Time+Tide
Why Rolex is the brand that won 2023
It may seem the most boring choice, but Zach makes a case for why Rolex made the most of 2023.The post Why Rolex is the brand that won 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
It may seem the most boring choice, but Zach makes a case for why Rolex made the most of 2023.The post Why Rolex is the brand that won 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
It’s the FINAL COUNTDOWN! You’ve waited till the absolute last moment to grab that gift you’ve always wanted for yourself or for that person in your life who finally dropped a hint you can act on. Whatever the case, you now find yourself scrambling through our Gift Guides and Sales and Promotions page for the perfect gift. Well, I’m here to let you know that we still have a ton of great items in stock. And the icing on the cake? Today, until 1:00pm EST, we’re offering free overnight shipping in the USA on orders over $500. It’s the FINAL COUNTDOWN! You’ve waited till the absolute last moment to grab that gift you’ve always wanted for yourself or for that person in your life who finally dropped a hint you can act on. Whatever the case, you now find yourself scrambling through our Gift Guides and Sales and Promotions page for the perfect gift. Well, I’m here to let you know that we still have a ton of great items in stock. And the icing on the cake? Today, until 1:00pm EST, we’re offering free overnight shipping in the USA on orders over $500. The post 2023 Holiday Sale: Gifts to Grab in the Final Hours appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Corum’s launch of the Bubble watch in 2000 took the watch world by surprise. Well before the onslaught of XXL watches, the Bubble exploded on the scene with a massive 44mm case and, even more startling, a towering domed sapphire crystal magnifying and producing crazy distortions on the dial. Inspired by an experimental deep-sea dive […]
Monochrome
It’s pretty surprising when you think that the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant’s take on the luxury sports watch, has been around for fewer than three years. Thanks to its well-designed and finished case, its integrated and interchangeable bracelet, its clean dial, its well-represented range of complications, its affordable price tag, and the fact that it […]
Deployant
"You've got a case that could light up this whole town" she sang... Here's our review of the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum after a week on the wrist.
SJX Watches
I am pleased to end the year with new additions to the team – Brandon Moore and David Ichim. Both occasional contributors before, Brandon and David will now become regular, exclusive contributors. Brandon’s writings explore the diversity of watchmaking and watch collecting. Amongst his recent stories are a visit to F.P. Journe’s manufacture, as well as its dial- and case-making facility. Brandon also recounted his experience learning traditional engine turning at a guilloche workshop by Nico Cox. And scheduled for January 2024: his story covering a visit to Akrivia’s workshops in Geneva. David’s contributions are more technically oriented, with the most recent being a detailed analysis of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum that explains why it might be the ultimate F.P. Journe chronomètre. A freshly-eroded remontoir spring at the F.P. Journe manufacture At the same time, Russell Sheldrake will be departing in early February 2024 – we wish him well. Finally, Oliver R. Müller of LuxeConsult is no longer a contributor to SJX Watches. He contributed a handful of articles from 2020 to 2023; these articles are no longer available on the site. Mr Müller is no longer associated with us in any form. Any queries can be directed to us via the contact form.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Girard Perregaux Chronograph Starting this week off strong with an unusual vintage Girard Perregaux chronograph complete with boxes and papers. The large square steel case has some honest wear, but is unpolished and exhibits the original brushed finish. The elapsed time bezel has a few marks but is otherwise in good shape. The blue dial with three white subdials is a beauty and in great condition. The hour and minute hands are bright red and the chrono seconds hand is white, giving the watch a bold and colorful look. The watch is powered by the workhorse Valjoux 7736 manual wind movement, the same movement found in vintage Heuer chronographs among other brands. To top it all off, the watch comes complete with the original inner and outer boxes, and the guarantee and instruction booklets. View auction here Vintage Zodiac Seawolf Automatic Here’s a beauty that you do not find often in this condition. This vintage Zodiac Sea Wolf is a real stunner. This no-date model with the metal bezel is one of the fist generations of Sea Wolf and honestly are usually found in very worn condition. This example is super clean, with an unpolished steel case and the bezel has almost zero ...
Quill & Pad
The Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon launched in platinum for the 2001 model year, the 12-complication featured two dials. Dial one was devoted to a moonphase indicator and a perpetual calendar with retrograde date display. On the sub-dial display for months, simple text promised a tourbillon regulator within the case.
