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Tudor Black Bay GMT 79830RB Review WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay GMT 79830RB Jul 10, 2019

Tudor Black Bay GMT 79830RB Review

Introduced in Baselworld 2018, the Black Bay GMT is a new classic and bold timepiece by Tudor. This model is Tudor’s answer to GMT watches for world travellers. The Black Bay GMT owes its heritage to the Black Bay Divers watches of the 1950s. In 1954, Tudor released the first reference 7922. This was the first divers watch in the long line of legible, robust and ergonomic divers watches released by Tudor.  It was the famous American Architect Louis Sullivan that said that “according to whom, the form of an object must follow its function”. The early Tudor diver models perfectly resembled this saying as they laid down the foundations of aesthetic and technical watches that are ideal for divers. Since the first launch of the reference 7922, Tudor’s diver watches have had a constant improvement for sixty years. Each new model that was released by the brand would see unanimous recognition from professionals, such as some of the greatest military navies in the world.   The GMT function in the Tudor Black Bay GMT establishes local time without losing track of time in other time zones. The additional time zone is indicated by the red angular “snowflake” hand as described by Tudor. The characteristic snowflake hand is also used for the hour and constant second hand. This snowflake design first appeared in Tudor’s catalogue in 1969, which shows that although modernising the watch, Tudor still sticks to their heritage.  The bi-directional rotatable bezel on the Tudo...

Hands-On: Genus GNS 1 Wristwatch SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Jul 9, 2019

Hands-On: Genus GNS 1 Wristwatch

While it’s a new brand that just made its debut, Genus is founded on the watchmaking talent of an industry insider who has spent a lifetime working on complications. Its first watch is the GNS 1 that tells the time with an ultra-exotic complication with the minutes travelling across the dial like a train. Conceptually the GNS 1 harks back to the burst of creativity that started in the early 2000s, when watchmakers went all out with imaginative complications to display the hours and minutes. This was the heyday of the Harry Winston Opus series and the birth of brands like MB&F; and Urwerk. The brand Genus was founded by entrepreneur Catherine Henry and Sébastien Billières, founder of GMTI, a specialist watchmaking workshop. The son of a watchmaker, Mr Billières started his career at Roger Dubuis in 1999, followed by a stint at Urwerk. In 2011, he set up GMTI, which specialises in primarily in assembly and servicing of complicated movements for major watch brands. Now staffed by 25 watchmakers, GMTI’s repertoire is diverse, ranging from tourbillon movements bearing the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal, to time-only movements produced on an industrial scale. Telling the time According to Mr Billières, the GNS 1 is the realisation of his long-held ambition of creating his own watch, after spending his career doing it for others. The GNS 1 is essentially an exceptionally avant-garde display of the hours and minutes. Even when static the face is impressive...

The 10 best skeleton dials from 2018 Time+Tide
Rolex 4113 Jul 9, 2019

The 10 best skeleton dials from 2018

Skeleton dials are interesting, not because they offer a garish look at something exposed but because they showcase the sheer level of complexity involved in modern watchmaking. Without searching for photos of the movement of your watch online, or doing a John Goldberger (and opening your million dollar Rolex 4113 with a cheese knife), the … ContinuedThe post The 10 best skeleton dials from 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Ever wonder how many Kickstarter watches actually get off the ground?  Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Ever wonder how many Kickstarter watches actually get off the ground? 

For better or worse, Kickstarter is now a firmly entrenched part of the watch production, retail and marketing landscape. Watches have historically been a phenomenally popular category on the crowdfunding platform, but for every glittering success story, there’s an equal number of projects left on the cutting room floor.  If you’re the kind of curious cat … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Ever wonder how many Kickstarter watches actually get off the ground?  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Have a heart - the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon Time+Tide
Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon Jul 8, 2019

Have a heart - the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon

In a world overflowing with safe-and-similar watch designs, Franck Muller is a breath of fresh air. As in this ladies tourbillon (a recent addition to the Cintrée Curvex Collection), the confident use of colour, the beautiful balance of traditional and avant-garde, the refined details on the dial, and the voluptuous curves of the case have … ContinuedThe post Have a heart – the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1962 Racing Chronograph is perfectly pitched (and priced) nostalgia Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1962 Racing Chronograph is perfectly pitched (and priced) nostalgia

Dan Henry is a pretty great little watch brand - the brainchild of a Brazilian watch collector who is dedicated to making affordable modern versions of classic designs. And while other brands go down this path of well-priced retro nostalgia, too often it comes across as inauthentic pastiche. But this isn’t an accusation you can … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1962 Racing Chronograph is perfectly pitched (and priced) nostalgia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 Mount Everest watches that are literally high horology Time+Tide
Jul 7, 2019

