratt’s best work for UJS were his tourbillon pocket watches. Pratt not only built the movements, but also fabricated some of the dials that were decorated in exceptional guilloche. Peter Baumberger. Photo – Dr Helmut Crott The oval pocket watch The pièce de résistance in Pratt’s series of tourbillon pocket watches is no doubt the Ref. 1 “Hommage”, an oval pocket watch featuring a tourbillon with an integrated remontoir d’egalite. Writing in Derek Pratt – Watchmaker, a book dedicated to the watchmaker’s life and works, watch expert and auctioneer Dr Helmut Crott explained the Ref. 1 was originally conceived as a series of five watches for an Asian collector in the late 1980s. But after the first watch was complete, the client cancelled the rest of the order, making it a “financial disaster for Peter [Baumberger]” according to Dr Crott, , a longtime f...
Time+Tide
NEWS: Hublot launch an ecommerce site with a big bang, huge number of references available for purchase now
Adapt or die. You either get with these troubled times, or consign yourself to the pages of history. For watchmakers and retailers alike, or really anyone in the world of horology, this sentiment has never been more real or more confronting. COVID-19 poses a threat to the luxury watch industry that may dwarf even the … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Hublot launch an ecommerce site with a big bang, huge number of references available for purchase now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection
Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390. A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar. Tondagraph GT Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché. Initial thoughts The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions. Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good a...
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New: Blancpain Bathyscaphe Mokarran Limited Edition
Blancpain releases the new Bathyscaphe Mokarran Limited Edition: a special watch dedicated to protecting the great hammerhead shark.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Independents and the Esoteric at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
Taking place on July 10, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X is the one of the first watch auctions in Hong Kong in 2020, a sign of the much-delayed auction calendar due to the pandemic. But the Phillips catalogue is still 269 lots strong, with a little bit of everything. We took a look at some of the notable complicated watches last week, including the magnificent A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph that’s a strong value buy in uber-complications. Now, we’ll take a look at some of the timepieces by independent watchmakers as well as a handful of interesting, esoteric, and well-priced watches. You can find the rest of the catalogue here. Lot 806 – Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” This sits squarely in the category of weird-but-cool watches. Extremely large at 44 mm, with massive lugs and an even larger crown guard, the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” is a dive watch rated to 3,000 m – three-thousand metres, or 9,800 feet – with a sharply finished, tourbillon-equipped movement. The combination is paradoxical, and slightly silly, but the watch has a peculiar charm, no doubt helped by its affordability (with a low estimate a little under US$20,000). Made in 2006, a time when diving tourbillons were fashionable and when Girard-Perregaux was still a family-run firm owned by the Macalusos – the certificate for the watch is signed by the late Luigi “Gino” Macaluso – the Sea Hawk tourbillon was a limited edition of 32 w...
SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces the Type 1 Slim X
Founded only a decade ago, Ressence has already left an indelible impression on watchmaking. Lauded for a design philosophy that is centred on legibility, wearability and intuitive function, the brand’s unusual perspective is thanks to its founder Benoît Mintiens, an industrial designer by profession. To mark its 10th year, Ressence has debuted the Type 1 Slim X, the first of four watches in the commemorative Collection X – “X” being a Roman “10”. Limited to 40 watches, the new watch is essentially identical to the standard Type 1 Slim, but face-lifted with an intriguing dial in a single shade of olive green but finished with contrasting surfaces to achieve a two-tone effect. The remaining Collection X watches will be dressed in a similar shade of green. Initial thoughts I have long been fascinated by Ressence and its watches. The first time I laid eyes on a Ressence, I assumed that it was just an electronic watch with a high-pixel density display; the dial on it was truly flat. When I found out what it was – the effect was due to the oil-filled time display chamber – surprise was an understatement. They are in a class of their own in terms of design, and are, in fact, great examples of “postmodern” mechanical watchmaking. The dark olive dial on the anniversary Type 1 Slim is a first for the brand. The colour is attractive but not as widely used as I would like, with the exception of military-style timepieces, which this is definitely not. To see i...
Time+Tide
Attention all! You can preorder TAG Heuer’s 3 recent limited editions online right now, including Fragment Design and Montreal 160th
So, remember how TAG Heuer pretty much stopped the show at LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week at the start of this year with their stunning Carrera 160 Years Silver? Remember how much you, and pretty much every other person in our community, immediately wanted one, only to be told that all 1860 examples were sold out? Well, … ContinuedThe post Attention all! You can preorder TAG Heuer’s 3 recent limited editions online right now, including Fragment Design and Montreal 160th appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Review: Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) #88
We take a look at the AdC #88, a time-only watch first introduced in 2018 by Barcelona-based independent watchmaker Atelier de Chronométrie.
