Hodinkee
Introducing: Blancpain Kicks Off 70th Anniversary Celebration With A Limited Edition Fifty Fathoms
And a new (42mm) case, too.
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Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
30 Best Mechanical Watches Under $500
As new enthusiasts dip their toes in the waters of the watch world, it’s easy for them to become mired in watch-specific terminology that, while second nature to seasoned nerds, can prove challenging for anyone less experienced. Understanding the specific nature of the type of movement powering a watch is an excellent example of an area in which a little bit of research goes a long way in elevating your knowledge base and helping you to make an informed purchasing decision. Terms like quartz, mechanical, automatic, manual, and hand-winding are essential basic knowledge for anyone looking to bring their understanding of watches to the next level or purchase a new piece. In this article, we’ll take a look at some of the most prominent types of mechanical movement types on the market. First, we’ll create a high-level primer on how the most popular types of watch movements operate before digging into a list of some of the best options on the more attainable end of the spectrum for each respective movement type. To begin, let’s tackle the term “mechanical” as it relates to watches. In the modern watch world, the vast majority of watches fall into two major subsets. The first is quartz, which utilizes power from an installed battery to power a small circuit that measures timekeeping by way of an oscillating quartz crystal, shaped like a tiny tuning fork, which vibrates at exactly 32,768 per second, allowing for an impressively high level of accuracy. Quartz calibe...
Time+Tide
The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 - Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith
This past year was quite a journey for my collection, with new additions and trades – as I am known for every now and again. While I have been bad about it the last few months, with consecutive new watch addition honeymoon periods, typically I try to avoid wearing the same watch two days in … ContinuedThe post The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial”
Arguably the most significant Audemars Piguet timepiece ever, the Royal Oak celebrated its 50th anniversary last year with a host of new models, including the all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 and even a skeletonised, selfwinding flying tourbillon. And just before entering the New Year, Audemars Piguet (AP) dropped the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial”. Essentially identical to the standard model, the new version – which is available in either white or pink gold – is distinguished by its surface finishing: dimples on the dial and frosting on the bezel. Limited to 33 pieces each, the pair are primarily for Japan, with only a handful of watches available outside the country. According to our sources, the unusual combination of finishes were proposed by Japanese watch influencer Chronopeace, explaining why most of the run will be sold only in Japan – though this has neither been confirmed nor denied by AP. Initial thoughts I first heard about this discreet release when images were shared with me. As AP occasionally won’t say what drops, the watch was not announced officially, but instead quietly added to its online catalogue, perhaps because it is only available in Japan. Despite being low key, this new release will surely appeal to anyone who likes the Royal Oak but wants the added oomph of a special dial. At a glance, the watch easily reveals itself to be stunning. The layout and style are familiar, but the few tweaks to the dial an...
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Sonatina Peaceful Nature: Wind Down And Relax With This Wrist Zen Master
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous is a watch with delightful complications: an alarm watch with a day-night indicator. And the Rendez-Vous Sonatina Peaceful Nature offers a busy world some tranquil zen.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update
Davey boy, oh Davey boy. Barstool Sports founder Dave Portnoy has already found himself in hot water with, what he refers to, as “watch geeks”. The launch of his watch brand Brick Watch Company was absolutely ridiculed by watch enthusiasts online, the recurring theme being that his designs were unimaginative, generic, ugly and overpriced. In … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New with hands-on: #FR2NCK MULLER Vanguard
Frank Muller collaborates with Japanese streetware label #FR2 to create a new Vanguard with the DNA of both houses in the design language.
Time+Tide
The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun
It goes likes this: 8, 1, 6, 11, 4, 9, 2, 7, 12, 5, 10, 3. No, this isn’t some Fibonacci-like mathematical sequence, the combination to a very complicated electronic safe, or even a code for sending secret military messages via a cipher machine. It’s the order of numerals on the Art Deco dial of … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The top three Frederique Constant releases of 2022
Last year saw many brands reinvent themselves, create completely new collections, or try to grab hold of the latest hype train for dear life. Yet some brands doubled down on their sensibilities and reminded us what it is they stand for. One of those being Frederique Constant, who continue to grow as a company on … ContinuedThe post The top three Frederique Constant releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Which watch brand won 2022? Luke picks Omega - here are five reasons why…
When asked to give my thoughts on which watch brand “won” 2022, I feared for a second that it might be a trick question. That’s because, for me at least, the answer is so forehead-slappingly obvious that you’d need to perform all sorts of mental gymnastics to conceive of any vaguely credible challengers. Last year, … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? Luke picks Omega – here are five reasons why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: MB&F; Just Made The World’s Most Ambitious Watches For Women
The latest Legacy Machine Flying T is a partnership with hotshot jewelry designer Emmanuel Tarpin (the man behind Rihanna's earrings). And it provides an important lesson in how to make gem-set watches with rigor and imagination.