Worn & Wound
Over the weekend, Rado dipped into their archives to bring back a lost classic from the 1980s. If you can recall the early 80s (or just have a penchant for watches of this era) you might remember the Anatom. This square cased watch with a dramatically curved case and sapphire crystal has been ripe for repurposing for the last few years – it certainly has some integrated bracelet sports watch notes to it. What Rado has done with this release is take the premise of the watch from the 80s and modernize it using Rado’s contemporary design language. The result is an Anatom that doesn’t look much like the original, but clearly shares some DNA and is unmistakably a Rado. The most significant difference between the original Anatom and the new version is the more prominent use of ceramic in the present day model. Rado has always been keen to experiment with materials, especially ceramic, but they’ve really leaned into this as part of their brand identity quite heavily in the last few years. Most of the key models in their lineup are either full ceramic, or ceramic in all the important places. That’s where the Anatom fits in. The new version has a PVD coated steel midcase, but the ceramic bezel leaves a large visual impression, and we also get a ceramic crown and a ceramic overlay on the integrated rubber strap’s clasp. The case measures 32.5mm x 46.3mm and is 11.3mm tall. As with the vintage versions of this watch, the case is curved, which in turn means the dial and ...
Worn & Wound
When it comes to setting the standard for British elegance, does anyone do it better than Farer? The London-based watchmaker, whose timepieces are produced in Switzerland, recently launched their latest in the Cushion Case collection: The Durham Pullman. Evoking a bygone era, this latest from Farer takes inspiration from the Pullman Company, manufacturer of train cars throughout the United Kingdom. With this, the mixture of greens and silver balances a bit of sophistication with everyday wear. The dial is the real selling point of this watch, so we’ll talk about that first. The dial boasts a luxurious dark green hue with a metallic brushed finish, lending it a dynamic tone under varying lights. Atop this base, a raised ring with a radial brushed finish creates the distinctive sector dial effect of the Cushion Case collection. Resting on this ring are highly polished silver markers- a blend of batons and Roman numerals-accompanied by a refined dauphine handset. Complementing these silver elements is the seconds sub-dial, featuring a sunken silver channel with an engine-turned finish. These meticulous details converge to establish the seasonal release of the Durham Pullman as an exceptionally refined timepiece suitable for both formal occasions and weekend outings alike. As part of the Cushion Collection, the Durham Pullman is bound to have presence when worn due to its shape and easy-to-style size that complements a variety of wearers. Sitting at 38.5 mm with a 43.8mm...
SJX Watches
In keeping with its tradition of special editions for the Chinese Lunar New Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon” to celebrate the Year of the Wood Dragon that begins in early 2024. A limited edition that’s made-to-order, the Reverso “Dragon” maintains the timeless, double-sided design, but with a black grand feu enamel dial and a hand-engraved case back portraying a Chinese dragon. Initial thoughts Commemorative Lunar New Year editions are not new for Jaeger-LeCoultre, as the brand produced an equivalent edition last year. However, the formal works: combining enamel and engraving results in a more elaborate design compared to the typical Reverso while still retaining the elegance and character of the model. The watch showcases a captivating motif on its back. On closer inspection, intricate details come to the fore, with the dragon depicted in low relief against a fired enamel background. Although almost monochromatic, it is undeniably vivid. Just like last year’s Tiger edition, the Reverso “Dragon” is made-to-order and is priced at US$107,000 before taxes. It comes in slightly higher than the previous Reverso models featuring similar artwork. It is expensive for what it is, despite the evident artistry of the decoration, particularly since Jaeger-LeCoultre is historically a brand associated with more affordable watches. A lavish depiction of a Chinese dragon The Reverso “Dragon” depicts a dragon in the clouds against a ...
Monochrome
The 1950s and 1960s have been a groundbreaking era for watches when it comes to water resistance. Although the concept of a watertight case wasn’t new at that point, technological and material advancements allowed for great strides to be made in creating waterproof watches. Names such as Submariner, Fifty Fathoms, SUB 300, Seamaster and many […]
Quill & Pad
Many of the trends that we have experienced happening slowly over the last few years have continued. These include more dial colors, case materials, and a shift to smaller case sizes. However, it feels we have also hit a turning point where some changes are coming about.
