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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jul 11, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic

A new livery for one of Zenith’s most popular models, the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic shares the styling of its siblings like the Defy Skyline 36 mm but with a few notable tweaks including a white ceramic case and blue-treated skeletonised movement. And though it appears to be a simple time-only watch, the Defy Skyline features a discreet complication in the form of a “lightning” small seconds hand that completes one rotation every ten seconds. Initial thoughts Zenith has recently been playing it safe with new launches by building on current bestsellers, like the Defy Skyline. The new skeleton in white ceramic is a good looking watch, and an excellent execution of one of Zenith’s modern-day classics. The combination is also novel. Although each key element of the watch is common in itself – a skeleton movement plus the white ceramic case and bracelet – they are relatively uncommon together. The Defy Skyline Skeleton on the wrist However, the Defy Skyline arguably tries too hard to capitalise on the recent (and waning) popularity of integrated-bracelet sports watches. It is not difficult to see a resemblance to the Royal Oak, in particular the one-off Royal Oak made for Only Watch 2023, making it a bit cliché. Priced at US$17,500, the Defy Skyline Skeleton in white ceramic is a decent value proposition compared to similar watches, most of which are from pricier brands like Hublot or Audemars Piguet. Besides the ceramic case and bracelet, it stands out ...

The Breitling Endurance Pro Lost 6mm And Seems In Better Shape Than Ever Fratello
Breitling Endurance Pro Lost 6mm Jul 10, 2024

The Breitling Endurance Pro Lost 6mm And Seems In Better Shape Than Ever

You know the Breitling Endurance Pro as a 44mm sports watch with a Breitlight case and a SuperQuartz movement inside. Now there’s a new size in town. The 38mm version of the Endurance Pro is positioned as a universal watch, although two of the five colorways available are probably perceived as feminine. Anyway, the color […] Visit The Breitling Endurance Pro Lost 6mm And Seems In Better Shape Than Ever to read the full article.

Introducing - The Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll with a Mesmerising Chrysocolla Dial Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll Jul 10, 2024

Introducing - The Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll with a Mesmerising Chrysocolla Dial

Ulysse Nardin has always been associated with the sea, from its early days as a purveyor of precision marine chronometers to its current nautical-inspired collection, which includes classical references like the Marine Torpilleur or more contemporary, high-performance Divers. Offered in three case sizes, the more compact 39mm model returns with a stunning mottled neon blue […]

Hands On: F.P. Journe Élégante “Gino’s Dream” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Aquanaut minute repeater Jul 9, 2024

Hands On: F.P. Journe Élégante “Gino’s Dream”

Now a legend in his own time, François-Paul Journe is an independent watchmaker who has created some of the most complicated and most ingenious timepieces in contemporary watchmaking. But having quietly previewed it last year, Mr Journe finally launched a watch that is, on its face, surprising for his brand: the Élégante Gino’s Dream. Many brands have “rainbow” watches in their catalogues, but as is always the case with Mr Journe, his “rainbow” creation is done his own inimitable way. Based on his inventive quartz watch, the Élégante Gino’s Dream is set with synthetic gemstones of glass-ceramic composite. The colours and model name are a tribute to the late Gino Cukrowicz (1959-2021), one of Mr Journe’s best friends and a longtime business partner. Initial thoughts With the popularity – and value – of “rainbow” watches, it seems like every watch brand has one in its line-up, from the Patek Philippe Aquanaut minute repeater in rainbow stones from end to end to Tudor’s special edition for the VCARB Formula 1 team. So an F.P. Journe in those colours isn’t surprising, yet the Élégante “Gino’s Dream” is unexpected. As with much he has done, Mr Journe didn’t do a “rainbow” like anyone else. Instead of an exceptionally expensive gem-set watch – a favoured approach as a sure way to increase revenue without boosting production – he created something entry-level, more or less. And the watch has a deeply personal aspect to it – Gino...

