Two Broke Watch Snobs
Introducing The Aquastar Benthos 500 Founder’s Edition Chronograph
A first look at the brand's latest vintage revival-the Aquastar Benthos 500 Founder's Edition Chronograph. Get pricing, photos, and specs.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Worn & Wound
Aquastar’s New Benthos 500 Founder’s Edition is the Release Dive Watch Fans Have Been Waiting For
If you’ve been following the reestablishment of Aquastar over the last few years, today marks an important milestone in the brand’s new chapter. After a series of well regarded divers offering takes on both Aquastar’s actual history and a sort of imagined version of it, we’ve finally come to the Benthos, perhaps the brand’s most famous watch, at least among the cult of divers and sports watch fanatics who have always held the brand in such high regard. This release, the Benthos 500 Founder’s Edition, very much feels like the watch that Aquastar has been building toward for the last few years, and it’s quite impressive in the metal. First, a little background on the Benthos for those unfamiliar with its history. The Benthos was introduced in 1970 as a diving chronograph, but it uses one of the most uncommon executions of what is a fairly common complication that we can recall. This is a monopusher chronograph with a centrally mounted minute hand, and no chronograph seconds hands. That means that when you activate the chronograph, the user has the strange experience of wondering if anything just happened. But wait a minute, and you’ll see that minute hand tick over to the first minute marker, and the functionality here becomes a little more clear. For most divers who would need to engage a chronograph underwater, it’s the minutes that truly matter, and a chronograph like this gives you exactly what you need, and none of what you don’t. The other piece...
Quill & Pad
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Split-Seconds Chronograph Reviewed by Tim Mosso
The Tonda PF Split-Seconds Chronograph is the ultimate expression of Parmigiani’s hit watch. And in Tim Mosso's opinion, it’s magnificent!
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 on Show in Geneva
Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe is exhibiting the year’s Rare Handcrafts its Geneva Salon from April 13 to 27, alongside the final few days of Watches & Wonders. Aside from the 82 watches and clocks – the largest Rare Handcrafts collection ever presented – the engravers and enamellers will be on hand to demonstrate their craft. The timepieces in the exhibition, comprising seven Dome Clocks, three table clocks, nine pocket watches, and 43 wristwatches, showcase the brand’s mastery of traditional techniques, ranging from the familiar like cloisonné and champlevé, to those less often encountered in watchmaking, such as wood marquetry and Longwy enamel on faience. As has long been the case for the Rare Handcrafts collection, all of the timepieces on show are available in theory, but typically allocated to the best clients. The Rare Handcrafts collection will be exhibited in three sections, each grouped according to the particular timepiece form. Upon entering the Salon, guests will encounter a dozen Calatrava wristwatches with enamel dials bearing the constellations of the zodiac, executed in a range of techniques, namely grisaille, cloisonné, and paillonné. The Napoleon room The exhibition continues into the Napoleon room facing Lake Geneva. Here are the watches inspired by nature, including the pocket watch ref. 995/143G-001 “Portrait of a White Egret” with a wood marquetry dial. The ref. 995/143G-001 with its matching stand The last section ...
Fratello
Introducing: The Orient Star M Collections - A Different Take On Japanese Top-Shelf Horology
If you’re already into watches, Japanese brands have a different design mindset and offer big value. Orient Star is a brand you’ll think of if you’re a seasoned watch geek like me, especially if you actually remember watch forums (ask your dad or an uncle). Most brands have a lot to offer, but with microbrands […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M Collections - A Different Take On Japanese Top-Shelf Horology to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Ochs und Junior Ochs Line Day/Night, Oechslin’s Astronomical Sleeper
When you think about astronomical watches, timekeepers that are capable of displaying complex indications related to the position of the moon, the sun, the length of days or the equation of time, you might have in mind watches with fairly loaded dials and an array of star-inspired textures. There’s surely nothing wrong with that, but […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Introduces A Surprise Black Bay Chronograph In Pink
Tudor has just announced a new Black Bay Chronograph with a very limited pink dial for 2024. Se specs, photos, our analysis, and more.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Vieren Gold Waves, The Latest From The Woman-Founded Brand Bringing Glamour To Gender-Neutral Watchmaking
Diving into the Swiss microbrand with a penchant for rectangular timepieces, and exploring the latest addition to its Stereo capsule collection – Gold Waves.
