Revolution
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Time+Tide
The Czapek Antarctique Flying Diamonds is dressed up with everywhere to go
Despite an aventurine dial and sparkly diamond indices, the Antarctique Flying Diamonds is still subtle.The post The Czapek Antarctique Flying Diamonds is dressed up with everywhere to go appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding
Last year Vacheron Constantin (VC) the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding ref. 82172, a fresh variant of the brand’s longstanding time-only dress watch. Combining an 18k pink gold case with a sunburst green dial, the new Traditionnelle is an unusual and bold twist on the traditional formal wear timepiece. Although compact in dimensions and formal in style, it stands out as dress watch that different without trying too hard. Initial thoughts The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is arguably VC’s quintessential dress watch. It has a traditional aesthetic and perfect proportions at 38 mm. And though it’s an entry-level model, it features upscale details like solid-gold indices and hands, along with a refined movement. The most familiar iteration of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is pink gold with a silver dial, which is classic but perhaps too plain for some. Similarly, most dress watches, VC or otherwise, tend to be in conservative colours, silver, cream, black and so on. The new Traditionnelle Manual-Winding, on the other hand, is a striking metallic green that’s flashy but not overly so. The combination is unconventional as a dress watch, but it works well. And it’s also one of the most affordable dress watches in the brand’s catalogue. Only the Patrimony 40 mm is less expensive but that has the slightly simpler cal. 1400 movement. The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding on the other hand sports the higher-end cal. 4400 AS, a large movement with a long power reserve that...
Time+Tide
The best stone dials that we have yet to see
We've all seen lapis and onyx dials, but what about those beautiful stones that are seemingly forgotten by watchmaking?The post The best stone dials that we have yet to see appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – Three New High-End King Seiko Watches with Colourful Textured Dials
An important name in the history of the Japanese watchmaker, King Seiko was, at some point, the incarnation of what the Daini Seikosha production site could do best and became a rival for Grand Seiko. The name fell into oblivion before returning in 2020 when Seiko Watch Corporation decided it was time to see King […]
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Laurent Ferrier's Finest? This is the stunning new Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal
Monochrome
Introducing – Longines Launches 15 New References in the Master Collection With Engraved Dials
Possibly the most classic and timeless range of Longines, the Master Collection has long been slightly overlooked since its inception in 2005, maybe due to a rather shy design. Yet, in 2022 to mark the brand’s 190th anniversary, Longines gave this collection a highly appealing twist, with grained dials and engraved Breguet-like numerals, elevating this […]
Fratello
A Perfect Sequel - The New Biver Automatique Dials It Up
Our schedules were full at Geneva Watch Days 2024, but one of the most anticipated sessions was a late-afternoon meeting with Biver. We knew the young brand had a secret new release on the way, but details were scarce. The team, including Pierre Biver, showed us the new Biver Automatique line comprised of four references. […] Visit A Perfect Sequel - The New Biver Automatique Dials It Up to read the full article.
First Look – The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80, now with Gradient Dials or in Full Forged Carbon
One of the Swiss watch industry’s main successes from recent years, and Tissot‘s star collection, the PRX range has become a true hit since its inaugural release in 2021. Since then, this collection has been drastically enlarged to offer more movements, more colours, more materials, more straps and more dimensions. While we thought the mint […]
SJX Watches
Longines’ Retro Legend Diver 39 mm in Modern Colours
For the 65th of its trademark vintage dive watch of the 1960s, Longines is giving the modern remake a set of new colours. The new Legend Diver is essentially extensions of last year’s release, retaining the double-crown case in the smaller 39 mm size and gaining new dial colours in green, terracotta, or anthracite grey. The model is equipped with a “grains-of-rice” stainless steel bracelet with a micro-adjustment feature. Initial thoughts While many brands, namely Rolex and Blancpain, have established a familiar template for the dive watch, Longines has its a distinct design with the Legend Diver that has its characteristic Super Compressor case with two crowns and internal bezel. The design isn’t unique to Longines but the brand has arguably been most successful with it in the modern day And compared to other Super Compressor-style divers in this price range, the Legend Diver has the advantage of a higher-spec movement in the form of the COSC-certified L888.6 with 72 hours of power reserve. This makes the Legend Diver an appealing and affordable watch that’s priced at US$3,400. Lacquered colours The highlight of the release are the lacquered dial in green, terracotta and anthracite grey. The colour extends to the rotating bi-directional bezel designed for measuring dive time. The bezel can be rotated utilising the screw-in crown at two o’clock. The dial layout is symmetrical with no date, and features elongated indices and raised Arabic numerals coated with Su...