Quill & Pad
Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Dunes of Mars: The Red Planet on your Wrist
Mars is a planet with a lot of mystery, its red sand surface occupying the dreams of those who ache to set foot on its surface. For watch enthusiasts who want to make waiting until that happens a bit more bearable, Christiaan van der Klaauw introduces the Planetarium Dunes of Mars.
Time+Tide
The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire sits at the bleeding edge of technology and opulence
Swiss luxury powerhouse Hublot has long been known for their outsize watches for outsize personalities. The man responsible for the brand’s rise to fame, Jean-Claude Biver, always had a knack for making a big splash, none bigger than Hublot’s Big Bang line. Since its introduction in 2005, the Big Bang has been produced in a … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire sits at the bleeding edge of technology and opulence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Announces Prize for Independent Watchmakers
Independent watchmaking has been gaining rapid momentum in the last three years. Young and talented watchmakers have emerged to seek recognition (and sometimes riches) in the mould of Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe. Now the field is about to get the nod of approval from the luxury-goods establishment, with Louis Vuitton having announced the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Conceived to promote “horological creativity”, the award begins in 2023 with a broad remit. It is open to anyone in watchmaking and watch design, and even from fields related to horology. Initial thoughts As the world’s largest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has unsurprisingly been making high-end watches for some time – last year was the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical wristwatch. Following its acquisition of Geneva movement maker La Fabrique du Temps in 2012, the brand’s ambitions have grown, resulting in impressively complicated watches like the Tambour Carpe Diem, a minute repeater with automaton. From that perspective, the Louis Vuitton prize is a natural extension of the brand’s progress as a watchmaker, a way for Louis Vuitton to make known its commitment to high-end watchmaking. The fact that Louis Vuitton is using its considerable resources – the brand’s 2021 revenue was in the region of €15 billion – to support independent watchmakers is a welcome development. The prize money is substantial, reputedly in the low six ...
Revolution
Legends of Independent Watchmaking: Felix Baumgartner
Wei speaks one-on-one with Felix Baumgartner, a panelist from our Legends of Independent Watchmaking Horological Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2022, to look back at the highs and the lows of the last 25 years of URWERK. Felix, a master watchmaker, co-founded URWERK with designer Martin Frei in 1997 and the duo have been upending […]
Time+Tide
What will be the watch colour of the year in 2023?
A couple of years ago, the watch world became flooded with a sea of green. Dials were awash with the colour in multiple shades – from the Patek Phillippe Nautilus in a metallic shade of olive to the mossy hue of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18k. Green was the undisputed colour of the year. The … ContinuedThe post What will be the watch colour of the year in 2023? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The 15 Best Watches Under $200 for New Collectors
Seeking out the best watches under $200 is not, it’s fair to say, a pastime for many serious, seasoned watch collectors, most of whom have access to a fairly large checkbook and are armed with a wealth of knowledge about all the most coveted brands and models out there. But every watch collection starts somewhere and every watch collector starts out as someone who’s new to the timepiece game, often also young and yet to embark on the accumulation of resources that would enable them to play at the higher echelons of timepiece collecting. With that in mind, we gave ourselves a challenging price limit of $200 and sought out 15 watches worth a look - whether you’re a newbie or one of those deep-pocketed watch veterans who can’t resist a bargain. Orient Bambino V4 Blue Dial Price: $200, Reference: FAC08004D0, Case Size: 42 mm, Case Height: 11.8 mm, Lug To Lug: 48.2 mm, Lug Width: 22 mm, Crystal: Domed Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic Often under the radar of American watch consumers and overshadowed by its much larger Japanese brethren, Citizen and Seiko (which with it shares a corporate connection through Epson), Orient has been making value-oriented watches in Japan since 1950. The Bambino is Orient’s dressy gents’ model, fairly large in diameter at 42 mm with a domed crystal. The dial’s gradation sweeps from a bright blue center to black at the edges. Inside is an in-house movement, the automatic Orient F6724, with a hacking seconds f...