Grand Seiko Unveils the Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Unveils Jul 9, 2024

Grand Seiko Unveils the Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion”

Following last year’s SBGA481, Grand Seiko continues to expand the Sport Collection “Tokyo Lion” series inspired by the big cat in the Grand Seiko emblem. Like its predecessor, the Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” sports a stylised, angular titanium case inspired by a lion’s paw and a textured dial modelled on a mane, now joined by a red GMT hand. Initial thoughts The “Tokyo Lion” is one of the most distinctive case designs in Grand Seiko’s large catalogue, and also the flagship given its complex finishing (and accompanying price). While most Grand Seiko watches opt for patterned dials and conservative, even bland, case styles, the “Tokyo Lion” makes a statement with its is generous dimensions and angular styling. The design is also particularly suited to Grand Seiko’s signature flat-polishing technique. With their wide, flat surfaces, the claw-inspired lugs are an excellent medium to showcase zaratsu polishing. It is, however, a large case at almost 45 mm wide and 15 mm high, so it’s catered to someone seeking a bold sports watch, and not an old-school Grand Seiko dress watch. The texture of the dial is striking, even though Grand Seiko has no shortage of dial patterns in its offerings. The dial artfully mimics a lion’s mane, giving it more visual depth than the typical Grand Seiko dial. Though few, the red accents on the dial add just enough colour and complement the ivory dial well. The dial might have been slightly dull without th...

Hands-on - The Revised TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date Monochrome
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date Jul 8, 2024

Hands-on - The Revised TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date

Following a complete and welcomed overhaul of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Automatic collection in 2021, last month the brand introduced its latest updated models in the series, with five new Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and three Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT versions, with captivating new dials, slightly reduced case sizes, and powered by the […]

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster WatchAdvice
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Jul 8, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster

In this latest hands-on review, we look at Seiko’s Prospex Marinmaster, a reinterpretation of the brand’s first-ever 1965 diver’s watch. What We Love: The mix of brushed and polished surfaces on the case, bracelet and dial The dial pattern and colour are stunning in person. Open case back showing movement for the first time in a Seiko diver. What We Don’t: The bracelet clasp design is not suited for high-end Seiko divers. Open case back could show more of the movement. The date window could have been placed better for a more balanced dial view. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Seiko first introduced a trio of Prospex Marinemaster models in late 2023. These timepieces merged two of the brand’s best heritage diver timepieces, the Marinemaster from 2000 and the classic first-ever Seiko divers watch, the 1965 62MAS. Combining two signature designs to make a brand new modern diver’s timepiece. The 2023 Prospex Marinemaster models showcase Seiko’s renowned craftsmanship and dedication to creating excellent dive watches. The collection uses a rugged design along with beautiful dial aesthetics to make it known that it can be used as both a tool watch and a daily wearer. The Prospex Marinemaster also uses the iconic Seiko watch designs from the above-mentioned references. Original 1965 62MAS Diver watch (left) vs modern re-interpretation Save The Ocean Limited Edition (right) Seiko is well known ...

Hands-On With The Zelos Nova 37mm - A Tantalum Watch With A Grail-Like Presence Fratello
Zelos Jul 3, 2024

Hands-On With The Zelos Nova 37mm - A Tantalum Watch With A Grail-Like Presence

This review was tough as this Zelos made a big impact with its materials and slim, demure case. Going hands-on with the Zelos Nova 37mm Tantalum has been a pleasure regardless of value, brand image, and size, so staying objective was quite challenging. First impressions from press shots left me with an image of too […] Visit Hands-On With The Zelos Nova 37mm - A Tantalum Watch With A Grail-Like Presence to read the full article.

The Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets the Full Lume Treatment SJX Watches
Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets Jul 3, 2024

The Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets the Full Lume Treatment

