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Introducing – The Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar, with Green Enamel Dial for 2024 Monochrome
Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar Jan 15, 2024

Introducing – The Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar, with Green Enamel Dial for 2024

In 2012, Blancpain introduced the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar, an extremely complex watch fusing the Chinese and Gregorian calendars, complete with a moon phase complication that coincided with the Year of the Dragon. Twelve years have passed, and the dragon is back in the limelight again. To mark this twelve-year cycle, Blancpain’s latest interpretation of […]

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 Twenty twenty-one Jan 15, 2024

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001

Twenty twenty-one was an important year for Grand Seiko as it saw the introduction of the brand’s latest-generation mechanical movement, the cal. 9SA5. A modern movement with attractive aesthetic and proprietary escapement, the cal. 9SA5 debuted in the Heritage “White Birch” SLGH005. But Grand Seiko didn’t stop there. Building upon the flagship calibre, Grand Seiko created the cal. 9SC5 and launched the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. A large, sporty watch but entirely in lightweight titanium, the Tentagraph is a milestone for Grand Seiko (GS) as the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph. “Tentagraph” is self-explanatory, an acronym outlining the key features of the watch and cal. 9SC5 within: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph has all the tactile features expected in a modern, high-spec sports chronograph, namely substantial proportions and crisp, smooth pusher action. As expected for GS, it boasts high quality finishing inside and out, with the case in particular having category-leading finishing and detailing. And from a technical perspective, it is notable for being the high-frequency chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market – the balance runs at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and the power reserve is 72 hours, or three days. Aesthetically, the Tentagraph is refreshingly modern. It retains the characteristic GS design, but tweaked to accentuate the sport...

Introducing – The New Blue Enamel Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Jan 15, 2024

Introducing – The New Blue Enamel Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon

Jaeger-LeCoultre‘s Master Thin collection is home to sophisticated, understated, ultra-thin dress watches ranging from time-and-date to moon phase models and more complex proposals like tourbillons and perpetual calendars. Offered with understated beige or sunray decorated dials, JLC introduced métiers d’art dials to the collection at the end of 2018. First appearing on the Master Ultra […]

Arnold & Son True Beat Tourbillon Escapement Reviewed by Tim Mosso: The Best Tourbillon that You are Unlikely to have Heard Of Quill & Pad
Arnold & Son Jan 13, 2024

Arnold & Son True Beat Tourbillon Escapement Reviewed by Tim Mosso: The Best Tourbillon that You are Unlikely to have Heard Of

The Arnold & Son True Beat Tourbillon Escapement (TBTE) embodies two of the Swiss watch industry’s greatest talents: craftsmanship and AstroTurf. Beautifully built but tenuously tied to an historical dead guy, the True Beat is a triumph on substance. With essentially no history but outstanding modern credentials, this tourbillon proves that talent alone can yield a great watch.

New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon Deployant
Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon Jan 13, 2024

New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon

Bell & Ross is a watch brand that is known for its aviation-inspired timepieces and the iconic square dash gauge case design. The latest addition to their collection is the BR 05 Artline Dragon, a limited edition model that features a dragon motif on the dial and the case. The dragon is a symbol of power, wisdom and luck in many cultures, and it is also a tribute to the Chinese New Year of the Dragon in 2024.

Why I Bought It: The Zenith Chronomaster Tribute to Charles Vermot – Reprise Quill & Pad
Zenith Chronomaster Tribute Jan 13, 2024

Why I Bought It: The Zenith Chronomaster Tribute to Charles Vermot – Reprise

Quentin R. Bufogle could go on and on about the Zenith Chronomaster Tribute to Charles Vermot’s stunningly beautiful, metallic blue dial, silicon escapement (visible via the open heart feature), COSC chronometer certification and that it’s one of the last truly great Chronomasters, but that would be missing the point, i.e. how Charles Vermot saved Zenith.

A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split Chronograph: The World’s Only Watch that can Time Two Separate Events for 12 Hours – Reprise Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Jan 13, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split Chronograph: The World’s Only Watch that can Time Two Separate Events for 12 Hours – Reprise

In the annals of A. Lange & Söhne history, the Double Split was one of the most widely celebrated releases. It introduced the idea of a split-second and split-minute chronograph allowing the wearer to time at least two events lasting up to an hour. The Triple Split is the inevitable progression of it, adding a split-hour function to allow timing two multi-hour events up to 12 hours.

