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Oris Releases the Dat Watt Limited Edition II, their Second Collaboration with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat Worn & Wound
Oris Releases Aug 14, 2023

Oris Releases the Dat Watt Limited Edition II, their Second Collaboration with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat

The latest release from Oris, and one that highlights their ongoing Change for the Better initiative, is a sequel of sorts to a watch that became a cult hit when it was released in 2021. The Dat Watt Limited Edition II is very much in the same vein as the original Dat Watt Limited Edition, but with a few twists to make this new LE its own thing. Its release comes alongside an announcement from Oris that they’ve extended their relationship with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat (CWSS) by another two years, the organization that works to protect the Wadden Sea, which provides the inspiration for the new watch.  The Wadden Sea covers 11,500 square kilometers in northern Europe, and includes shoreline in Denmark, Germany, and the Netherlands. This intertidal zone is a unique geographical space in that it happens to be the world’s largest unbroken tidal flats system, and is in a largely undisturbed state, thanks in part to the efforts of the CWSS. Because of the area’s size and the fact that it has been so well protected, it’s an important area for the study of the 10,000 species that live there. The Wadden Sea has held UNESCO World Heritage Site status since 2009 based on its importance to global biodiversity.  Like the first Dat Watt Limited Edition, this new release uses the Aquis diver as a platform, here in its 43.5mm footprint. The dial’s green tone is inspired by the waters in the Wadden Sea’s salt marshes, which act as critical natural storage for CO2. Thi...

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[VIDEO] Review: the Sublimely Sage Ressence Type 8S Worn & Wound
Ressence Type 8S There Aug 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: the Sublimely Sage Ressence Type 8S

There is a big difference between seeing a watch at a trade show, meetup, or boutique and living with one. In the former experiences, it’s very easy to be immediately taken with something. The energy of the environment, the thrill of trying on watches, perhaps a champagne or two, create a level of excitement that overlays everything you touch and see. As such, the watches we get to experience in these shows need to be taken out into the less flattering light of the real world to truly know if that excitement was genuine, or just a by-product of the situation in which they were introduced. One brand I’ve always been very taken with, especially when I’ve gotten to handle their wares at Watches and Wonders, is Ressence. For those unfamiliar with the Haute-independent brand, it was founded by Benoît Mintiens in 2010 with the goal of rethinking how a watch displays time. The solution found didn’t recreate the wheel, though it did heavily modify it. Utilizing a patented module design called the Ressence Orbital Convex System or ROCS, Mintiens, an industrial designer by trade, eliminated the use of classic hands. Instead, the whole dial becomes an active surface for telling the time with satellite sub-registers floating within a larger, always-in-motion, display. In 2022 they unveiled the Type 8, their simplest and lowest-priced model. The following year, they introduced it in a lovely, pale green and called it the Type 8S, for sage. Both years I left their booth a bit g...

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The Longines Hydroconquest is Now a True GMT SJX Watches
Longines Hydroconquest Aug 14, 2023

The Longines Hydroconquest is Now a True GMT

Longines’ contemporary diver that’s been in the catalogue for over 16 years, the Hydroconquest now gets an upgrade with a new complication. The Hydroconquest GMT is the first model in the line-up with a dual time zone. In contrast to the bolder-looking time-only counterparts, the new GMT is accompanied by a pared-back, legible dial complemented with a unidirectional ceramic bezel and the brand’s latest automatic calibre. Initial thoughts The Hydroconquest tends to receive less attention compared to dive watches from other brands in this price range. In my view, this can be ascribed to its dial design that was bold with oversized numerals positioned at six, nine, and 12, yet not particularly distinctive. Longines probably realised this and smartly developed a new timepiece with a practical complication while tweaking the dial layout and getting rid of these oversized numerals. The shift from oversized numerals to more conventional indices is particularly notable on the green and brown dials where the colours underscore the carefully thought-out design. Purists might argue for eliminating the date window to further streamline the dial, though that would remove one of the key elements of a traditional GMT watch.  The Hydroconquest GMT is priced at US$2,675 on a NATO strap, with a rubber strap or steel bracelet available for an extra US$100. This is good value, particularly since the watch includes a bona fide GMT function with an independent local-time hour hand, all f...

