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Hot Take: Rolex 1908 In Platinum With A Guilloché Dial Fratello
Rolex 1908 Apr 9, 2024

Hot Take: Rolex 1908 In Platinum With A Guilloché Dial

Last year at Watches and Wonders 2023, Rolex surprised most of us with the 1908 collection. This classical, formal line of watches in 18K yellow and white gold brought a new aesthetic to the brand. We also considered it something of an opening move. Rolex was taking aim at some of the established Haute Horlogerie […] Visit Hot Take: Rolex 1908 In Platinum With A Guilloché Dial to read the full article.

Hot Take: Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko 5 SNXS Series Celebrating Its Heritage Fratello
Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko Apr 4, 2024

Hot Take: Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko 5 SNXS Series Celebrating Its Heritage

The Japanese watchmaker has introduced a new series within the Seiko 5 family, which pays homage to the past but somehow feels very natural in the present. Seiko is one of those few brands for which an enthusiast can buy a very humble automatic watch. Or a mechanical marvel with very tight tolerances that competes […] Visit Hot Take: Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko 5 SNXS Series Celebrating Its Heritage to read the full article.

Washington, DC Area Watch Enthusiasts Come Together for District Time Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Formex Rado–while others are Mar 7, 2024

Washington, DC Area Watch Enthusiasts Come Together for District Time

District Time may need a new home. The Washington, DC watch fair was held for the sixth time at the start of March, and its record attendance made the District Architecture Center feel more cramped than it has in the past. Every bit of wall was lined with a booth showcasing an independent watch brand. Some are big enough or popular enough you might recognize the name–Christopher Ward, Formex, Rado–while others are true microbrands. “It’s grown a bit every year, minus the COVID years,” said Nate DeNicola, a contributor to one of the event’s organizers, the Time Bum. “One of the cool things about this year is there are a few established microbrands that are here for the first time. Bourbon out of New Orleans; Foliot out of New York; Dufrane from Austin, Texas. So it’s really become kind of the east coast watch show for a lot of these micro and independent brands.” DeNicola was there not just representing the Time Bum, but running the booth for another one of those microbrands: Bremoir, an Art Deco-inspired watch brand that takes design cues from 1920s American architecture. Watch fans are familiar with the major brands and their offerings, but events like District Time allow enthusiasts the chance to discover watchmakers they’d never heard of who are still providing high-quality products but have the flexibility to experiment more with their watches. Bremoir’s vintage design is unlike anything on the market right now, and it was difficult to even get th...

The February 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Caliber 3861 Fratello
Omega introduced Feb 27, 2024

The February 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Caliber 3861

In 2019, Omega introduced the hand-wound caliber 3861 in both Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary editions. Then, in 2020, the brand used it as the movement for the Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award edition with an automaton on the case back. One year later, Omega introduced an update of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, featuring a […] Visit The February 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Caliber 3861 to read the full article.

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 honours Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Monochrome
Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT Feb 5, 2024

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 honours Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary

This year marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko‘s introduction of the 9R movement, featuring its revolutionary Spring Drive technology. The concept, conceived in the 1970s and which took decades to implement, aimed to blend the force of a mainspring with electronic watchmaking technology and surpass the precision of conventional mechanical watches. Now, 9R-family calibres […]

Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Dec 5, 2023

Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen”

Citizen launched its flagship mechanical watch, the Caliber 0200, two years ago. Despite being better known for high-end quartz watches – including the most accurate ever – the  Japanese watchmaker managed an impressively executed three-handed sports watch, with an equally outstanding new movement. Now the model finally receives a mechanical upgrade with the Caliber 0210, which incorporates a date along with subtle improvements to the external design, while retaining the excellent case and bracelet that define the model. Initial thoughts The Caliber 0210 indicates the brand’s interest in further developing this excellent model – encouraging for fans of the model like myself. Despite the Caliber 0210 looking much like its predecessor, it is actually a substantially different watch in tangible terms. Ordinarily the addition of a date would be a no-no for a purist enthusiast, but here the date is integrated well in terms of dial proportions and (re)design. The appealing attributes of the Caliber 0200, and now the Caliber 0210, clearly mark the two out as watches conceived for a niche audience, namely enthusiasts who appreciate quality – and are able to distinguish this from the competition (Grand Seiko to state the obvious). However, this target audience often prefers the purity of a three-hand watch without a date. At the same time, this audience comprehends the substantive upgrades in the Caliber 0210 beyond the date – amongst them the improved case constructi...

