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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 18K SJX Watches
Breitling Apr 10, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 18K

In a surprising move, Tudor is launching the Black Bay 58 18K (ref. 79018V-006) at Watches & Wonders 2024. Essentially the same watch as the 2021 model, the new 58 18K now sports a matching yellow-gold bracelet, whereas it was formerly only offered on a leather or fabric strap. The dial and the bezel remain in the same green colourway, with gilt markings that match the hue of the yellow-gold case and bracelet. The 39 mm case is complemented by an oversized crown embossed with the Tudor rose logo, while widely cut bevels on the lugs provide a pleasing contrast to the brushed finish of the case. Initial thoughts While the Black Bay 58 18K won’t have as much of a wide appeal as the Black Bay 58 GMT – simply as a matter of affordability – it is a perfect update for a model that looked incomplete on a strap. And the bracelet itself is noteworthy. I like fact that it does away with the fake rivets found on the steel models. The cleaner look feels more modern and functional. At US$32,100, the Black Bay 58 18K is far beyond the usual price range of Tudor, but arguably delivers a competitive value proposition as far as an all-gold diver’s watch goes. Granted, the price is not far off from the Rolex Submariner in gold, which retails for US$39,000, but relative to the competition (such as Omega and Breitling), it is perhaps the most competitive in its segment. All gold and no rivets The Black Bay 58 18K notably features a solid gold bracelet equipped with a “T-fit” clasp ...

Introducing – The Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Brings Back The 1969 Original Monochrome
Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Brings Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Brings Back The 1969 Original

1969 was a milestone year for Zenith watches with the brand’s launch of the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement. Although the El Primero stole the headlines, it was not the only model Zenith had up its sleeve. With slightly less fanfare, Zenith also launched its heavy-duty Defy family with its angular octagonal case, crazy […]

First Look – The Lush Green Dial of the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SLGH021 Genbi Valley Monochrome
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SLGH021 Genbi Valley Apr 9, 2024

First Look – The Lush Green Dial of the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SLGH021 Genbi Valley

Grand Seiko has won over legions of admirers for its wonderful textured dials that recreate elements of Japanese nature. With its sophisticated Hi-Beat movement, elegant case responding to the latest design evolution, and gorgeous green textured dial, the new SLGH021 Genbi Valley is going to fly off the shelves. In 2020, Grand Seiko introduced the […]

First Look – The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, With 14 Days of Power Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Apr 9, 2024

First Look – The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, With 14 Days of Power

The Big Bang MP-11’s impressive 14-day power reserve, derived from seven series-coupled and horizontally arranged barrels, has been a staple at Hublot since 2018. Using a sapphire crystal case to house the HUB9011 movement isn’t entirely novel (one of the inaugural models featured this). Still, it’s hard to overlook the allure of the latest iteration […]

Introducing – The Jaw-Dropping A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Jaw-Dropping A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen

The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is the indisputable highlight of A. Lange & Söhne’s novelties for Watches and Wonders 2024. Pulling out its big guns at Watches & Wonders, Lange has treated its über-complex flyback chronograph, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon cocktail to an exclusive Honeygold case and, for the cherry on top, a luminous […]

Hallelujah! The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT finally exists Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Apr 9, 2024

Hallelujah! The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT finally exists

The long-awaited, thinner take on the Black Bay GMT is finally here in all its Bakelite-like glory. The case slims down to an impressive 12.8mm in height, retaining the Black Bay 58’s 39mm diameter. The watch is available on either a rubber strap or riveted three-link bracelet. Pretty much as soon as the Tudor Black … ContinuedThe post Hallelujah! The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT finally exists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 Time+Tide
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Rolex’s dressiest Apr 9, 2024

Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908

Rolex’s dressiest piece gets the most luscious makeover possible. The guilloché of the dial is also a rare sight in a Rolex, matching really well with the coined bezel. It joins the line-up of yellow and Everose gold variants, with either a black or brown leather strap fitted with a case-matching platinum buckle. Fans of … ContinuedThe post Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing – The New Rolex Day-Date 40 in Everose Gold with a Slate Ombré Dial Monochrome
Rolex Day-Date 40 Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The New Rolex Day-Date 40 in Everose Gold with a Slate Ombré Dial

Rolex is broadening its higher-end collection with the addition to the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 collection of an ombré slate dial within the line-up (understand a gradient toned dial). Notably, Rolex ombré dials were previously exclusive to the Day-Date 36. This new reference introduces another first: faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and index hour markers in […]

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink Fratello
Gerald Charles Apr 9, 2024

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink

The new Gerald Charles Masterlink arrives just in time for Watches and Wonders 2024. It’s a modern take on Gerald Genta’s famous Maestro case paired with an integrated bracelet. There’s no mistaking this watch for anything but a Genta-inspired design, yet it’s a thoughtful and new evolution. Last November, I had the opportunity to attend […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink to read the full article.

Zenith Revives the Defy A3648 Diver SJX Watches
Zenith Revives Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Revives the Defy A3648 Diver

Zenith has return to one of its most striking vintage watches with the Defy Revival A3648. A re-issue of the A3648 of 1969, the latest Defy Revival shares the same angular, 37 mm case and distinctive fourteen-sided bezel. While the newly released model shares the styling of the original – as well as the 600 m depth rating – it has been upgraded with modern materials, like a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal insert. Initial thoughts From the Defy Revival A3691 to the Chronomaster Revival, Zenith has frequently turned to its vintage watches for reissues. The brand’s approach to reissues is straightforward: maintain the original aesthetics as much as possible while upgrading them technically modern movements, superior materials, and more robust bracelets. While not a creative formula in any sense, it is an effective one, particularly with interesting and appealing vintage models. This same formula has been applied to the Defy Revival A3648. It is a byproduct of analysing historical blueprints, thereby staying faithful to the original in most aspects, including design and the 600 m depth rating. Priced at CHF7400, the Defy Revival A3648 is a decent value proposition, though not quite to the level that Zenith was historically known for. It’s a faithful vintage re-issue of a distinctive design that’s been updated with modern materials and quality that results in robustness and reliability superior to the vintage original. Tasty Orange The defining characteristics of t...

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Chronograph SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Chronograph

Amidst the plethora of sports watches with integrated bracelets, the Zenith Defy Skyline stands out for its uncluttered design and relative affordability. Now the lineup is joined by the Defy Skyline Chronograph. The chronograph maintains many of the signature features of the existing models, such as its octagonal case and star-patterned dial. Debuting in three dial colours, Defy chronograph is amongst Zenith’s sportier offerings. Like other recent launches, it is powered by the second-generation El Primero calibre. Initial thoughts The Defy Skyline Chronograph is another option for an enthusiasts seeking a sports chronograph with a contemporary design and integrated bracelet. There are admittedly many, many options in this category, but the Defy chronograph is one of the value-minded offerings. At CHF11,900, the Defy chronograph with its in-house movement is competitively priced compared to other offerings in the sports watch market. The brand has opted for a conservative design while retaining a modern edge. Though the overall design is familiar, it has incorporates a few unusual details, including a polygonal flange around the dial. The watch is being launched in only three colours, all simple, easy shades that are well suited to the design, though not exciting. With the limited colours in mind, some might want to wait for subsequent releases that may adopt the colours found in its time-only counterpart. Zenith’s latest addition The Defy chronograph joins Zenith’...

Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar Fratello
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar One Apr 9, 2024

Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

One part inside your watch makes one complete rotation every 400 years. Let that sink in. This is the case with the new IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar ref. IW505701. The calendar will run flawlessly until the year 3999. A regular perpetual calendar would need three corrections (in 2100, 2200, and 2300). Only those centurial years […] Visit Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar to read the full article.

