Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys

Photo Report: Making It The Hard Way At The 2024 Rolex 24 At Daytona

Documenting the legendary race from the stands to the track to the watches at the podium.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Breaking Down Sartory Billard’s New Movement, Tracking the Northern Lights, and Unboxing the Apple Vision Pro

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Sartory Billard’s SB08 Movement Gets Broken Down at Revolution  Our friends at Revolution have what is easily the most interesting technical watchmaking article we’ve seen in quite some time this week. In part 2 of their examination of Sartory Billard’s SB08 caliber, Cheryl Chia takes a deep dive into the ongoing work in developing this complicated, unique, and frankly quite exciting movement that features jumping hours and jumping minutes and a tourbillon. Part 1 of the three-part series was published in October, and serves as a higher level overview of the idea behind the SB08, and a little background on the Sartory Billard brand, while this latest article digs a bit more into the weeds of the mechanics, and some of the inherent challenges in developing a movement that requires so much power. We don’t often get a view into movement design in what amounts to real time, so this is a must read for anyone with an interest in the highly complicated mechanical calibers. Chia takes us through some fairly complex watchmaking problem solving, and provides a taste of what finished watc...

If Shoes Make the Man, then the Strap Must Make the Watch: Watchmaking and Leather, A Love Story - Reprise

Many premium watch brands look for that certain “extra element” to get ahead of the competition, and one hot item is straps. If it is true that shoes make the man, then the strap must make the watch.

Grand Seiko’s two new “Snowflake” models incite an interesting discussion

Grand Seiko expands its range of signature white "Snowflake" dial watches with two new quartz models.The post Grand Seiko’s two new “Snowflake” models incite an interesting discussion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: A Rare Omega with the Full Kit, a Certina Chronograph in Great Condition, and a Pair of Fantastic Bulovas

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Benrus First up this week is some stylish bling, a vintage 1958 solid 14k gold Benrus. The solid gold case has unusual fancy lugs and a slim bezel, and is on the smaller side at 32mm wide. There is a super cool personalized engraving from Booth’s 25 Year Club. Yeah, I don’t know what that is either, but the engraving really is a good one. The silver dial is superb with the classic Benrus logo and tri-color bar beneath it. There are applied gold arrow markers for most of the hours, and Arabic numerals for the 12, 3, 6 and 9. No date, but a classy sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. This is a nice stylish dress watch that has the under-the-radar bling with the solid gold case. No movement pic, but the seller states the watch runs well. View auction here Seiko 66-7109 “Blue Tuxedo” Here’s a great vintage hand-wound Seiko on the original bracelet. The bold blue bullseye style dial really pops without being garish, and it’s in fantastic condition. There are applied steel markers and no date – this  is a great looking dial. The steel case is 36mm and unpolished, with nice sharp edges, and it also has the original crown. The Seiko caliber 66 manual wind movement is crisp ...

Hands-on - The Super-Openworked Artime ART01 Tourbillon Makes A Bold Statement

It’s tempting to delve into the detailed backgrounds of the individuals behind this independent creation, the Artime ART01 Tourbillon. Each name, obscure to the general public, speaks volumes to watch professionals and enthusiasts with a deeper knowledge of who’s who. Initially, I felt it imperative to provide profiles for each of them when tasked with […]

The Ulysse Nardin Freak - The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I

Novel ways of telling the time or exhibiting the movement have long been the focus of the avant-garde horologists. Independent watchmakers like Ressence or Urwerk have built their brands on doing away with conventional hands. Such idiosyncratic approaches to watchmaking challenge the traditions of horology, making for a more interesting horological landscape. Even before Urwerk introduced the pioneering three-dimensional cubic hour display in 2005, there was the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Launched in 2001, the Freak literally changed the face of watchmaking by transposing the movement into the dial. Two decades after its launch, the Freak is still regarded as a landmark for its audacity, from both aesthetic and technical perspective. [This story covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement, while Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] The origins The beginning of the Freak lay in 1997, when Carole Forestier-Kasapi, then a young and talented movement designer who only recently graduated from technical college, won the Prix de la Fondation Abraham-Louis Breguet, a contest conceived to mark A.-L. Breguet’s 250th birthday that sought to recognise watchmaking ingenuity. Now the head of m...

