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Now in the Shop: Six Playful New Models from Paulin Watches Worn & Wound
Sep 15, 2023

Now in the Shop: Six Playful New Models from Paulin Watches

Paulin Watches made their appearance in the Windup Watch Shop with an exclusive (and now sold out) green dialed version of their Neo watch. Now, they’re back in full force with six new variants of the Modul – a vintage inspired tonneau-shaped case with some really fun modern design touches. Let’s take a closer look at these 35mm timepieces that have an interesting secret within their modular case design. Paulin Watches made their appearance in the Windup Watch Shop with an exclusive (and now sold out) green dialed version of their Neo watch. Now, they’re back in full force with six new variants of the Modul – a vintage inspired tonneau-shaped case with some really fun modern design touches. Let’s take a closer look at these 35mm timepieces that have an interesting secret within their modular case design. The post Now in the Shop: Six Playful New Models from Paulin Watches appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Breitling Rethinks the Navitimer with Smaller Sizes, New Colors, and Diamonds Worn & Wound
Breitling Rethinks Sep 15, 2023

Breitling Rethinks the Navitimer with Smaller Sizes, New Colors, and Diamonds

While of course we are often used to a few new references here and there, Swiss brand Breitling has made an astonishing bet on their new additions to the Navitimer line-up, with a staggering 20 references released last week. Each slightly more unique than the last, the Navitimer 32 and 36 collections showcase not just the delicate beauty of these models, but the overall confidence that Breitling has on this historic design. The Navitimer has come a long way from its utility roots to now be an object of affection for Hollywood stars like Charlize Theron, who heads the campaign for this release. First introduced in 1952 as an aviation watch, the beaded darling of Breitling has since become a mainstay in the brand’s repertoire. Now, with the 32 and 36 releases, we see a softer side to the potential that exists with such a timeless design. From pale pinks to blues, greens and grays, each watch is deeply embedded in the natural world while being elevated by the artistry of Breitling’s design team. Decorated in a combination of mother-of-pearl, lab-grown diamond, and traceable gold, we see a balance between functionality and design that softens the edges a bit for an otherwise bold model. The Navitimer 36 is, no surprise here, a 36mm stainless steel case that fits handsomely on either a man or woman’s wrist. The dial of the Navitimer 36 is circumscribed with the standard beaded bezel and additional slide rule (a throwback to the aviation history of this watch). One has the...

Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD in Black Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD Sep 14, 2023

Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD in Black

Tudor expands their FXD family today with a new regular production reference that features a black dial and bezel. The watch follows the same formula as the Marine Nationale FXD that was released in late 2021, a flat 12.7mm thick, 42mm titanium case with a fixed lug design. There are a few changes here worth noting, however, and this might just be the most approachable FXD to date. While there is no official affiliation with this watch, the latest FXD was released alongside a display of the brand’s rich history in issued watches, right next to the original Sealab I at the Man In The Sea museum in Panama City Florida.  The setting is a fitting reminder of the remarkable Sealab program, and an era when watches like this were used as indispensable tools, the same as a compass or knife. This the spirit of the FXD and even the broader Pelagos collection as a whole, and as such we’ll be putting the new watch through its paces on a dive in the Gulf of Mexico, keep an eye out for the full report from the experience coming soon. The black FXD welcomes the same bit of red text at the bottom of the dial that we saw in the Pelagos 39 released last year. It provides the same benefit here, serving to reduce the visual weight of the 4 lines of text at the bottom of the dial. The matte black dial is joined by a matte black bezel insert (no sunburst pattern here), and the bezel is the biggest departure from the original FXD. Rather than counting down, and bi-directional (features done...

