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WATCHSPOTTING: Netflix documentary Schumacher reveals the F1 superstar’s brand travels Time+Tide
Sep 16, 2021

WATCHSPOTTING: Netflix documentary Schumacher reveals the F1 superstar’s brand travels

After what many would consider one of the most exciting Formula 1 Grand Prix weekends this year, the schedule presented us with an off weekend perfectly placed to catch our collective breaths. Yet, it seems Netflix wants to keep the momentum going because this week they released their documentary on one of the greatest F1 … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: Netflix documentary Schumacher reveals the F1 superstar’s brand travels appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Shades of blue: How Zenith conquered an entire colour by stealth Time+Tide
Zenith conquered Sep 16, 2021

Shades of blue: How Zenith conquered an entire colour by stealth

Things generally don’t work out too well when brands try to “own” a colour. Cadbury lost a five-year court battle to register their Dairy Milk shade of purple as a trademark for their chocolate bars, while the oil giant BP was similarly out of luck in its long-running bid to claim the colour green in … ContinuedThe post Shades of blue: How Zenith conquered an entire colour by stealth appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mike’s top 5 picks from Geneva Watch Days are basically: 1. Moser Streamliner PC 2. Moser 3. Streamliner etc Time+Tide
Sep 15, 2021

Mike’s top 5 picks from Geneva Watch Days are basically: 1. Moser Streamliner PC 2. Moser 3. Streamliner etc

Mike Christensen, our European Editor and one time foe when back in the day he was the captain of GQ Australia, is an aesthetic sort of chap. While he can appreciate a tourbillon with the best of us, his eyes are drawn more often to the lines of a case, the shade of a fumé … ContinuedThe post Mike’s top 5 picks from Geneva Watch Days are basically: 1. Moser Streamliner PC 2. Moser 3. Streamliner etc appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our best ever intern has grown up! Elise rejoins the team for Geneva Watch Days, and picks her five favourite watches Time+Tide
Sep 14, 2021

Our best ever intern has grown up! Elise rejoins the team for Geneva Watch Days, and picks her five favourite watches

If you could have gone back in time five years to the chateau of Franck Muller, on the shores of Lake Geneva and told both Elise Durr and I that one day she would be walking around the city, reporting on a watch fair for us at Time+Tide I’m not sure who would have been … ContinuedThe post Our best ever intern has grown up! Elise rejoins the team for Geneva Watch Days, and picks her five favourite watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 14, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium

First introduced as a handful of limited editions (including for Japanese retailer Yoshida), the minute repeating, luxury-sports watch has finally become a permanent addition to the Audemars Piguet catalogue with the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in Titanium. Despite its low-key looks, a tone-on-tone palette of a smoked, grey dial and brushed titanium case, the Royal Oak repeater  is loud – literally – thanks to the patented Supersonnerie system within, which produces chimes that are clearer and louder than those of a traditional striking wristwatch. Initial thoughts The superb acoustics are unquestionably the focal point of the latest from Audemars Piguet (AP) – it is undeniably a successful striking complication thanks to the clever case (we explained the Supersonnerie in an earlier story). But the design of the Royal Oak repeater is arguably near perfect and worth a leading mention. At a glance the repeater looks very much like a typical Royal Oak, but the dial layout gives it perhaps the most classical face amongst its siblings. It has no date, and instead a small seconds at six to replace the central seconds found on most Royal Oak models. The seconds-at-six layout is typical of a dress watch, and it isn’t special per se, but it is unique for a Royal Oak, which was after all designed as a sports watch. By way of its thinness (at least in its original ref. 5402 “Jumbo” guise), the Royal Oak has always retained an elegant air that resonates wit...

Taking another look at the curiously underrated Tudor Pelagos Time+Tide
Tudor Pelagos Sep 13, 2021

Taking another look at the curiously underrated Tudor Pelagos

For my 50th birthday my partner, Liz, asked me if there was anything from the Tudor range that I liked. This was incredibly impressive on two fronts. The first is that Liz is not really a watch person but has absorbed an awful lot of watch information just due to my obsession. Second, although I … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the curiously underrated Tudor Pelagos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Bell & Ross BR05 GMT SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR05 GMT Unveiled two Sep 13, 2021

Up Close: Bell & Ross BR05 GMT

Unveiled two years ago, the BR05 was Bell & Ross’ take on the integrated-bracelet sports watch – probably the hottest genre of watches now. The brand then followed up with a skeleton version and also the twin-counter BR05 chronograph. And now Bell & Ross takes the covers off perhaps the most useful iteration to date – the BR05 GMT. Though a newish arrival to a well-established genre, the BR05 was essentially derived from the brand’s trademark square watch case, a design dating to 2005 that was inspired by instrument panels of fighter jets. But the BR05 diverged from those military origins, acquiring a more refined, slightly retro appearance with its case finishing, a mix of polished and brushed surfaces, as well as an elegant integration of the bracelet. The new GMT sticks to the same design, while adding the utility of a second time zone. Initial thoughts When Bell & Ross (B&R;) offered to loan me a BR05 GMT prototype for a few days, I wasn’t expecting any surprises. But when I first got the watch in hand, I found the fit and finish unexpectedly good. The BR05 has an appealing, tactile feel, stemming from the sharply finished case and appealing design. My initial impressions were positive – the BR05 GMT lives up to the expectations set by its retail price. The best feature of the GMT is something it shares with its siblings in the collection, namely the BR05 case and bracelet. They are well finished and a good look. But the GMT stands out for its simplicity ...