Time+Tide
Which watch brand won 2022? Zach picks Cartier - here’s why…
Editor’s note: During one of our final editorial meetings of the year, the question was posed: which watch brand won 2022? This then raises the question of what it means to win. Is it total revenue? Likes on social media? Page views on our site? The number of watch spots in the wild? There is no one … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? Zach picks Cartier – here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel
In an unexpected, end-of-year announcement, Audemars Piguet unveiled the Code 11.59 Starwheel, reviving the wandering hours complication that had been absent from its catalogue since 2003. Inspired by a 17th century clock, the wandering hours made its way into wristwatches thanks to Audemars Piguet (AP), which debuted the first wristwatch with the display in 1991. Retaining the familiar three-disc hour display, the new Starwheel is nonetheless an entirely different watch from the compact original. Powered by an in-house movement contained in the Code 11.59 case, the Starwheel has physical presence by virtue of its size, but also a surprising degree of refinement thanks to the excellent finishing of the dial and case. Initial thoughts With a modern look defined by dark colours and instrument-like numerals, the Code 11.59 Starwheel looks pretty much the same as it does in photos – but it is far more appealing than expected. In the metal the watch has an impressive degree of visual detail, particularly the polished bevels on the dial components, and a reassuringly solid feel, all of which give it a great deal of tactile appeal. The refinement in terms of visual detail also translates into the movement, which is in-house both in terms of the base and module. Although it functions identically to the original Star Wheel, the Code 11.59 model has an improved display mechanism. Instead of the periodic rotation found in the original model, the discs rotate continually throughout ...
Deployant
Top 10 most popular posts for 2022
As we kick off our first publishing day for 2023, we take a moment to review what you told us were the most popular posts for 2022.
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword 2022 recap part two (#15-28)
One Sunday morning, I was sitting on the couch having a New York Times mini-crossword race with my brother. It was a pretty close battle, luck of the prompts really, where he got caught up on one of the clues allowing me to come from behind and complete it before him. But in the silent … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword 2022 recap part two (#15-28) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
A New Year’s Greeting from Grail Watch: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein
We usher in the new year with Grail Watch 4, a dream collaboration between Bell & Ross, the brand that became a modern icon of the military-inspired genre and Alain Silberstein, an iconoclast of design that introduced the abstract to the world of watches. Both of our collaborators were pioneers in breaking the mold within […]
Quill & Pad
What I Learned During Quarantine: Flash Shooting With The Hasselblad X1D II And Godox V1 Flash - Reprise
From the torrent of really well done watch photos appearing on Instagram and other media these days, it appears as though lots of watch enthusiasts have been spending at least some of their time in COVID-19-induced shutdowns polishing their macro photography and wrist shooting. And GaryG is among them. Here he shares a few of the thousands of photos he has taken recently using a new-to-him flash style.
Deployant
Wishing all our readers a very happy and prosperous New Year!
We take a break today to celebrate the new year. Happy New Year for a great 2023 from all of us at Deployant. We will be back tomorrow.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap
With the heat from integrated-bracelet sports watches showing no signs of cooling off, more and more brands are getting into the game. And in some cases, they’re resurrecting those bold designs from their own back catalogues, which is exactly what Chopard did in 2019, when it released the Alpine Eagle to great fanfare. The Alpine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series Limited Editions
The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series Limited Editions are a beautiful and high-quality set of timepieces. The attention to detail in the design is evident in every aspect of the watch, from the elegant and sophisticated dial to the sharp, angular case. The limited edition models are available in a 3 hands date or GMT configuration.
Time+Tide
The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is a truly high-end digital watch
When I think of digital watches, my mind immediately goes to a display carousel stocked with black plastic quartz watches priced at $9.99 at a discount superstore. What I don’t think of is the upper echelons of high horology, where the crafting of mechanical masterpieces is akin to religion. Yet here is where the breathtaking … ContinuedThe post The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is a truly high-end digital watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365: Celebrating 220 Years Since The Invention Of The Tourbillon With Easter Eggs - Reprise
The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 marks the 220th anniversary of the invention of the tourbillon by Abraham-Louis Breguet, and it approaches the milestone with restraint and an 'Easter egg' nod to those in the know.
Deployant
Hi End Bicycles: presenting the new (2022 model) Trek Madone
We continue with our exploration on high end bicycles with the 2022 Trek Madone Project One with Enve SES wheelset and Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 /
Time+Tide
Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world
Watches. They broadly tell the time, but the way in which they do so is where things get interesting. You have your minimalists, which strip things down to the barest of elements: an hour and minute hand. Once you begin to add complications, like a second hand, a chronograph function, day/date apertures, perpetual calendars, and … ContinuedThe post Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.