Hublot’s Latest SAXEM Creation is a Dark Green Big Bang Unico

We all have our preferences in life. I like “The Sopranos” more than “Breaking Bad,” and thin crust pizza over thick. I like sparkling water over still, and would rather listen to vinyl records than CDs. I’m a Mac user, and I like 1990s action-thrillers more than almost any other type of movie. I’d rather be cold than hot, and I like staying up late more than getting up early. And when it comes to Hublot, I like their colored sapphire and SAXEM cases more than anything else they make. I just do, I can’t help it. The brand in general interests me to no end, but when I see they have a new colored sapphire watches, I get really excited.  For LVMH Watch Week this year, Hublot has unveiled a new and somehow, in the grand scheme of crazy watches, slightly more approachable version of a watch that I’ve been transfixed by over the last few years. There was, of course, the giant purple Big Bang Tourbillon in 2022, and a tennis ball colored version of the same watch (in their SAXEM material) in tennis ball yellow last year. This year, they’re sticking with SAXEM, but have gone back to the traditional dark green material traditionally used with this material in the new Big Bang Unico SAXEM Green.  If you’re reading this and asking yourself “What the hell is SAXEM? It sounds totally made up,” you are hereby forgiven. In my excitement for the new watch, I neglected to provide the primer on the material that is probably necessary if this is your first time hear...

Hey Lewis Hamilton, I’ve designed your new Richard Mille

With the F1 star ditching Mercedes (and therefore IWC) in favour of Ferrari, he'll need his very own Richard Mille model.The post Hey Lewis Hamilton, I’ve designed your new Richard Mille appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Rolex, Breguet, JLC, And Serica

Just like many of you, I thoroughly enjoyed seeing all the shots of enthusiasts’ five-watch collections on Instagram. In a way, it’s nice to see people struggle to pick their five favorite watches (is that horological schadenfreude?). Above all, though, it’s amusing to find out which watches people choose as their favorites and why. Up […] Visit Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Rolex, Breguet, JLC, And Serica to read the full article.

HYT H2O reviewed by Tim Mosso: It looks Huge, but it merely wears Big

The HYT H2O sits like an agreeably secure sapphire tuna tin, even on smaller wrists. It looks huge, but it merely wears big. Tim Mosso takes a closer look.

Zenith Updates the Chronomaster Sport with Two New References, One of which Looks Familiar, the Other…Not So Much

It’s been a big week for Frédéric Arnault and LVMH Watches. Arnault took charge of LVMH Watches earlier this month, so this is his first LVMH Watch Week at the broader helm (he has spent the last few years as CEO of TAG Heuer), and I would say it has been a strong kickoff to his tenure. Wild Hublot Masterpieces, El Primero Triple Calendars from Zenith, and yellow gold Octo Finissimos are all worthy of celebration, but it wouldn’t be LVMH Watch Week without some new additions to the Chronomaster Sport lineup. The Chronomaster Sport was first introduced back in 2021, and initial reactions were very clear that it was built as a sort of “Daytona-killer.” In the now three years since, it has proven to be so much more. Built on more history than just about any chronograph on the market, the Chronomaster Sport has proven to be a fantastic modern interpretation of the longstanding El Primero. Zenith has trickled out new variants of the Chronomaster Sport since its introduction, and despite the signature multi-colored subdials that have been both a hallmark of El Primero watches across the decades and the Chronomaster Sport, these variants have been mostly sedate. Today that changes, and in a big way. Zenith has dropped two new iterations of the Chronomaster Sport, one steel, one decidedly not. Starting with the steel release, we have what essentially amounts to a steel Chronomaster Sport with a green ceramic bezel and matching dial. While the watch is striking, this isn...

First Look - The Speake Marin One & Two Openworked Sandblasted Red Gold And Titanium

If Speake Marin has recently made waves with its sport-chic Ripples line, its Piccadilly case remains a brand signature Inherently Speake Marin. Watches featuring the Piccadilly case embody British elegance, controlled eccentricity, and classic Swiss Haute Horlogerie. The One & Two collection underwent a tasteful revamping in 2017 in collaboration with watch designer Eric Giroud. […]

Louis Erard’s Latest Limited Edition is a Collaboration with a Swiss Abstract Artist, and their Most Challenging Work Yet