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces the C63 Valour Chronograph
Christopher Ward is expanding its military watch line, with the new C63 Valour chronograph. Past Christopher Ward military watches have paid tribute to the British Army, Navy, and Air Force. The C63 Valour is the first watch in Christopher Ward’s lineup dedicated to all three branches. In creating the C63 Valour, watch designer Will Brackfield turned to “the British Military quartz watches of the 1980s, with applied and polished numerals.” The C63 Valour similarly features applied numerals and an applied logo in steel that pop against the black dial. In military watches, legibility is key, and it’s clear the C63 Valour draws on pilot watches in particular with its large Arabic numerals. It’s a minimalist watch face, with a lot of information laid out very simply, making it easy to read and a pleasure to look at. Lumed hour and minute hands make sure that it’s easy to read even at night. The three branches are represented on the watch in the steel subdials, which feature a light blue hand for the Air Force, a dark blue hand for the Navy, and a red hand for the Army. The caseback also features the three heraldic crests of the military branches, along with the queen’s crown in honor of the late Queen Elizabeth II. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case with a lug-to-lug of 45.8mm. Inside is a battery-powered movement with a lifespan of three years and accuracy of plus or minus 10 seconds a year. Fitting for a watch that also pays tribute to the Royal Nav...
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Limited Production Black Bay Chrono “Pink”
In a surprise launch just before Watches & Wonders 2024, Tudor has just revealed the Black Bay Chrono “Pink”. Departing from the brand’s typical no-nonsense and occasionally military aesthetic, the new chronograph is based on a watch created for Jay Chou, the Taiwanese musician who’s one of the biggest stars in Asia. Though not a limited edition, Tudor states “few of [Black Bay Chrono “Pink”] will ever be made”. Initial thoughts Tudor’s watches are almost uniformly good value, regardless of model, so I am a fan. But most have either a sporting instrument or military equipment, which is to say the variety in design is limited (save for a handful of unpublicised special runs). It’s difficult to describe most Tudor watches as fun, which this certainly is. The Black Bay Chrono “Pink” is appealing because, well, it’s pink. The colour instantly sets it apart from the average Tudor watch, while also having being a subtle reference to historical models. And of course it is the value proposition that a Tudor always is, particularly with the high-spec Breitling-derived MT5813 movement. I like the watch, but I am unsure about the “5-link” bracelet (that is clearly Jubilee inspired), particularly on a watch of this size. Still, it’s a compelling enough proposition I would buy one given the opportunity. Jay Chou Otherwise serious looking This is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono that is ordinarily a low key watch, available either as a “panda” o...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Tudor Shocks Us All With The New Black Bay Chrono ‘Pink’
A day after announcing a partnership with Inter Miami (and days before W&W;), Tudor doubles down on the colorway.
Deployant
New: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42MM
Still kicking yourself that you didn't managed to get the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Act 1s and the BlancpainXSwatch Fifty Fathoms isn't your cup of tea as it's seems too plasticky? Enter the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42MM.
Worn & Wound
Tudor Surprises with a Pink Black Bay Chrono
A surprise release from Tudor this morning, less than two weeks ahead of Watches & Wonders. The Black Bay Chrono “Pink” is a very limited and very pink iteration of the brand’s Black Bay Chronograph, and coincides with the recent announcement of Tudor’s partnership with Inter Miami CF, the Major League Soccer Club owned in part by David Beckham (who is, of course, a longtime Tudor ambassador). Pink is the color most associated with the club, hence the pink dial for this release. On the surface, what we have here is quite simple: it’s a pink version of the Black Bay Chronograph that we’ve become familiar with over the last few years. Like the other watches in the collection, it’s a panda style dial, with black subdials complementing the pink main dial, framed by a black tachymeter bezel. The specs of this chronograph are exactly the same as other Black Bay Chronos, with a steel case measuring 41mm and water resistance to 200 meters. Tudor fans (and watch enthusiasts with great memories) will immediately link this watch to another, somewhat lesser known watch in Tudor’s collection, the Black Bay Chrono Dark. This watch was also made for a professional sports team (the New Zealand All Blacks, a rugby team) and has been made in very limited quantities since its unveiling (which was also a surprise) in 2019. The point here is that Tudor just does this sometimes, dropping a surprise chronograph outside the bounds of a big trade show, in association with one o...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Chronoswiss Strike Two Series with Horizontal Regulator Layout