Review: Monta Oceanking (Version III) Worn & Wound
Monta Jan 12, 2024

Review: Monta Oceanking (Version III)

It was early summer in 2020 and it felt like the entire world was on fire. The Coronavirus was running rampant, and the Quebec Government had instituted draconian lockdown measures, which included a nightly curfew. If residents were not in their homes by 8pm, fines were issued. It was a horrible time. My wife and I had no choice but to work from home, and both of my boys were attempting homeschooling for the first time. My oldest was in his second year of college and my youngest was in his last year of high school. We all struggled with this new way of doing things. On the bright side however, all this togetherness allowed me to introduce my kids to some of my beloved film franchises. We went through all the Die Hards, Lethal Weapons, Beverly Hills Cops and Aliens. The latter really stuck with them and my oldest found a video game called Alien Isolation, which he insisted we try. So, we did. Coincidentally Monta had sent me an OnceanKing to review and to this day, in my brain, this watch is linked to the Alien franchise and the great time I had with my boys kicking Alien posterior! I really, really liked the Monta OceanKing version II, nevertheless it was not without its flaws. Some of which have been addressed with the new version III which I’ve been lent for review. So, let’s dive in and see what they have done. The dimensions have remained very similar, with a diameter of 40.5mm (down from 40.7mm), a thickness of 12mm (same as the previous model) and a lug-to-lug le...

Hands-on – Some Thoughts about the IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe Monochrome
IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Jan 12, 2024

Hands-on – Some Thoughts about the IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe

Approaching a hands-on article about a watch can take various angles, and one exciting perspective is to envision how a newcomer to the watch scene might react to a timepiece and what questions might arise during their exploration of the product. Let’s explore this approach as we delve into the mighty IWC Big Pilot’s Watch […]

Just A Minute With The Seiko Presage Style 60s GMT Worn & Wound
Seiko Presage Style 60s GMT Jan 12, 2024

Just A Minute With The Seiko Presage Style 60s GMT

“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more videos just for you! Today’s feature is a special GMT watch from Seiko’s Presage line. Positioned as a cut above standard Seiko watches, the Presage line offers a more premium feel and quality at a still-approachable price. While much of the lineup is focused on dressier pieces, there are sportier gems like today’s example, The Presage Style 60’s GMT, that manage to toe the line between utility and elegance. Check out the video below for our take on Seiko’s mid-century inspired GMT. If you are interested in any of the Seiko Style 60s GMTs mentioned in today’s chronicle, visit the link here. You can also schedule a consultation at our Brooklyn Offices to try one out in person. “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more videos just for you! Today’s feature is a special GMT watch from Seiko’s Presage line. Positioned as a cut above standard Seiko watches, the Presage line offers a...

Longines Introduces Two Luxurious Gold GMTs to their Master Collection Worn & Wound
Longines Introduces Two Luxurious Gold Jan 12, 2024

Longines Introduces Two Luxurious Gold GMTs to their Master Collection

Since its release in 2005, the Master Collection has enjoyed pride-of-place in Longines’ line of watches. With its mix of contemporary appeal and timeless charm, the Master Collection remains a reliable favorite for those looking to enjoy this Swiss watch brand.  And now, Longines has expanded the Master series with two solid gold versions featuring a GMT complication in the aptly named Master Collection GMT. Admirers of the brand can now enjoy the option of either an 18-carat yellow or 18-carat rose gold. With these two new references, Longines is showing us the versatility of these classic silhouettes, allowing a wearer to dress this watch up – or down – to better fit one’s lifestyle.  Sitting at 40mm, this case will give any wrist some presence while the frosted silver dial softens the overall appearance. It’s the small details of this dial, in fact, which really show the attention that Longines has put into the Master Collection. This includes a 24-hour scale in Arabic numerals on the rim, cleverly reversed at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock for convenient second time zone reading. A railroad minute track separates these Arabic numerals from the Roman numerals of the applied gold hour markers. Adding functionality, a discreet date aperture is placed at 6 o’clock. Elegant gold hands mark the hours, minutes, and seconds, while the GMT hand, accentuated in black, aligns with the 24-hour scale numerals for enhanced readability of the second time zone. Both new re...

Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” into Regular Production SJX Watches
Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” Jan 12, 2024

Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” into Regular Production

After implementing the all-black aesthetic only in limited editions, Seiko has revived the Prospex Black Series but now as part of the standard catalogue.  Based on familiar models from the current lineup – the Prospex Sea “Turtle” diver (SRPK43) and the Prospex Speedtimer solar-powered chronograph (SSC923). Whilst the monochromatic black-on-black palette is a favourite for sports watches, the standout feature of the new pair is the green luminous paint on the hands and indices that has a retro feel, being reminiscent of the luminous radium applied to watch dials for most of the 20th century. Initial thoughts It’s gratifying to know the once limited Black Series is now accessible as part of the regular product line, since it’s an appealing, affordable sports watch. Admittedly this will be disappointing to some owners of past models that were limited editions, but it is not surprising considering the success of the earlier versions from 2017 and 2020. As for the watches themselves, the green Lumibrite on the hands and markers is the key differentiating factor, with the rest of each watch having the same design and dimensions as their standard steel equivalents. A useful extra would have been additional strap or bracelet options for a wider range of looks, particularly since all-black watches are now often paired with high-contrast straps. The Speedtimer is priced at US$700, while the Turtle retails for US$725. Each cost slightly more than the standard steel vers...

OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: 2023 Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline Review WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline Jan 12, 2024

OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: 2023 Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline Review

What’s it like to own the Tudor Back Bay GMT Opaline Dial? And is it better than the original Black Bay GMT with the black dial? After spending half the year with mine, I know my answer! Purchasing Expectations Loved the bulky aesthetic Wanted a traveller’s GMT that ticked all the boxes My first Swiss luxury watch brand Ownership Reality Incredibly well-rounded and reliable; A true GADA timepiece Perhaps too bulky, almost unbalanced even on the bracelet Where is the in-clasp adjustment? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Taking the Pepsi Plunge If you have just dipped your toes into the whirlpool that is the watch world, you would know the recognisable blue and red colours of the Rolex GMT-Master II, nicknamed “Pepsi.” You would also know that acquiring such a watch is – for want of a better phrase – a massive pain in the behind! To even get a chance at one, you must: A)     Know a guy who knows a guy, or B)      Play games with the Authorised Dealer for what can extend to an eternity, or C)      Fork over exorbitant amounts of money for instant gratification on the secondary market. If you’re in the same financial situation as me, or even significantly wealthier, this kind of behaviour would put anyone off from trying to get one.            Even so, they are still incredibly popular – but that’s a whole different rabbit hole to go down. So, when Tudor released the original Bla...

Lookbook: Keeping It Classic with the Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon Worn & Wound
Brew Metric Black & Gold Jan 11, 2024

Lookbook: Keeping It Classic with the Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon

The funny thing about classic designs and the good old days is that you often recognize them only once they are over-when you are no longer experiencing them in the present. But how remarkable would it be to own and wear something knowing that it was made precisely for its time but with potential as a future classic? The Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon chronograph seeks to accomplish just that: to be a watch designed for this very moment but distinctive enough to be recognized for generations to come. As the latest evolution of the Metric chronograph, the Black & Gold is at once evocative and alluring. The Metric is perhaps Brew’s most famous design with its off-centered sub-dials and curvaceous case and bracelet. The elapsed seconds dial at ten o’clock curiously marks the optimal window of time to extract the perfect espresso shot, which is just the kind of anachronism and modern charm that has come to define Brew as a whole. The stealthy 36mm case and bracelet, subtle touches of carbon along the edge of the dial, and gold accents all combine to make a beautiful watch that is just different enough from the mainstream today. In other words, it just might be a future classic. The post Lookbook: Keeping It Classic with the Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Blancpain Revisits the Traditional Chinese Calendar for the Year of the Dragon SJX Watches
Blancpain Revisits Jan 11, 2024

Blancpain Revisits the Traditional Chinese Calendar for the Year of the Dragon

Originally introduced 12 years ago, Blancpain’s Villeret Chinese Calendar was the first serially-produced wristwatch to feature this specific calendar. To mark the start of the new year, the brand unveils the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Wood Dragon“. Featuring both the Chinese and Gregorian calendar, the limited edition is presented in an unusual combination of green enamel and rose gold, a first for the model. Initial thoughts Though it is not longer unique, the Villeret Chinese Calendar was the first of its kind at launch in 2012, making it a landmark for Blancpain. However, the aesthetic went unchanged for all of that time, so a new dial is certainly welcome. While watch brands can often iterate a model too often, Blancpain certainly wasn’t guilty of that here. The new model is more striking than its predecessors. The dial departs from the white enamel that’s been standard for the model since the beginning. Though green is an unusual choice, it suits the complication well as it evokes the colour of jade, which is also thematically congruent with the theme. While it is good thing to see this watch with a new dial colour, it would have been even better to see an upgrade to the movement in some way, as the calibre has been unchanged since its introduction. While the movement is still impressive and complicated, it is big. In fact, a significant mechanical upgrade could be retaining the exact same calendar functions, but in a smaller or thin...

