Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Rolex 'Great White' Sea-Dweller, An Omega 'Ed White' Speedmaster 321, And A Black Cartier Tank Must
Plus a Breitling Premier Datora and a limited Panerai Mare Nostrum.
308 articles · 5 videos found · page 7 of 11
Louis Cartier's 1917 rectangular design, inspired by the Renault FT tank.
22 × 29.5 mm × 6.6 mm, lug 16 mm, Quartz
25.5 × 33.7 mm × 6.6 mm, lug 18 mm, Cal. 1917 MC
29.5 × 39.2 mm × 7.2 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 1917 MC
Hodinkee
Plus a Breitling Premier Datora and a limited Panerai Mare Nostrum.
Hodinkee
Plus a Senator Excellence from Glashütte Original, and a Radiomir GMT from Panerai.
Revolution
Revolution
Hodinkee
Plus a PanoReserve from Glashütte in this week’s selection.
Hodinkee
With multiple treatments to chose from, Louis Cartier's iconic watch finally joins the Privé collection. And check out those bracelets!
Revolution
Hodinkee
A quartet ranging from modern minimalism to glamorous glitz.
Hodinkee
Whoops, now I have both.
Revolution
Hodinkee
Minimalism and yellow gold are quite the pairing.
Hodinkee
It's the dawn of a new era.
Hodinkee
There May just be something for everyone in this week's selection.
Quill & Pad
It’s still all about the people! Nothing makes GaryG happier than getting together and talking watches. At the F.P. Journe New York Boutique anniversary dinner late 2019, he had the pleasure of chatting with entrepreneur, television personality, and enthusiast watch collector Kevin O’Leary. In this post, he comes back to him with specific questions . . . and gets the answers!
Hodinkee
Another Friday, another selection of great watches from around the web.
Hodinkee
Your weekly round-up of watches from around the 'net is back!
Revolution
Over the years Cartier has build a stunning collection of skeleton watches. Transparency has been an integral part of the Maison’s style for decades, from the first mystery clocks created in 1912 to the skeletonised movements of the 1930s. And recently for the Fine Watch Making Collection, La Maison created the Santos 100, Santos Dumont, […]
Revolution
This year Cartier Amsterdam organised for the 10th. time their Cartier Polo Summer games at the estate ‘Groot Kantwijk’, not far from Amsterdam. Every year this is a huge and successful event and at this level, it is in fact unique in the Netherlands. Among the guests were even many Polo players from Argentina. Cartier […]
Revolution
Worn & Wound
Doxa is on a historic, Anne Hathaway-like tear in 2026. The Oscar winning actress will appear in a total of five films by the end of the year, including The Odyssey (a huge hit), The Devil Wears Prada II (also a huge hit), and Mother Mary (very much not a hit but one of my personal favorites of the year so far). Doxa, similarly, is on a bit of a heater, releasing the Sub 200 T.Graph, a well received collaboration with Hodinkee, a Clive Cussler LE, and another LE with Topper Jewelers all in rapid succession. This week, they show that they still have some gas left in the tank for an additional late summer release, this time with San Diego based Belmont Watches. The new Doxa Sub 300 Beta “Frogger” plays into the military history of San Diego. The city is currently home to the Naval Amphibious Base Colorado and SEAL Team 1, and was formerly the headquarters of the Navy Underwater Demolition Team, known commonly as the Frogmen. The watch, then, is appropriately tool-forward, the type of watch Doxa and Belmont figure might be on the wrist of a SEAL at some point, either on a dive or topside. The dial is in a dark green tone with a prominent texture, the hands are a bright contrasting orange (and the same style as those found on the Doxa Army), and this edition incorporates applied markers. Most notable however, is the fully sandblasted case and bracelet, which is a first for Doxa. That’s a bit of a surprise, to me, given how beloved these watches are as dive tools by rea...
Teddy Baldassarre
No screens, no charging cables, no notifications - just a tactical tank for the wrist.More
SJX Watches
The many shapes of Cartier were on full display at Cartier during Watches & Wonders, where the brand released the Privé Les Opus, a trio of platinum models with burgundy accents to mark the 10th anniversary of the brand’s Privé collection. The Crash Squelette is the only all-new model — with a new open-worked calibre — and the only limited edition. The Tank Normale and Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir tread little new ground, but the platinum-and-burgundy livery is easy to like, and manages to be both distinctive and discreet. Initial thoughts Cartier occupies an enviable position in the luxury watch landscape, being the only brand among the top 10 luxury watchmakers (by revenue) with a sizable jewellery business. Perhaps for this reason, it’s also the only brand to achieve this level of success primarily on the basis of design, rather than technical innovation or haute horlogerie complications. The Opus trio proves why. Cartier earned its reputation as the “watchmaker of shapes” over more than a century, and today enjoys a rich back catalogue of designs. The three models chosen to represent the 10th anniversary of the brand’s high-end Privé line — the Tank Normale, the Crash, and the Tortue Monopoussoir — are among the fan favourites. The Tank Normale — especially on this bracelet — is one of my favourite Cartier models, offering a truly vintage look with modern build quality. Reflecting Cartier’s growth as an industrial watchmaker, each watch...