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HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph Aug 14, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo

When it comes to big watch fairs like Watches & Wonders Geneva, it’s often the brands that aren’t officially exhibiting at the show that have some of the most exciting releases. Step out of the frenetic hive of activity that is Palexpo and go exploring Geneva’s streets, hotels and bars and you’ll find all manner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Lang 1943 Field Watch Edition One: Competitively Priced and Approaching Perfection Quill & Pad
Aug 14, 2023

Lang 1943 Field Watch Edition One: Competitively Priced and Approaching Perfection

Lang 1943 is not a homage, it stands its own ground and can best be summarized as a beautiful tool. The first thing that the team at Lang 1943 got right was the proportions. A diameter of 39mm is spot on, particularly when the thickness is just 8.40 mm. This results in a timepiece that is comfortable to wear, large enough to be easy to read, but not overly bulky that it hinders movements.

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The Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space sports a star-struck dial and some fine movement finishing Time+Tide
Aug 14, 2023

The Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space sports a star-struck dial and some fine movement finishing

Sometimes, hearing about a new brand named after someone you’ve never heard of, some alarm bells ring. It’s a fairly classic trick used by companies to instil a sense of heritage for watches that are designed out of a catalogue and mass-manufactured for profit. Oliver Gallaugher couldn’t be further away from that stereotype, proudly attaching … ContinuedThe post The Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space sports a star-struck dial and some fine movement finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face Time+Tide
Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor Aug 13, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face

It may come as a bit of a surprise, but I often compare Rolex and Cartier due to a strong commonality. Yes, they are very different brands with very different products. But an element I believe they do share is a very key point. Watch enthusiasts often point out that Rolex practises incremental updates. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A Week In Watches, Ep. 61: New Dial Colors Galore, & A Redesigned Longines HydroConquest Worn & Wound
Glashütte Original Nomos Aug 13, 2023

A Week In Watches, Ep. 61: New Dial Colors Galore, & A Redesigned Longines HydroConquest

A Week In Watches returns with a look at a plethora of new releases that include updates from Christopher Ward, Glashütte Original, Nomos, and Tissot. Everyone has a new dial color or case size, it would seem, but they all work well here, bringing new renditions to old favorites, and further dialing in already great platforms. The big news this week comes from Longines, who redesigned their HydroConquest family with a new collection of GMT watches. Unique colorways and a few odd details on the dial preserve some of that classic HydroConquest character, while showing some serious sings of maturity in the process. In other news, we’re about a year away from the 2024 summer Olympic games in Paris, and Omega is ready to kick things off with a new Seamaster 300 commemorating the games. Omega and the Olympics go way back, like way way back, so it’s no surprise to see Omega getting a head start on things with a new LE, and we suspect that this won’t be the last to do so. Finally, can you ever have too much of a good thing? Tissot doesn’t think so, and just keeps iterating on the wildly popular PRX range, most recently with new dial colors and even a fully gold plated example in their 35mm Powermatic 80 PRX line. It should come as no surprise that they work rather well. Catch more details on these watches in our full intro. Reminder that you can catch us again in 2 weeks for more watches, people, and news in episode 62 of A Week In Watches. The post A Week In Watches, Ep....

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New releases from Breitling, Norqain, Oris and more Time+Tide
Breitling Norqain Oris Aug 12, 2023

New releases from Breitling, Norqain, Oris and more

This week was a little surprising with Breitling quietly releasing several models (including a limited edition) and a couple of independents who presented classically inspired timepieces. Is it a sign that unfortunately summer is coming to an end? Here are some of the best new releases from this past week. Norqain Neverest GMT Glacier 41mm … ContinuedThe post New releases from Breitling, Norqain, Oris and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph Time+Tide
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Aug 12, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph

Watches & Wonders 2023 feels like a lifetime ago, but certain releases have stuck with us. Chopard’s L.U.C collection continues to impress with every release, and they doubled down on proving their worth at Watches & Wonders by unveiling both a reissue and a new design. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 returns to the collection’s 1997 … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tissot Seastar Chronograph 1000 Ref Aug 11, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Chris Plant

