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In-Depth: The Genius Behind the Audemars Piguet Universelle RD#4 Ultra-Complication SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Universelle RD#4 Ultra-Complication Compl... Jan 22, 2024

In-Depth: The Genius Behind the Audemars Piguet Universelle RD#4 Ultra-Complication

Complicated watches are crucial to Audemars Piguet’s history, starting from its establishment in 1875 to the modern day; Audemars Piguet (AP) even supplied “ultra” complication movements to other brands in the late 19th and early 20th century. But it was in 2022 that the brand debuted its most impressive complicated watch – arguably the most impressive ever – the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4. “Ultra” complications with multiple functions are de rigueur for important watch brands, from Patek Philippe to F.P. Journe, so the Universelle RD#4 is unsurprising given the status of Audemars Piguet as one of the traditional “holy trinity” of Swiss watchmaking. The Universelle RD#4 is surprising, however, in its execution. The Universelle RD#4 is not merely another oversized and extremely complicated watch. Instead it has been thoughtfully designed to be unexpectedly user-friendly and wearable. In fact, the slim and sophisticated construction of its cal. 1000 is as much of an accomplishment as the long list of complications it offers. Put another way, the cal. 1000 is a masterclass in achieving the right balance between complexity, usability, and wearability. The historical Universelle pocket watch from 1899 in the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet that served as inspiration for its modern-day namesake An overview The Universelle RD#4 is an “ultra” complication – there’s no other way to describe it. The watch ticks the boxe...

The Louis Moinet Impulsion Onyx Is A Showpiece Tourbillon Chronograph Fratello
Louis Moinet Impulsion Onyx Jan 21, 2024

The Louis Moinet Impulsion Onyx Is A Showpiece Tourbillon Chronograph

Louis Moinet (1768–1853) was the inventor of the chronograph, so it’s always intriguing to examine the newest releases from the brand that bears his name. Today, we’ll look into the Impulsion Onyx, the latest variant within a line that debuted in 2023. This is an elegant watch with a sporty twist and a serious dose […] Visit The Louis Moinet Impulsion Onyx Is A Showpiece Tourbillon Chronograph to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Formex Reef 39.5mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Fratello
Formex Reef 39.5mm Vs Seiko Jan 21, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Formex Reef 39.5mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! We hope you woke up with a nice cup of coffee this Sunday morning and are ready to vote for your favorite watch in this week’s battle of the divers. This week, it’s going to be like David versus Goliath. In one corner, we have the new Formex Reef […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Formex Reef 39.5mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster to read the full article.

New: Panerai Luminor Due PAM01424 Burgundy Deployant
Panerai Luminor Due PAM01424 Burgundy Jan 20, 2024

New: Panerai Luminor Due PAM01424 Burgundy

The Panerai Luminor Due was a collection which was first introduced in 2017, as the mid-sized, unisex Luminor model. The movement then was designated as the OP XXXIV which is assumed to have been renamed the P.900 caliber which is now found inside the new Due. The 42mm case Luminor Due bears the same crown guard as the iconic Luminor Marina, but with only 50m water resistance. Its slim profile and polished case is a marked stylistic variation from the original dive watch. The new dial color adds a nice statement to the hybrid classic timepiece.

Christie’s Is Auctioning Part Of Sir Elton John’s Eclectic Watch Collection Fratello
Jan 20, 2024

Christie’s Is Auctioning Part Of Sir Elton John’s Eclectic Watch Collection

Now, I have to admit, when I signed up to write for Fratello, I did not expect to ever write about Sir Elton John. But here we are! Granted, it’s for a good reason. Christie’s is auctioning a plethora of items from his Atlanta mansion, including a watch collection. And what a watch collection it […] Visit Christie’s Is Auctioning Part Of Sir Elton John’s Eclectic Watch Collection to read the full article.

Breaking Down The Brand Zenith: The Watch Brand That Could Have Been Bigger Than Rolex Fratello
Citizen s Jan 20, 2024

Breaking Down The Brand Zenith: The Watch Brand That Could Have Been Bigger Than Rolex

When you read the name Zenith, what comes to mind? Radios? Televisions? Well, at one point in its history, the watch brand Zenith was owned by the Zenith Radio Corporation of America, so that’s not completely weird, especially if you’re American. But for non-US citizens and, in particular, watch-focused ones, Zenith means El Primero - […] Visit Breaking Down The Brand Zenith: The Watch Brand That Could Have Been Bigger Than Rolex to read the full article.

Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Review Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet Jan 19, 2024

Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Review

Raymond Weil, founded in 1975 by its eponym and now owned and operated by the Bernheim family, is one of only a handful of independently owned Swiss watchmaking companies, alongside historic, prestigious maisons like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The Geneva-based company, however, occupies a different niche than those two high-horology powerhouses, having firmly established itself as a purveyor of “affordable luxury”  - producing well-designed watches with wide appeal that nevertheless rarely gain attention in the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. That all changed in 2023, however, when the sublimely refined design of the brand’s Millesime Small Seconds model took the coveted Challenge award in the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève (GPHG), the watch world’s equivalent of the Oscars. With its sober but meticulously embellished sector dial and slender case, the watch represents a throwback to a style of understatedly elegant dress watch that few seem to be making anymore. I had a chance to wear one for a couple weeks for a hands-on review. (To get Teddy's video take on the watch on our dedicated Reviews channel, click here.) Case: The round stainless steel case of the Millesime (the term comes from the world of fine wine, and appropriately translates to “vintage”) will settle perfectly into many enthusiasts’ sweet spot, at 39mm in diameter, and its thickness of just under 11mm (10.9mm, to be super-precise) will ensure that it set...

Introducing: The New Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Series II Fratello
Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Jan 19, 2024

Introducing: The New Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Series II

British watchmaking has carved out a niche for itself thanks to a handful of strong brands leading the pack. And with the newest versions of the Fears Brunswick 40, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill attempts a daring feat. Together with top US retailer Topper, we are treated to a blend of Californian nature and British watchmaking. Many small […] Visit Introducing: The New Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Series II to read the full article.

A Studio Underd0g April Fool’s Joke Becomes a Reality, Proving that Everyone Loves a Pizza Party Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g April Fool’s Joke Becomes Jan 19, 2024

A Studio Underd0g April Fool’s Joke Becomes a Reality, Proving that Everyone Loves a Pizza Party

What do Canned Unicorn Meat, a Tauntaun Sleeping Bag, an Apple Store Playmobil set with optional Line Pack, and the Studio Underd0g 01 SERIES Chronograph Pepper0ni have in common? All of these were introduced first as April Fool’s pranks before eventually transforming into real products (except the Apple Store Playmobil set - still a little mad at that one never making the leap). Back in the halcyon days of the internet, ThinkGeek specialized in this sort of April Fool’s nonsense. Today, Studio Underd0g is joining forces with Time+Tide to bring a little bit of that fun back. You may remember that back in April, Studio Underd0g founder Richard Benc (with some help from Time+Tide’s Andrew McUtchen) released a teaser video for another in the brand’s line of food-inspired watches. But where previous releases like the Watermel0n, Strawberries & Cream, or Pink Lem0nade have been mostly content to draw their bright color palettes from eponymous inspirations, the Pepper0ni promised a more… overt take on its namesake. While it quickly became apparent that the idea of a pizza-inspired 01SERIES Chronograph was meant as a one-off gag to celebrate the internet’s favorite holiday, apparently a huge number of you pizza/watch enthusiasts reached out asking after the watch. Now, nine months later, what was once a joke has become a reality - well, actually, two realities - because the real-life version of the Pizza Party chronograph comes in two distinct flavors: Pepper0n...

Hands-on - The Rectangular Moritz Grossmann Corner Stone in Rose Gold Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Corner Stone Jan 19, 2024

Hands-on - The Rectangular Moritz Grossmann Corner Stone in Rose Gold

In 2019, Moritz Grossmann ventured into the scarcely populated territory of rectangular watches, unveiling three dial variants in five different versions as part of the Art Deco-inspired and appropriately named Corner Stone series. The Corner Stone featured a specially designed shaped calibre with a central hour and minutes display and a small seconds sub-dial at […]

Breguet Introduces an Atypical Classique for the Year of the Dragon SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jan 19, 2024