A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More Worn & Wound
Tudor Oct 1, 2023

A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More

A Week In Watches returns this week with a look at a trio of divers that take their inspiration from the past, and apply in a thoroughly modern way. No faux lume or tropical dials in sight, prompting us to wonder if that trend is behind us. Divers from Oris, Tudor, and Seiko all paint a clear picture of a way forward that’s not a carbon copy of the past. You might say Seiko has always been ahead in that game, and their latest Prospex divers, which bring the 62MAS flavor into a tidy modern skindiver case that we’ve loved since it was released in 2020. If this is what we can expect more of, count us in. Elsewhere, Farer dropped a pair of new chronographs called the Chrono-Contempo with colorways inspired by two vibrant streets found in London. These are Farer through and through, with unexpected colors and a clean, modern design language. As usual, Farer nails the proportions here thanks to their use of the hand wound SW510M from Sellita. Finally, a collaboration between our friends at Fratello and Minase comes together for the second time, continuing a trend of subtle yet powerful dial executions from the pair. The latest is the M-3 Nori, and gets a dial inspired by Japanese seaweed, which comes together way better than you might expect. Here’s to the next one. The post A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Louis Erard and The Horophile Collaborate on a Sleek Art Deco Inspired Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Aug 29, 2023

Louis Erard and The Horophile Collaborate on a Sleek Art Deco Inspired Limited Edition

If you had told me a few weeks ago that Louis Erard’s new collaboration with Amr Sindi, AKA, The Horophile, would be an Art Deco inspired watch with a quite literal approximation of the Empire State Building within the handset, I probably would have let out an audible groan. Not because I don’t have faith in Louis Erard (their run of limited editions over the past few years is basically a parade of nonstop hits) or The Horophile (whose Instagram feed reveals his exceptional taste), but because it just all seems so on-the-nose. Art Deco inspired designs are a pretty niche interest in 2023, but calling out the Empire State Building, perhaps the single most well known symbol of the design and architecture movement as a major point of reference, seems to me like a recipe for something that you’d find in the building’s gift shop. Well, I should have known better. Because the new watch from Louis Erard is beautifully subtle, and surprisingly modern in its sensibility.  The Petite Seconde Metropolis incorporates a number of Art Deco hallmarks into a clean design that takes advantage of a Louis Erard platform that we’re starting to see used more frequently. As you might expect given the Art Deco themes, there was a large focus on the typeface used for the hours around the dial’s perimeter. Each numeral is very subtly “openworked,” and they’re presented in an uncommon circular fashion, which mimics the circular motif at the dial’s center. Importantly, these hou...

Louis Erard Debuts an Art Deco Collaboration SJX Watches
Louis Erard Debuts Aug 25, 2023

Louis Erard Debuts an Art Deco Collaboration

Louis Erard gained a cult following collaborations with partners ranging from independent watchmakers to industrial designers. Now, the brand has teamed up with Switzerland-based watch influencer Amr Sindi, better known by his Instagram handle The Horophile. Their project, the Le Petite Seconde Metropolis, draws direct inspiration from Art Deco with its clean, distinctive dial. Initial thoughts Following their recent collaboration at Raketa, it comes as no surprise that Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch (who’s also helping run Raketa) and Mr Sindi have once again united their creative forces. While deviating from the contemporary design accented by Mr Sindi’s trademark purple that characterised his past creations, the trio of timepieces represent a unique interpretation of 1920s style.  The watches evoke the era without being remakes of 1920s watches. They are distinctive yet unbranded, enabling the design to be conveyed clearly. Aside from the Art Deco hour numerals, there is absolutely no text on the dial whatsoever. In my view, this exemplifies how watch brands should design a retro watch, rather than simply generating a remake based on archives. While the dial is new, the rest of the watch is identical to the regular production model. That means a relatively thick case, which is the only major shortcoming of the design. The Le Petite Seconde Metropolis is priced at US$2,900, which is roughly in the same price range as the standard version of the model. Although the pr...