Monochrome
Compact and elegant watches can be timeless for a reason. It’s almost always a case of less is more, or offering something uniquely creative without overdoing it. Naturally, most people’s first thought will go to icons such as the Cartier Tank or the Patek Philippe Calatrava. Still, with the recent resurgence in the popularity of dress […]
WatchRider
Finding a truly small automatic watch is surprisingly difficult. Finding one in a refined, vintage-inspired “tank” (rectangular) silhouette is almost impossible in modern horology. That’s what makes the Orient FNRAP004W0 in rose gold such a special gem. Having owned and worn this piece for many years, I can confidently say it remains one of the most charming, reliable, and unique watches in my collection. The Secret in the Back Perhaps the most impressive feature is what you cannot see from the top. For me, the absolute standout feature of the Orient FNRAP004W0 is what happens when you take it off and flip it over. Most watchmakers assume that anyone wanting a small, dressy tank watch does not care about what is inside, usually opting to drop in a cheap, battery-powered quartz movement. Orient, true to its Japanese horological roots, took the harder path. Inside this tiny case beats an in-house Japanese automatic movement( Cal. 55742). The fact that Orient engineered a self-winding mechanical engine to fit inside such a slender, 11.95 mm-thick frame is a quiet flex of their watchmaking prowess. Art Deco Charm While the technical feat under the hood earns respect from watch enthusiasts, the external design is what wins hearts on a daily basis: The Warmth of Rose Gold: The rose gold-plated stainless steel case gives the watch an understated, warm elegance. It avoids the flashiness of yellow gold, making it easy to style whether you’re dressed up for an even...
Hodinkee
The third time is the charm, as we recently hosted the third edition of what's quickly becoming a regular fixture on the calendar—Hodinkee Happy Hour. Grotta, our local watering hole, was the venue this time around, and the room delivered the same energy as always. Great conversations, great company, and no shortage of great watches to look at—a few of which you'll see below. If you made it out, thank you for coming. If not, we'll be doing it again at the end of July. Follow us on Instagram to be the first to know when RSVPs open. Blancpain Léman Perpetual Calendar Flyback Chronograph A Cartier Tank Basculante in it's natural form... ... and in motion. Alex Chou wearing his A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1. Katie Penner, of Watches of Switzerland, and Hodinkee Video Editor Max Rosen. A trio of Ressence. A look at a F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain (on bracelet, no less) from the front... ... and the back. Vertex M36 Desert Edition. A little two-tone love for the Zenith Chronomaster Sport... And Rolex Datejust. Rolex Submariner. Rolex Cosmograph "Alcaraz" Daytona on an Oysterflex bracelet. Vacheron Contantin 333. A Swiss "Chronographe Suisse" Chonograph... (Swiss, chronograph, Swiss, chronograph, swiss...) Omega Seamaster De Ville and a good ol' pie-pan Omega Seamaster. Panerai Luminor Marina. Right, Editor-in-Chief James Stacey is wearing his DWC Terra. Urwerk UR-120.
Hodinkee
Cartier has always chosen to tell time a little differently. From the first Santos wristwatch in a distinct square case, to its compelling mystery clocks, the unorthodox Tank à Guichet, the counter-intuitive Santos-Dumont Rewind, and the magic of the Masse Mystérieuse, it's a mainstream maison that has rarely approached the art of telling time by running with the pack. Roy Davidoff (left), a vintage watch dealer and expert, and Kari Voutilainen (right), the renowned independent watchmaker, were among the panel of judges tasked with ranking the unique projects submitted for the Cartier Prize for Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow. That unique sensibility is at the heart of the Cartier Prize For Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow. It's an accolade that's been awarded 28 times over three decades. But Cartier has rarely spoken about the initiative that began way back in 1995. For its latest edition, we were given a glimpse into the process in which watchmaking students from Switzerland, France, and Belgium were tasked with creating a timepiece based on the motion of a pendulum and the theme of "reading and understanding time differently." The resulting creations from 11 finalist watchmaking students, tasked with building a piece in just 80 hours over three months, displayed both technical prowess and artistic expression, conveying bold and surprising approaches to telling time within the Cartier design language. Prizes were awarded at a ceremony in La Chaux-de-Fonds at C...