HANDS ON – The Farer Segrave Monopusher Chronograph delivers a big eye with a colourful twist Time+Tide
Farer Segrave Monopusher Chronograph delivers Sep 13, 2021

HANDS ON – The Farer Segrave Monopusher Chronograph delivers a big eye with a colourful twist

Pride is not an emotion I often overplay when it comes to my Britishness, but last week while dipping in and out of appointments around Switzerland’s prettiest city for Geneva Watch Days I was brimming with the stuff – emanating predominately from my left wrist. You’ll be hard pressed to find a place where the … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON – The Farer Segrave Monopusher Chronograph delivers a big eye with a colourful twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Wyvern GMT Chronometer offers a stylish take on the most useful watch complication Time+Tide
Sep 13, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Wyvern GMT Chronometer offers a stylish take on the most useful watch complication

I love a good GMT. Who doesn’t? As a guy who works for an Australian watch website, while being based in New York City, there really is no better complication for me. That function has become so important in my daily life that I now analyze and evaluate every single GMT that gets released. All … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Wyvern GMT Chronometer offers a stylish take on the most useful watch complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5070/1P – Black Dial on Bracelet SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5070/1P – Black Sep 12, 2021

Auction Watch: Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5070/1P – Black Dial on Bracelet

Distinctive with its wide, flat bezel, the ref. 5070 was Patek Philippe’s last chronograph powered by the CH27-70 movement derived from the Lemania 2310. At 42 mm in diameter, the ref. 5070 was the largest high-end chronograph on the market at its launch in 1998. Amongst the four versions of the ref. 5070 – in rose, yellow, or white gold as well as platinum – the platinum version is the rarest. Around 250 were made according to Sotheby’s, with the standard guise for the platinum case being being a metallic, muted-blue dial. Produced at the “special request of an important client” in 2012, the  ref. 5070/1P-010 has a black dial, while preserving the standard dial design with its large, applied Arabic numerals in white gold. While the standard model is has the model reference 5070P, this example has the suffix “/1P”, indicating the monochromatic dial is matched by a platinum “brick” bracelet, an uncommon option only available via special order. Importantly, both the black dial and bracelet are mentioned on the certificate, which indicates the watch was sold at the Patek Philippe Salon in Geneva. The combination of a platinum case, black dial, and matching bracelet – familiar and simple but endlessly striking – has been seen before on other chronograph models, including a ref. 5004P that sold at Christie’s in 2019. But this is the first ref. 5070P in this livery to be offered publicly. Estimated at HK$4-8 million, or US$500,000-1 million, the uniq...

INTRODUCING: The Seiko SPB259 & SSA445 140th Anniversary Limited Editions Time+Tide
Grand Seiko have been serving up Sep 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko SPB259 & SSA445 140th Anniversary Limited Editions

I’ve got to admit, whenever I see 60th or 140th Anniversary in a press release my first thought is again? I mean this has been a celebration without end but, to be fair, I am all for it because Seiko and Grand Seiko have been serving up some quality releases within this anniversary series. Today is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko SPB259 & SSA445 140th Anniversary Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow: Embrace Your Guilty Pleasure! Quill & Pad
Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Sep 8, 2021

Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow: Embrace Your Guilty Pleasure!

The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow might look a bit whimsical at first, but it delivers joy in a very high-end way. Hublot has quite a reputation to uphold when it comes to rainbow watches after having launching its first in 2017, and this new watch feels like the brand has upped its game substantially. So embrace your guilty pleasure and find your pot of gold!

In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (sans Tourbillon) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5236P cost about Sep 8, 2021

In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (sans Tourbillon)

Launched earlier this year as its new flagship perpetual calendar wristwatch (replacing the venerable Langematik Perpetual), the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (L1 QP) appears to be a simplified version of the same watch with a tourbillon from 2012. But it is actually entirely different. Though the L021.3 inside the L1 QP borrows from the architecture of an existing calibre, it has been extensively reengineered and substantially upgraded, as is the norm for Lange. And despite the new mechanics, the L1 QP retains the assuringly familiar face of the Lange 1. Initial thoughts The L1 QP was long awaited for the simple reason that is makes a good idea – a calendar cleverly displayed in the distinctive layout of the Lange 1 dial – far more affordable than it was. When it was first launched, it was combined with a tourbillon, which lifted the price to well over US$300,000. Now the same calendar layout is available in a watch priced at about US$100,000. That’s still a lot of money, but within the ballpark for a perpetual calendar from a high-end brand. Comparable watches like the recent Patek Philippe ref. 5236P cost about the same. So price wise, the L1 QP is acceptable, even reasonable value, because it is an excellent perpetual calendar. The display is unique, but strongly functional. The crucial bits of information, namely date and month, are easily readable. Add to that the trademark, asymmetric layout of the Lange 1, and the result is a display that excels in both clarit...

