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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Tissot Introduces the Sideral SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Jun 15, 2023

Tissot Introduces the Sideral

Fun, affordable, and well-equipped, the Sideral is a surprisingly interesting entry-level sports watch from Tissot. Where many recent sports watches been Genta-inspired with integrated bracelets – Tissot’s own PRX among them – the Sideral reminds us that the 70s were a time of broader experimentation for the Swiss watch industry, in terms of both design and materials. Based on the playful and quirky Sideral S from 1971, the newSideral is not a one-to-one remake of the original. Instead, it’s been smartly updated in both design and functionality. While the original Sideral S featured a fiberglass case, then a world first, the reissue has a more contemporary carbon composite case. With its clever use of lume plus a regatta countdown bezel, the Sideral packs a surprising amount of character for the price. The original Sideral S from 1971 (lower left) next to the new Sideral. Initial thoughts Heritage remakes have become a common trope in the luxury watch industry over the past few years, but brands have mostly focused on bringing back their most timeless and iconic designs from the 1950s and 1960s; the Tudor Black Bay 54 is a perfect example. In this context, the launch of the funky Sideral is a breath of fresh air, since the original design is comparatively obscure and likely unknown to many contemporary enthusiasts.  The dial itself is generously and playfully lumed, with four different colours of Super-LumiNova across the collection to bring it to life in the dark...

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph

Drawing inspiration from the Kinetic Chronograph of 1999, Seiko’s latest is the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph. It is equipped with a new solar movement that has the ability to measure elapsed time with a resolution of up to 1/100th of a second, though its defining attribute is the design: the chronograph and time displays are separated into individual sub-dials. The SFJ007 made for the 2023 World Athletics Championships Initial thoughts Seiko’s sports chronographs, particularly those equipped with quartz or solar-powered movements, receive less recognition than their higher-end counterparts. However, some of the brand’s recent endeavours in this segment are interesting, and this is one of them. The primary point of interest in the new model lies in its unique aesthetic with a separated sub-dial design that fans of the brand recognise from the Kinetic Chronograph. The new Speedtimer reimagines the design with a smart and highly-functional movement and price tag of well under US$1,000, making it a compelling option for someone seeking an affordable sports chronograph. The Kinetic Chronograph from 1999. Image – Seiko Up to 1/100th of a second Having done away with the original closed dial of the Kinetic Chronograph, the Speedtimer features four registers beneath a curved sapphire crystal. Positioned at six is an oversized sub-dial displaying the time, while a 1/10th of a second chronograph sits at ten. The running seconds can be observed at 12, and a ...

Iconic Watches: The Ultimate List Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 8, 2023

Iconic Watches: The Ultimate List

The definition of an iconic watch is, of course, highly subjective, and a consensus on what makes a watch iconic is just about impossible to achieve. However, most of us likely agree on several key points. An iconic watch should be timeless in its appeal, influential in its design, and impactful in its market presence. Ideally, an iconic watch should also be one that has remained true to its original conception throughout the years and recognizable by even the most casual of watch enthusiasts. Often, a watch becomes iconic when it becomes associated with a celebrity or other historical figure, and some achieve iconic status simply by being the trailblazer for a certain complication or now-ubiquitous function or element. Our team took all of these factors into account while tackling the bold and frankly somewhat intimidating task of listing the world's most iconic watches. As you'll note upon reading the list, each watch we chose is defended with its Case for Icon Status based on the above criteria. Scroll down to read the list, which includes one iconic movement (you can probably guess which one) and four timepieces that might be a bit too new on the scene for definitive inclusion but which we can confidently call the Icons of Tomorrow. Of course, any listing such as this is guaranteed to generate opinions, which we encourage you to share in the comments section at the bottom. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 History: Even though the Lange 1 has only been on the scene since 1994,...