Monochrome
The Alpiner Extreme collection is Alpina’s take on the hyper-popular category of sports watches with integrated bracelets. Relaunched in 2022 with a robust cushion-shaped case and a textured dial, the first model took many by surprise with its regulator dial, a throwback to a popular and massive 48mm Alpina model known as the Avalanche Regulator […]
Monochrome
Greubel Forsey consistently defies convention, ensuring that each of the brand’s timepieces is nothing short of intriguing. In 2019, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey ventured into the sports watch category with the GMT Sport – a distinctive creation that integrated a world-time indication with an inclined tourbillon, but mostly an entirely new convex case design. […]
SJX Watches
Citizen launched its flagship mechanical watch, the Caliber 0200, two years ago. Despite being better known for high-end quartz watches – including the most accurate ever – the Japanese watchmaker managed an impressively executed three-handed sports watch, with an equally outstanding new movement. Now the model finally receives a mechanical upgrade with the Caliber 0210, which incorporates a date along with subtle improvements to the external design, while retaining the excellent case and bracelet that define the model. Initial thoughts The Caliber 0210 indicates the brand’s interest in further developing this excellent model – encouraging for fans of the model like myself. Despite the Caliber 0210 looking much like its predecessor, it is actually a substantially different watch in tangible terms. Ordinarily the addition of a date would be a no-no for a purist enthusiast, but here the date is integrated well in terms of dial proportions and (re)design. The appealing attributes of the Caliber 0200, and now the Caliber 0210, clearly mark the two out as watches conceived for a niche audience, namely enthusiasts who appreciate quality – and are able to distinguish this from the competition (Grand Seiko to state the obvious). However, this target audience often prefers the purity of a three-hand watch without a date. At the same time, this audience comprehends the substantive upgrades in the Caliber 0210 beyond the date – amongst them the improved case constructi...
Worn & Wound
As watch collectors and enthusiasts know, the devil is in the details – whether it’s a pop of color, a date window, or a line of text, we know that subtle differences can make significant impacts. Sometimes these details don’t necessarily make or break a watch; rather they bring out different characteristics or evoke certain emotions. In the case of the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan LE and the regular production Manhattan, we get two (maybe even three) different vibes altogether. As watch collectors and enthusiasts know, the devil is in the details – whether it’s a pop of color, a date window, or a line of text, we know that subtle differences can make significant impacts. Sometimes these details don’t necessarily make or break a watch; rather they bring out different characteristics or evoke certain emotions. In the case of the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan LE and the regular production Manhattan, we get two (maybe even three) different vibes altogether. The post A Tale of Two MAEN Manhattans appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Mostly made up of no-frills, vintage-inspired chronographs, Breitling’s Top Time collection now gets one of the brand’s most complicated offerings. The Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon is inspired by the livery of 1960s American sports cars like the Ford Mustang, while its mechanics are courtesy of movement specialist La Joux-Perret, which constructed the B21 movement that combines a tourbillon and chronograph with column wheel. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest launch goes far beyond the brand’s typical price range, but it is a chronograph with tourbillon, making it relative affordable given the complications. In fact, the combination of a chronograph with tourbillon is an uncommon pairing regardless of price. The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette The watch retains the usual retro-inspired Top Time styling, which is attractive. The symmetry of the dial adds to its appeal, as do details like the mirrored register and tourbillon aperture, both shaped like a squircle. While the green and blue dials have a conventional metal finish, the dial on the Chevrolet Corvette edition is burl wood veneer, a reference to the wood steering wheel and dash of the 1960s Corvette. The wood dial and black ceramic case are an unusual combination, but make the Corvette version the most interesting of the trio. The downside of the watch is its size. The case is either 43 mm or 44 mm (depending on the material), which is acceptable, but 15.4 mm thick – that’...
Deployant
The most striking feature of the Manufaktur Edition is the flying tourbillon with a twist. The lower section of the dial opens up, offering a unique perspective. Peer through the dial, past the tourbillon cage, and capture a lateral glimpse into the heart of the tourbillon. The rehaut functions as a mirror, enabling enthusiasts to scrutinize the intricate mechanics and finesse of the tourbillon.