Tudor Unveils the US Navy-Inspired Pelagos FXD Ref. 25717N SJX Watches
Tudor Unveils Sep 14, 2023

Tudor Unveils the US Navy-Inspired Pelagos FXD Ref. 25717N

Tudor’s release on September 14th lived up to the anticipation, particularly for enthusiasts who appreciate vintage-inspired design. The Pelagos FXD ref. 25717N is a variant of the model developed together with the French navy and shares the same specs, including a 42 mm titanium case. But the new FXD “Single Red” pays homage to the brand’s historical affiliation with the US Navy, which turned to Tudor for military-issue timepieces starting in 1950s. Initial thoughts While this may be fairly unsurprising given the nature of Tudor’s catalogue, the new FXD is well executed and ticks all the right boxes for those who love military-inspired tool watches. The no-nonsense black dial with the “single red” marking instantly evokes well-known dive watches of the 1970s. The watch itself is not new. It’s essentially identical to the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” from in 2021, but with black dial and bezel that gives it a more purposeful look. It’s a predictable evolution of the model given Tudor’s emphasis on its historical ties with navies and other professional organisations. Like the original FXD in blue, this has a clean dial that allows the design to be unobstructed. Notably, the designers should be commending for going with pure white Super-Luminova on this, instead of faux-vintage lume that might have looked too affected. However, its designers could have been even more striking by dialling back the text on the dial even more, perhaps having just the ...

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Some of our Favorite Microbrands Worn & Wound
Brew Sep 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Some of our Favorite Microbrands

In this edition of Inside the Collection, Blake Buettner and Zach Kazan are focusing on microbrands. Or small independents. Or micro-indies. This flavor of watch brand goes by many names, but the thing that binds them all together is a sense of independence and real personality in the design. These watches are the singular visions of the brand founders, and to have access to that kind of creativity at the price points of the watches on the table in this video, well, that’s pretty special.    Perhaps unsurprisingly, there’s some overlap in the microbrand watches Zach and Blake chose to talk about. Both selected watches made by Brew and Lorier, two Windup Watch Fair mainstays who have been part of the community for years. Zach’s Retromatic and Blake’s Metric are great examples of brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s design sensibility, with compact, easy to wear square cases and funky, just slightly off-kilter dial designs. The Gemini and Hydra, both from Lorier, are likewise great examples of the charming, vintage inspired vibes the NYC based brand is so skilled at cultivating.  Rounding out this selection of micros are Blake’s pair of Autodromo Group B “Night Stage” editions, and Zach’s anOrdain Model 1, which is a limited edition version made in collaboration with the Windup Watch Shop. Like all of the watches seen here, these are special not just because the watches are great, but because of the talented people behind them, who pour everything they have i...

Interview: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid Talks Retail and CPO SJX Watches
Rolex buying Bucherer Sep 14, 2023

Interview: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid Talks Retail and CPO

Very few will have missed the news of Rolex buying Bucherer, and all of the reactions to it. Given the big change this poses to the world of watch retail, when we were recently given the chance to speak with Wilhelm Schmid, chief executive of A. Lange & Söhne, we thought it the perfect opportunity to get his insight on the current retail landscape.  We sat down with the seasoned leader – now the longest-serving brand boss in Richemont – at this year’s Concours of Elegance, the classic car show at Hampton Court Palace, surrounded by the sounds of vintage V8s revving in the distance. Now that the world has exited the pandemic for good, the way we shop seems to be going back to normal and the shifts that brands made during those turbulent years are either being undone or slowly wound down in the hope that customers are willing to go back to the old ways of doing things and getting out to physical stores. Mr Schmid is certainly of the mindset that a face-to-face connection is the only way to sell one of their watches, as we discovered in our discussion below.  Not only did we talk about how the German brand plans to change their retail strategy moving forward, we also queried him on the Bucherer takeover and how Lange is adapting the to rising tide of brands developing certified pre-owned (CPO) offerings.  The following interview has been edited for clarity and length.  Wilhelm Schmid (left) with the best-in-show winner at the Concours of Elegance 2023 RPS: Perhaps...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Glow-in-the-Dark Monaco Night Driver SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Sep 14, 2023

