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Results for Tourbillon

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Flying Tourbillon

Alfred Helwig's 1920 tourbillon variant with no upper bridge; the entire cage is visible.

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H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition: A Ceramic Case Changes Everything

Moser's wildest Streamliner yet pairs a flying tourbillon skeleton with a ceramic case, all under the Alpine F1 banner

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39: The Octagon Gets Its Most Serious Movement Yet

Four new calibers in 12 months. The latest drops a flying tourbillon and a micro-rotor into a 39mm Laureato case, and it looks the part.

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Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT Titanio PAM01784: The Softer Side of a Big Complication

A tourbillon, a GMT, and a titanium case walk into a Luminor. The result is more restrained than you'd expect.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS Mar 27, 2023

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS honours the Alps further with a Monte Rosa inspired dial. The calibre L.U.C 96.40-L is only 3.3mm thick, with the watch totalling 8mm. It’s also the second of Chopard’s movements to be granted a Geneva Seal, the first being the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. If you want to see … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph SLGC001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Mar 27, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph SLGC001

Grand Seiko made a big splash at last year’s Watches & Wonders with the launch of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, the brand’s first complicated mechanical wristwatch. For 2023, the brand is back with another first-time complication that will likely be one of the most talked-about watches of the show, the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. The first purely mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph ever, the Tentagraph is a high-spec sports chronograph that fills a hole in the Grand Seiko portfolio. “Tentagraph” is a portmanteau of the four key features of the watch: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and of course, the chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph is an important watch for Grand Seiko that enables the brand to stand toe to toe with Rolex, Omega, Zenith, Breitling, and other stalwarts in the popular category of mechanical sports chronograph. Not only is the category a hitherto untapped commercial opportunity for Grand Seiko, it is an opportunity for the brand to demonstrate its technical know-how and ambition. In this context, I would have expected the brand to release an integrated chronograph movement, perhaps based on the 6S movement family. But Grand Seiko has chosen to build a modular chronograph calibre based on the 9SA5, the flagship Grand Seiko automatic movement introduced in 2020, signalling the brand’s commitment to the calibre and its proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. My colleague Richard Lee notes that the 9S...

How The World's Most Accurate Watches Are Made Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 24, 2023

How The World's Most Accurate Watches Are Made

Nearly every advance in watchmaking technology has been in the service of increased utility and functionality - even inventions that we now consider entirely luxurious affectations. The minute repeater, for example, was invented so a watch wearer could audibly check the time in the dark in the days before luminous treatment on dials. Even the tourbillon began its existence as a device for enhancing timekeeping accuracy, countering the effects of gravity on a pocketwatch’s movement. Thus it should come as no surprise that as the world entered the electronic era in the mid-20th century, watchmakers would attempt to harness the new technologies to improve the precision - and hence the desirability - of their products. Read on as we trace the evolution of timekeeping technology all the way up through today’s most accurate watches.  Birth of the Chronometer Not long after the tracking of time migrated from giant clocks in the town square to portable devices carried in waistcoat pockets, and eventually worn on wrists (click here for a brief history of watches), the need for a standard of dependable accuracy in these mechanical timekeepers became evident. Hence the establishment of standards for which a timepiece could be deemed a "chronometer." The classical definition of a chronometer goes all the way back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to det...

Highlights: Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5016 Mar 23, 2023

Highlights: Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Having covered highlights from independent watchmakers at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on April 5. We look at eight notable lots. Some, like the platinum Patek Philippe ref. 5016 with its minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, are amongst the most valuable in the sale. But the catalogue also has value buys, notably including offerings from jewellers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue can be accessed here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5016P Lot 2137: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux One of the most poetic timepieces by the Parisian jeweller, the Pont des Amoureux was a watch that helped make Van Cleef & Arpels as a watchmaker. This watch is the original and cleanest version of the model, which was discontinued in 2019 and replaced by a revised version. The watch is all about a uniquely whimsical depiction of the passing of time. A double retrograde display takes the form of two figures: a lady with an umbrella indicates the hours whilst a gentleman marks the minutes. The two figures move towards one another over the course of 12 hours, until they meet and “kiss” on top of the bridge that overlooks the Seine river – this happens twice in a day, at midday and midnight. The dial is executed in grisaille enamel, a meticulous process that dates back to the 16th century. The techn...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille Mar 18, 2023