The 5 most outrageous Father’s Day gifts for watch loving fathers Time+Tide
Jun 8, 2023

The 5 most outrageous Father’s Day gifts for watch loving fathers

So Father’s Day is nearly here, and your dad is a rather diehard watch collector. Now that we’ve sorted out your superhero origin story (the watch nerd doesn’t fall far from the tree), it’s time to find the perfect gift. But, as his collection is pretty comprehensive, the man can be hard to buy for. … ContinuedThe post The 5 most outrageous Father’s Day gifts for watch loving fathers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Horage Lensman 2 doubles down on the vintage camera inspiration Time+Tide
Jun 7, 2023

The Horage Lensman 2 doubles down on the vintage camera inspiration

Despite the obvious links to a passion for photography, it seems as though the chief mission for Horage is to redefine the meaning of ‘tool watch’. With cameras taking the bulk of the design inspiration, the photography links are merely an outlet for that proof of concept. Creating a beautiful, high-end watch can still be … ContinuedThe post The Horage Lensman 2 doubles down on the vintage camera inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ralph Lauren’s Stirrup Gets a Refresh with New Straps, and Some Additional Thoughts on the 4th Watch Worn & Wound
Jun 6, 2023

Ralph Lauren’s Stirrup Gets a Refresh with New Straps, and Some Additional Thoughts on the 4th Watch

Last week, Blake wrote an editorial examining the idea of the so-called “4th watch,” and I’ve been thinking about it ever since. I can feel myself heading into what I have a feeling will come to be known as the Summer of the Fourth Watch. I find that when I’m picking out a watch for the day, the normal stuff doesn’t catch my eye. I’m drawn to bright colors, unusual shapes, and left of the middle executions more than I normally am, and my “normal” is kind of weird to begin with. For whatever reason, though, I’m in a season of experimentation and, frankly, boredom with the obvious choices. It’s possible that come fall, I could have a box full of 4th watches.  So it’s with this frame of mind that I’m approaching the latest announcement from Ralph Lauren, a refresh of their Stirrup watch collection featuring a selection of colorful interchangeable leather straps. Am I going to buy a Stirrup watch? Probably not. Almost certainly not. I can’t imagine it. But I can see the appeal of these as a potential 4th watch.  The truth is, I’ve always been a fan of Ralph Lauren watches. They tend to have clean, classic designs, and the watches themselves are very well made. Many belong in another watch category we like to talk about here, the Sleeper. There are truly high end and beautifully finished Ralph Lauren watches that are hiding under the cover of the dreaded “fashion watch” designation, but these aren’t mass produced, hastily licensed junk. They ...

Hands On With The Gruppo Gamma Venturo Field Watch II – A Good Looking Value Proposition WatchAdvice
Jun 5, 2023

Hands On With The Gruppo Gamma Venturo Field Watch II – A Good Looking Value Proposition

If a vintage styled field watch is your thing, then maybe the Gruppo Gamma Venturo Field Watch II maybe just the thing for you. Oh, and we’re giving it away! What We Love Vintage stylingEasy to wearChangeable straps What We Don’t Not a high grade movementLack of design elements on strapNot suitable for smaller wrists Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 8/10 This is a review with a difference. Whilst we get a lot of watches to review each month, this time we’ve decided to review one we’re giving away to our amazing audience. How do you win? simply take our short 4 minute survey to help us design and write content to help you, our readers. which you can take it here. Don’t forget to come back and read the review when you’re done! The Gruppo Gamma Ventura Field Watch II Gruppo Gamma is probably a brand you’ve not heard of, and not surprisingly as they’re a micro brand founded in 2013, named after the Italian frogmen unit of the same code name, that was first put to action in 1940 and was the first modern naval diver unit. The top secret elite force was called “Gruppo Gamma” which was said to have originated from the Pirelli rubber skinsuit, called “muta gamma”, that was used by the divers. And they make some very reasonably priced tool watches with inspiration from vintage style field and dive watches. The Design If you think this looks familiar in style, then you’re not wrong. The Venturo is h...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Breslin revives the linen dial for the here and now Time+Tide
Jun 5, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Breslin revives the linen dial for the here and now

There’s certainly no shortage of creativity in the world of microbrands, but that energy doesn’t always get funnelled into watches that actually look good. Stella, the New York-based brand and brainchild of co-owners Stephen and Marcella (see where they got the name from), are one of the few who have managed to establish a beautiful … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Breslin revives the linen dial for the here and now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics) Time+Tide
Tissot revives Jun 1, 2023

Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics)

The 1970s were a spawning ground for all things weird and wonderful in design, leaving behind the classical, restrained designs of the mid-century aesthetic. Bullhead chronographs, TV cases and the idea of steel as a luxury material emerged in the watch world, along with some truly unique trailblazers getting lost amid the flurry of change. … ContinuedThe post Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon Flash brings a sporty attitude to a complex movement Time+Tide
Franck Muller May 26, 2023

The Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon Flash brings a sporty attitude to a complex movement

It can sometimes be difficult to know what to make of Franck Muller. Whether it’s because of the brand’s relative youth or general whimsical approach to design, it seems that a lot of collectors don’t take them particularly seriously. However, Franck Muller is built on a bedrock of technical excellence and that has earned them … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon Flash brings a sporty attitude to a complex movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sound The Alarm: Vulcain Links Up with Revolution & The Rake on Limited Edition ‘Style Moderne’ Cricket Worn & Wound
Vulcain Links Up May 25, 2023

Sound The Alarm: Vulcain Links Up with Revolution & The Rake on Limited Edition ‘Style Moderne’ Cricket

The latest iteration of Vulcain’s beloved alarm watch, aptly named the Cricket, is a collaborative limited edition piece with Revolution & The Rake. Tapping into Revolution’s enthusiasm for finely crafted timepieces and The Rake’s sartorial know-how, the Cricket gets a handsome new sector dial that harkens back to the design made popular in the 1930’s. Still keeping the foundational elements of the Cricket, the limited edition ‘Style Moderne’ is a representation of an era where design evolved from Art Deco’s flash and flare, to practical and functional, without sacrificing its appealing facade. To dive a little deeper into architectural history and terminology, Style Moderne or also known as Art Moderne emphasized movement and sleekness. It was a departure from the embellished zig zags and chevrons found in the previous decade, and a transition to more streamlined designs while maintaining some of its geometric and bold color elements. The Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ embodies that evolution with its sectioned two-tone Bellini and anthracite dial. Each layer of the dial has its own geometrical feature; the inner dial is split into four quadrants, the following Bellini layer is split into eight separate sections by several anthracite channels that flow into the outer portion of the dial. We’ve seen multiple hour marker displays within the Cricket collection, ranging from Arabic numerals, pointed markers, and a combination of both. This particular edition come...

Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Closes Out May 25, 2023

Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition

The latest from Kurono Tokyo is a new version of their Calendrier Type I, a reference that was a finalist in the 2022 GPHG awards. A triple calendar is an old school complication, so it makes sense for a brand like Kurono to experiment on this platform, with their design language so deeply rooted in Art Deco principles and mid 20th century ideas around size and style. The new Calendrier is a Kurono anniversary model, thus it will be sold as a “time limited” edition, meaning prospective owners will have specific windows during which they can make a purchase, and Kurono will fill every order placed in these windows. Kurono has also announced that this will be the final version of the Calendrier Type I, so if this is a reference you’ve been hunting, we’re approaching your last chance to snag one directly from the brand.  Kurono has dubbed this model the Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki,” a name derived from the maroon color of the dial. Azuki means “red bean” in Japanese, and in Japan is a color commonly associated with cars. Maroon was once a common standard vehicle color, so this watch is subtly auto inspired and a throwback in more ways than one.  According to the brand, achieving this particular tone of maroon was a significant challenge. To get the color right, Kurono used phosphor-bronze rather than the typical brass for the dial material, which allows them to get the proper shade of red during the finishing process. Kurono notes that phosphor-bronze is m...