Breguet Introduces an Atypical Classique for the Year of the Dragon

Continuing a recent streak of unusual designs that depart from its traditional formality, Breguet is marking the Chinese Lunar New Year with the Classique “Dragon” ref. 7145BR. Unlike last year’s “Rabbit” edition that was a whimsical ladies’ watch, this year’s Chinese zodiac edition is an ultra-thin men’s watch with a surprisingly vivid and figurative enamel dial in two shades of red. Initial thoughts A dragon-themed watch is not unexpected, and Breguet joins brands like Vacheron Constantin and Blancpain in launching such watches for the Lunar New Year. The watch itself, however, is a radical departure from the usual Breguet style in both colour and execution. Even though there are enough elements on the dial to mark it out as a Breguet, the aesthetic is more elaborate than the average Breguet, which tends towards classical restraint. Even though it is different, I like this approach because it offers something new in terms of aesthetics. That said, the engraved dragon appliqué isn’t exactly right in terms of design. The creature is too stout and lacks the slender proportions of the dragon as portrayed in Classical Chinese art. The overall aesthetic would have been much improved with a restyled dragon. The execution is in the high quality expected of Breguet, so the dragon is solid gold and the dial is grand feu enamel. As a result, the price is US$77,800, significantly greater than the standard Classique 5157, but within the ballpark for such metiers d...

Introducing - The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar SRPK75 & SRE014 with Gradient Dials Monochrome
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Jan 19, 2024

Introducing - The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar SRPK75 & SRE014 with Gradient Dials

Not a habitual fountain of inspiration, the dials of Seiko’s Presage Cocktail Time watches are inspired by Japan’s famous cocktail culture. If cocktails might not strike you as a typical Japanese product, the scenes filmed in the skyscraper bar of Lost in Translation reveal how consolidated the cocktail scene is in Tokyo and the extreme […]

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00 Worn & Wound
Rolex   Jan 18, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00

I think there’s a certain trajectory to watch collecting that the vast majority of enthusiasts will be familiar with. It’s been discussed at length, and might even represent something of a self fulfilling prophecy at this point. It goes something like this: you start out with the fan favorite affordables, dabble in big Swiss brands that take a depreciation hit and can be found readily on enthusiast buy/sell/trade platforms, discover the insane variety and value of microbrands, and then eventually, if it’s a brand that has meant something to you before you even knew that watch collecting was a thing, you wind up at Rolex.  This is vastly oversimplified of course, but a version of this has happened to me and many collectors I know personally. Muy own observation though is that it’s what happens next that really determines where you go in the hobby. Because there’s a path where you just keep acquiring Rolex sports watches like Pokemon. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with that – they are objectively excellent watches to own. But I think a certain number of collectors have a Tony Soprano, late season 6 moment sometime after picking up that GMT-Master or Submariner, and ask themselves: is this all there is? $8000 Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00 Case Titanium Movement Schwarz-Etienne ASE200 Dial Plum Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 40.7 x 49mm Thickness 11.6mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Ye...

British Watchmakers’ Day is Coming, Along with a Very Limited Christopher Ward Bel Canto Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Bel Canto Christopher Ward Jan 18, 2024

British Watchmakers’ Day is Coming, Along with a Very Limited Christopher Ward Bel Canto

Christopher Ward, a founding brand of the Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers, is gearing up for a significant presence at the British Watchmakers’ Day on March 9th, 2024, hosted at Lindley Hall in London. The focal point of their participation is the exclusive release of the Bel Canto 9324, a limited edition of only 10 pieces, that will be auctioned off using a raffle system during the event.  What makes this particular model unique is two-fold. The first being a laser-etched Union Jack on its platine, which was then given a deep blue color treatment with elaborate decorative touches, including polishing as well as Clous de Paris and Finque guilloche patterns. The second being that this is the first time Roman numerals have been used on a Bel Canto.  All profits generated from the sale of these exclusive timepieces will be directly donated to The Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers.  British Watchmakers’ Day serves as a platform to showcase the finest in British horology. Attendees can anticipate exploring the latest releases from renowned brands, engaging with the creators behind these timepieces, and gaining valuable insights into the artistry and innovation that defines the British watchmaking landscape. In addition to Christopher Ward, many of the brands we cover here on Worn & Wound will be in attendance, including Fears, Farer, and Studio Underd0g. You can find out more about British Watchmakers’ Day here. And if you can’t make it, watch this ...