Panerai Debuts a Smartly Minimalist Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Panerai Debuts Sep 7, 2021

Panerai Debuts a Smartly Minimalist Perpetual Calendar

Following the recent return of platinum to Panerai’s line up, the brand is continuing with precious metals, but this time with a far more elaborate movement boasting a perpetual calendar and GMT. Despite its complications, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar – available as the Goldtech PAM 742 or Platinumtech PAM 715 – is smartly designed, with a clean dial that’s typical of Panerai, clean enough it resembles as a day-date Panerai at a glance. Initial thoughts Arriving in a Panerai wristwatch for the very first time (though there was the co-branded Panerai-Ferrari FER015 of 2007), the perpetual calendar was only incorporated in one other Panerai timepiece, the uber-complicated planetarium clock made in 2014 to commemorate Gallileo Galilei. While simpler, the perpetual calendar wristwatch doesn’t disappoint, with its concise calendar display. While the complication is now common, few brands can boast calendar displays that are both distinctive and legible – Moser being one of the few. Perhaps more important for Panerai than any other brand, given the simplicity of its trademark design, the streamlined display means the Luminor Perpetual Calendar still looks very much like a typical Panerai. Unlike the recent time-only Platinumtech Luminor with blue hands, the Perpetual Calendar has pink gold hands that blend into the olive background better As the dial being the familiar Panerai design, it falls to the case materials to distinguish Luminor Perpetual from the...

Olympic swimmer Kyle Chalmers: “This silver medal means so much more than my gold” Time+Tide
Sep 7, 2021

Olympic swimmer Kyle Chalmers: “This silver medal means so much more than my gold”

A blink of the eye is usually judged to take one tenth of a second to complete. In the 100m freestyle, Kyle Chalmers missed out on Olympic gold by considerably less than that. Arch-rival Caeleb Dressel of the United States pipped the Aussie swimmer to the finish by just 0.06 seconds. After reviewing the race … ContinuedThe post Olympic swimmer Kyle Chalmers: “This silver medal means so much more than my gold” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction: The William Wood 9/11 Time For Heroes will help those who risk life and limb in the line of duty Time+Tide
Sep 7, 2021

Auction: The William Wood 9/11 Time For Heroes will help those who risk life and limb in the line of duty

Certain days in your life are impossible to forget. Some bring joy and happiness to your heart, like the day you get married or the birth of your first child. Other days, well, other days bring an immense amount of sadness. September 11th is that day for me and millions of other New Yorkers. On … ContinuedThe post Auction: The William Wood 9/11 Time For Heroes will help those who risk life and limb in the line of duty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTERVIEW: DJ Carl Cox reveals why he made a watch with Zenith Time+Tide
Zenith I’ve always had Sep 6, 2021

INTERVIEW: DJ Carl Cox reveals why he made a watch with Zenith

“I’ve always had a fascination with timepieces. As a DJ, back in the day, most of the records I bought didn’t have BPMs (beats per minutes) on them and, when you’re mixing, you need to know what they are. So you’d go to your watch and set your second hand to work out the record’s … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: DJ Carl Cox reveals why he made a watch with Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Brief History of the IWC Pilot’s Watch SJX Watches
IWC Pilot’s Watch One Sep 6, 2021

A Brief History of the IWC Pilot’s Watch

One of IWC’s signature wristwatch lines – the other being the Portugieser – is the Pilot’s Watch, a collection descended from the timepieces dating to the earliest days of aviation. Popular for its functional styling and general affordability, the Pilot’s Watch collection is regularly updated – IWC revamped the range in 2016, 2019, and again this year – and diverse. There are two threads running through IWC’s modern-day Pilot’s Watch collection that connect to the brand’s historical aviator’s watches: the smaller “Mark” watches typically associated with the British Royal Air Force (RAF) and the oversized “B-Uhr” made for the German air force of the Second World War. Big pilot and small pilot – Mark IX and B-uhr The origins IWC’s history in aviator’s watches started the Special Pilot’s Watch ref. 436, now widely known as the “Mark IX”. Conceived by the two sons of Ernst Jakob Homberger, the then-owner of IWC, the Mark IX was unveiled in 1936. Homberger’s sons were both licensed pilots and understood the features required for good pilot’s watch, resulting in style that is now synonymous with the pilot’s watch genre. IWC was not the only maker of pilot’s watches during the period, though it was arguably the most successful since it continued to be a leading supplier of aviator’s timepieces for the next two decades. The Mark IX had a 38 mm case – extraordinarily oversized in an era when the standard man’s watch was a...

MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return Time+Tide
Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes Sep 6, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return

Design is the language microbrands use best to communicate to collectors what it is they bring to the table. One microbrand who has done an amazing job of this is Brew Watch Company. Founded by designer Jonathan Ferrer in 2015, the company has released multiple collections, which feature attention-grabbing designs, that all focus on a … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.