The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph Fratello
IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Apr 9, 2024

The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph

You might have to look twice, but you’re looking at the updated IWC Portugieser Automatic 42. These models have a completely re-engineered case construction with a more slender side profile. The bezel-less watches feature double-domed box-style glass sapphire crystals for unobstructed views of the sunburst dials or the versions finished with 15 layers of transparent […] Visit The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph to read the full article.

Lange Marks the Datograph’s 25th Anniversary in White Gold and Blue SJX Watches
Casio n Though left unstated Apr 9, 2024

Lange Marks the Datograph’s 25th Anniversary in White Gold and Blue

A. Lange & Söhne is marking 25 years of its landmark chronograph of 1999 with the Datograph Up/Down “25th Anniversary”, a limited edition that’s a subtle but significant variation of the familiar model. The anniversary Datograph sports a dark blue dial matched with a white gold case that contains the much loved L951.6 movement. Limited to 125 pieces, the new model joins the regular production versions in platinum and pink gold (both with black dials) that remain in the catalogue. And it’s the more affordable of the anniversary editions, with the flagship being the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Initial thoughts While the anniversary Datograph doesn’t seem like much on the face of it, the colour and material is fairly unique for the model. The Datograph has only ever been offered in platinum, pink or yellow gold, and never before with a blue dial (except on one occasion). Though left unstated in the official announcement, the blue dial is clearly a reference to a unique example of the first-generation Datograph that had a blue dial, something that fans of the brand will appreciate. Moreover, the Datograph is rarely iterated as a limited edition. This is only the third Datograph limited edition (following the Datograph Lumen of 2019), leaving aside gem-set models. Consequently, there’s a lot to like about this, with a big caveat. As comparably-priced alternative to the regular production models, this is a compelling proposition. However, ...

Vulcain Introduces New Dial Variants in the Skindiver Nautique Line Worn & Wound
Vulcain Introduces New Dial Variants Apr 8, 2024

Vulcain Introduces New Dial Variants in the Skindiver Nautique Line

Back in March of last year, Zach Weiss reviewed the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique. This was a case where the headline really said it all, but of course the whole review is worth a read for a fuller context. I had some hands-on time with this watch as well, and agree completely with his sentiments. Describing the watch as “very reasonable” is really essential to understanding it. It’s not extraordinary, it’s not a revolution in watchmaking. It’s a deeply adequate and relentlessly normal execution of tried and true sports watch format: the skin diver. And that’s OK! The entire idea of the modern skin diver is really based on the fact that a handful of brands really nailed the design decades ago. It’s not a platform that needs to be played with. There are lots of new versions of this type of watch from a huge variety of brands, and I think “reasonable” is really what most of them should be shooting for.  Vulcain has just announced a total of four new variants of the Nautique Skindiver, and they strive to offer a little more variety than the initial drop from last spring. New dial variants include options in orange, brown, and green, as well as a new reference with a bronze case and black dial, and a very striking variant in yellow gold plate with a dial in a dark shade of blue. This one, I have to admit, is a little outside the bounds of reasonable, and might be striving for something a little more.  All of the new Skindiver Nautique variants have the same 38...

Nivada Introduces a Titanium F77, and Adds Some Exotic Dials to the Collection Worn & Wound
Apr 8, 2024

Nivada Introduces a Titanium F77, and Adds Some Exotic Dials to the Collection

When Nivada relaunched the F77, the brand’s long dormant integrated bracelet sports watch, it landed with a positive reception but was, maybe, seen as a little unremarkable. It paid tribute to the original, maintaining its sleek 37mm case and a sporty profile, but didn’t really do a whole lot to set itself apart from the many other integrated bracelet sports watch options out there. Now, with the second F77 collection hitting just a year later, Nivada has tried something genuinely different for watches in this category, putting a much greater emphasis on the dial, offering a range of choices that approach the exotic. The watch is also now in a new metal, titanium, that will perhaps make it that much more desirable to those looking for an alternative to more common watches in this style.  The “basket weave” dial motif that was introduced in last year’s launch returns here but in just one of the four variants Nivada will be making available. The anthracite gray execution of the titanium F77 is the most straightforward of the new models, and the one that’s most closely linked to previous versions. The real story here though is in those other three dial variants. Nivada will be offering the F77 in meteorite, lapis lazuli, and aventurine, with the general idea being that the brand is both “looking skyward” and “breaking new ground” with dials evoking deep space as well as the earth itself. That’s clever marketing, but it’s backed up in this case by Niva...