5 Mount Everest watches that are literally high horology

As long as the internet and watch enthusiasts exist, there will be arguments about what the first watch on Mount Everest was. But rather than discussing semantic possibilities of the interpretation of 60-year-old advertisements, we wanted to look at a selection of Mount Everest watches (not just which was first). Smiths de Luxe   The … ContinuedThe post 5 Mount Everest watches that are literally high horology appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Original sin - the Bulgari Octo L’Originale in black and gold Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo L’Originale Jul 7, 2019

Original sin - the Bulgari Octo L’Originale in black and gold

Regular readers will register precisely zero surprise when I state that the entirety of Time+Tide are raging fans of Bulgari’s distinctive Octo - but, if we’re being completely real (and when are we not?), then it’s the Octo Finissimo that attracts the lion’s share of our ardour. But it’s not the only arrow in that … ContinuedThe post Original sin – the Bulgari Octo L’Originale in black and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel Time+Tide
Jul 7, 2019

In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel

Editor’s note: The year is 2019, and solid gold is worth less than steel. While this seems strange on the face of it, especially to those more recently in the horological hobbit hole, steel doesn’t look like it’s getting less shiny anytime soon. So taking a macro view of the watch buying landscape, gold pieces … ContinuedThe post In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tom makes a case for waiting lists with the story of his Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 - “I told the dealer what I wanted and he went, ha!” Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 – “I Jul 2, 2019

Tom makes a case for waiting lists with the story of his Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 - “I told the dealer what I wanted and he went, ha!”

In the first episode of a new Time+Tide video series called ‘Every Watch Tells A Story’ - in which we ask people to choose a watch in their collection with a memorable backstory - Tom explains how he came to be the proud owner of a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, a watch that has had arguably more … ContinuedThe post Tom makes a case for waiting lists with the story of his Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 – “I told the dealer what I wanted and he went, ha!” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Old is the new black, 8 of the best heritage watches of 2018 Time+Tide
Jul 2, 2019

Old is the new black, 8 of the best heritage watches of 2018

While orange might be the new black, another obvious trend in the contemporary watch market is the lean towards heritage styling. This has been a consistent motif across the industry for a number of years now, but 2018 was a year when the number of heritage watches almost eclipsed those with more contemporary design. In … ContinuedThe post Old is the new black, 8 of the best heritage watches of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

That time Adam Craniotes told us about his JLC, and the lies he told to get it Time+Tide
JLC Jul 1, 2019

That time Adam Craniotes told us about his JLC, and the lies he told to get it

Editor’s note: If you spend more than a few minutes in that wonderful (and terrifying) thing that is the watch community, you’ll quickly become familiar with the larger-than-life figure that is Adam Craniotes. Today we found out that Adam has just become the Editor-in-Chief of Revolution USA, for which he has our heartfelt congratulations. So, … ContinuedThe post That time Adam Craniotes told us about his JLC, and the lies he told to get it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

These are 6 of the best quartz watches of 2018 Time+Tide
Jun 29, 2019

These are 6 of the best quartz watches of 2018

Quartz often gets a bad rap as the ugly duckling of the watch world. With pejoratives such as “soulless”, and “the quartz watch is entirely dependent on its battery and it has the dedicated ambition to commit suicide as soon as possible”, it takes a beating. And while the latter quote was by a not-insignificant … ContinuedThe post These are 6 of the best quartz watches of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko vs. Garmin - who will survive an ultramarathon? Time+Tide
Seiko vs Garmin – who Jun 28, 2019

Seiko vs. Garmin - who will survive an ultramarathon?

One of the most beautiful elements of the mechanical watch is it doesn’t rely on disposable units of lithium to function. If you keep moving, your watch will too. This forms a dependent partnership that for many collectors is a huge emotional attraction to the mechanical watch. The energy from your fingertips directly transfers power … ContinuedThe post Seiko vs. Garmin – who will survive an ultramarathon? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton  Time+Tide
Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton  Architectural Jun 28, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton 

Architectural is a word that gets thrown around a lot in watch writing, and when you look at a watch like this Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton you can see why. The clear, expansive view provided allows the wearer to look down at a tiny, and industrious city, busily whirring away.  And if we continue the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept Diver SJX Watches
Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept Diver Jun 28, 2019

