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The G-SHOCK of Fountain Pens: the Pilot Varsity Worn & Wound
Seiko May 29, 2024

The G-SHOCK of Fountain Pens: the Pilot Varsity

Without a doubt, my favorite pen is the LAMY AL-Star. I could (and very well might) write paragraphs about this incredible fountain pen - something which would be an absolute joy, thanks in large part to the lovely experience the LAMY offers - but that’s not the pen I’m here to talk about today. That’s because, despite my fondness for the iconic AL-Star, it is not the pen I use most. It’s not even the fountain pen I use the most. No, that honor goes to the humble Pilot Varsity disposable fountain pen. I would categorize the LAMY AL-Star (and its remarkably similar sibling, the Safari) as the Seiko of fountain pens. Like a Seiko, it is often cited as a great first fountain pen for people looking to try something outside the typical rollerballs and ballpoints we see everyday. Also like a Seiko, the LAMY is a gateway pen, one which often leads to other more expensive options. The LAMY could easily be the one pen with which you live your entire life. For a totally reasonable amount of money, anyone could be happy with a LAMY, just as anyone could be happy with a Seiko SPB Diver. The AL-Star’s got everything you need, and nothing you don’t. It’s well-made, well-designed, and comes in so many variations that it would be hard not to find one that suits your taste. Pen collectors I know who have pens many multiples (sometimes many, many) the value of the LAMY still frequently cite it as one of their favorites. But if the LAMY is the Seiko of fountain pens, then t...

Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos Fratello
Hermes May 29, 2024

Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos

The Hermès Cut debuted in April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. That’s why we were quite surprised when we received an invite from Hermès for a press trip organized around this new watch. Usually, trips like this are organized in advance to focus everyone’s attention on the novelty. It’s also common that the program […] Visit Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos to read the full article.

First Look – Louis Erard Unveils its First Regulator with a Grand Feu Enamel Dial Monochrome
Louis Erard Unveils May 29, 2024

First Look – Louis Erard Unveils its First Regulator with a Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Louis Erard pursues its mission of delivering traditional handmade decorative techniques at accessible prices. Usually the preserve of top-tier brands, dials decorated with métiers d’art techniques like guilloché or enamel command hefty prices. Luckily, Louis Erard thinks differently and is determined to offer its appreciative public original watches with beautifully executed dials that won’t break the […]

Louis Erard Unveils Affordable “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin May 29, 2024

Louis Erard Unveils Affordable “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator

Though Louis Erard is best known for its high-profile collaborations with independent watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Cédric Johner, the brand’s specialty is making interesting watchmaking accessible. Its signature complication is the regulator display complication, which has served as the foundation for several limited editions. The brand continues to do that with the Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel, a regulator wristwatch featuring a two-part fired enamel dial in striking ivory. Initial thoughts The new release has a subtle ivory dial produced in a traditional manner, resulting in a glossy, nuanced finish feel evocative of dials usually found on pricier timepieces. Its contemporary typeface and numerals complements minimalist style. Dial aside, the latest regulator is identical to the standard model and contains the same Sellita calibre. As a result, despite the elegant styling, it’s a chunky watch that’s almost 14 mm thick. Nevertheless, this keeps the Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel affordable at CHF4,400, which is strong value considering that most watches with such dials cost at least twice as much. Ivory enamel Louis Erard once again turned to Donzé Cadrans, the enamel dial specialist owned by Ulysse Nardin, for this grand feu enamel dial. Unsurprisingly Donzé was also the supplier for the ivory enamel dial in Excellence Email Grand Feu in 2021.  The time-only Excellence Email Grand Feu The production of grand feu enamel dials has a high rejection...

The Red Arrows Celebrate Their 60th Display Season With Two New Breitling Avenger Watches Fratello
Breitling Avenger Watches Even if May 29, 2024

The Red Arrows Celebrate Their 60th Display Season With Two New Breitling Avenger Watches

Even if you’re not a plane spotter or an aviation enthusiast, the name Red Arrows might very well ring a bell. The Red Arrows are the RAF’s legendary aerobatic display team that is celebrating its 60th display season this year. What better way to so do than with accurate formation flying, synchronized barrel rolls, and […] Visit The Red Arrows Celebrate Their 60th Display Season With Two New Breitling Avenger Watches to read the full article.

First Look – New High-End Breguet Marine Chronograph 5529 & Dame 9518 Monochrome
Breguet Marine Chronograph 5529 & May 29, 2024

First Look – New High-End Breguet Marine Chronograph 5529 & Dame 9518

The words ‘contemporary’ and ‘sporty’ are hard to apply to Breguet, but barring the aviation-inspired Type 20, the Marine collection is as close as you’ll get to a luxury sports watch collection inspired by the brand’s legitimate and longstanding maritime ties. Introduced in 1990 and refreshed over the decades, Breguet’s sporty Marine collection welcomes two […]

Manufacture Visit: Thomas Explores The Vallée De Joux With Jaeger-LeCoultre Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre One May 29, 2024

Manufacture Visit: Thomas Explores The Vallée De Joux With Jaeger-LeCoultre

One of the perks of this job is that we get to see where and how watches are made. I love a good manufacture visit as it provides context for the watches, allowing a look into the places and people behind them. It also provides comparability between brands. Once you have a couple of these […] Visit Manufacture Visit: Thomas Explores The Vallée De Joux With Jaeger-LeCoultre to read the full article.

