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Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications Time+Tide
Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications Mar 30, 2023

Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications

The Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications pays tribute to their Geneva home The Grand Feu cloisonné section of the dial depicts a steamship from the Belle Époque fleet that has been cruising Lake Geneva for over a century The calibre R 27 HU is equipped with world time and minute repeater complications Technical mastery is … ContinuedThe post Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Chronoswiss CEO Oliver Ebstein reveals Chronoswiss’s captivating 2023 novelties Revolution
Chronoswiss Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: Chronoswiss CEO Oliver Ebstein reveals Chronoswiss’s captivating 2023 novelties

Oliver Ebstein, CEO of Chronoswiss, presents his ravishing Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties to Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution. Chronoswiss timepieces making their debut at this preeminent watch fair include the Open Gear Paraiba, inspired by the jungles of Brazil; the 18K gold Space Timer Jupiter Gold; and the Open Gear ReSec Aurora, inspired by […]

Should this Watch Exist? The Solid Gold Aquaracer is a Surprise Watches & Wonders Highlight Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Mar 29, 2023

Should this Watch Exist? The Solid Gold Aquaracer is a Surprise Watches & Wonders Highlight

Ladies and gentlemen, I have a new obsession. Zach Weiss already told you about the latest Carreras from TAG Heuer, and they are undoubtedly pretty great. But the watch that stole the show for me from the TAG presentation was a solid gold Aquaracer. Yes, a solid gold Aquaracer. It wasn’t too long ago that we were universally kind of gobsmacked by a solar powered titanium version of this very same watch. Now, if you’d like, you can have a pair in two very different metals, which give very different impressions.  The key to this Aquaracer is the complementary nature of the rose gold case and the degrade dial, which is a warm blend of brown and gray. The bezel and tops of the lugs have a sandblasted finish that mimics the utilitarian look of titanium reference, but there are polished accents that really make the precious metal pop, and that’s kind of what you want on a watch like this.  Aside from the solid gold case, though, this is the Aquaracer we know and love (but just, you know, elevated to an insane degree). Inside ticks a TH31-00 automatic movement, a new caliber built by AMT, Sellita’s high end division. It has 80 hours of power reserve and has been COSC certified, so in terms of specs it’s highly competitive with calibers found in other high end divers. The case still measures a tidy 40mm in diameter. The horizontal ridged pattern that the Aquaracer’s dials have adopted recently is also present, and I can’t understate how well the tone of that dial w...

VIDEO: Jeremiah gets his hands on the new UR-102 designs of 2023 Revolution
Urwerk s atelier Jeremiah Chan Mar 29, 2023

VIDEO: Jeremiah gets his hands on the new UR-102 designs of 2023

At Urwerk’s atelier, Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor, got to know the back story of the iconic UR-102 in detail. As you might be aware, the UR-102 is inspired by the Sputnik satellite, and this unconventional timepiece played a fundamental role in launching Urwerk to success, along with paving the way for futuristic independent watchmaking. […]

VIDEO: The new Oris Propilot X Kermit Edition, Oris ProPilot Altimeter and Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 Revolution
Oris Propilot X Kermit Edition Mar 29, 2023

VIDEO: The new Oris Propilot X Kermit Edition, Oris ProPilot Altimeter and Oris Big Crown Calibre 473

Rolf Studer, CEO of Oris, shows Oris’s Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties to Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution. If you’re a watch fan, you might have heard about the Oris Propilot X Kermit Edition, designed by Oris’s creative director Ken Laurent and Disney’s The Muppets. A short film was made about this special watch, which […]

VIDEO: Dazzling new novelties presented by Piaget CEO Benjamin Comar Revolution
Piaget CEO Benjamin Comar Benjamin Mar 29, 2023

VIDEO: Dazzling new novelties presented by Piaget CEO Benjamin Comar

Benjamin Comar, CEO of Piaget, welcomes Revolution Founder Wei Koh and Revolution Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto to experience Piaget’s Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties. This foray’s flagship complication is the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, a 42mm watch that was presented in green dial a month before Watches and Wonders 2023, and is now available in […]

TAG Heuer Reinvents an Icon with the Carrera Chronograph 39mm “Glassbox” Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Reinvents Mar 29, 2023

TAG Heuer Reinvents an Icon with the Carrera Chronograph 39mm “Glassbox”