Hodinkee
Pitti Uomo, Florence's biannual fashion week and perhaps the world's foremost gathering of stylish men, arrived this year amid an epic heatwave. Thousands of designers, buyers, and guests made the pilgrimage anyway—sleeves rolled, shorts short, shirts linen. Hodinkee was there to document what they were wearing on their wrists. Rolex Sea-Dweller. A few trends worth noting: the "vacation watch" has arrived as a legitimate category. Quirky, colorful, and valued less for their specs than for the memories attached to them. Panerais, meanwhile, are making a quiet resurgence in their home city. Steel Rolexes and Omegas remain ubiquitous, as they have been for the past two years. But the men of Pitti Uomo are increasingly hunting smaller, more obscure, and frankly more interesting pieces. A vintage Jaeger wristwatch was the highlight for me personally. Enjoy! Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116520. Vintage Piaget. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds. Panerai Luminor Power Reserve Automatic. Noah x Timex Lighthouse Watch. Rolex Bubbleback. Emilie Hawtin, founder of women's tailoring brand Clementina, with her Rolex Lady Datejust. Swatch Gent. Rolex Explorer. Baltic Tricompax Tour Auto. Longines Spirit Zulu Time. Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570. Benrus Type II. Darte x Praesidus X-1. A Longines Heritage 1945 that was inspired by a watch that Ben Clymer used to own. Q Timex Vintage Hodinkee Limited Edition. Emporio Armani Sinfonia. Cartier Santos. Cartier Tank Mus...
Hodinkee
What We Know There's just something about the Daniel Roth case that makes for an excellent watch. On the wrist, the ellipsocurvex shape sits comfortably between a round dress watch and a tank, and with the Extra-Plat case (extra-flat, in English) and slightly dropped lugs, it has incredible appeal once you put it on. Which makes it especially hard to convey that in text, but I'll try my best with the newest version that launched today, the Extra Plat Platinum model. I saw the watch a few months ago when the brand also announced the Extra Plat Skeleton, which was impressive in its own way. But I'd been waiting for a white metal Extra Plat since the brand relaunched (even though the price tag was bound to be outside my range). The Extra Plat Souscription was announced only a little over a year ago, and the new platinum version is already the fourth variant in the lineup (yellow gold for the souscription, rose for the next, the rose gold skeleton, and now this). There are only so many ways you can play with the concept, but the details matter even more because of it. The Souscription, pictured below, had a tonal dial and case with blue printing and hands, a treatment I liked a lot. I actually asked whether the brand planned to take the same approach with the following releases, and the answer, at the time, was no. I think the result is, frankly, a bit more legible. For comparison, I'm showing them all below, and you get a taste of what the front and back look like at the sa...
Hodinkee
It's time for the Geneva spring auctions, the premier venue for the biggest lots and market-moving of the year. That's not to say that Hong Kong (which sometimes comes before, sometimes comes after) or New York (which rounds out the season) won't have some big lots. Sotheby's Hong Kong sale—which we covered previously—closed over the weekend with an absolutely shockingly great result, with massive prices across the board, especially for Cartier. The final total? $52,875,885, which is more than $10 million more than their previous record. That included nearly $2 million for a Cartier London Crash, a London Tank Asymétrique went for a surprising $750,000, a skeletonized Baignoire was just shy of a million at $950,000—and that doesn't count things like the $1.96 million for a unique single-button Patek chronograph or $1.5 million for a "John Player Special" Daytona. Truly remarkable results up and down the board. Which begs the question: do we think crazy prices for Cartier will hold long term, or was it just excitement for the first round of sales? 8.3%Checking in on other results, the Monaco Legend Auction sold 98.3% of their lots for a total sale of €26,471,620. Big results include €2.106 million for a unique doré-dialed Patek 3448 “Padellone,” €1.88 million for a unique platinum Daytona, and €390,000 for a Cartier Tank à Guichets that was made in 3 examples, among some other solid results. A unique woven Cartier ”Pebble” did massively well as at...
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Our next session is with Panerai, and WWG26, here is our hands-on impressions of the highlights. The booth had a large tank filled with water, called the Vasca Panerai, and was used by the Italian Navy for testing the watches. This year, they explored three themes, viz Historic, Innovative materials and power reserve. Back to [...] The post Live from WWG26: Panerai new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
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