Ressence has gently tweaked its flagship model to create the Type 5 L. Already unconventional in its original form, the new Type 5 is similar in style and function to the original but with a fully luminous dial that maximises legibility in the dark. As is tradition for the brand’s higher-end offerings, the Type 5 L features an oil-filled case that enhances visibility of the dial by eliminating a common problem underwater: refraction. Initial thoughts Dive watches rarely deviate from orthodoxy, exemplified by the Rolex Submariner. But then there is Ressence, which is unorthodox across all its watches, but in a sensible and thoughtful manner. The Type 5 L underwater The Type 5 L meets the ISO 6425 standard for a dive watch, but looks nothing like a typical dive watch. Even though the planetary sub-dials take some getting used to, legibility is good once you’re familiar with the dial layout. And the addition of lume enhances visibility, making this a logical evolution of the model. As is often the case with most of the brand’s top-end offerings, the only downside is the price of CHF34,500. Granted, the Type 5 L is unique in construction and form, and also executed to a high level of quality – but it is still pricey. The entire dial of the timepiece is luminous for legibility in dim light Oil-filled dial In terms of dimensions and materials, the Type 5 L is identical to its less luminous counterpart. The case is titanium, measuring 46 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm high....

Hands On: Lange Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary SJX Watches
Casio n worth marking Lange Jul 2, 2024

Hands On: Lange Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary

A. Lange & Söhne marks the 25th year of its landmark chronograph this year, with two commemorative editions so far – a tremendously expensive all-in-one edition and the relatively more accessible Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary. The first Datograph with a white gold case and also the first regular production model with a blue dial, the anniversary edition the result of a relatively modest cosmetic makeover – but unexpectedly compelling. Initial thoughts The Datograph in an imperfect watch – amongst other things it’s top heavy with a somewhat dated dial design – but it has an intrinsic appeal because its movement is outstanding. Even though it’s already 25 years old, the movement remains exceptional in terms of aesthetics. The fact that it’s 25 years old also makes the Datograph important, because Lange created such a movement long before such things became a thing. So the 25th anniversary of the Datograph is an occasion worth marking. Lange debuted two watches for the anniversary (with perhaps a third one to come): the complicated and expensive Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen, and the more accessible Datograph 25th Anniversary. On its face the Datograph Up/Down seems a bit mundane for an anniversary watch. Both the blue dial and white gold case are unique for the Datograph, but together the watch doesn’t look or feel that different. But like the Datograph as a model, the anniversary edition is imperfect yet appealing. Though it is plain...

Longines Unveils the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Unveils Jul 1, 2024

Longines Unveils the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in Titanium

Following the original Pilot Majetek in stainless steel, Longines has unveiled the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition with a titanium case and a grey-tone livery. Modelled on the original majetek aviator’s watch supplied to the Czechoslovakian air force in the 1930s, the limited edition is identical to the stainless steel variation in terms of design, dimensions, and movement, but is lightweight thanks to the case metal but also unexpectedly pricey. The Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in grade 5 titanium Initial thoughts The Pioneer Edition is Longines’ third re-issue of the original. Longines didn’t quite get it right with the first remake, the Heritage 1935. It lacked the rotating bezel with a triangular marker that was one of the defining features of the original, and also had an awkwardly positioned date window at six and “automatic” on the dial. Last year’s Pilot Majetek in steel was not really a remake since it has a distinctly different case design, but still gained several refinements over the Heritage 1935. However, the Pioneer Edition is not really a tangible improvement over the steel model. Thought the titanium case does bring with it lightness as well as a muted grey finish that goes well with the design, it comes at a big price increase of almost 40% over the steel version. Such a large premium for a titanium case doesn’t make much sense today given the difference in cost of a case in either material is negligible for a big brand. The Arabic indices, a...

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Concept Jun 29, 2024

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon

The H. Moser Streamliner just had its Haute Horlogerie chops dialed up to eleven. The result is a thoroughly modern and characterful watch that cannot be confused with anything other than a Moser. What we get is the familiar Streamliner case with its organically integrated bracelet and sterile dial. Don’t fret, though, because “sterile” does […] Visit Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon to read the full article.