T3 Special Watches Introduces Dague Time Dragon and Dague Guilloché SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jul 4, 2023

T3 Special Watches Introduces Dague Time Dragon and Dague Guilloché

T3 Special Watches made its debut in 2021 with the Dague, a watch designed to embody the aesthetic preferences of its Italian founders, vintage watch dealer Andrea Marzari and watch aficionado Alessandro Poggi. Inspired by the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 and livened up with colourful, “Stella” style dials, the Dague has now been given an artisanal touch with the Dague Time Dragon and the Dague Guilloché. The newest iterations illustrate the brand’s ambitious attempts at fine enamelling and guilloché – the brand recruited noted enameller Vanessa Lecci for the cloisonné dial – techniques typically seen on pieces from more established brands.  Initial thoughts In the realm of micro-brands, it is uncommon to find traditional and artisanal guilloché and enamelling due to their high cost. Therefore, it was surprising to see T3 partnering with enameller Vanessa Lecci, renowned for her exceptional work for establishment brands like Cartier, Parmigiani Fleurier, Vacheron Constantin, and Voutilainen. The initial Dague series had a pleasant design that was not truly captivating for anyone not inclined towards a retro, Italian style. However, the new series showcases a significantly more compelling aesthetic. The enamelled dial of the Time Dragon, juxtaposed with the sector-styled outer disc, creates a visually striking contrast highly reminiscent of vintage watches with cloisonné dials made by Patek Philippe and Rolex. It would be exciting to witness the brand’...

HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42 Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 Jun 14, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42

The Longines Spirit lineup has become a go-to collection to recommend when someone asks what a great option would be for an entry-level Swiss luxury watch. The collection, now three years into its current generation, has seen quite rapid growth with a variety of aesthetic and functional configurations. Born initially in 2020 with 40mm and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC’s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono in rose gold is a luxe take on a tool watch Time+Tide
IWC s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono May 21, 2023

IWC’s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono in rose gold is a luxe take on a tool watch

All the rage at the IWC booth during the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders was the revamped Genta Ingenieur, and rightfully so, for the most part. This story, however, is not about the Ingenieur, but IWC’s bread and butter – pilot’s watches – and more specifically, the brand new Pilot’s Chronograph 41 in stunning … ContinuedThe post IWC’s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono in rose gold is a luxe take on a tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon Time+Tide
Apr 19, 2023

CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon

Since CODE41 released their X41 AeroCarbon back in 2020, I have viewed the independent brand as a champion for watch collectors. Since their foundation in 2016, they have pushed the boundaries of affordability by offering highly technical watches for a fraction of the big-name prices. With an emphasis on clear, honest communication about component cost … ContinuedThe post CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns Mar 27, 2023

The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style

The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech marks a return for the 40mm Radiomir case. The use of Goldtech and a white dial offers a modern and sophisticated take on the vintage-inspired watch. It’s also the thinnest watch in Panerai’s current lineup, at a cuff-friendly 10.15mm. This seems to be the year of the Radiomir for Panerai, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[Hands-On] The Bremoir Lexington, Art Deco Done Right Worn & Wound
Mar 2, 2023

[Hands-On] The Bremoir Lexington, Art Deco Done Right

One of the major principles of Art Deco design is to infuse beauty into functional, everyday objects and what better everyday object to do that with than a watch. Bremoir’s Lexington draws inspiration from the iconic Art Deco-styled Chrysler Building in NYC. Angled geometric patterns and intricate details throughout are easily traced from the watch directly back to the building. Whether it’s the angular applied indices or the stepped polished bezel, there’s a lot to take in, but it never seems like too much. What we have is a handsome 39mm watch that offers a nice break from modern design. As a fan of modern watches (mostly because of the lack of hassle) it’s especially nice to not have to go vintage to get the classic Art Deco styling seen on the Lexington. Let’s take a closer look at this unique new watch from Bremoir. $985 [Hands-On] The Bremoir Lexington, Art Deco Done Right Case Stainless Steel Movement Swiss STP 1-11 Automatic Dial Sector style with metallic finish Lume Super Luminova Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 50M Dimensions 39×48.5mm Thickness 10.7mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty Yes Price $985 Case It’s easy to trace the case geometry back to the design seen in the Chrysler Building, and it’s executed well. The tonneau-shaped case features some heavy polished bevels on the sides that carry down into the lugs. Vertical brushing on the sides provides some nice contrast to the polished portions. On the right side of the case...

VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster ’57 is a funtastic take on a classic Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster ’57 Oct 8, 2022

VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster ’57 is a funtastic take on a classic

The Omega Speedmaster is certainly deserving of being called an icon. I won’t bore you with its historical provenance, nor the space-dwelling efforts of the Professional – I’m sure you’ve heard it all. The Omega Speedmaster ’57 is what today is all about. While it still incorporates lots of vintage-inspired touches, the Speedmaster ’57 takes … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster ’57 is a funtastic take on a classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Why it took so long for the Vacheron Constantin 222 to make its comeback Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin 222 Jul 23, 2022