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Chris Plant, aka @mister_wrist_er on Instagram, gives us a look at a trio of watches from his own collection that fit the $5,000 collection bill perfectly. These watches suit his lifestyle and needs, which you can read more about on his own blog, misterwrister.ca, where he documents his horological journey, including the three watches below. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. The three watches that I chose make up a perfectly balanced collection for me. I have the rugged, Swiss quartz dive watch that will never fail me even in the deepest depths, the deliciously vintage inspired dress watch for life’s more refined situations, and a steel sports watch that has the ideal mix of historical significance, robust capability and generational provenance. Tissot Seastar Chronograph 1000 (Ref. T120.417.17.041.00) – $550   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Mister Wrister (@mister_wrist_er) When I began building my watch collection, I needed to find a watch that would become my Go Anywhere Do Anything choice. I had several criteria in mind. Firstly, it needed to be a watch capable of keeping up with my lifestyle, whether it was running with my Pomsky puppy in the park, wandering across the busy streets of Montreal, or hiking on one of the numerous mountain trails outside city. Secondly, it had to be a dive watch. Strapping on...

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Review: The Horage Lensman 2 Brian Griffin Edition Worn & Wound
Timex Aug 11, 2023

Review: The Horage Lensman 2 Brian Griffin Edition

Okay, before we even get one more word into this, no, it’s not that Brian Griffin. All homages to one of the world’s most famous animated dogs are relegated to Timex and their appreciation for Snoopy. Brian Griffin is a renowned photographer and filmmaker best known for his work capturing 1980’s pop musicians, earning him the title of “Photographer of the Decade ” by The Guardian in 1989. His understanding of lighting techniques and how they were depicted on film are unparalleled, and Horage crafting a special edition timepiece inspired by his work makes a ton of sense. That’s what we’re looking at today - Horage’s wrist-worn cheat sheet for manual photography. Featuring a rotating bezel and some clever dial design, you can use the watch on your wrist to nail the perfect exposure. As someone who spends quite a bit of time behind a camera, I enjoy that this watch is a fun and functional ode to photography, and I’m here for it. There’s a lot going on with this retro-cool square watch, so let’s break it down. Case Featuring a “Hybrid Bi-metallic Exoskeleton Case,” the Lensman 2 is using a lot of fancy words to say that it’s crafted from two metals. The inner case is made from anodized matte black aluminum, while the outer case is rendered in a polished grade 5 titanium. The way that it’s designed makes it so the most exposed surfaces are the more durable titanium, while the softer black aluminum inside keeps the weight of the watch down and add...

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Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term Time+Tide
Swatch Aug 11, 2023

Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term

A couple of weeks ago, T+T reported how Swatch were suing the Malaysian government after it seized 172 of their watches from stores. The reason for the seizure?  The watches, which come in either rainbow colours or a single colour with a rainbow trim, were released in support of Pride, the movement that promotes the … ContinuedThe post Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Glacier References with Dials Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall Worn & Wound
Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Aug 11, 2023

Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Glacier References with Dials Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall

Adventure and a well-made timepiece have long gone hand-in-hand. From Arctic expeditions to sailing adventures, the spirit of discovery is only enhanced by a great watch to keep one company. One natural landmark above all others seems to encapsulate the spirit of adventure, while simultaneously showing us the beauty of the natural world: Mount Everest. With its dangerous valleys, snowy peaks, and legendary status in our collective imagination, Mount Everest has captured thrill seekers for centuries. It’s no wonder, then, that NORQAIN has added two new models to its NEVEREST range, each continuing to highlight the exceptionalism of the world’s tallest mountain. Each watch in this new release takes on its own interpretation of mountaineering excellence with a modern feel, making for a unique interpretation of Mount Everest’s legacy that doesn’t feel too contrived or on the nose. For example, the NEVEREST GMT Glacier Grey & Gold takes inspiration from the gold light-filled crevasses of the mountain with a “cracked” gold dial against a black background. The watch is complemented by a 41mm stainless steel case, a date window at 3 o’clock, red gold-plated hands, and Superluminova hands and indices. It’s the small details of this watch which show not only an attention to detail, but an imagination to marry performance and aesthetics. The second release from the NEVEREST line-up is the 40mm Glacier Black & Gold. Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall, the most dangerous pa...