The F-39 and F-41 Flieger Collection From Fortis – Now In The Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Fortis Now May 24, 2023

The F-39 and F-41 Flieger Collection From Fortis – Now In The Windup Watch Shop

A few years off of their successful revamp of the brand, Fortis has refreshed their lineup of modern pilot’s watches with colorful new dials, and we’re thrilled to offer them in the Windup Watch Shop. The traditional flieger DNA is strong within the lineup, but modern construction and design choices make these  watches an excellent option for those who want a fresh take on the pilot’s watch with the conveniences of modern construction. Meant to accommodate a wide range of wrist sizes and preferences, the Flieger is offered in both 39mm and 41mm. A few years off of their successful revamp of the brand, Fortis has refreshed their lineup of modern pilot’s watches with colorful new dials, and we’re thrilled to offer them in the Windup Watch Shop. The traditional flieger DNA is strong within the lineup, but modern construction and design choices make these  watches an excellent option for those who want a fresh take on the pilot’s watch with the conveniences of modern construction. Meant to accommodate a wide range of wrist sizes and preferences, the Flieger is offered in both 39mm and 41mm. The post The F-39 and F-41 Flieger Collection From Fortis – Now In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

“Just created, 50 years ago” – Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet recalls the Riviera story Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier May 21, 2023

“Just created, 50 years ago” – Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet recalls the Riviera story

One of the original champions of the geometrical, integrated-bracelet watch design is Baume & Mercier, first entering that market with the 1973 Riviera. Its dodecagonal bezel and minimal dial layout were designed by Jean-Claude Gueit, preceding many integrated-bracelet icons by some years. David Chaumet has been steering the Baume & Mercier ship since 2019, and … ContinuedThe post “Just created, 50 years ago” – Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet recalls the Riviera story appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The LIV GX-AC Signature Orange is plenty bold Time+Tide
May 18, 2023

The LIV GX-AC Signature Orange is plenty bold

If you slavishly follow modern trends, you might believe that current standards dictate that a watch should be between 38-42mm wide, offer some form of vintage design cue and try and remain as symmetrical as possible. Refreshingly, LIV do something far bolder. Founded in 2014 by husband and wife Chaz and Esti Chazanow, the microbrand … ContinuedThe post The LIV GX-AC Signature Orange is plenty bold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ollech & Wajs Introduces the 8001, an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Based on a 1970s Chronograph Worn & Wound
May 17, 2023

Ollech & Wajs Introduces the 8001, an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Based on a 1970s Chronograph

Since Ollech & Wajs reconstituted itself in 2019, they’ve released a string of well regarded sports watches that pay tribute to some of the brand’s key designs from the 1960s and 1970s. This period, obviously, is fertile ground for watch design inspiration, with plenty of unusual, colorful attempts to build something different, along with your normal array of no fuss, black dialed divers. Ollech & Wajs has really focused on the hits, and on a somewhat insane commitment to build quality (my favorite example: the C-1000, one of the most under the radar 1,000 meter divers you’ll find anywhere). For this latest release, however, they’re looking toward an old design that is heavy with 70s funk, and then…un-funking it? At a glance, the new OW 8001 is the product of at least a few strange decisions.  Let’s step back a moment and take a look at the watch that inspired the OW 8001, the OW 8000. This year marks the 50th anniversary of Ollech & Wajs’ early foray into the integrated bracelet market in the form of a sporty, “TV dial” chronograph with a smoked brown dial. The case of the 8000 appears to be overbuilt and chunky in a way that Ollech & Wajs has always favored, but there’s a certain elegance to the case shape and the way the case connects to the bracelet (notice the facet angled downward at the top and bottom of the case). Ollech & Wajs were far from the only brand to make a TV dial style watch, and they certainly weren’t the only brand to experiment ...

Up Close with Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ for Revolution & The Rake Revolution
Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ May 17, 2023

Up Close with Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ for Revolution & The Rake

We are excited to unveil our latest collaboration - the Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ for Revolution & The Rake. Inspired by the golden age of Art Deco design, our limited edition Vulcain Cricket features a very special two-tone Bellini and anthracite-colored dial, and a sector track like those made popular by brands such as Patek […]

Seiko Debuts the Next Generation Astron GPS Solar with New Titanium Silhouette & Dial Textures Worn & Wound
Seiko Debuts May 16, 2023

Seiko Debuts the Next Generation Astron GPS Solar with New Titanium Silhouette & Dial Textures