Our New Year’s Resolutions for 2024 Worn & Wound
Jan 10, 2024

Our New Year’s Resolutions for 2024

Last week, Zach Kazan shared his personal watch related New Years Resolution. This time around the rest of the team is getting in on the action. We asked the Editorial team and our roster of contributors to think about what they hope to accomplish in the watch space in 2024. A theme emerged quickly: almost everyone wants to consolidate, buy fewer watches, or some combination of the two. This, it should be noted, is not surprising. Watch collectors tend to indulge themselves, recognize it, and quickly commit to reversing course. Does change ever really take hold? Let’s just say, it remains to be seen. Even though many of these resolutions sound the same on the surface, the reasoning making tough decisions to sell, or to scale back the purchasing, vary quite a bit, and it’s a lot of fun to see everyone’s philosophies laid bare here at the start of the year. And it’s not all about cutting back: some of these resolutions actually involve actively buying more watches, and taking on a greater role in local and internet based watch communities. That’s definitely a resolution we can all get behind. Zach Weiss  My watch resolution this year is a simple one, consolidate. Well, consolidate and focus. I’m going to push myself to make hard decisions, sell off watches I love but don’t wear enough (that means the once or twice-a-monthers), and put them towards something special. Not something that just pops up either. I want to be more intentional. My interests have veere...

Garrick Launches an S2 with the Most Esoteric of Complications: Deadbeat Seconds Worn & Wound
Garrick Jan 10, 2024

Garrick Launches an S2 with the Most Esoteric of Complications: Deadbeat Seconds

Garrick, one of our favorite watchmakers in the burgeoning “micro-indie” space, has introduced a watch that is truly niche to start 2024. Really, it’s a niche of a niche, because even the most straightforward Garrick is a highly specialized enthusiast focused object. Each one is custom made for its owner, and Garrick offers a head spinning variety of customization options so clients can truly make their new watch their own. Now, with the latest entrant in Garrick’s growing S2 lineup, customers can opt for one of the most unusual and esoteric complications of all: the deadbeat second.    The Garrick S2 Deadbeat Seconds employs the  Calibre DB-GO6, a movement built from the ground up with an unusual party trick: instead of a smooth sweeping motion that most mechanical watch collectors are accustomed to, the seconds hand driven by this caliber “ticks” in a manner that is similar to a quartz watch. It’s anachronistic to say the least, and the complication has come to represent something akin to an insider’s secret for the way it upends expectations about how we expect a mechanical watch to function. Historically, the complication has roots in the scientific community, as timing events to the second in this manner was advantageous in certain circumstances.  The S2 case is 42mm in stainless steel (gold cases are also available) and customers begin the custom ordering process by selecting either a MK 1 dial (with a heat blued skeletonized chapter ring) or a MK...

40 Best Minimalist Watches - A Complete Guide for 2024 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 10, 2024

40 Best Minimalist Watches - A Complete Guide for 2024

The concept of minimalism has become an attractive idea in our modern world of excess.  For many, the term has been elevated to a point where it embodies a lifestyle of drawing bold lines betweeb what is deemed necessary and what is superfluous. Still, the term tends to get thrown around loosely; often,  describing an object or process as "minimalist" seems to indicate an absence of thought put into it. Among the areas where the idea of minimalism is best expressed is through the world of industrial design and watches. Watches, despite not being necessary tools at they level they once were, are still objects whose design needs to be in service of a specific function. When these worlds of aesthetics and utility meet in an exceptionally clean and legible fashion, the pinnacle of horological minimalism is achieved; it's not less for the sake of less, but the least possible to do the job. In this buying guide, we have compiled a list of the best minimalist watches that should be on your radar. The degree to which each of these pieces sustains the levels of minimalist principles previously mentioned vary, but all of them succeed to a point in their approach to tackling their inherent function. A Few Ground Rules We are not going to be able to cover every watch in the industry but plan to add to this list in the future. Secondly, the idea of what constitutes something as “minimalist” is subjective, however, we will be using the themes previously addressed as wel...

Three Cool MTGB Releases This Year Worn & Wound
Casio G-Shocks are designed Jan 10, 2024

Three Cool MTGB Releases This Year

G-Shocks, with all their usual bells and whistles, have always been statement watches. From the simplest 2100 or 5600 series to today’s highlight, the MGTB series, Casio G-Shocks are designed to demonstrate strength with some attitude. Leaning into the boldness of the designs is one of the most enjoyable ways to interact and consider watches that you don’t see every day. In today’s lineup, maximalism and being outside of the box are the name of the game. We’re not sure exactly what “MGTB” stands for, but we wouldn’t be surprised if it was something like “Mega Tremendous Giant Big..”, well, you get the point. Make a real impact and check out these three G-Shocks right here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, we invite you to join our Rewards Program to earn points and save with every purchase. G-Shocks, with all their usual bells and whistles, have always been statement watches. From the simplest 2100 or 5600 series to today’s highlight, the MGTB series, Casio G-Shocks are designed to demonstrate strength with some attitude. Leaning into the boldness of the designs is one of the most enjoyable ways to interact and consider watches that you don’t see every day. In today’s lineup, maximalism and being outside of the box are the name of the game. We’re not sure exactly what “MGTB” stands for, but we wouldn’t be surprised if it was something like “Mega Tremendous Giant Big..”, well, you get the point. Make a real impact and check out these t...