Does the TAG Heuer Carrera really need an introduction? Well, I suppose to be thorough. One of the iconic motorsport chronographs, it was launched in 1963, deftly combining the sleekness and excitement of the sport that inspired it. While over the decades there have been many variations and evolutions to the Carrera, the original 2447 from 1963 has always served as a source for the brand to go back to when reinvigorating the line. This year is the 60th anniversary of the Carrera, which they already began celebrating back in January with the release of a model that stayed very close to that original reference, though with general modern updates. While that model goes literally back to the Carreras roots, the newly launched Carrera 39mm “glassbox” mixes modern and vintage details into one of the most attractive packages from TAG in some time. There are three models to the collection, two 39mm three-register chronos, and a 42mm chrono-tourbillon. Focusing on the former, the fact that these non-revival, non-limited Carreras are at 39mm is the first aspect to celebrate. This size, while not small by today’s standards nor the same as the original (it was 36mm), is small for TAG, whose modern chronographs are generally 41 – 45mm. I suspect, however, there is a reason for this. As the title “glassbox” literally states, these Carrera’s have large domed sapphire crystals. Like, really large. While it is said they are inspired by the domed Hesalite crystals of 70s Carre...

Hermes Expands their H08 Collection with Sleek New Three Handers and an Impressive Chronograph Worn & Wound
Hermes Expands their H08 Collection Mar 29, 2023

Hermes Expands their H08 Collection with Sleek New Three Handers and an Impressive Chronograph

This year, Hermès has expanded their H08 line with their Watches & Wonders novelties, adding several new colors to the base model in their composite case material, as well as a very impressive monopusher chronograph. Hermès is a favorite meeting at Watches & Wonders. The brand has a history that sits well outside traditional Swiss watchmaking culture. As a luxury design house, they are primarily known for their leather work, and the iconography of the brand is largely associated with their roots in equestrian sports. They have greatly expanded their watchmaking reach in recent years, however, with Vaucher supplied movements and a series of winning designs that have legitimized the brand in the watchmaking space.  The H08 was introduced two years ago as the “sporty-chic” Hermès sports watch. This year’s new introductions feature the brand’s very interesting composite material, made from a mix of carbon fiber and graphene powder. The result is a lightweight 39mm case that Hermès claims is resistant to wear, and it has a unique textured appearance that looks almost hammered by hand but is smooth to the touch (Hermès says it’s coated with aluminum and slate powder). Whether or not the aesthetic is appealing will be a largely subjective matter, but the case has a great weight and feel on the wrist, and the cushion shape is comfortable and seems well suited to casual, daily wear. The case is accented with a black ceramic bezel that makes for a great contrast with...

Cartier Introduces the Privé Tank Normale SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 29, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Privé Tank Normale

Cartier has long mined its extensive archives for inspiration, particularly for the Privé collection of historically-inspired watches. Having revived the Tank Asymetrique and Cloche, the jeweller now turns to the first-ever Tank with the Privé Tank Normale. Like past Privé models, the new Normale faithfully adheres to the historical original, but unlike other Privé models, it is offered with the option of a matching, precious-metal bracelet. Initial thoughts  Like last year’s Privé Tank Chinoise, the Tank Normale is less familiar than say, the Tank Cintree, having been discontinued for some time. Although the Tank Normale was the original Tank design of 1917, it has been out of the catalogue for long enough to have some novelty. The Tank Normale stays true to the original in almost all respects. The case, for instance, is marginally larger than vintage examples but compact enough it feels like a vintage watch. Even the bevelled sapphire crystal mimics the glass on the originals. But the watch incorporates modest tweaks that set it apart as a modern watch, like the expanded railway minute track. These design updates reveal a good attention to detail in updating the watch without changing too much. Especially noteworthy is the bracelet, an option rarely offered by Cartier for its high-end men’s watches. It’s executed well in both design and build, while also being acceptably priced as such things go (although pricey in absolute terms). The OG Tank The Tank Norma...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Mar 29, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R

Adding to its diverse line-up of travel watches, Patek Philippe has just taken the wraps off the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R. A bold design, the ref. 5224R is Patek Philippe’s most novel travel watch to date. It is notable for having a 24-hour display inspired by the Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches made for Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau in the early twentieth century. Initial thoughts The ref. 5224R is instantly striking thanks to the high contrast between the dial colour and rose gold case, busy dial design, and large, thin case. Though it is in essence a three-hander with an extra second time zone hand, it is far more interesting, even intimidating due to the 44 applied indices that give the dial something of an instrument-like appearance. The 24-hour display elevates the quirkiness of the design, which arguably strengthens the overall aesthetic. Admittedly, this comes at a cost of legibility – it is not the most intuitive watch to read. It takes a while to get used to, so reliability will be an issue if one is rotating between different watches in his or her collection. More surprising is the case size, which at 42 mm is massive for Patek Philippe. It is also unusual given the traditional case design, although the large case emphasises the slimness of the case. The large size is likely intentional to provide space for the applied numerals, and is perhaps rooted in the large size of the Gondolo pocket watches. Still, one wonders if ...