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Duality No. 3 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Offshore models selling easily May 29, 2024

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Duality No. 3

The most significant example of independent watchmaking in Phillips’ upcoming New York sale is Philippe Dufour Duality no. 3 in white gold. One of just nine made, this Duality is unusual in several respects. For one, it is delivered with two dials, each representing one of Mr Dufour’s trademark style – silvered and a white lacquer resembling enamel. Besides being an exceptionally rare watch, this Duality is also significant for its provenance: the current owner is both a gentleman and a collector with a discerning eye. In fact, he recognised the importance and appeal of the Duality well before most others did. At the time he bought this watch, now almost 20 years ago, a Philippe Dufour Simplicity was selling for barely more than a Lange Datograph. In fact, there were sought-after Panerai and Audemars Piguet Offshore models selling easily for more than a Simplicity. The owner’s discerning and forward-thinking taste in watches can also be inferred from his other watches in the sale. Amongst them is an F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain ref. TN – with a special-order 38 mm case instead of the conventional 40 mm, as well as a matched, three-piece set of the F.P. Journe Vagabondage in platinum. A tribute to the Vallée Launched in 1996, the Duality is one of the two landmark double balance wheel watches in contemporary watchmaking, alongside the F.P. Journe Resonance that debuted four years later. While the Resonance is arguably more abstract and inventive in its concep...

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention Worn & Wound
Breguet s Genius May 28, 2024

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention

Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this second installment, Andrew examines the life and career of Abraham-Louis Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon and many other important watchmaking advancements. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster.  Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823) was a designer, inventor, and watchmaker. Being a master craftsman in the field of watchmaking earned him a prestigious clientele that included Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, alongside other international nobility, and the elegance and technical innovations of his designs were considered the height of style and fashion. Portrait of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Image courtesy of Manufacture Breguet Breguet was born in Neuchâtel on the 10th January 1747, but it was in Paris that he spent most of his productive life. He is credited with the development of the successful self-winding perpétuelle watches, the introduction of the gongs for repeating watches, the first shock-protection for balance pivots and of course the tourbillon. Every watch that left his workshops demonstrated the latest horological improvements in an original movement, mostly fitted with lever or ruby-cylinder escapements that he perfected. He was a great entrepreneur and marketed his magnificent watches brilliantly. Perhaps his most ...

Introducing – New Porsche Design Custom-Built Watches For the New Hybrid Porsche 911 Generation 992.2 Monochrome
Porsche Design Custom-Built Watches May 28, 2024

Introducing – New Porsche Design Custom-Built Watches For the New Hybrid Porsche 911 Generation 992.2

Today is an important moment in the history of a 60-year iconic sports car. The new generation of Porsche 911, dubbed 992.2, has just been revealed and, as anticipated, it comes with hybrid power. Not full hybrid, but more of an electric assistance to boost the performances. What will it give on the road…? That […]

First Look – MB&F; Raises the Complication Stakes with the Improved LM Sequential Flyback Platinum Monochrome
MB&F; May 28, 2024

First Look – MB&F; Raises the Complication Stakes with the Improved LM Sequential Flyback Platinum

The aphorism “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is not often used by watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, the mastermind behind MB&F;’s most complex timepieces enhanced with his innovative technological breakthroughs. Responsible for the 2015 LM Perpetual and the LM Sequential EVO, fans of MB&F;’s wonderful watches will be delighted to learn that Stephen McDonnell is […]

The MB&F; LM Sequential Upgraded with a Flyback SJX Watches
MB&F; May 28, 2024

The MB&F; LM Sequential Upgraded with a Flyback

In 2022 MB&F; launched its first ever chronograph, the LM Sequential EVO. A twin-chronograph constructed by Stephen McDonnell, it was a clever reinterpretation of the split-seconds function. Today MB&F; upgrades the concept with the LM Sequential Flyback Platinum that boasts a revised movement incorporating an additional flyback function.  Initial thoughts The LM Sequential Flyback is certainly polarising in terms of style and technique, like most MB&F; creations. The original Sequential EVO was praised for its exceptional and creative movement construction, though the utility of the twin chronograph was debated. The LM Sequential Flyback now adds a flyback function to the package, which may seem excessive. But that misses the point: the question of utility needn’t be answered nor asked. Such a timepiece goes far past the realm of practicality and needs to be judged simply by what it is: an incredible concept painstakingly executed. We already explored in detail how Mr McDonnell implemented the Twinverter system of double chronographs mechanisms while making the complex movement chronometrically-potent, despite the obvious challenges. I recommend reading the original story, as it thoroughly explains the beautiful mechanical subtleties of the watch. In the original Sequential EVO, the layered and complex construction of the movement meant the flyback function couldn’t be reliably implemented. Mr McDonnell ultimately dropped the idea and focused on perfecting the rest of t...