The allure of contemporary Chronoswiss designs is palpable to watch enthusiasts, as evidenced by the plethora of limited-edition models marked as sold out in the company’s online catalogue, which offers both cutting-edge models and classic designs in peaceful coexistence. The new Strike Two series unveils yet another bridge between the brand’s esteemed past, exemplified by […]
Time+Tide
The Ball Roadmaster Marine GMT is a tough titanium worldly beater watch
Welcoming those who crave the hyper-masculine, stern and tough, the Ball Roadmaster Marine GMT is a tough titanium watch to look into.The post The Ball Roadmaster Marine GMT is a tough titanium worldly beater watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Stunning Angelus Instrument de Vitesse Monopusher Chronograph
Angelus initiated its La Fabrique collection last year, with the idea to revive heritage pieces and pay homage to iconic designs (and we know that Angelus has a lot of them…) The journey began with the launch of the Chronographe Médical, a purpose-built doctor’s watch inspired by a 1960s chronograph and developed in collaboration with […]
SJX Watches
The First Overseas Stop for Grand Seiko “Alive in Time Through the Five Senses”
In its first stop outside of Japan, Alive in Time Through the Five Senses just concluded in Singapore, with other cities possibly being on the cards. Conceived to present the spirit of the brand by engaging all five senses, the exhibition was made up of five sections: sight, sound, touch, taste, and smell. The exhibition began with sight, where guests were greeted by watchmakers Satoshi Hiraga and Ikukiyo Komatsu, representing the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi and Shinshu Watch Studio respectively. The former specialises in mechanical movements, while the latter is responsible for Spring Drive, so each watchmaker demonstrated his speciality: Mr Hiraga worked on a 9S automatic calibre while Mr Komatsu on a 9R Spring Drive movement. Also on display was the third Grand Seiko movement family, the 9F Quartz. The visual transitioned to the aural in the sound section where visitors were treated to an immersive film experience depicting the 340 parts of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon. Despite the impressive mechanical complexity of the Kodo, one of the distinguishing elements of the movement is its 16-beat rhythm resulting from the overlapping ticks and tocks of both the escapement and the remontoir. The exhibition continued in the area dedicated to touch simulating a precisely prepared Zen garden. Guests could try various Grand Seiko models – and take the obligatory wrist shot against the tranquil beauty of the garden. The taste and smell area concluded the experience with...
Fratello
Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph
The style and fashion trends of the 1960s can mostly only be described as regrettable in these times of image consciousness and scrutiny on social media. Fashion faux pas like bell-bottomed trousers, tie-dye, and platform shoes have caused more than a slight blush to the cheeks of those who championed them back in the Swinging […] Visit Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Of 2024 So Far
Hello, and welcome to a rather unruly episode of Fratello Talks. It’s a Friday afternoon at Fratello HQ, and Nacho, Lex, and Thomas gather around the mics to list some of the best watches of 2024 so far. The guys have all picked three of their favorite releases from this first quarter and three additional […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Of 2024 So Far to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Auctions: Now’s Your Chance To Buy A Watch From The Estate Of Tony Bennett
Watches given by Sinatra and Gaga represent some of the crooner's relationships over the years.
Worn & Wound
Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Spec Snobbery
If I were to make a gross oversimplification of watches, I’d say they are about three things: provenance, design and specs. The first two are relatively straightforward: Who made a watch, and what does it look like? There are endless rabbit holes to go down with each, and fellow enthusiasts welcome anyone looking to join the conversations. That’s good news for those of us that long ago lost the privilege to ramble about Hans Wilsdorf at the dinner table, and have a limited number of times we can say “concentric circles” before our non-watch friends tune out. But in my initial years of collecting, I shied away from conversations of provenance and design, instead favoring talk of specs. Above all else, specs were what sold me. It’s a trend I’ve noticed fellow enthusiasts follow, which makes sense. Specs are tangible. They are indisputable facts on paper that immediately give an idea of how a watch will wear based on its dimensions, what its beat rate will be, how much abuse its crystal can take, and at what unnecessary depth of water it could out-live its wearer. With some welcome influence from my favorite YouTube reviewers, it was easy as a new collector to discern what specs were considered acceptable by the larger enthusiast community. While we may never agree on which case diameter constitutes the ideal “sweet spot” (but we all know it’s 36-38mm) or what movement is best, one specification seemed to have near universal support in the comment sections: ...