Exploring WatchCharts Marketplace, a New Watch Sales Platform Backed by Historical Pricing Data Worn & Wound
Jan 18, 2024

Exploring WatchCharts Marketplace, a New Watch Sales Platform Backed by Historical Pricing Data

An all too common refrain from watch collectors is that the experience of buying a watch can be something of a headache. While you might be wined and dined if you buy directly from the boutique of a high end luxury brand, the reality is that most of us are hounding forums and enthusiast marketplaces trying to score a deal. But with the open market comes a lot of uncertainty. How do you know if you’re getting a good deal? And how do you know if the person you’re chatting with is going to send you more than an empty box?  The WatchCharts Overall Market Index as of 1/17/24 WatchCharts, the watch market research platform whose primary goal is to bring price transparency to watch consumers, recently launched their own buying and selling platform that seeks to alleviate some of the stress. There are a lot of buying and selling platforms for watches, so the addition of one more to the growing matrix of watch shopping options isn’t necessarily newsworthy, but the involvement of WatchCharts adds a new wrinkle to something that is so familiar to watch collectors that it’s part of the very fabric of the hobby. On the surface, WatchCharts Marketplace looks like any other buy/sell/trade platform. But under the hood, it’s leveraging WatchCharts data that collectors who use the platform will already be familiar with. “We’ve dedicated the better part of five years to collecting, analyzing, and understanding watch market pricing and trends,” said WatchCharts founder Charle...

#TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch Fratello
Victorinox Knife Watch Even though Jan 18, 2024

#TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch

Even though it feels like wearing a bar of chocolate on your wrist, the Sicura Safari knife watch is a pure wonder. It had been a long time since I put it on my wish list, and I finally got one. I really thought it would be much easier to find it… I was wrong. […] Visit #TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch to read the full article.

First Look - The New Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Collection Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Collection Jan 18, 2024

First Look - The New Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Collection

Hamilton has a particularly rich history in the production of rugged tool watches. Starting with high-precision pocket watches for railroad companies in the late 19th and early 20th century, Hamilton went on to supply the U.S. Armed Forces and Navy in both World Wars with marine chronometers and robust wristwatches. With the advent of aviation, […]

Industry News - Richemont Reports Sales up by 8% For Third Quarter, Jewellery Taking the Lead over Watches Monochrome
Cartier IWC JLC Jan 18, 2024

Industry News - Richemont Reports Sales up by 8% For Third Quarter, Jewellery Taking the Lead over Watches

Switzerland-based luxury conglomerate Richemont Group has just issued its trading update for the nine months ended 31 December 2023. The group, which includes brands such as Cartier, IWC, JLC and Vacheron, reports sales up by 8% at constant exchange rates and by 4% at actual exchange rates to EUR 5.6 billion for the last quarter […]

Jaeger-LeCoultre Slims Down the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Slims Down Jan 18, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Slims Down the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve

Jaeger-LeCoultre begins the new year with an enhanced version of one of its signature watches, the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve. While largely maintaining the design of the existing model, the new variant has a new look with a pink gold case, more cohesive styling and most notably, an upgraded movement with silicon parts and a longer power reserve. Initial thoughts Although present in the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) catalogue for over two decades in one form or another, the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve doesn’t get as much attention as its Master collection siblings, not to mention the famed Reverso. However, given the brand’s historical status as a vertically-integrated movement maker, the new Master Power Reserve plays to the JLC’s strengths since it retains the familiar design while installing all-new mechanics in the form of the cal. 938.  The update is a practical one, since the new calibre has a longer power reserve of three days. However, the update is not an accessible one from a price perspective, since this enhancement is currently exclusive to this boutique-only pink gold version and has not been extended to the steel model. The update will almost certainly make its way into the more affordable model some time in the future, so it’s a matter of waiting. JLC was historically known for its value-oriented pricing, an edge that has been dulled somewhat in recent years as its prices have crept upwards. This watch illustrates that, even if it is still priced ...