Bell & Ross Adds a Two-Tone Option to their Popular BR 03 Range Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Adds May 27, 2024

Bell & Ross Adds a Two-Tone Option to their Popular BR 03 Range

Bell & Ross is continuing to fill out their updated BR 03 collection with new references to accommodate the subtly smaller case they introduced last year. Brad Homes went hands-on with the new, more refined case right here, and found the differences to be small, but an overall improvement. It’s important not to underestimate either the scope of the change for Bell & Ross or the potential impact small adjustments can have on a watch case, particularly when you’re dealing with a square design like the BR 03. Bell & Ross fans (I’m raising my hand here) have strong feelings about their iconic square case designs, so any small adjustment is going to be met with the kind of intense critique that can only come from an enthusiast community. It seems, though, that the updates have been well received, and the latest addition, the BR 03 White Steel & Gold, brings a very different flavor to traditional tool watch design.  The stated goal of the White Steel & Gold reference is to bring a more sophisticated look to the BR 03 line, one that is, in Bell & Ross terms, “both urban and elegant.” While we still have the vague outline of an aviation inspired tool watch, the details come from an entirely different place. The bezel is rendered in rose gold, and the crisp opaline dial has matching gold tone accents. While the gold is likely the design characteristic that will draw most to the watch initially, the dial appears to have a very fine texture and character to it that could w...

Portrait – Finnish Two-Man Show Vuollé Watches Impresses With The KURIMUS Monochrome
May 27, 2024

Portrait – Finnish Two-Man Show Vuollé Watches Impresses With The KURIMUS

Scandinavian design is often laureled for its simplicity and functionality, but in watches, that doesn’t always seem to stick. Finnish independent watchmaking stars like Stepan Sarpaneva are mostly known for more intricate and expressive watches with striking appearances. Stemming from “the land of a thousand lakes” now comes a new brand, that on surface seems […]

Zodiac Introduces The Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver With A Full-Lume Dial Fratello
Zodiac Introduces May 27, 2024

Zodiac Introduces The Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver With A Full-Lume Dial

Recently, Zodiac and RedBar released a special edition of the Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver. This 200-piece LE introduced a full-lume dial and harked back to Zodiac’s Point series from the 1990s. Those watches were instantly recognizable by the red dot on the dial between the 4 and 5 o’clock markers. As a follow-up to the […] Visit Zodiac Introduces The Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver With A Full-Lume Dial to read the full article.

News – IWC Unveils Ceralume, The First Fully Luminous Ceramic Watch (Spotted at Monaco GP on Lewis!) Monochrome
IWC Unveils Ceralume May 27, 2024

News – IWC Unveils Ceralume, The First Fully Luminous Ceramic Watch (Spotted at Monaco GP on Lewis!)

The use of luminescent materials on watches is far from new… Soon after the discovery of radium and its properties (and dangers…) by Marie and Pierre Curie in 1898, watch dials – markers, numerals and hands – have been coated with radium and then different substances (tritium, Super-LumiNova) to produce light in the dark. Fully […]

Introducing: The Stealthy Allure Of The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ.5 Label Noir Limited Edition Fratello
May 27, 2024

Introducing: The Stealthy Allure Of The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ.5 Label Noir Limited Edition

If you haven’t heard that term before, that makes two of us, but trust me; I’ll explain. The CHPTR_Δ.5 (pronounced “Chapter Delta point five” in case you were stumbling) is the lovechild of BA111OD and Label Noir, designed by Thomas Baillod. It is a triangularly different, semi-open-worked creation with a dark vibe. This comes in […] Visit Introducing: The Stealthy Allure Of The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ.5 Label Noir Limited Edition to read the full article.

Keeping Things Fluid This Monday Morning With The HYT T1 - A Closed Dial Opens Up A World Of Opportunities Fratello
HYT May 27, 2024

Keeping Things Fluid This Monday Morning With The HYT T1 - A Closed Dial Opens Up A World Of Opportunities

One of the biggest recent watch surprises happened the day before Watches and Wonders 2024. Impressively, the watches even captivated all four of the Fratello team members who were there. Normally, a watch release provokes much debate among us. However, the enthusiasm for the four different HYT T1 watches presented on the banks of Lake […] Visit Keeping Things Fluid This Monday Morning With The HYT T1 - A Closed Dial Opens Up A World Of Opportunities to read the full article.