Monochrome
Gerald Charles has pulled off something quite extraordinary in the watch world: all its collections revolve exclusively around one case design. And what a case design that is! Created by legendary designer Gérald Genta in 2006, the flamboyant Maestro case design is the backbone of Gerald Charles. Ranging from time-and-date models to skeletonised versions and […]
Worn & Wound
In 2019 Roue introduced their TPS line chronographs, which are inspired by the Porsche 910 that won the Nürburgring 1000-kilometer race in 1967. These watches feature both Tachymeter and Pulsometer scales surrounding the dial. Just in case you need to check your pulse, while at the same time measuring your speed. For 2023, Roue has come up with two more versions of their popular TPS line. Following in the footsteps of the previous five, we have the aptly named Six (with white dial), as well as the Seven (with a graphite/grey dial). Both feature tone on tone subdials with multi-color accents for a look that is inherently cohesive but still visually interesting. You would think two timing scales would make for a cluttered dial. In this case, you would be wrong. The tachymeter scale begins where the pulsometer ends, neither overlapping the other. It is remarkably clean and easy to read. This clarity is further enhanced by the lack of any text on the dial, apart from the brand name. Powering these chronographs is the Seiko caliber SII VK63, which is a Mecha-Quartz movement. For those that need a refresher, these movements blend quartz timing precision and mechanical chronograph technology. This allows for the tactile pleasure of that satisfying snap when activating the chronograph, along with the second-hand sweep we enthusiasts so enjoy. Aside from these 2 great characteristics, the biggest benefit of using this movement is its size and low cost. All TPS watches featur...
Teddy Baldassarre
In a world where the vast majority of wristwatches have round cases (about 80 percent, according to industry estimates), wearing a watch with a rectangular case is a great way to stand out from the crowd and perhaps to fly a flag of appreciation for the vintage designs of a bygone era - specifically the early 20th Century, the prime of the Art Deco movement. Best of all, just like their more ubiquitous round-cased counterparts, rectangular watches come in a wide variety of styles and price points, so there are options both for intrigued newbies as well as seasoned collectors looking to add a non-round timepiece to their personal rotation. Here are 12 rectangle watches worth your attention (and yes, we've left out iconic pieces like the TAG Heuer Monaco and Bell & Ross BR-01, which are squares rather than rectangles; perhaps we'll do a roundup of square watches one of these days soon). Bulova Frank Sinatra My Way Price: $575, Case Size: 29.5mm, Case Height: 9.05mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Lug to Lug: 47mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Quartz Miyota IL45 Bulova’s Frank Sinatra collection pays homage to the eponymous pop music legend, who owned many Bulova watches throughout his life and counted Bulova as a sponsor of his Frank Sinatra Show on TV in the 1950s. The watches’ designs are inspired by Sinatra’s 1950s-1960s heyday, when smaller, thinner watches were in vogue. The Art Deco-influenced “My Way” model in gold-toned steel features a w...
Deployant
The Longines Legend Diver is a modernized version of the super compressor dive watches that Longines produced from the late 1950s through the early '70s. The watch has been a flagship offering for the brand for the past decade and a half. The latest iteration now comes in a 39mm case, with a new beads of rice bracelet.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s note: In this week’s 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, Griffin Bartsch (@cgriffinbartsch on Instagram), a seasoned collector and watch enthusiast, makes his case for value with a trio of watches that punch well above their weight class. In a watch environment where prices keep climbing, it can be tough to find quality and originality that’s budget friendly, and it can be even tougher if you can easily recall a time when these things just weren’t so expensive. But as Griffin points out, there are still great watches to discover at any price point. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Talk to anyone who has been a watch enthusiast or collector long enough and a constant through-line will be that watches cost more than they used to. It’s hard to deny. In the near decade and a half that I have nominally been what could be called a watch collector, the market has experienced a dramatic surge. It’s gotten to the point where it is unavoidable that rising prices have become a pretty standard stop in the flow of conversation at meetups and on forums. Even I am not immune to the temptations of the topic - I have probably mentioned a few too many times that when I was 18 I could have bought a polar dial Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570 for the same money as my Martin D-35 (around 3500 bucks). That Martin still floats right around that price today, the Rolex decidedly does not. A result of a...
SJX Watches
Having expanded its range of chronographs with a homage to stopwatches and, more recently, new models inspired by the Kinetic Chronograph, Seiko now introduces a pair of vintage-inspired chronographs. The Prospex Speedtimer (SRQ047 and SRQ049) features a distinctively retro style reminiscent of the 1970s and sports a “panda” style dial but with a more compact case than its predecessor. The “panda” SRQ047 is regular production while the “reverse panda” SRQ049 is a limited edition to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the first Seiko wristwatch. Initial thoughts Since its introduction in 2021, the Speedtimer had quite a significant design flaw – its bulky case, measuring over 15 mm high. Therefore, it’s highly gratifying to learn that the brand has opted to refresh the Speedtimer with a more traditional dial and a slimmer case size. Concerning its design, the new models evoke a sense of familiarity by featuring a more rounded case in contrast to the previous Speedtimer models. Furthermore, the brand has introduced a dash of colour to the “panda” style dial by adding an orange tip to the chronograph hands. The limited edition reverse panda model. However, it’s worth noting that the watch has a date window located between four and five. This feature seems somewhat out of place and could have been omitted for a more streamlined look. The standard production Speedtimer is priced at US$2,500, with an additional US$200 for the limited edition. The new mod...