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Beginning in early April, Sotheby’s spring sale season in Hong Kong also marks the auctioneer’s 50th anniversary in Asia. One of the headline sales is Important Watches I, a 210-lot sale that spans notable complications, artisanal decoration, and of course, independent watchmaking. The indie line up includes heavy hitters from the likes of F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and Philippe Dufour, but also a few potential value buys such as the Christophe Claret Blackjack 21. And in the mix are some surprises, like the FVF Tourbillon Superligero. The auction takes place on April 5, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2101: Gérald Genta Fantasy Retro Mickey Mouse in 18k white gold Gérald Genta was the first watch brand to place cartoon character in high-end watches, well before it became a fad amongst luxury watchmakers. The Fantasy collection depicted various Disney characters, usually combined with retrograde complications. Such watches are common enough that a few appear every auction season, but almost always in steel or occasionally yellow gold. This example, surprisingly, is entirely in 18k white gold, case and bracelet, making it very uncommon. While it will pass for steel at a distance, the heft of the case and bracelet is a giveaway.  The case is 36 mm, compact by today’s standards but the typical size for a men’s watch in the 1990s and early 2000s. And the dial is mother of pearl – Genta was a pioneer in exotic dia...

Culture Of Time: Jay-Z Wearing A Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To 1931 Reverso At Carnegie Hall Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute Mar 17, 2023

Culture Of Time: Jay-Z Wearing A Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To 1931 Reverso At Carnegie Hall

Jay-Z and his watches.  Historically, he's been an AP man.  He even had a limited edition watch created in his honor, and donated his personal Audemars Piguet Las Vegas Tourbillon to charity, which ended up selling for $220,000 to this man.  Then, with the release of Watch The Throne, the world heard him say "New Watch Alert: HUBLOT"  and he can be seen wearing a Hublot Classic Fusion in the video.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Art, Desk Display, and Watch Winder All-In-One, A Collab X11 Duffle from 1733 x Huckberry, Talking Taste with Takeharu Sate, & More Worn & Wound
Mar 11, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Art, Desk Display, and Watch Winder All-In-One, A Collab X11 Duffle from 1733 x Huckberry, Talking Taste with Takeharu Sate, & More

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Orbit Winder Co. Art, Watch Winder & Desk Display All In One Via IFLW As far as watch accessories go, straps, travel cases and storage solutions are usually what takes up our entire supplemental horological budget. It’s not a stretch to even throw watch books and custom watch art into the mix. Let’s face it, a watch winder is probably the last thing you’re thinking about purchasing, if at all. Via IFLW Rarely do you see a watch winder that actually looks visually appealing. Typically it’s just a lazily designed compartment that houses a rotating watch holder. You might as well just have a nice looking watch box and when you feel like wearing a particular watch, pick it up, and be the human watch winder. But the folks over at Orbit Winder Co. might have an intriguing winder that could potentially change our minds. Via IFLW Say hello to the Orbit Winder – a cleverly designed piece of moving art that marries the hypnotizing movement of a tourbillon with the functionality of a winder. The Orbit Winder houses a single watch at its center, and once activated, ...

Jacob & Co. Introduces a Roulette Automaton Watch SJX Watches
Franck Muller Las Vegas which instead Mar 1, 2023

Jacob & Co. Introduces a Roulette Automaton Watch

Jacob & Co. already has a roulette complication in its catalogue inside the Astronomia Casino, a variant of its signature watch. Now the jeweller has condensed the concept into the Casino Tourbillon, which does away with the orbital carousel to focus on the roulette automaton, although it still conceals a flying tourbillon on the back. Initial thoughts The Casino Tourbillon is very much a Jacob & Co. watch with its exuberant style and complication – but it is slightly more restrained in design than the brand’s usual offerings. While it’s far from a low-key watch with its 44 mm diameter and over-16mm height, it is modest for a Jacob & Co. watch. The roulette complication is interesting and smartly executed, though not exactly new. It is essentially a more sophisticated version of the Franck Muller Las Vegas, which instead relied on a simple execution made up of a fixed wheelhead and freely-spinning pointer hand. Priced at US$280,000, the  Casino Tourbillon is pricey. Although the dial construction is complex, the roulette automaton is relatively straightforward, as is the flying tourbillon. It is, however, unique in today’s market. While casino-inspired complications were once popular (after the Franck Muller Las Vegas became a bestseller), they are uncommon today. So for the high roller who wants a novel casino-themed complication, this is probably it. Game of chance While Jacob & Co.’s watches are usually over the top, the Casino Tourbillon is relatively clean...

Mothers Of Invention: Behind The Lens With Invention Pieces 1 And 2 By Greubel Forsey - Reprise Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Reprise GaryG was delighted Feb 28, 2023

Mothers Of Invention: Behind The Lens With Invention Pieces 1 And 2 By Greubel Forsey - Reprise

GaryG was delighted to take possession of a Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1 with its inclined double tourbillon, while a good friend of his replied in kind with a purchase of the quadruple-tourbillon Invention Piece 2. Ever since, he has been dying to get these two gorgeous monsters side by side in the light tent. And the time has finally come!

