Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC Top Gun 'SFTI' Edition (Live Pics & Pricing)
This watch feels the need, the need for ... well, you get it.
Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch
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SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces the DW5 Cempasúchil
Already a well-established tradition at De Bethune, the unusual use of metal alloys along with elaborate engraving defines the Maestri’Art DW5 Cempasúchil, a unique watch created for Salón Internacional Alta Relojería México (SIAR), the country’s leading luxury-watch fair that takes place October 20-22. The Cempasúchil is a unique piece that’s the latest instalment in the Dream Watch 5 (DW5) series that started out as a sleek creation resembling a metallic seashell. More recently, the DW5 has more recently been used as a blank canvas for heavily decorative engraving, something the Cempasúchil takes that to the extreme. The titanium case of the Cempasúchil is heat blued and inlaid with gold in various colours, forming an intricate yet cartoonish motif inspired by the Mexican festival of Día de Muertos, or Day of the Dead. And that explains the model name, which is also a type of marigold also known as flor de los muertos, or “flower of the dead”. Cempasúchil front And back Initial thoughts Done by De Bethune’s go-to engraver, the quality of the work on the Cempasúchil is unmistakably high quality. And the multi-coloured gold inlay elevates the work to another level entirely. And the exuberant, whimsical of multiple calavera, or decorated skulls, is very much in keeping with the spirit of the Day of the Dead, a celebration of the departed rather than a sad occasion. But the combination of the DW5 and the motif doesn’t gel. Traditionally seamless,...
Deployant
Review: Yema Superman Steel Bronze – Return of the Superman
Yema is a brand that had caught our attention in recent times, ever since we did a review on the Rallye Andretti Limited Edition. The French-based watch manufacturer had certainly exceeded many expectations – with its wonderful designs and excellent value proposition. Yema Superman Steel Bronze When Yema told us that the brand is launchingRead More
SJX Watches
Watchmaking: How the Art of Precision Regulation Became a Science
They were once the horological elite, credited with magical powers. The precision timers who tuned the watches for the observatory trials in the 1960s and 1970s are now a dwindling band in the twilight of their lives. In those days, when mechanical precision rather than mechanical complication determined the value of a watch, precision timing was a post-graduate discipline that took a lifetime to master. Before he died last October in his 90th year, one old timer, François Mercier of Le Locle, described what he had to do to win prizes for his employers, initially Ulysse Nardin and then the hairspring spring manufacturer Spiraux Réunis. First, he had to identify the most faultless spring, calculate and shape the terminal curve, pin it up to the staff of a previously poised balance wheel. Then he would shift balance screws by hundredths of a millimetre, adjust forces and inertia in micrograms, to move a fraction of a second closer to the unattainable goal of a true and constant time. An overcoil hairspring in a contemporary Voutilainen Vingt-8 Temperature compensation The biggest challenge was to compensate for the effects of temperature changes on the steel alloy springs of old. As the temperature rose, the spring would lose its elasticity and beat more slowly. Such springs needed a compensation balance made of two metals each having a different coefficient of expansion. Rising temperatures would cause the cut ends of the balance rim to curl inwards, thereby increasing...
Time+Tide
The Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary yellow gold
Brands such as Rolex, Richard Mille and Patek Philippe have all incorporated rubber into their high-end watches, but there can only be one pioneer who got the party started. Forty years ago, Hublot founder and designer Carlo Crocco took the watch world by storm, pairing a porthole-inspired yellow gold watch with a rubber strap integrated … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Is The MVMT Arc Automatic Watch A Good Buy???
Deployant
MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO – new release: the go everywhere perpetual calendar built for living
MB&F; extends its Legacy Machine Perpetual line with the new LM Perpetual EVO - a new Machine designed for all avtivity. In spirit, the LM Perpetual EVO marks an evolution at MB&F;. This is not a watch for sports, it is a watch for life.
Revolution
Introducing Two New Takes on the Patek Philippe Twenty~4
The Patek Philippe watch that is meant for all day, every day - the Patek Philippe Twenty~4.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 108: Auction Scandals, New Releases, And The Black Bay Fifty-Eight Revisited
We've got some good, old-fashioned watch nerdery for you this week.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono
Luxury-sports watches are the flavour of the day, and brands in every price segment offer something in the category. Given the fad, Chopard’s launch of the Alpine Eagle last year wasn’t much of a surprise, although the fact that the Alpine Eagle was a reboot of the 1980s St Moritz was unexpected, since the St Moritz was never really a hit. But the St Moritz was smartly reworked, creating a watch that is good looking and in typical Chopard style, very well made and also well priced. The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono has all of the qualities of last year’s base model, but everything comes together better on the chronograph. And despite being more complicated and thus more expensive, the chronograph is arguably better value, and perhaps even the best in class. Initial thoughts When the Alpine Eagle was unveiled almost exactly a year ago, making its debut as a 41 mm three-hander with date, I was impressed by the fit and finish, and also the price; the value proposition was good. But the three-hand Alpine Eagle isn’t particularly compelling in the hand. To be fair, the base-model Alpine Eagle manages to avoid the usual pitfall for a luxury-sports watch – looking derivative and too similar to the most famous watches in the category – but it is a little plain. The new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono, on the other hand, is compelling in style, size, and substance. Visually the chronograph works better than the three-hand model, because the sub-dials are well proportioned and i...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oregonian Evades Authorities and Races Toward Fires, “It’s Okay! I’ve Got a Ball Fireman.”