There’s a whole category of watches that I have come to genuinely love that I think can be fairly described as highly impractical art objects that also tell time. I wrote about one quite extensively here, and if you follow me on Instagram or have chatted with me in real life or in the Worn & Wound+ Slack community (which, to be fair, is technically “real life”) you know that I gravitate more and more toward the avant-garde, and love challenging designs that try to break what a watch even is. The new limited edition regulator from Louis Erard fits into this category nicely, and indeed was made in partnership with a Swiss abstract artist with a reputation for this type of challenging work. The new Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Olivier Mosset is perhaps the brand’s most purely abstract creation yet.  Let’s start with the obvious question: how do you tell the time on this thing? This is not an unreasonable query – many who have encountered this watch on Louis Erard’s Instagram feed since its unveiling on Tuesday morning have been confused enough to send their question into the void. I won’t say it’s “simple” because even I have to admit that telling the time on this thing is probably difficult in a pinch, but the idea is straightforward. It’s a regulator, with the top hand reading the hours, the middle the minutes, and the bottom the seconds. But the task of actually reading the time is intentionally (I’m assuming) made more challenging for a few reas...

Ben Clymer x G-SHOCK Limited Edition

The G-SHOCK Ref. 5600 By Ben Clymer Limited Edition is the third in a series of collaborations with John Mayer, Ed Sheeran, and Online Ceramics - inspired by vintage watches and the history of Hodinkee, now available in the Hodinkee Shop.

The New Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Celebrates a Big Anniversary by Updating a Mid Century Classic

It’s like we always say: every year is an anniversary year. As surely as the sky is blue and the tax bill comes every spring, watch brands will celebrate major (and not so major, to be honest) anniversaries with new watch releases. This year, Longines is celebrating what is actually a fairly big milestone for their Conquest collection, which turns 70 in 2024. This line is pure mid century elegance, which in my opinion never really went out of fashion, even if sportier watches have been the focus of the watch world for much of the last decade. The Conquest watches immediately evoke a period of time when you could wear a fedora unironically, and smoke cigarettes indoors. A simpler time, before we felt the need to place watches into distinct categories, and they were just watches. You get a little taste of that with the new Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, as well as a very cool execution of a common complication.  The new reference seen here is a reinterpretation of a watch that made its debut in 1959 and featured a power reserve indicator in the center of the dial, which functioned with two rotating discs. The modern version uses the same principle as the watch from the 50s, with a power reserve indicator tied to an uncoiling disc marked with a baton shaped indicator that tracks the movement’s power over the course of its 64 hours of running time. Seeing the power reserve at the center of the dial seems remarkably intuitive, and Longines, for their part, take c...

#TBT Building The Perfect Vintage Watch Collection With €25,000 - Tomas’s Picks From Omega, Seiko, Cartier, And More

Late last year, I followed my colleagues’ thoughts on how would they spend their €25,000 budgets on a perfect watch collection. I had as much fun reading their articles as you did. Since no one asked me about how would I break the bank, I allowed myself to slightly adjust the brief. What would a […] Visit #TBT Building The Perfect Vintage Watch Collection With €25,000 - Tomas’s Picks From Omega, Seiko, Cartier, And More to read the full article.

Review: new micro brand Tennet’s Somerset

We review a new Singaporean based micro brand who just released the Somerset. we had the watch for a week, and here are our thoughts on it.

Victoria Beckham designs her first watch with Breitling

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGX355 “Snowflake Quartz”

Quartz is having something of a quiet comeback. After decades of scorn and contempt, many have come to appreciate the ease of use that quartz provides. Furthermore, not all quartz watches are the same. Today’s new Grand Seiko SBGX355, already nicknamed “Snowflake Quartz,” uses the brand’s famed 9F62 movement and comes in a highly wearable […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGX355 “Snowflake Quartz” to read the full article.

Elegance Meets Accuracy - Going Forward, All Of Serica’s Watches Will Be COSC-Certified Chronometers

Any young watch brand constantly has to make choices about designs, costs, quality, and many other aspects that affect the organization every day. In the case of Serica, a young Parisian brand founded in 2019, elegance, reliability, and accuracy steer the decision-making process. In terms of elegance, I don’t think there was anyone who thought […] Visit Elegance Meets Accuracy - Going Forward, All Of Serica’s Watches Will Be COSC-Certified Chronometers to read the full article.

Breaking News: Moonshine Gold MoonSwatch Returns As Omega And Swatch Partner With Sotheby’s To Auction 11 Complete Sets

It's the first time that these watches will be sold as a complete set, and 100% of the proceeds will go to charity.