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Ulysse Nardin Blast, Blancpain, and our NOW Buying Guide Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Blancpain Feb 17, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Ulysse Nardin Blast, Blancpain, and our NOW Buying Guide

TGIF! But, before you gear up for your weekend fun, here are some highlights from this week – along with a reminder that now is the time to pick up our NOW Magazine. Ulysse Nardin drops a new Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold 45mm 18K rose gold and PVD blue titanium faceted case inspired by … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Ulysse Nardin Blast, Blancpain, and our NOW Buying Guide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Universelle SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 3, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Universelle

Undoubtedly the flagship of its recent new launches, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle is the brand’s most complicated wristwatch in recent years – or perhaps ever. A project that began in 2016, the uber-complication rooted in history: it is a tribute to L’Universelle, the grand complication pocket watch from 1899 made by AP for German watchmaker Union. But the watch simultaneously pushes the brand’s modern-day watchmaking to the limit, particularly in terms of miniaturising highly complex mechanisms. The Universelle is available in two guises, the open dial above and the solid dial pictured further up Officially one of the brand’s Research and Development timepieces – the model is also known as the RD#4 – the Universelle is an exercise in combining into a single wristwatch all the traditional mechanisms that constitute a grand complication, and then some – perpetual calendar, rattrapante chronograph with flyback, tourbillon, and grande et petite sonnerie with minute repeater. L’Universelle on display in the Audemars Piguet Museum Initial thoughts An assuming name that means little to anyone who doesn’t understand the historical inspiration, Universelle is a horological behemoth that captures AP’s industrial and mechanical capability. Though it has a highly modern design, the Universelle harks back to a bygone era of high watchmaking that prized highly complicated watches incorporating as many features as feasible into a (barely) wearable...

Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? Also, a Ceramic Big Bang with a Rhino on the Dial Worn & Wound
Hublot Asks Why Settle Jan 12, 2023

Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? Also, a Ceramic Big Bang with a Rhino on the Dial

Yesterday, Blake took you through all the details of Hublot’s latest reinterpretation of their Classic Fusion with the updated Classic Fusion Original. For the Hublot historians out there (are you out there?), this was surely a welcome sight, as it calls back to the earliest days of the brand when a luxury watch on a rubber strap was a truly transgressive idea. We’ve come a long way since then, and so has Hublot. The brand has had ups and downs with the watch community (to the say the least), but in recent years they’ve leaned into experimentation with materials (especially colored ceramics and sapphire) that have gotten the attention of open minded and adventurous collectors and enthusiasts, while making watches like the Classic Fusion Original feel almost sleepy by comparison (sorry, Classic Fusion Original). Hublot’s latest envelope pushing novelties are insane in the way only modern Hublot can pull off, and while they likely won’t find a home in the watch box of any Worn & Wound staffers anytime soon, they’re too crazy not to share.  First up, a watch in the same vein as my beloved Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM. This tennis ball colored, translucent tourbillon uses the same HUB6035 automatic tourbillon movement as the purple version released last year, and fills out the same enormous 44mm Big Bang form factor, but uses a slightly different synthetic sapphire material in the case construct...

LVMH Watch Week: Hublot revitalises a classic and introduces some bold evolutions Time+Tide
Hublot revitalises Jan 12, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: Hublot revitalises a classic and introduces some bold evolutions

Hublot is kicking off 2023 with a big bang, debuting a brightly hued tourbillon in an exotic new material. An OG classic makes its return, now in new case materials and a wide range of size choices. A bold new chronograph looks and does good, created to benefit endangered wildlife. LVMH Watch Week is upon … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Hublot revitalises a classic and introduces some bold evolutions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: The Grönefeld 1941 Principia Special Edition for Sincere Fine Watches Deployant
Grönefeld 1941 Principia Special Edition Dec 5, 2022

Review: The Grönefeld 1941 Principia Special Edition for Sincere Fine Watches

Grönefeld – managed by brothers Bart and Tim Grönefeld – is a household name in high-end independent watchmaking. The brand, based in the Netherlands, is known for its contemporary design, immaculate finissage and technical complications. For a long while, watches with technical complications such as the tourbillon, remontoire and deadbeat seconds were the only normRead More

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5004J-017 “Michael Ovitz” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5004J-017 “Michael Ovitz” Nov 26, 2022

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5004J-017 “Michael Ovitz”