SJX Watches
Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Nocturne
German independent watchmaker had a hit when it debuted the Kudoke 2 last year. Combining hand-engraved decor with an affordable price tag, the watch was well received by enthusiasts while also enjoying critical acclaim, winning the Petite Aiguille – the category for watches under 10,000 Swiss francs – at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The Kudoke 2 Nocturne is a limited edition variant of the standard model in a run of only 20 pieces, a nod to the 20th year of this century. While the standard version features a silver-and-gold palette, the Nocturne is dressed in shades of grey, both on the dial and movement. Initial thoughts The Kudoke 2 was one of last year’s more compelling watches for me. Not only is it priced well, but the watch has a refined yet German aesthetic that’s pleasing. The watch is clean, with no superfluous elements to distract from its charming simplicity, yet equipped with several attractive classical details. And the Nocturne has a slightly more modern look than the original, despite having the same design. The movement, developed with the help of Habring2, has a unique style and excellent finish, especially considering the price of €8,665, or a little under US$10,000, which is the same price as standard version. With artful hand engraving and an original movement, the watch screams value proposition. A new face Having an identical design as the standard model, the Nocturne retains the clean, symmetrical look of the...
Revolution
Zooming In With Michael Young, Founder of UNDONE Watches
Michael Young, founder of UNDONE watches a little about his background in and outside of the watch industry, what made him establish UNDONE Watches and why UNDONE Watches has slowly become the talk of the collecting community.
Time+Tide
What kind of blue is the new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight actually? 4 side-by-side shots with the Pelagos, Patek, Lange and more…
Well, one of 2020’s worst-kept secrets is out of the bag – Tudor has gone and released a brand new iteration of the best watch it makes. Ladies and gents, introducing the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Ref.M79030b-0001. Now, we’ll skip all the conjecture and polarisation that this watch has already managed to conjure up in … ContinuedThe post What kind of blue is the new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight actually? 4 side-by-side shots with the Pelagos, Patek, Lange and more… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 brings the colour we all need in a dark year at a budget-friendly price
There’s very little that hasn’t been done in watchmaking. That’s part of what makes vintage-inspired new releases so popular among watch enthusiasts, especially for diving styles. Mido’s Ocean Star range has sat in this bracket, earning a good reputation for solidly built and classically handsome dive watches for their affordable cost; however, they toed the … ContinuedThe post The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 brings the colour we all need in a dark year at a budget-friendly price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
John McGonigle Debuts with the Oileán H-B1
Hailing from Ireland’s most famous watchmaking family, John McGonigle is best known for being one half of the two brothers behind McGonigle Watches (and another brother is the chief instructor at the world-class watch school in Cambodia). Having decided to strike out on his own last year – an amicable parting resulting from logistical challenges of working with his brother who is based in Switzerland – Mr McGonigle has just launched his own brand, Oileán, Gaelic for “island”, a nod to his home of Ireland. Pronounced “ill-awn”, the brand is making its debut with the Oileán H-B1, a triple-calendar chronograph powered by a new-old-stock Valjoux 88 movement. John McGonigle Initial thoughts Well regarded by collectors and peers, Mr McGonigle’s first watch under his new brand has a vintage movement inside a titanium case. It’s a manageable 40 mm in diameter, but slightly thick at 14.2 mm high, an inevitable consequence of the Valjoux 88. While the Valjoux 88 is not novel – it was widely used in the past – the calibre has been reworked a high standard. That includes several bridges and steel parts made from scratch, as well as hand finishing of all components. Because it is a triple-calendar chronograph “I’ve tried to apply the same rigour to this watch as I used to for the high complications I worked on in the past,” says Mr McGonigle. Going by Mr McGonigle’s past work it is no doubt done very well. The look is modern – the dial is smoked sa...
Quill & Pad
The Purnell Escape II Double Tourbillon Comes To Life
Purnell’s latest model, Escape II, features two spherical tourbillons developed by Eric Coudray, the definitive expert in the field of three-dimensional multi-axis tourbillons. This is just one example of how the independent brand works with the best of the best in the watch industry to achieve such monumental timepieces. Martin Green reports after visiting the Swiss workshops.