Worn & Wound
Fresh off the heels of Circula’s latest release, the DiveSport 500m diver, the German maker is at it again and just in time for the holiday season, introducing two new colorways to each of their existing ProTrail and AquaSport II lines. In case you are not familiar with the Protrail, it is Circula’s take on a modern field watch, boasting significant anti-magnetic properties (up to 80,000 A/m), a 1,200 Vickers scratch resistant stainless steel case, and an Elaboré Grade Sellita SW200. This robust go anywhere, do anything watch has a diameter of 40mm, lug to lug length of 46mm and 12mm thin, which is well within “Goldilocks” parameters. All this and 150n water-resistance to boot. The two new colors for the Protrail are green and grey. All are available on a sailcloth strap or matching stainless-steel bracelet. Pricing starts at around $800 for this model. Also seeing a refresh is the AquaSport II, Circula’s version of a modern skin-diver. Equally capable in the boardroom, as on the dive boat, this formidable 200m dive watch boasts many sophisticated details. Sporting an attractive hand-brushed stainless steel case, a 120-click sapphire bezel and the same Elaboré Grade Sellita SW200. Similar to the Protrail, this one is 40mm in diameter, 46mm from lug to lug and an impressive 12.6mm thick. “Goldilocks” parameters checked off once again. A new brown/gilt dial joins the AquaSport II collection, alongside recently introduced anthracite and red colorways. ...
Time+Tide
Rather than give the BR-X5 a full lume dial, they've given it a full lume case.The post Bell & Ross’ BR-X5 Green Lum is their most sci-fi watch yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Recognised by its distinctive dual crowns and an internal rotating bezel, the Longines Legend Diver pays homage to history while embracing modern enhancements. Already a mainstay of Longines’ reissue sports watches, the Legend Diver has undergone a transformation and now features a redesigned and smaller 39 mm case that faithfully echoes the original (while it predecessor was 41 mm). Initial thoughts The new Legend Diver carefully retains the vintage styling of its predecessor. Traditionalists will appreciate the absence of the date that was found on the prior version. The absent dial preserves the dial’s clean and uncluttered aesthetic. But the new Legend Diver is not just a remake. Inside is the cal. 888.6, an upgraded ETA calibre that stands out with a 72-hour power reserve and magnetic resistance that exceeds the ISO 764 standard by ten times thanks to a silicon hairspring. And the dial similarly retains the design of the vintage original, but is executed in a modern manner with two colours of Super-Luminova, green and blue. This not only adds a touch of excellence to the design but also enhances readability in low-light conditions. On its face, the downsizing to 39 mm may not align with the conventions of a tool watch, especially one conceived for diving. However, this shift in size caters better to daily wear and better reproduces the original’s dimensions. Unfortunately, the reduction in diameter doesn’t go hand in hand with a decrease in thickness, so the ...
Hodinkee
Heritage inspiration and a slimmed-down case.
Worn & Wound
H. Moser made waves with their Streamliner watch when it was first released in 2020 thanks to the unconventional case and integrated bracelet design. In a market flooded with integrated bracelet sport watches, the Streamliner somehow manages to stand apart with its scale-like bracelet. It’s a watch we’ve taken a closer look at here, and here. This year, the Streamliner takes a new form in a move toward a more wearable experience in the form of the Small Seconds Blue Enamel. The result is a 39mm watch with a revised case and bracelet design that remains true to the original DNA while being far more wrist-friendly in the process. The Streamliner has always been defined by its bracelet, with the cushion case transitioning to a dial with largely minimal takes on complications from perpetual calendars to chronographs. The newest addition adjusts the proportions of everything just enough to make a tangible difference on the wrist, without compromising the impact of the shapes and forms at work. In fact, the bracelet is in peak form with this release, combining the dramatic architecture with a silky taper that works incredibly well in practice. What’s more, the tweaks reduce some of the tension between the shoulder of the case and bracelet integration, making for an overall more graceful appearance. That said, if you were never a fan of the Streamliner, this new example isn’t likely to change that. This is still a Streamliner through and through, and fans of the watch l...
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