“Then he just broke into leg stretches and goes, ‘How long [have] I got? Thirty minutes? Forty-five minutes?’ He went on about how the smoke was no problem for a ball fireman’s tritium tubes and I should watch out…”
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Hands On - SEIKO SKX009K2 - Most Affordable Dive Watch
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep: #194: The Best Damn Quartz Watches You Can Buy Right Now
It’s hard to beat a good quartz watch. And the industry’s recent high-luxury releases have left the guys hungry for another good quartz episode.Tune in for 2020 quartz recommendations from Kaz & Mike. Hold on to your wallets - there’s a whole bunch of them!
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Aquastar Deepstar Resurfaces
One of the most important historical dive watch brands is back, with Cousteau's favorite chronograph.
SJX Watches
Aquastar Introduces the Deepstar Chronograph
Originally founded in 1962 to capitalise on the popularity of leisure diving at the time, Aquastar specialised in making diving instruments and notched up several patents, such as a “no-decompression” bezel. But like the rest of the Swiss watch industry in the 1970s, the Aquastar suffered during the Quartz Crisis and faded away, although it never really died. Now it’s been resurrected and makes it debut with, unsurprisingly, a vintage remake with the Deepstar Chronograph. Initial thoughts The Deepstar is obviously a watch of the 1960s, with the angular, tonneau-shaped case and dial design giving away its origins. The retro-diver look is now back in vogue, which was no doubt a reason behind the revival of the brand. And the popularity of the design is for good reason. It is clean and attractive, and unusual compared to today’s dive watches (although vintage remakes are increasingly common). The vintage Deepstar All of the best elements of the vintage original are found on the remake, including the oversized, “big eye” minute register. And though it’s larger than the 37 mm original – a necessity due to the La Joux-Perret movement inside – the remake is 40.5 mm, smallish by today’s standards, which means it still retains the vintage feel. Aside from the true-to-original grey dial, the Deepstar is also offered in black and blue, with an “early-bird” price of US$2,790 (which rises to US$3,590 after the initial run of 300 pieces in each colour). The pre-...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 on Bracelet
One of TAG Heuer’s most distinctive watches because of its angular, square case, the Monaco turned 50 last year and the brand marked the occasion with a variety of limited edition watches as well as a hand-finished, one-off watch that was sold to benefit charity. At the same time, the regular-production Monaco in blue – arguably the quintessential Monaco design – received a substantial upgrade, with the ETA movement replaced with the in-house cal. Heuer 02. The Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 is now also available with a black dial, and a new, retro-inspired Monaco bracelet is also making its debut. Initial thoughts The Monaco is an intrinsically interesting watch because of its case. But TAG Heuer has produced many iterations that unfortunately look similar – despite having different movements – making it difficult to distinguish between them. The latest variant still looks similar, but manages to stand out from the crowd thanks to the bracelet, which has not been part of TAG Heuer’s offerings in a long time. The new bracelet is modelled on the 1970s original, but has been made more robust while being finished better. The result is a bracelet looks original and sporty. There have been numerous Monaco variations, but most were solidly constructed and well priced. The same appears to be true here. While the Monaco Heuer 02 has a new movement and bracelet, it retains the well finished case that’s a wearable 39 mm, along with the symmetrical, “Compax” dial layou...
Revolution
Introducing the Monaco Chronograph 39mm Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic
TAG Heuer introduces the Monaco Chronograph 39mm Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic with a brand-new bracelet designed for the watch.
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How to Set a Watch
Time+Tide
Big watches for small wrists – 10 watches that wear smaller than their case diameters Part 2
Editor’s note: As we discussed here and in Part 1 of this article, watch lug to lug is an oft misunderstood element in finding the perfect fitting watch to your wrist. Here’s why. Ressence Type 1 Slim (42mm x 46mm) While some Ressence Type references push upwards of 52mm lug to lug, if you are … ContinuedThe post Big watches for small wrists – 10 watches that wear smaller than their case diameters Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold with 240 hours power reserve is testosterone-drenched tech at its absolute finest
Editor’s note: As I go to post this review, something very sad just dawned on me. It’s been over three years since I’ve had a holiday as long as the power reserve of this watch. Which is 10 days. Ten. Days. Which means this watch would still be ticking after one wind upon my return … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold with 240 hours power reserve is testosterone-drenched tech at its absolute finest appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy 50th Anniversary: editorial commentary with full release
Omega releases the third chapter of the Snoopy Award Speedmaster with a new, non-limited edition 50th Anniversary Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award watch.
