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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

The Hublot Yellow Gold collection is a return to the brand’s trailblazing roots Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Offshore Feb 17, 2022

The Hublot Yellow Gold collection is a return to the brand’s trailblazing roots

It’s hard to remember a time when ultra-luxe sport watches weren’t available on rubber. Today, buyers can choose from Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore, Zenith’s Defy, Rolex’s Daytona, and many more, but this wasn’t always the case. Pre-’80s, rubber straps were considered déclassé, far too casual for anything but a dive watch. But Hublot changed … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Yellow Gold collection is a return to the brand’s trailblazing roots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why do brands give their new watches such dumb names? Time+Tide
Feb 16, 2022

Why do brands give their new watches such dumb names?

Sometimes I encounter a watch that makes me think of Kim Jong-il. Let me explain. With more than 1,200 official titles, the North Korean dictator boasted more aliases than the average member of the Wu-Tang Clan. These included “Guardian Deity Of The Planet”, “Ever-Victorious General”, “Lodestar of the 21st Century”, “Eternal Bosom of Hot Love” … ContinuedThe post Why do brands give their new watches such dumb names? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Molnar Fabry Transforms a 19th Century Minute Repeater into a Wristwatch SJX Watches
Feb 16, 2022

Molnar Fabry Transforms a 19th Century Minute Repeater into a Wristwatch

Founded by a Slovakian duo who are both trained jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in elaborately decorated watches built on existing movements. Last year the pair reworked a Vaucher automatic calibre, but the brand’s latest project started life over a century ago. Echoing one of Molnar Fabry’s creations from 2018, the Grand Master Minute Repeater is essentially a pocket watch converted into a wristwatch. Starting out as a C.H. Meylan minute repeating pocket watch from 1901, the Grand Master features a hand-made case containing the pocket watch movement, which has been entirely refinished and extensively engraved. A close-up of the heavily decorated movement Initial thoughts Molnar Fabry does high quality work especially in terms of decoration, both for movement components and engraving. Their style is usual ornate, which might not be to everyone’s taste, but the brand has shown versatility in its past work, which has included more streamlined designs. The Grand Master is definitely ornate with its fully engraved case and movement. The quality and thoroughness of the work is impressive. And relatively to its ballpark price, the Grand Master is priced reasonably compared to what better-known makers in Switzerland would charge. But as with many pocket watch conversions, the Grand Master is a huge watch. The case is 47 mm by 14 mm. For anyone who likes their watches on this scale – and appreciates the skill that went into the decoration – the Grand Master is off t...

Bulgari flexes their mechanical mastery with new Octo Roma models Time+Tide
Bulgari flexes their mechanical mastery Feb 16, 2022

Bulgari flexes their mechanical mastery with new Octo Roma models

Bulgari has become increasingly known for their achievements in chasing down thinness records and contributing to the craze of integrated bracelet sports watches. Introduced in 2012 with its now synonymous round bezel framed by an octagon, the Octo is the brainchild of Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, head of watch design at Bulgari. The Octo Roma was … ContinuedThe post Bulgari flexes their mechanical mastery with new Octo Roma models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: An Engineer’s Technical and Personal Perspectives on Quartz Timekeeping SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Dumont Feb 14, 2022

In-Depth: An Engineer’s Technical and Personal Perspectives on Quartz Timekeeping

