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Revolution
In celebration of Breitling’s 140th anniversary, Wei is joined by Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling, to explore their exciting novelties for 2024. Highlights include the new Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter, with an incredible story behind it, and new 2024 versions of the Navitimer series, including a stunning Navitimer Cosmonaut, among many others.
Fratello
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we take a listener’s suggestion and discuss how we research watches before buying. We’ve touched upon this before, but it’s a constantly evolving topic that deserves an update. For our beloved listeners, the watch content begins after 19 minutes. If you’re a watch collector and […] Visit Fratello On Air: How We Research Watches Before Buying to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
In the world of independent micro-brands, NEOTYPE has made a strong impression since its 2022 launch. Founded by two industry veterans, each with fifteen years of watchmaking experience, NEOTYPE embodies their shared passion for functional design and quality craftsmanship.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne marks the 25th year of its landmark chronograph this year, with two commemorative editions so far – a tremendously expensive all-in-one edition and the relatively more accessible Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary. The first Datograph with a white gold case and also the first regular production model with a blue dial, the anniversary edition the result of a relatively modest cosmetic makeover – but unexpectedly compelling. Initial thoughts The Datograph in an imperfect watch – amongst other things it’s top heavy with a somewhat dated dial design – but it has an intrinsic appeal because its movement is outstanding. Even though it’s already 25 years old, the movement remains exceptional in terms of aesthetics. The fact that it’s 25 years old also makes the Datograph important, because Lange created such a movement long before such things became a thing. So the 25th anniversary of the Datograph is an occasion worth marking. Lange debuted two watches for the anniversary (with perhaps a third one to come): the complicated and expensive Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen, and the more accessible Datograph 25th Anniversary. On its face the Datograph Up/Down seems a bit mundane for an anniversary watch. Both the blue dial and white gold case are unique for the Datograph, but together the watch doesn’t look or feel that different. But like the Datograph as a model, the anniversary edition is imperfect yet appealing. Though it is plain...
Worn & Wound
It’s been a slow few months in the watch industry. Not at all uncommon in the summer, and we haven’t even hit the real sleepy months yet, when most of Europe goes on holiday and American watch media is confronted with the reality that we’re working a beat that doesn’t really exist for a short period of time. But there was real news last week: Bloomberg reported that LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault owns a (small) personal stake in the Richemont Group, his closest rival in the luxury goods space. Once the news broke, many began to speculate. Hey, it’s a slow summer – speculating is what keeps us awake. Could this be a sign that LVMH is positioning itself to buy the Richemont Group? Could that even happen? What’s the actual point of antitrust laws anyway? Bernard Arnault There’s no actual indication, of course, that Arnault wants to purchase Richemont. The holdings, according to Bloomberg, are part of a larger portfolio of Arnault family investments that include many publicly traded companies. No comment as of yet from Richemont or LVMH, although as many outlets are reporting, LVMH has a history of buying an interest in their rivals. We live in a world where insane wealth becomes more insane every year, so it’s not a huge mental leap to think that Bernard Arnault, who on any given day might be the world’s wealthiest man, could have eyes on getting even richer. Taking an ownership stake in Richemont would almost certainly do that. It likely already has – Ric...
Worn & Wound
As we approach the Fourth of July, our Summer Sales Event is in full swing. We’re offering a variety of special deals and gifts with purchase, along with our standard free domestic shipping. To help you make the most of this event, we’ve highlighted five of our top picks from the sale. As we approach the Fourth of July, our Summer Sales Event is in full swing. We’re offering a variety of special deals and gifts with purchase, along with our standard free domestic shipping. To help you make the most of this event, we’ve highlighted five of our top picks from the sale. The post Our Five Summer Sale Event Favorites appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Glamour is alive and well. Momentum for 1970s design-led watches on the red carpet is still going strong.
Worn & Wound
You know the old philosophical question about the tree falling in the forest without anyone there to hear it? The new release from Hublot, a pair of Classic Fusions that make up the third installment of their “Essential Grey” collection, has me thinking of a similar question that could be aimed at the watch community: if a Hublot is reserved and muted, is it still a Hublot? Obviously, of course it is. But my personal interest in the brand is so geared toward their more experimental side, a release like this really flies under the radar. As a point of fact, however, the Essential Grey releases are a very big deal in the Hublot collector community, and this one ought to prove every bit as popular as the prior two. For the uninitiated, the Essential Grey watches in Hublot’s catalog are an annual release of a watch in a simple grey colorway, always sold through a single channel and always focusing on a single model. It only happens once a year, so it’s a drop that Hublot fans eagerly anticipate. Previous Essential Grey releases included versions of Big Bang Unico and Spirit of Big Bang. This year, Hublot steps away from the bombast of those watches, opting for a watch that is meant to remind collectors of the brand’s origins. The Classic Fusion is Hublot’s most straightforward watch, and the watch most closely in tune with the brand’s past. It’s a model that’s often used to explicitly connect the Hublot of the 1980s to the Hublot of today, as it did with ...