A Swift Hands-On With The New Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter Fratello
Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter Apr 8, 2024

A Swift Hands-On With The New Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter

The introduction of the Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter celebrates the 25th anniversary of the first nonstop balloon flight around the world. It does so with a smoky orange dial and a piece of the history-making balloon on the case back. But more importantly, it’s a completely new watch. The 2013-introduced Aerospace Evo now has a […] Visit A Swift Hands-On With The New Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter to read the full article.

The New Ferdinand Berthoud Of 2024 Is Now Customisable? Revolution
Ferdinand Berthoud Apr 5, 2024

The New Ferdinand Berthoud Of 2024 Is Now Customisable?

In 2020, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud introduced its second collection, the Chronomètre FB 2RE. This timepiece signaled a significant milestone for the Maison, featuring the first round case, a display with three central hands, and notably, the debut of a movement with a double regulation system-a fusion of fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second “remontoir d’égalité”. This […]

Bulova Brings their Precisionist Movement to the Marine Star Worn & Wound
Bulova Brings their Precisionist Movement Apr 4, 2024

Bulova Brings their Precisionist Movement to the Marine Star

Bulova’s latest announcement heralds a significant leap forward in the evolution of the Marine Star collection, as they integrate the groundbreaking Precisionist High-Performance Quartz technology. This milestone underscores their commitment to seamlessly blending traditional craftsmanship with state-of-the-art upgrades, showing that a brand dating back to 1875 can still find ways to improve. The collection introduces three new “Series C” styles, each featuring a robust 43mm polygon case crafted from stainless steel. Notable for their impeccable accuracy, the Precisionist movement boasts a smooth sweeping second hand, which beats an impressive 16 times per second. The vibrant dial colors-bright yellow, silver, and rich chocolate-are tonally pitch-perfect, balancing both a sporty look with a subtle richness. Each dial is enhanced by a wave pattern, inspired by the ocean. This background makes a great canvas for luminescent hour markers and bold handset. A date window at the 3 o’clock mark, a black ceramic bezel, and a bold logo at 12 complete the look of this series of watches. All watches are now available via Bulova’s website. The three watches featured in this series are all priced depending on the color and strap option. The yellow watch is paired with a black rubber strap and is priced at $695. The white dial option has a simple stainless steel bracelet, priced at $795. And, finally, the brown dial with rose gold finishes is available for $750 with a blac...

Introducing – The New & Improved Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series (SRPK87, SRPK89, SRPK91) Monochrome
Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series Apr 4, 2024

Introducing – The New & Improved Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series (SRPK87, SRPK89, SRPK91)

Launched in 1963, the Seiko Sportsmatic 5 was Seiko’s and Japan’s first automatic day-date watch. With its solid water and shock-resistant stainless case and bracelet, practical functions, automatic movement and accessible price, the Seiko 5 became an instant best-seller among young people. Following Seiko’s participation in the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, exports of the Seiko 5 […]

First Look – The Zesty H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Concept Citrus Green (incl. Video) Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Concept Apr 4, 2024

First Look – The Zesty H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Concept Citrus Green (incl. Video)

The H. Moser & Cie. Concept series, distinguished by the sheer elegance of minimalistic yet very elaborately finished dials, expands to include a watch in a sporty Pioneer case. The result is beautifully controversial, perhaps as intended by the brand, for the athletic, almost brutal, and adventure-ready case gets paired with a very funky-coloured dial. […]