Czapek Opens the Dial of Antarctique in New Révélation Worn & Wound
Czapek Opens Mar 28, 2023

Czapek Opens the Dial of Antarctique in New Révélation

Czapek is following up their new Dark Titanium Antarctique (which we introduced to you right here) with something a bit different in the form of the Révélation. This variant offers an openworked dial to enjoy the new purpose-built SXH7 movement within. Doing open dials is something of an artform, and Czapek has proven quite adept at maximizing the space given. To do so here, they had to alter the core of their SXH5 movement to such a degree that it became something else entirely in the process. The payoff was clearly worth it, offering a beautiful view into the unique design language of Czapek’s movement ethos.  The Antarctique Révélation expands on the rapidly maturing collection, and sets a new tone in the process. This case and bracelet have proven they can easily adapt to a variety of dial configurations, from the very simple, managing the focal point; to the relatively wild, thus relinquishing it. This watch is clearly an example of the latter, with one of those dials that just keeps on giving, with small details and hidden away areas to discover. Perhaps the most interesting part of this watch is the commitment to the movement in an effort to get the openworked details right. It began, according to Czapek, with a request from a fan of the brand. CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel explains: “People were in love with the remarkable design of our SXH5 movement, and we therefore asked ourselves how we could somehow make it visible on the dial” and …”soon a far more...

Zenith’s Defy Revival Shadow is a New Look for a Classic Worn & Wound
Zenith s Defy Revival Shadow Mar 28, 2023

Zenith’s Defy Revival Shadow is a New Look for a Classic

One of the things we love about Zenith is the way they walk the line between unapologetically contemporary (think: the Defy Extreme range) and watches that pay sincere tribute to their past. The latter would encompass much of the Chronomaster collection, for example, which is rife with watches that amount to tasteful updates of much loved vintage pieces. There are times, though, when tributes to heritage and a modern aesthetic collide, and that’s what we have with the new Defy Revival Shadow, a watch that combines the iconic profile of the very first Defy with a blasted titanium treatment that gives it a completely new and modern appearance.  If you’ve been keeping up with Zenith, you’re certainly aware that the Defy Revival has played a major role in their release strategy over the past year, starting with a faithful reissue of the original version last year and then moving on to red and teal. No matter the dial color, though, the dominant design trait of these watches is always the unusual case. There’s really nothing else quite like it. It’s completely compact at just 37mm and has an elaborate 14 sided bezel and 8 sided case that gives the entire package a complex geometry that must have felt quite avant garde when the design was introduced in the 1970s. For this release, Zenith has stripped the case of its signature finishing and given it the same bead blasted titanium treatment as the Chronomaster Revival Shadow. As a sibling to the earlier shadow, this wat...

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908 Worn & Wound
Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908

Among the bevy of new Rolex watches released this year were a few unexpected watches, which isn’t a phrase we often mutter about the brand. We saw some unusually colorful dials (more on those later), and the launch of an entirely new formal collection called the Perpetual 1908, a reference to the brand’s name coinage by Wans Wilsdorf. With its introduction, the existing Cellini line has come to a close. The 1908 lives within the ‘classic’ range alongside the likes of the Oyster Perpetual and Sky-Dweller, but feels distinctly different from any existing line. Coming from a brand that’s been at the center of the sport watch craze over the past decade, the 1908 feels like a breath of fresh air. The Perpetual 1908 is a three hand time only watch offered only in 18k white or yellow gold. The trim case measures 39mm in diameter with a divided, partially fluted bezel framing the austere dial. Within resides the Rolex automatic caliber 7140, which gets a healthy amount of decoration worthy of being presented through an exhibition caseback. This is a new move from Rolex this year, appearing on both this watch, and the 60th anniversary platinum Daytona. The bridges of the 7140 receive a finish that the brand is calling “Rolex Côtes de Genève”, a re-interpretation of the classic technique seen often in Swiss movements. It differs from traditional Côtes de Genève in that it places a narrow polished groove between each of the parallel bands. Being a Rolex, there’s a...