Time+Tide
An old dog has learned a new trick with the new NON-limited Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary
It goes without saying that fans of Omega Speedmaster are some of the most ardently passionate people within the watch community and, indeed, the general population. As a watchmaker, Omega understand and foster this enthusiasm, and have this year acknowledged the legions of Speedy supporters with a very special new release. To commemorate one of … ContinuedThe post An old dog has learned a new trick with the new NON-limited Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT is about as avant-garde as Switzerland gets
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept line can easily be not just confusing, but confounding when you first come across it. The case shape is so alien … who is it even made for? When the first Concept was released in 2002, it more resembled a piece of lab equipment from a sci-fi movie than a watch, … ContinuedThe post The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT is about as avant-garde as Switzerland gets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Rado's Heritage Captain Cook Mark II proves that you can wear a 37mm watch
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Speedmaster “Silver Snoopy Award” 50th Anniversary
In one fo the most widely predicted announcements of the year, Omega has just unveiled the Speedmaster “Silver Snoopy Award” 50th Anniversary. Essentially the latest-generation Speedmaster Moonwatch dressed up in Snoopy livery, the watch commemorates the Silver Snoopy award bestowed on Omega by NASA in 1970. And crucially, this is not a limited edition, unlike the two earlier Speedmaster Snoopy editions. Initial thoughts While hardly a surprise, the new Speedmaster Snoopy is an attractive variant of the Speedmaster. While the design elements are the most obvious, the coolest bit of the new watch is on the back: the running indicators linked to the dial are a nifty detail that sets this apart mechanically from all other Speedmasters. But there really are so many Speedmaster limited editions. The new Speedmaster Snoopy is not a limited edition, which is probably disappointing news to owners of the earlier editions, which were limited. That said, with a price of about US$9,000, the new Speedmaster Snoopy is modestly priced – it is intrinsically a well-priced watch offering solid value – and will no doubt sell extremely well, at least initially, until supply catches up with demand. Saving the day 50 years ago Because the crew of the disastrous Apollo 13 mission used their Speedmasters to time a 14-second engine burn to position the craft for reentry into Earth’s atmosphere – an explosion forced them to shut down the craft’s electronic systems – the Omega chrono...
Deployant
New: U-Boat unveils the 1938 Doppiotempo range – commentary and prices
U-Boat unveils the new 1938 Doppiotempo range. Presented first time last year, based on a model originally created for the Italian army's parachute-assault regiment, the Col Moschin, the watch comes out now in other two models enlarging the range started with a special edition of 200 pieces.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces the Excellence Triptych
Having pivoted to take a more interesting direction – exemplified by its recent collaboration with watch designer Alain Silberstein – Louis Erard is now working on facelifting its more classical watches to give them a more contemporary appearance. The result is the Excellence Triptych, a trio of watches that are simple yet smartly detailed. Made up of a time-only, regulator, and mono-pusher chronograph, the line up is named after a three-panelled painting, perhaps reflecting the artistic interests of Manuel Emch, the former chief executive of Jaquet Droz who is now a consultant to Louis Erard and responsible for the brand’s renewal. The Excellence Triptych (from left): Petite Second, Régulateur, Chronographe Monopoussoir Initial thoughts The Triptych is fundamentally appealing because of its reasonable and affordable pricing, starting from about US$1,600 for the time-only and rising to a still-modest US$3,800 for the mono-pusher chronograph. The intrinsic value is especially strong for the regulator, as the complication is rarely seen in this price segment (though Louis Erard has made it something of a speciality). The Régulateur And the facelift is subtle but significantly, boosting their visual appeal over the earlier generation of watches. Amongst the more obvious tweaks was replacing the Roman numerals with applied Arabics and batons, while also sharpening the lance-shaped hands, giving the watch a more modern look. While the dials are in a muted silver, ...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Minase Divido
A round watch case like few others, sharp angles, quirky Japanese design and a Swiss movement? Surely that can grab your attention, even in these weeks of big stories from Switzerland. At a time when just as many gravitate towards the well known, we have the ones that turn towards another path, a path less … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Minase Divido appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon: As Exuberant And Fun As The Hypercar It Is Inspired By (Video)
The Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon almost serves the timekeeping function as a side dish: the most eye-catching part of this watch is the sapphire crystal engine block with 16 working “pistons” and a “crankshaft.” It is absolutely mesmerizing to see these little pistons do the same work that their life-size W16 cousins do. Check out this video to see it for yourself!
Video