First Look – New Indie Watch Brand Guebly Launches with the Chapitre 1 Watch Monochrome
Apr 3, 2024

First Look – New Indie Watch Brand Guebly Launches with the Chapitre 1 Watch

Passion sometimes leads enthusiasts down unexpected paths. For some, the journey begins with an insatiable curiosity, gradually evolving into a deep-seated appreciation for the artistry and craftsmanship behind each timepiece. Such was the case for Adnane Kerd, a dedicated watch collector whose journey has now taken a remarkable turn as he ventures into the realm […]

Hands-On With The Rose Gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique And Online Edition Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique Apr 3, 2024

Hands-On With The Rose Gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique And Online Edition

I am always happy to try a new Zenith watch, especially when it’s made of precious materials. And that’s precisely what this Chronomaster Sport is about, boasting a rose gold case, a spinel-, diamond-, and sapphire-set bezel, and a gold meteorite dial with diamonds. Chronomaster Sport 22.3100.3600/69.M3100 This Zenith Chronomaster Sport in 18K rose gold […] Visit Hands-On With The Rose Gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique And Online Edition to read the full article.

Norqain is Ready for Spring with Pastel Shades for the Freedom 60 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Norqain Apr 2, 2024

Norqain is Ready for Spring with Pastel Shades for the Freedom 60 Chronograph

Swiss watchmaker Norqain has just released the colorful Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection. Showcasing three colorways, this collection is inspired by the idyllic charm of Tuscany, capturing the essence of la dolce vita, mixed with the precision and design elements for which Norqain is known. Each watch in the collection features a 316L stainless steel case in the now familiar Freedom 60 silhouette that evokes classic sports watches from the past. With a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 14.90mm, these timepieces strike the perfect balance of having presence on the wrist without too much additional bulk.  The Freedom 60 Chrono 40 mm collection is available in three new pastel color options: Sky Blue, Pistachio, and Peach, each dial reminiscent of one’s favorite gelateria. Each dial has a darker complementary sub-dial, outer ring, and tachymeter scale to tie the everything  together. An anthracite Norqain logo and black counters at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock add depth to the dial, while diamond-cut flat indexes ensure readability in a variety of lighting conditions. The color matched date window, positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, adds a practical complication, while diamond-cut faceted hour and minute hands, filled with Superluminova, enhance visibility in low-light environments. The Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection is powered by the mechanical Norqain caliber N19 (a modified Sellita SW510), offering 62 hours of power reserve.  Watches are offered in three strap varie...

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Divetrack SJX Watches
Rolex Deepsea Challenge Apr 2, 2024

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Divetrack

As a sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, the “restomod” outfit specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined naturally got its start with auto-racing inspired chronographs, namely the Track 1. Now the brand has pivoted and debuted its first diving watch, the Divetrack Chronograph. Decidedly oversized – the diameter is 49 mm – the Divetrack has the aesthetics of a dive timer, but also the functionality thanks to a clever case and dial construction. And like the Track 1, the Divetrack is powered by the smart AgenGraphe movement that consolidates all of the chronograph indicators onto the central axis. Initial thoughts Oversized dive watches are cool. Watch nerds appreciate them for the technology, design, and function even if no one really uses them for the intended purpose. This applies to the Seiko Tuna, Rolex Deepsea Challenge, and now the Divetrack. At 49 mm in diameter and almost 20 mm high, the Divetrack is unabashedly oversized. It has an appealing instrument-like design along with a clever decompression scale on the dial. And the Agenhor movement inside ranks amongst the most inventive chronograph movements on the market. But the Divetrack is priced at CHF85,000, which is surprisingly high. In comparison, the Track 1 in titanium or aluminium costs about CHF50,000. The number is difficult to justify regardless of how you slice it. Although the movement has been modified for a 24-hour counter, the modification isn’t a major one. Still, the small edition ...