Zenith Relaunches the Pilot with Two New Aviation Themed Watches Worn & Wound
Zenith Relaunches Mar 28, 2023

Zenith Relaunches the Pilot with Two New Aviation Themed Watches

It’s the year of the Pilot for Zenith. After shoring up their Chronomaster collection and injecting new life into the Defy over the last few years, Zenith has returned to the Pilot collection and given it a complete revamp. The Pilot is a historic line for Zenith, having trademarked the word “Pilote” all the way back in 1888 (and “Pilot” in 1904). In the early days of the company, the brand focused largely on the manufacture of flight instruments and watches for pilots. They of course weren’t the only brand to cut their manufacturing teeth on the burgeoning need for these types of devices, but were (and still are) the only brand to trademark the word “Pilot,” which allows them the opportunity to use it on the dial in a way other brand’s can’t. The new collection is a stab at bringing something very old in Zenith’s history and making it new in a very explicit way. In other words, these aren’t vintage inspired pilot’s watches, but something far more contemporary. There are two new watches making their debut this week, each in two different materials, for a total of four new Pilots flying their way into boutiques soon enough. The Pilot Automatic is a three hander running on the El Primero 3620, the same chrono-less EP movement found in the Defy Skyline collection. We get a date at 6:00, right below a horizontal line that is meant to recall indicators on a pilot’s instrument panel to refer them back to the horizon line. The Arabic numerals are large...

Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 Refs. 52508 and 52509 SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 Refs. 52508 and 52509

Due to its enviable position as the leading Swiss watch brand by revenue, Rolex tends to dominate headlines for even the smallest changes to its collections. So it’s even bigger news when the brand launches an entirely new collection, the Perpetual 1908, as it has on the opening day of this year’s Watches & Wonders. Named for the year that Hans Wilsdorf registered the Rolex trademark in Switzerland, the Perpetual 1908 is a slim, time-only watch with a display back that signals a renewed focus on the dress watch category for the giant of Geneva. Initial thoughts The Perpetual 1908 is a worthy replacement for the outgoing Cellini collection, which to me always felt like the forgotten child of the Rolex portfolio. Forced to use movements from their sportier siblings, the Cellini watches were never able to achieve the right proportions to be taken seriously as dress watches. The Perpetual 1908 debuts in four references in yellow and white gold, with the option of white or black satin finish dials; the black dials look especially good. The designs are atypical for Rolex, featuring a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock, and a new handset. “Superlative Chronometer” drapes over the sub-seconds dial, calling to mind the Rolex Veriflat of the 1950s. Speaking of the Veriflat, the 1908 case measures just 9.5 mm thick thanks to the new cal. 7140. This is a big improvement over the Cellini watches, which were over 12 mm thick. The 1908’s dress watch credentials are bolstered fur...

The new Odysseus Chronograph is the first-ever automatic chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Mar 28, 2023

The new Odysseus Chronograph is the first-ever automatic chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne

Four years after its introduction, the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus is now presented in a chronograph format First-ever automatic chronograph calibre for A. Lange & Söhne – the new L156.1 DATOMATIC® calibre Boutique exclusive limited edition of 100 pcs. I hesitate to use the phrase ‘alternative’ here. Upon its introduction four years ago, the A. Lange … ContinuedThe post The new Odysseus Chronograph is the first-ever automatic chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial Time+Tide
Patek Philippe introduces Mar 28, 2023

Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial

The Patek Philippe 5224R is slated to be the ultimate travel Calatrava It pairs a slim micro-rotor calibre with a travel time complication and 24-hour display All the movement functions are operated via the crown via a patented system The travel time has become somewhat of a Patek Philippe signature over the years, with the … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Patek Philippe 5178G-012 is a minute repeater with a stunning flinqué enamel dial Time+Tide
Patek Philippe 5178G-012 Mar 28, 2023

The Patek Philippe 5178G-012 is a minute repeater with a stunning flinqué enamel dial

The Patek Philippe 5178G-012 impresses through its flinqué blue Grand Feu enamel dial. The 40mm case is made from illustrious 18k white gold. The calibre R 27 PS features a 22k gold micro-rotor and a minute repeater complication. Being perhaps the most famous high-horology watchmaker of the current age, it’s never going to be totally … ContinuedThe post The Patek Philippe 5178G-012 is a minute repeater with a stunning flinqué enamel dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a monthly celebration of Fozzie Bear’s best pal Time+Tide
Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Mar 28, 2023

The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a monthly celebration of Fozzie Bear’s best pal

The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition features a date window in which Miss Piggy’s ex makes a monthly appearance The watch itself is based on the 39mm titanium ProPilot X Calibre 400 Oris wanted to ensure the collaboration didn’t overpower the overall watch design Growing up, I learned a British superstition that you’re meant to … ContinuedThe post The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a monthly celebration of Fozzie Bear’s best pal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.