Hodinkee
Running the gamut from a '90s-inspired SWATCH to a vibrant digital watch from Autodromo and an underrated take on Hamilton's Khaki series.
Deployant
England based independent Garrick releases the successor to their S3 Mk1 and S2 Deadbeat seconds models with the latest S3 Mk2.
Fratello
While my love of vintage-infused watches is cyclical, my love of dive watches is constant. There is just something about the purity and a sense of purpose that will always keep the genre on my favorite list. When done right, as with the shape and size of Certina’s DS Super PH1000M STC, a touch of […] Visit Hands-On With The Certina DS Super PH1000M STC - A Dive Tool Done Right to read the full article.
Monochrome
In recent years, Swatch Group-owned brand Certina has demonstrated its capability of creating powerful, capable and nicely designed dive watches at fair prices. Take the example of the DS Super PH500M, the DS PH200M, or the DS Action Diver to understand my point. Last year, the brand pushed things even further with a watch drawing inspiration from […]
Fratello
The Summer Olympics will kick off in Paris in less than a month. Zenith has created the Defy Skyline Édition Paris to help celebrate the occasion. It uses a different style of dial, which may leave potential buyers wishing that this limited edition watch wasn’t only offered in France. Omega is the first brand that […] Visit Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris to read the full article.
Fratello
You’ve seen the Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time before but never in a two-tone look. Since Watches and Wonders 2024, there’s the reference 5520RG, a very complicated and exclusive travel watch in rose and white gold. The colorway might sound very 1990s, but the sunburst dial is very en vogue. Do we start with the […] Visit Monday Morning With The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520RG - A Two-Tone Grand Complication to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Following the original Pilot Majetek in stainless steel, Longines has unveiled the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition with a titanium case and a grey-tone livery. Modelled on the original majetek aviator’s watch supplied to the Czechoslovakian air force in the 1930s, the limited edition is identical to the stainless steel variation in terms of design, dimensions, and movement, but is lightweight thanks to the case metal but also unexpectedly pricey. The Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in grade 5 titanium Initial thoughts The Pioneer Edition is Longines’ third re-issue of the original. Longines didn’t quite get it right with the first remake, the Heritage 1935. It lacked the rotating bezel with a triangular marker that was one of the defining features of the original, and also had an awkwardly positioned date window at six and “automatic” on the dial. Last year’s Pilot Majetek in steel was not really a remake since it has a distinctly different case design, but still gained several refinements over the Heritage 1935. However, the Pioneer Edition is not really a tangible improvement over the steel model. Thought the titanium case does bring with it lightness as well as a muted grey finish that goes well with the design, it comes at a big price increase of almost 40% over the steel version. Such a large premium for a titanium case doesn’t make much sense today given the difference in cost of a case in either material is negligible for a big brand. The Arabic indices, a...
Quill & Pad
With the Aerodynamic, they Robot cleverly takes some of the design cues of the streamlined, air-cooled Tatra cars and incorporate them into the timepiece. The air vents are prominently displayed on the dial, and colored on this version in a beautiful hue of blue.
Monochrome
Audemars Piguet powerfully demonstrates the theory that “two is better than one” in the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, a coveted collector’s model with two balance wheels for increased chronometric precision and viewing pleasure. Following the recently released 37mm tone-on-tone gold version, AP proposes a trilogy of 41mm models in steel, black ceramic and […]
SJX Watches
For Ulysse Nardin, Watches & Wonders 2024 was all about the Freak S Nomad, which made its debut in a booth that featured a massive replica of the watch’s movement. While the Nomad is essentially just a new livery for an existing model, the aesthetic changes, which include a rotating guilloche dial, give the watch a sportier feel that suits the design. The Nomad is the second model in the Freak S collection after the original of 2022, and the latest in a long line of innovative watches that dates back to 2001. Interestingly, the Nomad is the first Freak to feature artisanal decoration, in the form of the guilloche dial, as compared to past models that have been more about technology than technique. Initial thoughts Mechanical watchmaking technology is fundamentally archaic, largely unchanged for more than a century. As a result, futuristically styled watches can easily come across as superficial. So it’s refreshing to consider the Nomad, which backs up its sci-fi styling with 21st-century materials and truly unique movement architecture that manages to be highly differentiated even a quarter-century after its launch. On paper, the Nomad is a large watch at 45 mm in diameter and 17 mm thick. Both of these numbers surprised me because after putting it on my wrist, it looks and feels smaller than it is. This is due, in part, to the lightweight titanium case, the muted colour palette, and the visual depth of the dial. Furthermore, the eye is naturally drawn to the central ...