Worn & Wound
Five Excellent Vintage-Inspired Watches For Modern Collectors
It’s hard to overstate the role vintage watches have played in the rise of watch enthusiasm over the last few years. Watch brands continue to tap into their archives as they reimagine yesterday’s hits with today’s modern technology. That combination of classic design with robust engineering is one of the reasons retro-inspired watches continue to be so popular, and today we take a look at five examples of vintage-inspired watches done right. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. It’s hard to overstate the role vintage watches have played in the rise of watch enthusiasm over the last few years. Watch brands continue to tap into their archives as they reimagine yesterday’s hits with today’s modern technology. That combination of classic design with robust engineering is one of the reasons retro-inspired watches continue to be so popular, and today we take a look at five examples of vintage-inspired watches done right. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. The post Five Excellent Vintage-Inspired Watches For Modern Collectors appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
First Look - New Pastel Colours for the Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm
Ben Küffer hit the ground running with the launch of his start-up watch brand Norqain in 2018. Thanks to a good network of family and friends associated with the watch industry, Ben counted on the support of his father, Marc Küffer, who owned and managed a prominent Swiss private label manufacturer, Ted Schneider, a member […]
Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g spills the secret sauce of their success
Editor’s note: Back in January, many of you joined us in our Time+Tide Discovery Studio in Melbourne to celebrate our tenth anniversary. It was a week full of celebrations, events, and even three exclusive launches from three of the most respected microbrands in the game: Furlan Marri, Baltic, and Studio Underd0g. Unfortunately, not everyone was … ContinuedThe post Studio Underd0g spills the secret sauce of their success appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Bianchet Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT
In 2021, Bianchet, an independent, family-owned and family-operated brand, unveiled its inaugural creation, the B1.618 Tourbillon Openworked. This limited edition timepiece established the foundation for Bianchet’s design language and ethos. Building upon this foundation, the brand introduced subsequent releases, including the B1.618 Grande Date and, for this year, the B1.618 Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT. True […]
Revolution
Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement with Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Girard-Perregaux
In 2013, Girard-Perregaux debuted the acclaimed Constant Escapement L.M., earning the prestigious ‘Aiguille D’Or’ at GPHG, which is a mechanism that delivered remarkable rate stability irrespective of the available energy. Wei and Girard-Perregaux CEO Patrick Pruniaux explore the Maison’s latest innovation, the Neo Constant Escapement. Enhancing the already remarkable Constant Escapement, it features aesthetic and […]
SJX Watches
The Ulysse Nardin Freak - The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part II
Having explored the origins of the Ulysse Nardin Freak, from its concept by Carole Forestier Kasapi to its realisation by Dr Ludwig Oechslin, we now turn to the Freak’s more recent innovations, starting with the Dual Ulysse Escapement. [This story explains the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement of the Freak. Part I, covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and innovative escapement. Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] A new and improved version of the Dual Direct escapement in the original 2001 Freak, the Dual Ulysse made its debut in 2005 inside the Freak 28’000 V/H, colloquially known as the Freak 2. Slightly larger than the original model but otherwise very similar, the Freak 2 operated at 28,000 beats per hour (4 Hz), a higher frequency than the 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) of the original Freak. One of the factors which made possible the increase in frequency was the revised escapement christened the Dual Ulysse Escapement. A diagram showing the key parts of the Dual Ulysse Escapement. Image – Ulysse Nardin The Dual Ulysse Escapement Another creation of Dr Oechslin’s, the Dual Ulysse departs from the classical natural escapement à la Breguet that the original Dual Direct Escapement was based on, but it still bears some resemblance to its...
Worn & Wound
Seiko Launches a New Crop of Astrons for a Big Anniversary
This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Seiko brand. Now I know, you’re saying, “Hey Griffin, didn’t Seiko celebrate its 110th anniversary last year?” Well, yes. And no. It’s complicated, okay? Alright, it’s not that complicated. The brand that would become Seiko was founded in 1881 by Kintarō Hattori. They released their first pocket watch - the Timekeeper - in 1895 and they followed that up with their first wristwatch - the Laurel - in 1913. Last year’s celebrations marked the 110th anniversary of that watch. This year’s centenary celebration commemorates the first time the name Seiko was used on a watch dial, something which didn’t happen until 1924, and Seiko has promised nine limited edition watches as part of that celebration. True to that effort, we’ve already seen a recreation of the 1924 Seiko watch released as part of the Presage lineup, alongside special editions of the 62MAS-inspired Marinemaster and Prospex divers, and a new version of the Speedtimer. Now Seiko is bringing the Astron to the party and releasing a brand new model with a never-before-seen combination of features and complications. Leading the pack is the aforementioned SSH156 Astron GPS Solar Kintarō Hattori Limited Edition, a bold black and gold-tone titanium multi-time zone chronograph with an integrated bracelet and full Astron Solar capability. The watch is powered by the all-new Caliber 5X83 movement, the first Seiko Astron movement to include a subdial at ...
Fratello
The March 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Apollo 9
From March 3rd to March 13th, 1969, the Apollo 9 mission took place. On board were astronauts James McDivitt, David Scott, and Russell “Rusty” Schweickart. The mission’s goal was to have a flight with the full Apollo spacecraft, meaning that the command and service module (CSM) and lunar module (LM) were there. But this mission […] Visit The March 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Apollo 9 to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - Czapek Brings The First Antarctique in Gold with the Mount Erebus (Incl. Video)
Back in 2020, Czapek launched its Antarctique, the brand’s first luxury sports watch that simultaneously featured the brand’s first in-house calibre. The design followed the codes of what a luxury sports watch is said to be, with a shaped case, integrated bracelet and a textured dial. But Czapek being Czapek, it didn’t cut any corners. […]