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In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1 SJX Watches
Aug 11, 2023

In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1

Marco Lang made a comeback in 2020 with his eponymous brand and the Zweigesicht-1. The year before the German watchmaker departed his prior brand after disagreements with the investor who was the majority owner, which allowed Mr Lang to revert to being a true independent watchmaker. Despite a relatively conservative face, the Zweigesicht is quirky and original from a technical perspective. Zwei gesicht translates as “double faced”, which describes the watch literally. It has two faces, one on each side of the case, both of which indicate the time. The watch can be worn on either side thanks to lugs that are removable (in an operation that requires delicate manual work). And the movement incorporates a novel, and perhaps unnecessary, shock recorder. Initial thoughts To start with, zwei gesicht is a mouthful for non-German speakers. Perhaps for that reason, fellow German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne opted for made-up words like Zeitwerk and Datograph. But despite the unfamiliar name, the watch is elegant in form, measuring under 10 mm high, and impressive in decoration and construction. The zwei gesicht nature of the watch gives it two distinct appearances, a low-key conventional front and an elaborate, mechanical reverse. Two-faced watches are not new by any means, but Mr Lang’s approach is notable for rely on conventional lugs and by consequence, maintaining a classical appearance. In contrast, most double-faced watches are either rectangular or have unusual lugs. T...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Geoff Hess joins Sotheby’s as Head of Watches for the Americas Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Geoff Hess joins Sotheby’s as Head of Watches for the Americas

It’s that time of year where the Swiss typically go on holiday, which means there’s less news about fresh releases this week. Nonetheless, some big news was announced at Sotheby’s, when Geoff Hess was revealed as the esteemed auction house’s new Head of Watches for the Americas region. “It is my honour to take up … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Geoff Hess joins Sotheby’s as Head of Watches for the Americas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The new Vero Smokey Bear editions offer a timely reminder of man’s influence on nature Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2023

The new Vero Smokey Bear editions offer a timely reminder of man’s influence on nature

Smokey Bear became established as a quintessential figure for all Americans towards the end of World War II. The character was created in 1944 to help prevent forest fires, and his role today might be even more relevant due to the continuing rise in global temperatures and  devastating wildfires. Smokey Bear’s mission, therefore, transcends borders … ContinuedThe post The new Vero Smokey Bear editions offer a timely reminder of man’s influence on nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Longines Redesigns HydroConquest With New GMT Collection Worn & Wound
Longines Redesigns HydroConquest Aug 10, 2023

Longines Redesigns HydroConquest With New GMT Collection

Longines’ polarizing dive watch collection, the HydroConquest, has received a major overhaul from the Swatch Group brand, featuring a GMT compilation for the first time since 2007. This is still a true dive capable watch through and through, integrating the GMT component in a more subtle manner than you might imagine. As we’ve come to expect from Longines recently, this new collection is kicking off with a plethora of earth tone color schemes, and multiple strap options. There is some retro-inspiration happening here, but this one doesn’t feel like a throwback. If you weren’t fond of the 5 stars of the dial of the Zulu Time, this might be the one you’ve been waiting for.  The new HydroConquest is built within a steel case that measures 41mm in diameter and 12.9mm in thickness, and places a large rotating bezel assembly front and center. Rather than placing the 24 hour scale on the bezel, they’ve reserved this element for the watch’s diving ambitions, and it is graduated to the minutes as you might expect. The 24 hour scale is moved to the rehaut  at the perimeter of the dial, and is bi-color to separate the halves of the day. It’s a graceful implementation that retains enough functionality to be practical, though perhaps not quite as quick to read at a glance compared to other GMT watches. Moving into the dial things get a bit more interesting still, with some unusual but welcome decisions being made that help this watch stand on its own. First, the dial ...

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Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem: Reflections of a Laser Physicist on ‘Saxem’ Quill & Pad
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Aug 10, 2023

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem: Reflections of a Laser Physicist on ‘Saxem’

In early 2023, Hublot introduced the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem, featuring a case made of a mysterious and rather impressive-looking crystal called Saxem. It looked like an addition to the brand's extensive line of sapphire watches. But as a retired laser physicist, I wondered: what material was behind that name? Perhaps a special kind of synthetic sapphire?

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