Revolution
Steve McQueen: The Watches
Revolution accounts for the many watches that Hollywood’s “King of Cool”, Steve McQueen owned and also the watches that he wore on screen.
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Revolution
Revolution accounts for the many watches that Hollywood’s “King of Cool”, Steve McQueen owned and also the watches that he wore on screen.
SJX Watches
In 1816, Louis Moinet accomplished a first in watchmaking: a timepiece that could precisely track elapsed time. Measuring periodicity on demand had been accomplished before, but the French watchmaker’s invention gave it the functionality and exactness that we expect today. In assessing prototypes, we often tend to forgive their shortcomings and rosily reminisce, rewriting flaws as charms. Moinet’s timepiece, however, was a prescient opus. The layout of the dial had the now-familiar large central hand and elapsed time in subdials. Two pushers controlled the start, stop and reset functions, the power reserve lasted over 30 hours, and the mainspring could be wound while the timing mechanism was engaged to allow for longer timing runs. Most impressive, though, was its precision. Louis Moinet’s compteur de tierces of 1816. Image – Louis Moinet Named the compteur de tierces, or “timer of thirds”, Moinet’s invention ran at 216,000 beats per hour, measuring time down to one-sixtieth of a second. To allow for this ambitious exactitude to be utilised, the central chronograph hand completed revolutions once per second – such that the user could easily see which sixtieth of a second the period in question ended on - and the watch had an extra sub-dial for tracking elapsed seconds in addition to those for the minutes and hours. Whys and wherefores An impressive story, except that it’s missing something. Why did Moinet build it? And what did he use it to measure? A...
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Last year, Seiko fans around the world had a collective skipping of heartbeats when the Japanese firm announced the release of the SLA033. This was no normal Seiko dive watch. As its full name suggests, the Seiko Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Edition SLA033, is a watch inspired by one of the most iconic Seiko dive watches … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are modern Apocalypse Now reissues, and they’re ready for 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
HODINKEE editors look back at the year in everyone's favorite complication.
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The death of Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1823 was a significant blow to the firm. Nevertheless, the Breguet name persists through the ages.
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Just when you thought it was safe to go in the water with your diver of choice, there’s yet another iteration to consider, and it lurks not only in the deep, but in our marketplace, where you can buy it as of today… Dive watches are perhaps the best served category of watches in the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original is a bulletproof diver with a brutal point of difference appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Massena LAB partners with MB&F; and L’Epée to announce the MB&F; X L’Epée X Massena LAB T-Rex Bronze
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Editor’s note: We recently covered the launch of Dan Henry’s latest addition to his range, the Dan Henry 1937, a cleanly designed chronograph that looks back to some of the most iconic watches in the category. If we need any more proof that Dan’s watches are taken very seriously by all levels of enthusiasts, we … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: 5 of our favourite Dan Henry watches, including the “spectacular dial” of the new 1937 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Time at the frigid edge of civilization.
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A gem from 2019's collection, the Cartier Santos-Dumont is everything we want in a modern dress watch. It is slim, iconic, and of sound watchmaking pedigree. Most importantly, its price point is relatively accessible at US$5,850 for a manual wind in steel and US$15,600 in rose gold.
Quill & Pad
One viewing of the Parmigiani Fleurier Hippologia in action is enough to confirm that its two horses’ gaits seem completely fluid and natural. The Hippologia displays two horses, a mare, and a foal taking a stroll around a Lalique glassware cabinet enclosing the highly complicated automaton and eight-day clock movement. This is an object that needs to be seen to be believed.
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With the United States being one of the largest importers of Swiss watches, it should come as no surprise that Grand Seiko wants to try to grab a larger share of the market. To tackle the US, Grand Seiko has a dedicated team in America - Grand Seiko America - to introduce the wonders of the … ContinuedThe post Exploring the 10 Grand Seiko models exclusive to the US market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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We discussed the Fujifilm GFX 100 last week, with details on the camera, lenses, Here is our lookbook of images made, with commentary on image quality.
SJX Watches
One of the details in the recent IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Black Carbon that appealed to IWC collectors was the revival of the “fish” crown – an emblem used by the brand from the 1950s to the mid-2000s to indicate a water-resistant watch. In fact, the fish logo is significant enough that it is found not only on the crown of the new Big Pilot, but also in relief on the case back (pictured above). Fondly remembered by enthusiasts, the discreet “fish” was eventually replaced by the more brand-centric “Probus Scafusia” emblem, one of the official IWC logos. Behind the comeback of the “fish” is a little-known and rather amusing trademark battle that took place in Swiss courts and was reported on last year by FPC Review, a blog specialising in Swiss patent issues. The IWC fish logo was first registered by Richemont on July 22, 2016, but the Swiss Federal Institute of Intellectual Property (IGE, or sometimes by its French acronym IPI) rejected the registration due to the logo’s resemblance to the ichthys, a fish-like symbol with used in Christianity. The court reasoned that “the commercial use of the sign is likely to violate the religious sentiment of an average Christian”. Ichthys – derived from ιχθυς, which is Greek for “fish” – is an acrostic that spells out “Iesous Christos, Theou Yios, Soter”, or “Jesus Christ, Son of God, Saviour”. Early Christians in the second and third century AD used the ichthys, essentially a two-...