A Week in Watches Ep. 88 – An Unbelievable Collab, Pumpkin Spice Dials, and More!
On episode 88 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss takes you through several new and wild releases. Geneva Watch Days kicked off last week and with it, many cool things were announced. But that’s not all, as there were some surprise announcements too. There was a lot to cover from Armin Strom to Grand Seiko to Tudor. Check it out below. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, which has just added several awesome watches to its collection. From Hamilton, they’ve added the just released 33 and 38mm Khaki Field Quartz. Yes, 33mm just like the original Khaki fields. From Louis Erard is the new Metropolis Green, an art deco inspired collaboration with the Instagram famous @thehorophile. There’s also more from Casio, G-SHOCK, Laco, and others so head to windupwatchshop.com to check them out. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 88 – An Unbelievable Collab, Pumpkin Spice Dials, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Fratello Talks: Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches?
Monochrome
Introducing – New Dials for the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38
Arnold & Son’s obsession with the Moon has materialised in different models, revealing our neighbouring satellite in its most spectacular form. Starting with the Perpetual Moon of 2013 with its enormous moon, followed by the Double Hemisphere Perpetual with two large moons and culminating with the 2021 Luna Magna with one of the largest spherical […]
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue
Tudor’s latest release is the Black Bay Chrono Blue, a boutique-exclusive with a familiar “Panda” dial with snowflake hands, but now in “Tudor Blue”. Just like its pink dial, limited production counterpart, the new chronograph is equipped with a “5-link” bracelet, which is basically Tudor’s version of the Jubilee bracelet. Initial thoughts Tudor is a brand that combines appealing, functional design with historical basis – and an exceptional price-performance ratio. Though still excellent value, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is not revolutionary; the only novel element is the blue dial. However, it remains a strong option for anyone looking for affordable sports chronograph with a high-spec movement. I prefer the look of the original black-and-silver “Panda” dial, but I would lean towards the new variant simply because it is the only regular production model equipped with the “5-link” bracelet that pairs well with the design. Priced at US$5,675, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is a great value proposition. Its strongest feature is the COSC-certified MT5813, a calibre based on Breitling’s B01 but upgraded significantly by Tudor and likely the best chronograph movement at this price point. Tudor blue The stainless steel case is 41 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness. Water resistant to 200 m, the case features a screw-down crown engraved with the Tudor rose logo and screw-down pushers. The case is satin-brushed on its tops, and mirror-polished on its sid...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Malachite Limited Edition
Frederique Constant has updated its Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture with a premium 18k white gold case and green malachite dial that’s being released in limited numbers. It’s aesthetically similar to the British racing green (dial) steel variant from a few months ago, but is now much more premium with the change in materials. The watch […]
SJX Watches
Citizen’s Affordable Series 8 GMT in Mother-of-Pearl
Having already debuted a thoughtful reissue of a pocket watch for its centenary, Citizen is continuing with the commemorative editions with something more affordable: the Series 8 880 100th Anniversary. Featuring a second time zone function and integrated bracelet, the watch has a tone-tone finish of brushed steel and blue-coated steel, matched with a blue mother-of-pearl dial. Initial thoughts The Series 8 GMT is most notable for being a “true” GMT – with an independently adjustable hour hand – at an affordable price point. It retails for just under US$2,000, and most GMT watches in this price segment have an add-on GMT function of an adjustable 