VIDEO: Why it took so long for the Vacheron Constantin 222 to make its comeback

For whatever reason, vintage reissues have become the undisputed rulers of watch releases. It almost doesn’t matter who the brand is or what they’re re-releasing, but if there’s history then there’s hype. But, when the brand is as lofty as Vacheron Constantin and the watch is as iconic as the reference 222, watch lovers are … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why it took so long for the Vacheron Constantin 222 to make its comeback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date green is a fine take on a gentleman’s sports watch Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date green May 18, 2022

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date green is a fine take on a gentleman’s sports watch

Re-introduced in 2018 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the original, the buzzing Memovox Polaris, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s alarm-equipped dive watch, combined vintage charm with modern technology. In 2022, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date gets a lick of green paint in a boutique-only release, continuing the long line of compressor-style watches by “the watchmaker’s watchmaker”. Seafaring chameleon dial … ContinuedThe post The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date green is a fine take on a gentleman’s sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mr Rolex reveals! The authoritative take on what’s about to drop… Time+Tide
Rolex reveals! Mar 29, 2022

Mr Rolex reveals! The authoritative take on what’s about to drop…

Rolex is the biggest watch brand on the planet and James Dowling knows more about it than practically anyone. Known as @misterrolex on Instagram, the veteran collector and journalist is the author of The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches and has even been referred to as a “Rolex scholar”. That’s why he’s the ideal man to … ContinuedThe post Mr Rolex reveals! The authoritative take on what’s about to drop… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Introduces the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armor” SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 23, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armor”

A year ago, Citizen debuted its first all new, high-end mechanical watch in decades, The Citizen Caliber 0200. A wristwatch par excellence, the Caliber 0200 was so good that it was one of our tops watches of 2021. Now Citizen is following up with the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armour”, the first limited edition of the model that’s available globally. Topped with a black ceramic bezel and textured dial, the samurai-inspired Caliber 0200 has a low-key aesthetic that still distinguishes it from the all-steel models. Initial thoughts Even though production hasn’t yet caught up with demand – there’s still a waiting list for the watch – the Caliber 0200 is still a niche product, just because it is a high-end, mechanical offering from a brand better known for its solar-powered or quartz watches, and mostly affordable ones at that. So a limited edition makes sense, since the small run will boost desirability and create buzz worldwide (Citizen did launch a 50-piece limited edition last year that was sold only in Japan). That said, the new edition is still very much a restrained design that’s almost monochromatic. It’ll be one of those watches that are recognised only by those in the know. Interestingly, both the new limited edition and the standard model stick to the same palette – grey, silver, and black – with the difference between the two being the quantity and intensity of each colour. On the limited edition, black becomes the dominant colour thanks to the ...

The NOVE Gemini is an elaborate alt take on a reversible-dial watch Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2022

The NOVE Gemini is an elaborate alt take on a reversible-dial watch

Oversaturation is real in the world of microbrands. Just count how many vintage or retro-inspired $300 dive watches you see scrolling through the pages on Kickstarter, and you’ll know exactly what I mean. This is why true novelty with substance can rarely be found, as those claiming to offer it often lean the wrong side … ContinuedThe post The NOVE Gemini is an elaborate alt take on a reversible-dial watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” Time+Tide
Zenith x Revolution & Feb 10, 2022

Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl”

Zenith has been on a real hot-streak as of late, coming in strong for LVMH Watch Week with some very intriguing pieces such as the Defy Revival A3642, Defy Skyline collection, and Defy 21 Chroma among others. Whether heritage revivals, or next-generation collections, Zenith with each design continues to attract today’s buyers with their creations. While … ContinuedThe post Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OWNER’S REVIEW: a month in with the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki Time+Tide
Rolex Jul 22, 2021

OWNER’S REVIEW: a month in with the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki

At this stage in my collection I look for variety. Truth be told, I have already ticked a lot boxes: a stainless-steel professional Rolex, a high-horology watch with exquisite hand-finishing, divers, GMTs, chronographs etc, so it is hard for me to justify buying more and more of the same. One example: I love the new … ContinuedThe post OWNER’S REVIEW: a month in with the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: BND Watches show less is more with a minimalist take on the tool watch Time+Tide
Jul 18, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: BND Watches show less is more with a minimalist take on the tool watch

The elephant in the room needs to be addressed, are we reaching Peak Retro? Do you feel a pang of frustration by yet another vintage-inspired diver popping up in your Watchville feed, with a fumé-ish dial, sapphire-tough bezel insert and killer lume trying way too hard to capture your heart? Well, I admit that feeling … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: BND Watches show less is more with a minimalist take on the tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.