TAG Heuer Introduces the Glow-in-the-Dark Monaco Night Driver

Following its recent run of strikingly modern iterations of the classic Monaco, like the Skeleton Dial and the one-of-a-kind Only Watch split-seconds chronograph, TAG Heuer debuts the Monaco Chronograph Night Driver Limited Edition alongside the side of the 2023 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix. Dressed in shades of grey during the day, the Night Driver transforms into something else altogether at night. It retains the outlines of the vintage original in terms of design, but the Night Driver gets a luminescent chapter ring and sub-dials for nighttime legibility – a nod to the Singapore Grand Prix’s status as the first-ever Formula 1 night race. Initial thoughts After the recent Monaco models that were very contemporary, the more traditional looks of the Night Driver are a positive development. And even then the Night Driver incorporates an intriguing twist, making it more than just a vintage-ish watch. The Night Driver has a dial that uses Super-Luminova as a key element of the design, bringing to mind the Monza Flyback Chronometer. But here the lume is even more generously applied than on the Monza.  Moreover, the grey tones of anthracite, grey opaline, and case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC), complement the lume well, creating a vintage feel that evokes faded “ghost” dials while still being a modern watch. Like other titanium Monaco models, the Night Driver is light in hand and on the wrist, despite the relatively large case. The thickness of the case, a cons...

Seiko Celebrates 110 Years of the Laurel with Seven New Releases Encompassing the Scope of their Catalog Worn & Wound
Seiko Celebrates 110 Years Sep 13, 2023

Seiko Celebrates 110 Years of the Laurel with Seven New Releases Encompassing the Scope of their Catalog

When Hintaro Hattori set up shop in Tokyo’s Ginza at the age of 21, he would eventually change the watchmaking landscape forever. The business, which initially focused on importing and wholesaling Swiss pieces, would go on to manufacture Japan’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, in 1913. It would also eventually be known as Seiko. Not one to waste an anniversary, Seiko is commemorating 110 years since the Laurel with a flurry of releases up and down the lineup. From Presage to Prospex, here is an overview of the new watches. Seiko Presage Bearing the closest resemblance to the original Laurel, the SPB401 bears the trademark red twelve o’clock numeral and two subdials for the date and power reserve. Its enamel dial comes from the work of the venerable Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team. It will be limited to 1,500 pieces with a retail price of $1,250. The SPB413 features an angular case not too unlike the King Seiko line and showcases a “hemp leaf” pattern on the dial. A red mark along the rehaut at twelve is its nod to the Laurel. It’s the most modern of the new releases but perhaps is also one of the most wearable. It is limited to 2,000 pieces with a retail price of $1,050. The least limited of the new Presage releases (3,500 pieces) is the SSK015, a new variation on the existing SSK GMT watches. It pays homage to the Laurel with its four blue hands and red triangle at twelve and will set you back $625. Seiko Prospex Sure to be a fan favorite, the SPB409 Alpinist GMT...

Bell & Ross Refines the Case of their Iconic BR 03 Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Refines Sep 13, 2023

Bell & Ross Refines the Case of their Iconic BR 03

Before I was really into watches as a collector or enthusiast, I can remember walking into a Tourneau store in a mall in the Boston suburbs and being drawn to the strange, square cased watches displayed prominently as I entered the space. I’m sure I was just killing time before a movie or meeting a friend, but somehow those watches, made by a brand I had no knowledge of, imprinted something on me. I don’t remember any of the other watches I encountered that day, or any other, at that same Tourneau. But the Bell & Ross BR 03 made an impression. It wasn’t even that I liked it – I just found them so unusual and distinctive. And for someone on the outside of the watch world looking in, these watches were an early point of fascination.  The BR 03, in my view, is one of the truly iconic modern watch designs for this very reason. It pulls in the curious window shopper in a way that a traditionally shaped watch can’t. Now, Bell & Ross is updating the BR 03 with a subtly reworked case. In these Bell & Ross supplied images, it’s honestly hard to see the changes (I’d really like to see one side by side with an older version of the watch), but based on the tale of the tape, it should make for an improved and more ergonomic wearing experience, which is no small feat for a watch that is known (and loved) for its inherent, charming, ungainliness. The big change is a full millimeter reduction in the case size, going from 42mm to 41mm. On a square watch, that’s going to ma...