24-hour hand instead. While the standard versions of the Series 8 GMT are in familiar GMT colours, including a blue and red “Pepsi” version, this anniversary edition is unusual with the blue case treatment and sky-blue mother-of-pearl dial. For someone who wants an affordable, functional dual time zone that looks different, this is a competitive proposition. A true-blue GMT The Series 8 GMT has a two-part case construction that allows for the unusual two-tone finish of grey and blue. A central section that’s coated blue slots into the case middle, giving it the twin blue flanks on either side of the bezel. Measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13.5 mm high, the case is entirely steel, with the blue components coated to achieve the blue finish. Like the other Series 8 models, this has alternating brushed and polished fin...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: The Cincinnati Watch Co Desk Diver
“Sold Out,” the words marking what was previously an “add to cart” button, reminding me that I missed out on the original drop. Just a few months ago, a small unassuming brand just 4 hours south of me in Cincinnati, Ohio teased a few images of an eye-catching dive-style watch sporting the tongue-in-cheek dial text of “0 ft = 0m, No Submersion, Superlative Desk Diver, Unofficially Certified”. While it is true that a lot of brands release watches on the more playful side of things, it is rare that the actual watch appears well executed throughout but instead leans into the whimsical, forgetting about tradition and practicality. So as further details and images were revealed of the 75-piece limited edition, it began to paint a picture of a well-made everyday watch utilizing new old stock Swiss-made cases poking fun at the seriousness plaguing the watch community. I loaded up the website, then swung and missed. So, when I learned that a non limited Desk Diver was in production with an upcoming release, I jumped at the opportunity to get the model on my wrist and give it a proper go. Being that the original was limited simply due to the number of cases found after 50 years of hiding, Cincinnati Watch Co. set out to recreate a faithful case design made to a modern specification. The vintage-inspired cushion case measures a stout 43.3 mm in diameter. Despite its large measurements on paper, the Desk Diver Professional makes use of its clever geometry to disappear on...
Video
£35,000 Rolex Deal Brings Client from New York - Inside The Luxury Watch Company
Worn & Wound
The Difference Between Type A and Type B Pilot Watch Dials
The post The Difference Between Type A and Type B Pilot Watch Dials appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Longines Debuts the First Non-Limited Spirit Zulu Time in Titanium
Longines has been experiencing significant success in the enthusiast space since their pilot-style Spirit line of watches launched. Over the last few years, they have introduced 39mm variants and a GMT version called the Spirit Zulu Time. Zulu time is a military term that refers to Universal Time Coordinated (UTC). These timepieces, also known as GMT watches, can show a second time zone using a third hand and a 24-hour scale on the dial. In December 2023, Longines partnered with Hodinkee to produce a special version of the Zulu Time in grade 5 titanium, featuring a 39mm case and limited to only 500 pieces worldwide. This special edition bore a striking resemblance to another brand’s popular GMT watch but was significantly thinner and much less slab-sided, which appealed to many collectors. As successful as that model was, Longines did step away from the original charm of the Spirit collection, leaving enthusiasts wanting a grade 5 Titanium GMT watch that was not a limited edition. They have heard the call and have just announced a new 39mm Spirit Zulu Time in this material, which fits right in with all the others in the lineup. Why are we explicitly mentioning the titanium grade used in these watches? In wristwatches, there are generally two types of titanium used. Grade 2 and grade 5, and while they both have the key qualities that make the material special (they are both very light), there is a tangible difference. Grade 2 titanium is commercially pure titanium, which ...
Worn & Wound
You’re Invited to a Stellar Worn & Wound x Tissot Event in NYC!