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As the minutes tick ever closer to 6pm, and each member of the Time+Tide team finishes up their work for the week in their respective homes, thoughts turn to very important matters. Such as, what will the knock-off drink of choice be this week? How many blessed days without a Zoom call? And, what is … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Seiko divers, sandblasted Octos and a queen of the safe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Longines Record Collection is an important pillar of the brand today, representing the clean classicism that is embodied by the brand. The Heritage Collection is popular with the vintage enthusiast, just as the Sport Collection is a favourite of the adventurous type, and the Record Collection is designed to be an everyday companion and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Massena Lab was founded by watch industry veteran William Rohr – who is better known by the pseudonym William Massena – in 2018, with the purpose of collaborating with notable independent watchmakers, and perhaps one day make its own watches. Having made its debut with Habring2 , Massena Lab has just announced the T-Rex Bronze, a 15-piece variant of the quirky MB&F; table clock launched last year. Best described as a hand-blown Murano glass eyeball inside a bronze socket with legs, the T-Rex is made by L’Epee 1839, who is also responsible for all of MB&F;’s other clocks. Initial thoughts The T-Rex is an offbeat, statement piece for the desk, but powered by old-school mechanics – a key-wound, eight-day movement made by L’Epee 1839, a clockmaker founded in, well, 1839. That blend of contemporary creative and classic mechanics makes it cool. But the Massena Lab edition is a departure from the usual MB&F; clock style, which is dominated by metallic silver or black, resulting in a highly mechanical look. The Massena Lab T-Rex replaces the steel of the original version for frosted bronze and “aged” feet, giving the clock a striking, steampunk aesthetic. Permanent patina Standing a little under 27 cm high, the T-Rex weighs about 2 kg. According to MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser, the form was inspired by a bipedal Christmas ornament on his desk. Freelance watch designer Maximilian Maertens then created the clock, relying on images of an actual Tyrannosaurus Rex to d...
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One of the most iconic Seiko dive watches of all time is the 6105, a watch that was worn on the wrist of Martin Sheen as he starred as Captain Willard in the blockbuster film Apocalypse Now. This year, Seiko have announced the release of the Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J, two new references based … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are contenders for the hottest divers of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Within the thriving community of Seiko and Grand Seiko enthusiasts, some of the most highly prized watches are released only in the Japanese Domestic Market and the magic acronym you’ll hear more than any other in this community is indeed ‘JDM’. These JDM pieces might not be the most expensive, or limited in production numbers, … ContinuedThe post The best JDM Seiko and Grand Seiko watches and how you can get them, even if you don’t live in Japan appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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We begin our series of amagnetic watches with the IWC Ingieneur Ref. 3508, aka 500,000 A/m model. Here is our Collector's view of this rare watch.
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It’s been the case for centuries. Pioneers of industry pour plenty into R&D;, stretching themselves thin to find that one small breakthrough that will separate them from the rest. It’s hard to imagine a modern TV without YouTube connectivity, a modern car without ABS, or a modern phone without the world at your fingertips, but … ContinuedThe post The democratisation of ceramic bezels is complete, you can now buy one for $10 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Omega partners with the Swiss sailing team Alinghi, and in tribute to this new partnership, Omega announces the new Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon.
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Bulgari has, for more than a century, been regarded as one of the finest luxury jewellery makers on this blue marble we call earth. Their expertise, attention to detail, passion and visionary design has resulted in some of the most stunning pieces of jewellery and objet d’art imaginable. As such, throughout the 20th century, the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire Malachite Ref. 103231 is where Bulgari’s two worlds meet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution makes a case for why the world can always use another Speedmaster and why the new Speedmaster Alinghi could very well be a future collectable.
SJX Watches
Not long after Tudor unveiled the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue – a well priced and solid albeit slightly predictable launch – the brand quietly announced something more surprising – the Tudor Royal. Initially available only in four Asian markets, but now available worldwide starting November 2020, the Royal revives a model name last used several decades ago and applies it to an affordable watch with an integrated bracelet that has a retro, 1970s feel. Initial thoughts The Royal successfully combines various elements from past Tudor watches, with the exception of the dial, which looks a bit uninspired. The integrated bracelet and case brings to mind models of the 1970s, like the Tudor Ranger for instance, while the alternating fluted-and-polished bezel has been used on various models, including the fairly recent Tudor Classic. But the dial is plain, though it was likely designed to appeal to an audience that wants an obviously classical dial with Roman numerals. I would have liked it with a more modern dial, but nevertheless the value proposition is clear. For someone who wants a solid watch that doesn’t look like a diving instrument, the Royal is an excellent buy. With the base model priced a bit over US$2,000, the Royal is – like nearly all Tudor watches – excellent value for money given the high level of fit and finish of the external parts, which are likely the best in the price range. The movements inside are either Sellita or ETA calibres, which are no...
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Often, it is incremental and deliberate design progress - slow to the point that the casual observer might not even notice it - that creates the best products. Tiny changes, layered on one another year after year, are the key to creating an unmistakable visual identity that stands the test of time. It’s a blueprint that … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic, as liquid black as Darth Vader’s helmet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A new dial for one of the core references from CFB.
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Ever since its unveiling at Baselworld back in 2016, I’ve wanted a Rolex Air-King Ref. 116900. And, perhaps rather oddly, I’ve yearned for this polarising watch even longer than that. Allow me to explain. Back in 2014, Rolex announced they had made a bespoke pair of dash clocks for what was formerly known as the … ContinuedThe post A YEAR ON THE WRIST: With a twist… Why I love the polarising Rolex Air-King Ref. 116900 but why I won’t wear it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
We trace the 35-year story of the sporty round watch with a crown-cap and assured sense of style that is Cartier’s Pasha de Cartier.
Quill & Pad
Many people believe resonance to be very rare, when in fact every single timekeeping device (yes, even quartz) is a resonant mechanism. But clocks and watches featuring resonance as we generally understand it in watchmaking are few and far between. In the last few decades, less than a handful of highly skilled watchmakers have taken up the challenge of creating a resonance watch. Here, Joshua Munchow looks at the pros and cons of the different approaches taken by the three leaders in this technology.
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