Worn & Wound
I’ve always had a fascination for peeking behind the curtain. Whether it was tearing apart broken electronics, rebuilding car engines, or opening the caseback of my first Seiko, I’ve always wanted to see and know how things work. As I’ve gone deeper into the horology rabbit hole, I’ve become more interested in the physical process of assembling a movement. While I can watch any number of YouTube videos, there’s something special about seeing it done in person, especially when you get to watch a Grand Seiko Watchmaker at work. Last week, I was invited to Grand Seiko’s boutique for a live assembly of their new 9SA4 movement, a high-beat, manually wound high frequency movement featuring Grand Seiko’s proprietary dual impulse escapement and 80 hours of power reserve. If you’d like to learn more about the 9SA4 and how it was created from the 9SA5, Zach Kazan covers that in detail here. This event was hosted at Grand Seiko’s Madison Avenue boutique (we celebrated the grand opening of this boutique in March, click here for the recap article) which features a gorgeous open concept main level, and an intimate lower level they’ve dubbed “The Cellar”. Unlike any cellar I’ve ever been in, this lower level features multiple lounge spaces, a full bar, a dedicated presentation space and, of course, plenty of watches. You’ll also find various items of cultural significance from the towns surrounding the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, which inspire the design o...
Deployant
This week, we take a look at the dress watches. And our focus is on those released to date in 2024. Here are our picks for the six most impressive.
Monochrome
“Racing is life; anything that happens before or after is just waiting.” Famous words by Michael Delaney, Steve McQueen’s character in the legendary 1971 movie Le Mans. And while there’s far more to life than racing, to a Petrolhead, it does make absolute sense. It’s the thrill of fast-paced cars being pushed on winding roads […]
Fratello
One of the most whimsical timepieces we saw at Watches and Wonders this year was the Hautlence Retrovision ’47. Presented as a pièce unique for the fair, this watch is far from your regular timepiece. The design takes direct inspiration from a late-1940s radio built by General Television & Radio Corp. from Chicago. It certainly […] Visit Hautlence Introduces The Production Version Of The Remarkable Retrovision ’47 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
To celebrate its enduring legacy, Grand Seiko has re-created the original Grand Seiko model from December of 1960, and it is all the right kinds of vintage Japanese minimalist design that any self-respecting WIS would appreciate. The Grand Seiko 1960 Re-Creations are the essence of Grand Seiko.
Fratello
The H. Moser Streamliner just had its Haute Horlogerie chops dialed up to eleven. The result is a thoroughly modern and characterful watch that cannot be confused with anything other than a Moser. What we get is the familiar Streamliner case with its organically integrated bracelet and sterile dial. Don’t fret, though, because “sterile” does […] Visit Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon to read the full article.
Fratello
Quintessential, exclusive watchmaking is more than Swiss. Garrick is a brand we’ve covered before and one that has carved its path. With the new S3 MK2, Garrick offers, along with other European brands like Grönefeld, a studied alternative to timepieces from the Alpine valleys. With a range spanning three-handers like the S6 to the Regulator […] Visit Introducing: The Garrick S3 MK2 - Open-Worked Complexities With A Personalizable Twist to read the full article.
Monochrome
It’s hard to imagine that the record-setting and boundaries-pushing Bugatti Veyron has already been with us for close to two decades. After years of testing, teasing and fine-tuning this mindblowing hypercar, the EB 16.4 Veyron was officially unveiled in 2005, carrying a bonkers 8.0 litre quad-turbocharged W16 powerhouse of an engine in the back, producing […]
Fratello
The Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph debuted about two years ago. To set it on the right track, the watch came in black and blue panda versions in stainless steel. Now the Dutch-led brand of Swiss-made watches is introducing two new versions. One is a limited edition of 1,888 pieces in stainless steel with an opaline […] Visit Hands-On With Two New Versions Of Frederique Constant’s Highlife Chronograph to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Over the 20-odd years that GaryG has been buying “serious” watches, he has purchased more pieces bearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand name than any other, by far. Within the Jaeger-LeCoultre pantheon, one watch sub-group stands out for him: the Reverso. Between his wife and he, they've bought a total of seven Reverso models. Given that, why add another? In this instance, the Reverso Tribute to 1931?
Hodinkee
Infiltrating Britain's summer social scene to spot watches and style at its premier horse race.
Monochrome
Known for its countless (and often appealing) vintage re-editions, inspired by some glorious watches of the past, Longines last year relaunched an important historic pilot watch, the Czech Pilot watch known as “Majetek Vojenske Spravy” or more simply, the Pilot Majetek. A follow-up to a model of 2014, this re-introduction was done with style and […]
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