Hublot Unveils the Clean, Monochromatic Classic Fusion Essential Grey SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Jun 28, 2024

Hublot Unveils the Clean, Monochromatic Classic Fusion Essential Grey

Hublot just unveiled the third instalment of Essential Grey, a series of watches dressed in a cool monochrome. The latest addition is the Classic Fusion Essential Grey that’s available in two sizes of 42 mm and 45 mm. It’s a low-key look that sports a sun ray-brushed grey dial and titanium case. As is convention for Essential Grey, the pair are available only online. The case sports the iconic porthole-shaped bezel Initial thoughts While earlier Essential Grey models were chronographs, the new pair are simply, time-and-date watches. Despite being monochromatic, the Essential Grey chronographs looked busy. The Classic Fusion, on the other hand, is a perfect match for the monochromatic palette. The design is as clean as a Hublot can be, which complements the colour scheme well. Already a wearable watch in itself, the Classic Fusion in this restrained styling is made even more wearable. The only weakness of the watch is the price. At US$8,500, the Classic Fusion Essential Grey is amongst the most affordable Hublot models, but it costs that much despite the basic Sellita SW300 movement inside. The SW300 is a strong performer but inexpensive and usually found in correspondingly inexpensive watches. I know that Hublot is working on a workhorse in-house calibre to take the place of the SW300, but until then the price is stiff. Porthole The Classic Fusion Essential Grey is available in 42 mm and 45 mm variants, with both identical save for the case dimensions. The 42 mm versio...

Introducing: The Ming 37.08 Starlight With An Arresting Aventurine Dial Fratello
Ming 37.08 Starlight Jun 27, 2024

Introducing: The Ming 37.08 Starlight With An Arresting Aventurine Dial

The Ming 37.08 Starlight is the brand’s newest release, and it’s a natural beauty that reacts dramatically to the light. As we’ll see, this watch uses the latest case format, which fits well on wrists of various sizes. Potential buyers will also like that a bracelet is standard and that the model will be produced […] Visit Introducing: The Ming 37.08 Starlight With An Arresting Aventurine Dial to read the full article.

Breguet Introduces the Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345 in Rose Gold SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jun 27, 2024

Breguet Introduces the Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345 in Rose Gold

Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted a patent for the tourbillon on June 16, 1801. On the birthday of his celebrated invention, Breguet launches the facelifted, rose gold iteration of the Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345. The brand’s most formidable tourbillon, the Double Tourbillon is a remarkable timepiece that blends forward-thinking mechanics with traditional craftsmanship, all presented in a striking, oversized case. Initial thoughts  While the newest iteration of the Double Tourbillon collection is not actually new (the original version was launched four years ago), the complication never ceases to amaze. The watch is an impressive demonstration of artisanal skill, with open worked movement revealing a plethora of decorated surfaces, each showcasing a different finishing technique.  The three-dimensional calibre is built upon an 18k rose gold main plate that’s been engine turned with a new wave guilloche developed by Breguet. And the reverse of the watch reveals the bridges of the movement that are entirely hand engraved with a detailed scene of 19th century Paris. Beyond the artisanal finishes, the movement is a highly technical affair. It features no dial, with the movement forming the face. Not only does it include two tourbillon regulators, each with its own going train and barrel, but half of the movement itself is geared to rotate once every 12 hours. The watch is large for the classic Breguet style, but the chunky case is i...

Oris Releases a New Divers Sixty-Five with a “Forest Green” Dial Worn & Wound
Oris Releases Jun 26, 2024

Oris Releases a New Divers Sixty-Five with a “Forest Green” Dial

Another week, another green Oris Divers Sixty-Five. Just six days ago, Oris unveiled what could possibly be the ideal, enthusiast focused version of the Divers Sixty-Five. That model has a versatile 38mm case, the brand’s high-spec manufacture movement, no date, and a dial in a color that’s very much of the current moment. The new(er) reference has some on-the-surface similarities, but the details will likely make this one appeal to a very different customer. That’s part of what makes Oris such a compelling brand for both new and old enthusiasts and collectors, though – there’s an incredible variety, and truly something for every taste, even within a single collection.  What we have here is a 40mm Divers Sixty-Five with a green dial that Oris says is inspired by the dense forests that surround the company’s original factory in Hölstein. The tone here has a subtle fumé effect, reading as a light, almost pastel green at the dial’s center, transitioning into something more lush and quite a bit darker at the outer edges.  With the slightly larger case, we also get a date at the 6:00 position, a function of the Oris Calibre 733 movement that powers the watch. This movement is a rebadged Sellita and offers 41 hours of power reserve. Oris deserves credit, I think, for continuing to produce interesting variants of the Divers Sixty-Five with this more affordable but completely respectable workhorse caliber. Many brands, after introducing a new caliber family like ...