This New Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read an Altitude Higher than the World’s Tallest Peak Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read Sep 12, 2023

This New Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read an Altitude Higher than the World’s Tallest Peak

Citizen has introduced a new Altichron to the Promaster family of watches. This series has always struck me as kind of gleefully over the top, even more than many of the crazy dive watches we talk about in these pages frequently. The whole idea behind the “Promaster” branding is to show Citizen’s prominence in designing watches that can take on land and air in addition to sea, but sometimes we get caught up in the dive watch aspect of it all given the importance of watches in that niche to the culture of contemporary watch collecting. The Altichron is, effectively, a souped up field watch made with mountaineering in mind, and it has a number of features that should make athletes who spend their time at higher elevations quite happy. For the rest of us, there’s still a lot of cool tech to gawk at, which is a perfectly acceptable way to enjoy a watch like this in my book.  The key feature of the Altichron is its altitude sensor, which allows for measurements up to 32,800 feet above sea level (Mt. Everest, for the record, is a little over 29,000 feet above sea level). Also, just in case you’re the multidisciplinary sort, you’ll get an accurate reading up to 300 meters below sea level as well. The altitude meter is read via an inner dial for the first 900 meters above sea level, and then via a subdial at 9:00 for higher altitudes. The Altichron is also equipped with an electronic compass that shows your heading via a gauge around the dial’s perimeter. The layout...

Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes Worn & Wound
Sep 12, 2023

Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes

We love seeing watches that break free of the well established genre specific design codes, offering an original perspective that doesn’t necessarily take the beaten path. When it comes to dive watch in particular, this can be a challenge, though it can indeed be done. The dive watch template is simple and straightforward, making it especially challenging to carve a unique path, which often happens in subtle ways. This is a genre with a deep and easily recognizable heritage, and many new watches and watch brands tend to lean on these a bit too heavily, creating a somewhat homogeneous landscape of divers. The watches we’re looking at today from Fleux, are no exception, however they do bring something unique to the table at the same time.  The watches are the FLX001 and FLX002, a pair of skin divers that offer a perfectly comfortable design at a glance, sitting well within that dive watch archetype mold. There is clear old-school inspiration at work, but there’s a modern sheen applied that manages to find a pleasant balance between the inspiration, and the forward looking intent. These watches manage this in a manner that can be tricky to put a finger on, meaning it feels relatively organic in the process, and somewhat retro-futuristic as a side effect. A fact first tipped off by the brand’s motto: “vintage inspired; continually new”. $450 Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes Case Stainless Steel Movement SII SH38A Automati...

Tissot Just Hit Our Windup Watch Shop! Worn & Wound
Tissot Just Hit Our Windup Sep 12, 2023

Tissot Just Hit Our Windup Watch Shop!

For watch collectors and enthusiasts, Tissot is a brand that holds special meaning. Part of the Swatch group, they are a rare brand that offers a little of everything, always at a good price, and always Swiss-made. Vintage, modern, sport, digital, dress, quirky, classic – you name it, they’ve got it. They also span all types of movements, making it very easy to find a watch that suits your taste and budget. While a great way to get into Swiss-made watches, Tissot is a brand that you’ll find yourself going back to over the years. Today, we’re very excited to welcome Tissot to the Windup Watch Shop. For watch collectors and enthusiasts, Tissot is a brand that holds special meaning. Part of the Swatch group, they are a rare brand that offers a little of everything, always at a good price, and always Swiss-made. Vintage, modern, sport, digital, dress, quirky, classic – you name it, they’ve got it. They also span all types of movements, making it very easy to find a watch that suits your taste and budget. While a great way to get into Swiss-made watches, Tissot is a brand that you’ll find yourself going back to over the years. Today, we’re very excited to welcome Tissot to the Windup Watch Shop. The post Tissot Just Hit Our Windup Watch Shop! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Marco Lang Open Sources His Movement and Constructions SJX Watches
Sep 12, 2023

Marco Lang Open Sources His Movement and Constructions

As a gifted and passionate watchmaker, Marco Lang is committed to preserving his legacy for future generations. This extraordinary commitment involves providing unrestricted access to all the construction data related to every component of his Zweigesicht-1 timepiece on his website. This open-source initiative aims to assist future watchmakers in servicing Marco’s watches for generations to come. The beginning of independence When a watchmaker, especially an independent one, makes the commitment to ensure that his creations will remain fully functional and cherished by generations to come, it truly demonstrates the depth of his devotion and altruism toward both his present and future clientele. Marco Lang embarked on his journey as an independent watchmaker when he founded his modest workshop in Dresden in 2003, in collaboration with Mirko Heyne and Lothar Zieger, which eventually became known as Lang & Heyne. In 2019, he once again chose the path of an independent watchmaker, this time working entirely on his own. He found a delicate balance between idealism and art, a topic he delves into in this article he penned for us during the year he decided to embark on this new chapter. Marco Lang in his workshop, located within his home. Photo – Marco Lang The subsequent year marked the introduction of his inaugural creation under the “Marco Lang” signature, the double-faced Zweigesicht-1, housing the remarkable calibre ml-01. The calibre ml-01 With all 18 pieces of the ...