Last year, Seiko celebrated their 10 year anniversary of the Astron GPS Solar collection by totally revamping its dial design with a dual time subdial configuration and constructing the case and integrated bracelet system out of titanium. The idea behind the refresh was to pave the way for a new generation of Astrons with a more fluid approach to how the watch is designed while still maintaining its signature features. To kick off this brand new decade of Astron GPS Solars, Seiko looks to continue its contemporary trend by debuting a series of watches sporting an off-center subdial design and angular case while keeping its bedrock solar GPS movement at its core. The cornerstone features of the Seiko Astron GPS Solar are its 3X and 5X series movements that are capable of automatically adjusting the time based on your current GPS coordinates. The new Seiko Astron GPS Solar in particular, houses their Caliber 3X62, equipped with 6 months of power reserve on a full charge, an accuracy rating of +/- 15 seconds per month and a host of other timing applications. As long as the dial is exposed to the sun, the Caliber 3X62 automatically connects to a GPS satellite twice a day to provide accurate time based on your current location. If for any reason the has not seen the light of day, a built-in smart application allows the Astron GPS Solar to remember the time of the last manual connection and attempts a following GPS connection. In ‘Power Save’ mode, which is enabled when the ...

Introducing the Earthform Collection, a Limited Edition Series by Unimatic and Huckberry Inspired by Colors Found in the Natural World Worn & Wound
Timex May 11, 2023

Introducing the Earthform Collection, a Limited Edition Series by Unimatic and Huckberry Inspired by Colors Found in the Natural World

Our friends over at Huckberry are on a bit of a roll. They just teamed up with Timex for an Ironman Flix reissue that gave watch collectors of a certain age a hefty dose of nostalgia when they were least expecting it. And now we get word that they’re working with Unimatic, the Italian watch brand and design house, on a trio of colorful tool watches inspired by, as Unimatic puts it, colors and textures from the natural world. That feels right in line with the Huckberry ethos. They’re a retailer that is clearly bent towards outdoor adventure and a general fascination with cool gear, and the new Earthform Collection seen here slots nicely into their larger catalog.  What we have here are three iterations of the Unimatic Modello Quattro, which is on the toolier end of Unimatic’s larger collection of tool watches. It’s essentially a Modello Uno (the brand’s dive watch) but with a fixed bezel, sans markings. So we get a highly legible diver-style dial with big plots of lume at the hour markers and a case that’s designed to meet a 300 meter water resistance rating, but without the extra moving piece of a bezel insert. It’s really a distillation of the Unimatic aesthetic, which itself is a distillation of classic sports watch design cues, filtered through a minimalist, Italian sensibility.  First up is the Sandstone Modello Quattro, which has an orange dial with a fumé-like effect, but instead of fading to a darker tone at the dial’s perimeter, it appears darkes...

Seiko Introduces the Astron GPS Solar, Redesigned and Sleeker SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces May 10, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Astron GPS Solar, Redesigned and Sleeker

Seiko debuted its first solar-powered GPS watch just over a decade ago and has since improved and iterated the model, ranging from an extravagant, 18k pink gold limited edition to the asymmetric Giugiaro Design. But most of the Astron GPS watches to date have resembled gadgets, with cases featuring lots of buttons and dials with numerous indicators. Now Seiko has cleaned up the dial design and streamlined the case to create the Astron GPS Solar, which sports an octagonal titanium case and matching integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts Able to automatically set the time and time zone by syncing to GPS satellites, the Astron has always been an impressive piece of tech. But it has long looked like a piece of tech with its bulk case and fiddly interface. The limited edition SJJ017 The new Astron, however, looks like a wristwatch. With an integrated-bracelet and grid-like patterned dial, the new Astron ticks all the boxes in terms of the current fashionable in watch design. Granted, the design isn’t exactly original, but the sleek style and compact size mean the new Astron is more compelling offering than its predecessors.  And the new models cost only slightly more than prior versions, making them a no-brainer for anyone who appreciates the tech but wants a more sophisticated design. A familiar construction  The redesigned Astron is made up of elements that appear to be drawn from popular luxury-sports watches, most notably the octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. Even...

HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication Time+Tide
Speake-Marin May 10, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication

These days, for a manufacture not to have an integrated watch design is a bit like not having a smartphone. Sure, there may be a bit of respect for these flip-phone manufactures resisting the trend and times. But, ultimately, in the midst of the craze, having a solid integrated sports watch within a manufacture portfolio … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.