Going on the block at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe ref. 5004J “Michael Ovitz”. It’s lot 2520 and one of the watches from The Triazza Collection, an impressive accumulation of watches owned by a prominent Hong Kong businessman. The collection is heavy on Patek Philippe. Amongst the other timepieces in the collection is the Patek Philippe tourbillon pocket watch that won first prize at the Geneva Observatory in 1931 (which is also being offered in the same auction) and the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 that once belonged to Eric Clapton (but is not for sale, yet). “MSO” – Michael Steven Ovitz The “MSO” initials on this ref. 5004J instantly reveal it was one of the many, I would two dozen at least, special-order watches that Patek Philippe made for Michael Ovitz starting in 2011. Often described as a “super agent”, Mr Ovitz cofounded Creative Artists Agency (CAA), once the dominant talent agency in Hollywood. After a short-lived spell at Disney, he’s now known for his impressive art collection, some of which is on show in his equally impressive home in California. Though the reason behind Patek Philippe’s accommodation of Mr Ovitz is not publicly known, industry lore has it that the watches were an expression of gratitude by the Sterns after Mr Ovitz assisted them in a significant way. Mr Ovitz has only commented on these watches publicly once, in a 2021 article in Robb Report: “It was the first time Ovitz, who has be...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 23, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction

Having looked at some of the most fascinating pocket watches and clocks on offer at Christie’s Important Watches auction that happens soon in Hong Kong, we now turn to attention to the genre that many collectors are now pursuing, independent watchmaking. As expected, amongst the offerings going on the block are works from the big names like F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and H. Moser & Cie. But beyond the usual suspects, the sale also encompasses hidden gems, like the highly complicated tourbillon perpetual calendar by Gerald Genta presented as a Cartier Pasha. The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here. It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here. The fully-engraved Gerald Genta movement inside the Cartier Pasha Lot 2382: Cartier Pasha Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Considered one of the most successful watch designers of the 20th century – though his most influential designs were for Audemars Piguet and the Patek Philippe rather than his own – Gerald Genta was also responsible for some of the most complicated watches of the 1980s and 1990s when his namesake brand was at its peak. In fact, the Genta brand was so proficient at making highly complex watches that Cartier tapped Gerald Genta as a movement supplier for its top-of-the-line complications in the 19...

Auction Watch: Pocket Watches and Clocks at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos Hermès Introduced Nov 20, 2022

Auction Watch: Pocket Watches and Clocks at Christie’s Hong Kong

Christie’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is a double-session event on November 27 that will be headlined by the first installment of The Triazza Collection, a remarkable accumulation of watches owned by a prominent Hong Kong businessman that includes the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in platinum (which is not going under the hammer for now). Amongst the important timepieces in the collection that are going on the block this season are several pocket watches, including two masterpieces from Patek Philippe, one an observatory tourbillon from 1924 and the other a ref. 605 HU world time with a cloisonné dial. The ref. 605 HU world time pocket watch Beyond the Triazza offerings, the rest of the 218-lot catalogue also includes other significant interesting pocket watches, including several possibly unique by Patek Philippe with affordable estimates, including one relief engraved with a 16th century sailing ship. Below we take a look at a some of the notable pocket watches (and one clock) in the auction. The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here. It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lot 2387 – Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos Hermès Introduced in 2013, the Atmos Hermès was a collaboration between Jaeger-LeCoultre and the Parisian leather goods ho...

Interview: Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Recently Oct 31, 2022

Interview: Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin

Recently in Singapore for The Anatomy of Beauty, an exhibition dedicated to Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking over the decades, Christian Selmoni has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the brand. Now the brand’s Style & Heritage Director, Mr Selmoni joined Vacheron Constantin (VC) in January 1992. His tenure of almost 31 years has given him an innate sense of the brand and its philosophy as well as a wide-ranging perspective on its timepieces over the years. We had a chat with Mr Selmoni to hear more about the brand’s most interesting creations, ranging from the 22”’ observatory-certified tourbillon movements of the 1920s to the modern-day Celestia grand complication. The interview was edited for length and clarity. SJX: The Singapore exhibition has a good selection of the complicated, historical, and artisanal. What’s your favourite out of all that? Christian Selmoni (CS): It’s a tricky question, but one that immediately comes to my mind – the 22”’ tourbillon because I love this this calibre. VC made the movement in the 1920s; around 20 movements were sent for observatory contests. Once the contests were over, the movements were put in a tray somewhere. Then at the beginning of the 1990s, we made six or seven pocket watches with 22”’ tourbillon movements that had been totally refurbished and decorated. They were made for John Asprey in London. All of the [Asprey pocket watches] were unique, either in material or decoration, and some were set with ge...