Introducing the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept Diver

Ming Watches has enjoyed a cult following since its debut in 2017, thanks to its affordable, smartly designed watches. Conceived by a band of watch collectors in Malaysia and then manufactured in Switzerland, Ming made its debut with the affordable 17 Series before going upmarket with the 19 Series that includes a world time. Now the brand debuts its first dive watch – a 10-piece limited edition that boasts a depth rating of 1,250m. The 18.01 Abyss Concept was born after Ming acquired a pressure testing machine and decided to create a dive watch in the brand’s distinctive design language. It is essentially an exercise in styling a larger Ming watch and also the response to a frequent request from clients wanting a sports watch. Concise design Ming’s unique styling was borne of the collecting experience of its six founders share and their desire not to repeat common designs. That is probably more difficult on a dive watch, since the standard ingredients of a diver are well defined. The same design elements that characterised the 17 and 19 Series watches – like symmetry and clean, geometric shapes – have been employed on the 18.01 Abyss Concept, albeit with tweaks for maximum functionality underwater. The most fundamental element of a dive watch, the unidirectional, 60-click bezel, has a ceramic insert marked with an unusual redesign of the conventional, elapsed time scale. Filled with white Super-Luminova, the markings on the bezel co...

Up Close: Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite Ref. 126719BLRO-0002 SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite Ref Jun 28, 2019

Up Close: Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite Ref. 126719BLRO-0002

In the Rolex sports watch hall of fame, the GMT-Master II is arguably the most practical. It is a relatively affordable, dual time zone watch; and there are, after all, more people who travel than those who dive or race or sail. At the same time, the GMT-Master has always been available in precious metal, in 18k Everose for instance, and also lavishly bejewelled like the popular sapphire and ruby “SARU”. The new meteorite dial GMT-Master II, on the other hand, is bling meets functionality without the gemstones, making it an unusual and compelling watch. And it’s also the first time Rolex has used meteorite in a watch other than the Daytona or Day-Date. In fact, the meteorite GMT-Master probably the most practical ultra-luxe travel watch out there. And it costs only about US$1600 over the standard white gold GMT-Master with a blue dial, making it a worthwhile upgrade. Maybe “Pan Am” Rolex has not revealed what inspired the meteorite GMT-Master, but the GMT-Master “Pan Am” or “Albino” is obvious. Reputedly made in small numbers for executives at Pan American Airways – the company credited for the creation of the GMT-Master – the GMT-Masters fitted with white dials are either the refs. 6542 or 1675. A handful are known and have sold for well into six figures, but the white dial examples are controversial and often accompanied by unending questions as to whether they are legit. A jewel of a watch In contrast, the modern day equivalent of...

Don’t stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept Time+Tide
Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept Like Jun 28, 2019

Don’t stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept

Like all good stories filled with plot and intrigue, this one involves acquiring a pressure testing machine, and the decision to design a dive watch with it. Just like that, the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept was born. In case you’re not familiar with Ming, they’re a relatively young brand that’s been making a lot of … ContinuedThe post Don’t stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Launched Jun 27, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

Launched two years ago with a steel case, the BR 03-92 Diver took the signature aviation inspired design of Bell & Ross (B&R;) into the sea. It was a proper dive watch that combined the iconic square case with a 300m depth rating and a rotating bezel. At Baselworld this year, B&R; unveiled two new iterations of the BR 03-92 Diver, with cases in bronze and matte black ceramic respectively. Though fundamentally identical, each is drastically different from the other in look and feel. The road to the deep But first a quick recap of B&R;’s past dive watches. Though the brand is today best known for its military aviation watches, B&R; got its start making watches (which were essentially rebadged Sinn timepieces) for professionals in various spheres, from bomb disposal engineers to deep sea divers. One of its earliest dive watches was the Hydromax (also known as the Hydro Challenger) of 1997. It was a compact, round watch with a quartz movement boasting a ludicrous depth rating of 11,100m, thanks to a case filled with transparent fluorinated oil that was incompressible. A decade later, the brand was producing its own watches and unveiled the BR 02, a tonneau-shaped dive watch with a 1000m depth rating, internal rotating bezel and helium escape valve. Then came the BR 03-92 in 2017, the most logical expression of a dive watch for a brand driven largely by military-inspired design. Crucially, bona fide square watch cases are inherently more difficult to seal against ...

Mixing business with pleasure in the form of the Longines Record in steel and gold Time+Tide
Longines Record Jun 26, 2019

Mixing business with pleasure in the form of the Longines Record in steel and gold

Just the other day, Sandra was opining about the changing face of two-tone, and today this fine example of modern bi-colour watches hits the proverbial desk. The Record collection is Longines’ line of dressy daily wearers that offer a great entry point into some pretty serious mechanical watchmaking. And that’s because every single watch in the … ContinuedThe post Mixing business with pleasure in the form of the Longines Record in steel and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Leap year? No worries -  3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G Jun 26, 2019

Leap year? No worries -  3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G was unveiled at Baselworld 2018 to much fanfare, as it marked the debut of the perpetual calendar complication in the iconic Gérald Genta-designed watch. It still retains its signature looks, with the embossed blue dial, integrated bracelet and 40mm size. It’s also got a pleasing degree of heft … ContinuedThe post Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.