Introducing - The New Ikepod Megapod with a One-Minute Hourglass

Ikepod is a preeminent figure in unconventional and often contentious design-focused watchmaking icons. Revered by collectors and enthusiasts alike, the brand, founded in 1994 by designer Marc Newson and entrepreneur Oliver Ike, has left an indelible mark on the watchmaking scene. Despite its global success, Ikepod faced a challenging period, with production coming to a […]

Will LVMH Do Justice To The Daniel Roth Name? - See And Judge For Yourself

Daniel Roth is a name that carries weight in the world of Haute Horlogerie. When LVMH, the brand’s current owner, announced its revival back in 2023, it filled us with anticipation and trepidation. Could this work under the umbrella of a big luxury group? Will LMVH do the Daniel Roth name justice? Well, today, we […] Visit Will LVMH Do Justice To The Daniel Roth Name? - See And Judge For Yourself to read the full article.

Behind The Lens: Ming 20.01 Series 2 AgenGraphe Chronograph - Reprise

The Ming 20.01 Series 2 AgenGraphe Mosaic chronograph was only made in a series of eight prototypes for early backers of the brand. Happily for collectors including Chuck, a modified Series 2 version of the 20.01 did subsequently go into production, and thanks to his kindness GaryG is able to present it to you here.

The Furlan Marri Flyback, and where it slots into the brand line-up

With a lovely chrono movement within, is this a sign of Furlan Marri heading upmarket?The post The Furlan Marri Flyback, and where it slots into the brand line-up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two New Seiko GMT’s and a Vintage Throwback Hit the Windup Watch Shop

Ask any watch collector worth their salt about their entry into watch collecting, and you’ll hear “Seiko 5” more often than not. Then ask them about which Seiko lines they enjoy now, and you’ll hear (if not the same answer) Seiko Prospex. As two of Seiko’s more accessible lines, the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections are more than just gateways – they represent the core of the Japanese brand’s ethos: reliability, excellence, and sportiness. This week we are proud to introduce not one, not two, but three new Seiko references into the Windup Watch Shop. Two hail from the Prospex Alpinist line, and the last is a standalone retro-inspired hit. Here is your Chronicle highlighting the Seiko Alpinist GMTs, models SPB377 and SPB379, and the Seiko SPRK17. As always, we invite you to join our rewards program to earn points with every purchase. Ask any watch collector worth their salt about their entry into watch collecting, and you’ll hear “Seiko 5” more often than not. Then ask them about which Seiko lines they enjoy now, and you’ll hear (if not the same answer) Seiko Prospex. As two of Seiko’s more accessible lines, the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections are more than just gateways – they represent the core of the Japanese brand’s ethos: reliability, excellence, and sportiness. This week we are proud to introduce not one, not two, but three new Seiko references into the Windup Watch Shop. Two hail from the Prospex Alpinist line, and the last is a standalone r...

Introducing - The Graphic New Bell & Ross BR-03 Cyber Ceramic

The latest creation from Bell & Ross, the BR-03 Cyber Ceramic, immediately draws parallels with the Cyber Skull models due to its striking resemblance. At first glance, one might even mistake it for another skull and bones-themed timepiece. However, the brand steers us away from such associations, emphasizing the BR-03 Cyber Ceramic is the brand’s […]

Review: the Findeisen NauticMaster

If you are not already following @mikestuffler on Instagram, then you probably should. He is a watchuseek.com moderator emeritus and talks nearly exclusively about German watches. It is through one of his 7000+ posts that I discovered the brand, Findeisen. Until then, I had never heard of them, despite having been around since 2017. They began with a traditional three-hand dressy sports watch and in 2021 they launched the F-1253 diver. With its distinct sawtooth bezel, this is the one that caught my attention. New for 2023-24 are new vibrant dial colors and a polished DLC-coated bezel inlay.  In for review are two of their NauticMaster divers, a black one with the new bezel inlay and a blue one without. They also have white or green dials, available with either bezel option and your choice of right or left side crown positions. I must admit, I did not know what to expect when they were shipped over. After a few years of admiring these online, I was very excited to get my mitts on these in “real-life.” The case measures 41.5mm in diameter, with a thickness of 12.5mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm and an end-link to end-link length of 53.5mm. I read somewhere that if the tip of the male end link sits lower than where the spring bar attaches to the case, the latter measurement is not as pronounced. I have come to believe that this is true. On my 7.5” wrist, it feels very well balanced and not too wide, not exceeding the surface of my wrist at either end. I also took...

TAG Heuer continues to push the boundaries of lab-grown diamonds with the Carrera Date Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde

This blingy piece features a dial made from a single lab-grown polycrystalline diamond, and is the first TAG Heuer to utilise yellow lab-grown diamonds.The post TAG Heuer continues to push the boundaries of lab-grown diamonds with the Carrera Date Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.