For an uncompromising mechanical watch enthusiast, one of the most dreaded words in the specifications of a watch is surely “quartz”. Oftentimes that dread is followed by the thought, if only it was mechanical… I must admit this went through my mind when I discovered the lovely Cartier Santos Dumont in 2019. And that was despite Cartier’s best efforts in communicating that the movement inside was a long-autonomy quartz calibre with a six-year battery life. The Cartier Santos Dumont trio, with only the XL variant (extreme left) being mechanical In the time since, I began to ponder the question: why do I seek the latest electronic gadgets, but am dismissive towards quartz watches? Just because quartz movements are often cheap and easily available, does that leave them uniformly uninteresting? The Quartz Crisis On Monday, December 29, 1969, tucked somewhere in the The New York Times was an eight-line paragraph that ended with “[the] world’s first electronic wrist watch with a crystal oscillator.” That electronic watch, as you may have guessed, was the Seiko Quartz-Astron. It was barely obvious at the time, but the announcement, innocuous as it was, would be the harbinger of a crisis for Swiss watchmaking. The father of all quartz watches, the Seiko Quartz-Astron 35SQ in 18K yellow gold The Quartz-Astron cost as much as a Toyota Corolla at the time of of its release – its price was equivalent to about US$1,200 – and was without a doubt a luxury product. Ov...

VIDEO: The 5 best gold watches of the last 12 months Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 58 Feb 12, 2022

VIDEO: The 5 best gold watches of the last 12 months

Warm, glowing, and oozing a charming luxury, who doesn’t love a cracking gold watch? Regardless of the tone or colour, whether it’s red, pink or even white, there’s just something special about its heft and lustre. Here are 5 of the best gold watches from this year. 1. Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K Gold … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 5 best gold watches of the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is the daddy of modern dive watches Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Feb 12, 2022

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is the daddy of modern dive watches

Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. Dive watches are among the … ContinuedThe post The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is the daddy of modern dive watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

UPDATE: New United States Presidential Watches Found And Added To Comprehensive Guide Hodinkee
Feb 11, 2022

UPDATE: New United States Presidential Watches Found And Added To Comprehensive Guide

Last President's Day, we released one of our most ambitious watch research projects to date: an attempt to catalog all known watches of U.S. Presidents. We knew that more watches would continue to come out of the woodwork, so we have collected a number of new watch discoveries here and have added them to the full guide. As always, please let us know if you happen to become aware of any U.S. President's watch we don't have listed.

Grand Seiko’s family tree grows with their new SLGH011 “Green Birch” Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s family tree grows Feb 11, 2022

Grand Seiko’s family tree grows with their new SLGH011 “Green Birch”

When the original Grand Seiko SLGH005 “White Birch” was first unveiled, I was overjoyed that their 9SA5 hi-beat caliber had made its way into the standard production caliber. It is a personal goal of mine to own a watch powered by this movement, which represents the pinnacle of their mechanical movement technology. But, as I … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko’s family tree grows with their new SLGH011 “Green Birch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse: The Dark Side Of Elegance Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie x Feb 10, 2022

H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse: The Dark Side Of Elegance

As the resident gentleman of Quill & Pad, the H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse should have Martin Green's name written all over it. Yet when he first saw the watch, he didn’t boil over with excitement. This is not the first logoless, minimalistic watch that Moser has made, so what does it add to what is already there? Read on to discover the answer.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 is smaller, sleeker in 42mm, and better optioned again Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 Feb 10, 2022

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 is smaller, sleeker in 42mm, and better optioned again

While some watch collectors may ‘pooh pooh’ smartwatches in general, ultimately it is the largest category of watches in the marketplace today. Sure, they may not possess the traditional glamour of mechanical watchmaking but their modern functionalities are extremely compelling to watch wearers around the world. The USP of the TAG Heuer Connected lineup has … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 is smaller, sleeker in 42mm, and better optioned again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” Time+Tide
Zenith x Revolution & Feb 10, 2022

Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl”

Zenith has been on a real hot-streak as of late, coming in strong for LVMH Watch Week with some very intriguing pieces such as the Defy Revival A3642, Defy Skyline collection, and Defy 21 Chroma among others. Whether heritage revivals, or next-generation collections, Zenith with each design continues to attract today’s buyers with their creations. While … ContinuedThe post Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Have IWC pulled off a masterstroke with teenage ski sensation Eileen Gu? Time+Tide
Hublot signed Novak Djokovic last Feb 9, 2022

Have IWC pulled off a masterstroke with teenage ski sensation Eileen Gu?