First Look - The New H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Concept Jun 26, 2024

First Look - The New H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon

Introduced just four years ago, H. Moser & Cie‘s luxury Streamliner sports watch debuted with a flyback chronograph and swiftly expanded its complications repertoire to include perpetual calendars, tourbillons and skeletonised models. The latest Streamliner ascends the complications ladder with the combination of a sophisticated minute repeater and flying tourbillon. While Moser’s resilient Streamliner case provides a […]

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54 Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 54 Jun 21, 2024

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54

In case you couldn’t tell, we’re fans of Tudor in these parts. Yeah, yeah, nothing new; everyone likes a Tudor, but man, even in head-to-head combat, it’s hard to find much fault with their watches. Well, I’ll tell you a secret: I do have an issue with them. It’s not a big issue, per se, but it’s not nothing, either. Here’s the deal: when you get one, you choose which strap you want, and that’s it. Want the rubber and the bracelet? You better buy two. Ok, perhaps that’s an exaggeration, but as far as Tudor’s website goes, you can’t order the straps separately. Maybe an AD can, but who’s got time for all that? Now, hear me out; the other thing is that they make very good bracelets. If you, like me, are prone to the occasional Black Bay purchase, you will choose the bracelet over the other options. But those other options, the rubber in particular, are just so damn nice. What’s a collector to do? Well, for Tudor Black Bay 54 owners, there’s a new solution from our friends in Singapore, Delugs. Rubber straps are all well and good, but there’s just something special about one meant for your watch. One fitted to the exact shape of the lugs for that modern, integrated look. Introducing the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS straps for various watches, including the BB54. Delugs was kind enough to send one over for some sweat-errr– road testing, so here are my thoughts. Despite the setup, I’m actually not a huge rubber strap person. I’m not a huge br...

Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat Fratello
Doxa Sub 200T Jun 21, 2024

Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat

Doxa’s Sub 200T is a wonderful underwater companion and underlines the trend toward smaller tool watches. Having debuted just before the start of Watches and Wonders 2024, the Sub 200T was met with broadly positive acclaim. As a truly mid-sized option with a 39mm case diameter and slim profile, it rounds out Doxa’s cushion-cased offerings […] Visit Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat to read the full article.

Singer Reimagined Expands their 1969 Collection Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Carrera Jun 20, 2024

Singer Reimagined Expands their 1969 Collection

There is almost no end to watches inspired by motorsport, but very few watches take that inspiration and do anything truly unique with it. Just yesterday, we brought you news of a new TAG Heuer Carrera that, in my opinion, is something of a by-the-numbers collaboration between an automaker and a luxury watch brand. It has design notes that convey a watch that’s sporty and modern, the “Porsche” wordmark prominently featured on the case itself, and it’s a Carrera, a collection that is naturally imbued with racing history. I’ve written about a lot of watches that say “Porsche” on them in one way or another, but it’s honestly difficult to tell them apart after a while. Singer Reimagined takes an entirely different approach.  The brand itself is part of the Singer Group, which rose to prominence with their bespoke restorations of vintage Porsche 911s. What Singer brings to the table is a very unique and highly specialized perspective. You might love it or hate it, but they don’t suffer from the same problems that inevitably plague large luxury watch brands, namely casting an impossibly wide net, resulting in products that, even when ostensibly “niche,” have a certain generic quality to them. Being intrinsically connected to the car world, it’s no surprise that Singer only makes chronographs. Expanding on the very idea of the chronograph in an adventurous way is part of what makes Singer Reimagined exciting. Their chronographs use unconventional movement...

Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 - Has Panerai Seen The Light? Fratello
Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 Jun 20, 2024

Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 - Has Panerai Seen The Light?

Forget, if you can, about the 38mm Luminor Due Luna with its mother-of-pearl dial. Instead, focus on the 49mm Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID. Is this massive PAM01800 with a case, case back, and bezel in blue Ti-Ceramitech the watch that will relight the fire in the hearts of a dormant group of Paneristi? It seems […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 - Has Panerai Seen The Light? to read the full article.