Tissot Unveils the New Heritage 1938 References, Inspired by the Timeless Design of the 1930s Worn & Wound
Tissot Unveils Sep 11, 2023

Tissot Unveils the New Heritage 1938 References, Inspired by the Timeless Design of the 1930s

Sometimes all you need is a simple, well-designed watch. For over 170 years, Tissot has been providing just that. Now, with their latest release, the Tissot Heritage 1938, we’re seeing the Swiss brand look to their archives to bring back a time-tested design that has never gone out of style. As the name implies, Tissot was inspired by the design language of the 1930’s for the Heritage 1938 collection. With minimal dials and vintage inspired colorways that blend seamlessly into the 39mm stainless steel case, Tissot celebrates its heritage while never falling into the trap of making these watches feel like a recycling of old ideas. Instead, what we get is a refresh of a design that, put simply, just works. Two options are available in the Tissot Heritage 1938 collection: the Tissot Heritage Small Second Auto COSC 1938 and the Tissot Heritage Gent Auto COSC 1938. The former is powered by a 2895-2 COSC movement, while the latter is powered by a 2824-2 COSC movement. Both promise reliable timekeeping with a power reserve exceeding 40 hours. As the name would suggest, the Small Second reference has a small silvered running seconds subdial at the 6 o’clock mark and a date at 3 o’clock against a dark gray dial. The two Gent references (one with a salmon dial, the other dark gray) lack both of these features, but nonetheless have their own charm to them, showcasing the versatility that comes with a minimally-designed watch that can stand on its own. Whether going with the G...

Review: the Circula DiveSport Titanium Worn & Wound
Laco Sep 11, 2023

Review: the Circula DiveSport Titanium

Roughly 20 years ago, I was tasked by my editor and Baume & Mercier to review the latter’s latest, toughest tool watch. I know what you are thinking. Baume & Mercier and the words “tool watch” do not go together. Well, for a brief period, the appropriately named Capeland XXL was just that. This was a large titanium dive watch, with a striking yellow patterned dial, with oversized hands and a helium escape valve. It was such a departure from their norm and boy, was it a super cool watch.  Fast forward to today and I have another super cool titanium, yellow dialed diver to review, the Circula DiveSport. Circula has been around since 1955, founded by the current owner’s grandfather Heinz Huber. Based in Pforzheim, Circula shares a hometown with Aristo, Laco and Stowa, as well as renowned case maker Fricker GmbH. Circula has been rejuvenated as of late, with Cornelius Huber now at the helm. Their previous models leaned heavily on classical designs from yesteryear and just like the Capeland XXL, the new DiveSport is a departure from the norm. From the design to the materials, this one is fully modern and has its sights on the future.  The DiveSport’s multi-faceted grade 2 titanium case measures 42mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug length of only 48.5mm and it is 13.4mm slim (+0.5mm with the crystal). Why did he say slim, you may be asking, as 13.4mm does not sound that thin. It is if you consider the 500m depth rating! Also, when you combine the 133g weight (with 2 l...

5 of our favourite watches available via Sotheby’s x Bucherer Certified Pre-Owned Time+Tide
Sep 11, 2023

5 of our favourite watches available via Sotheby’s x Bucherer Certified Pre-Owned

According to the Boston Consulting Group, pre-owned watch sales accounted for nearly one third of the total watch sales for the year – with pre-owned watch sales representing $22 billion of the $75 billion in watch sales for the year. Pre-owned watch sales are also projected to overtake first-hand ones by 2033 according to Bloomberg. … ContinuedThe post 5 of our favourite watches available via Sotheby’s x Bucherer Certified Pre-Owned appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.