Sudden injuries, nosedives in form, squalid punch-ups in pub car-parks that are snapped by the tabloid press… Suffice to say when a watch brand picks a sporting ambassador it’s a decision fraught with risk.  When Hublot signed Novak Djokovic last August, for example, they were justified in their belief they were partnering with a “living … ContinuedThe post Have IWC pulled off a masterstroke with teenage ski sensation Eileen Gu? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived SJX Watches
Feb 8, 2022

The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived

Originally announced in 2018, the Leica L1 and L2 (now renamed ZM 1 and ZM 2) wristwatches have finally made it to market. Developed with the help of a German watchmaker but very much a proprietary product, the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are both powered by variants of the same cleverly constructed calibre that is an impressive debut for the camera maker’s horological venture. Initial thoughts The Leica watch has a restrained, Germanic aesthetic with interesting details, but more importantly an interesting, thoughtful movement. Developed from the ground up for Leica, the calibre features useful complications like a power reserve and hacking, zero-reset seconds, but executed in an unusual yet practical manner. At the same time, the patented pull crown is novel without sacrificing functionality. The design of the movement is also appealing, with its partially open-worked bridges cleverly exposing the key components of the going train and complications The watch is big, but not excessively large. Considering the size of the calibre, the case dimensions are acceptable. That said, this is the limit, any larger and the case would be enormous. It helps that the styling is attractively low key. The dial and case appear simple at a distance, but reveal their details up close. The hands and hour markers, for instance, echo each other, while the crowns are finely knurled. Leica also avoided a common pitfall of watches inspired by other technically-oriented industries, no doubt thanks to Achim H...

What’s Love Got To Do With It? Everything, Says Breguet With These 5 Stunning Watches Quill & Pad
Breguet Feb 7, 2022

What’s Love Got To Do With It? Everything, Says Breguet With These 5 Stunning Watches

Women have played a significant role in Breguet’s history, acting as inspiration or catalyst for some of the company’s most memorable timepieces – a phenomenon that continues today. So in 2018, when Breguet launched a timepiece in honor of St. Valentine’s Day, it was the start of an annual ode to love that has become as highly anticipated for watch lovers as the holiday itself. Here are all five of these limited edition timepieces.

Ball Engineering Hydrocarbon NEDU Chronograph Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Feb 7, 2022

Ball Engineering Hydrocarbon NEDU Chronograph Hands-on Review

What we love: Proper solid built watch overallClasp feel very secure on the wristGAS Tube Lume is sensational at night What we don’t love: Thickness, at 17.3mm some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Some may find the crown guard to be fiddlySome may find the Clasp can dig into the wrist Overall rating: 7.5/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 7/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Once upon a time, if you wanted a mid-priced automatic chronograph, chances are it’ll be powered by the ETA 7750 (or one of its close siblings), and the only choice really was the brand and the style. The movement was so ubiquitous that it was literally everywhere and fitted to almost everything. The dial layout was distinctive, and the rotor wobble was familiar, instantly giving away the engine within. Don’t get me wrong. This wasn’t a bad thing. The movement is a low key high achiever, easily running within COSC specs day in and day out without so much as breaking a sweat. It is a tough, durable, workhorse movement, designed from the beginning as an integrated chronograph, making it very efficient and the “almost 2 days” of power reserve is a testament to that fact. You might scoff at the power reserve but keeping in mind that this movement has been around since the 70s, largely unchanged, and 2 days was the norm for many decades. Plus, if you wear it every day, then it’s really a moot point. The only thing that might generate heated debate is how much value you attac...

The super-exclusive Tudor Black Bay that you’ve never seen before Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Feb 7, 2022

The super-exclusive Tudor Black Bay that you’ve never seen before

Editor’s note: There are a lot of watches out there and while we endeavour to stay across as many as we can, truth be told, some fly under the radar (fly being the operative word in this case). That’s why we were delighted when a Time+Tide reader, Edouard, informed us about a watch we’d never … ContinuedThe post The super-exclusive Tudor Black Bay that you’ve never seen before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.