Greetings, New Yorkers! We’re very excited to invite you to a special event at the Tissot boutique on 5th Avenue. Join the Tissot and Worn & Wound teams to celebrate the launch of a new watch that blends enthusiasm from two unique spaces – watch collecting and space exploration. So, while we can’t share many details of the release, it’s safe to say that it will be…out of this world. Refreshments will be served and there will be plenty of awesome watches to check out. Everyone who attends will be entered to win the new watch at the event, but make sure you stick around through the whole event as you must be present to win. Even if the win isn’t written in the stars, everyone who attends the event will get to leave with a special gift from our friends at Tissot. RSVP HERE The Worn & Wound x Tissot Launch Thursday, August 22, 2024 6:30PM – 8:30PM EST Tissot Boutique | FIFTH AVENUE 666 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10037 For the latest updates and future interstellar adventures, make sure to stay connected through our Weekly Newsletter and follow us on Instagram. The post You’re Invited to a Stellar Worn & Wound x Tissot Event in NYC! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s Affordable Chronograph Tourbillon in Blue “Panda” Livery
A limited edition available only in Europe, the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon “Blue Panda” is another take on TAG Heuer’s value-minded complication. Retaining the familiar Glassbox case, this has an attractive white-and-blue dial with the flying tourbillon at six. Initial thoughts When TAG Heuer released the Carrera Glassbox in 2023, it was well received as a successful attempt at modernising a classic racing chronograph. Although the Glassbox is clearly vintage inspired, it is still an original design. The Blue Panda builds on the appeal of the Glassbox by making it more complication, adding a tourbillon to the mix. Notably, the Blue Panda is the only current variant of the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon with contrast-colour registers, which gives more retro vibes. Although the 42 mm case is slightly bigger than the standard Carrera without tourbillon, the short lugs allow it to wear quite well on various wrists. Priced at €25,200 with taxes, the Blue Panda is priced similar to other versions of the model, and remains a decent value proposition. While it is far more expensive than the affordable chronographs that TAG Heuer is known for, it is affordable for this combination of complications. Though the in-house movement is industrially executed, it is high quality and packaged in the attractive Glassbox case. Another species of “Panda” The stainless steel case is 42 mm in diameter and 14.3 mm in thickness, and retains the signature elements of the Carrera Gla...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind
A limited edition that is classic Cartier in terms of style, the Santos-Dumont Rewind is elegant but whimsically different. The Rewind retains the exact same dimensions of the standard Santos-Dumont “Large” model, but is unique in two ways. The more obvious is the dial, which is carnelian, a brown-red mineral stone with a nuanced colour. Less obvious at first glance is the reversed hour track around the dial that complements hour and minutes hands that track anticlockwise – hence “Rewind”. Initial thoughts The Santos-Dumont Rewind captures the traditional Cartier style, but with a twist. As a result, it’s more than a standard Santos-Dumont, but not too much. Most of its defining elements are not apparent at a distance, so it’s fairly subtle. Everything is just right, and makes for a compelling watch. Although this is the Large model (rather than the Extra Large that I personally prefer), the platinum case has a good heft. The bright colour of the metal also contrasts well with the dark red carnelian dial that reveals interesting shading up close. The grain of carnelian is more subtle than the mineral stones commonly found in watches, particularly malachite and lapis lazuli. This suits the low-key complication well. As for the hands that go backwards, it takes some getting used to. The complication is clearly pointless, but appealing because it has an elegant simplicity that suits the watch. The Rewind costs US$38,400, which is fair enough for a wristwatch w...
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THIS is the Ultimate Tool Watch: Breitling Endurance Pro 44
SJX Watches
Hands On: De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain
Almost a dress watch done in sci-fi style, the most compact version of De Bethune’s trademark model gained a striking new look this year with the DB28xs Purple Rain. Clad entirely in purple – or more accurately, titanium heat treated to purple – the DB28xs Purple Rain is distinctive and striking because of its sheer colour. Though the colour is novel for De Bethune, the watch incorporates many of the brand’s signature design elements, including a “starry sky” dial and the DB2005 movement with a proprietary titanium and white gold balance wheel. Initial thoughts De Bethune didn’t invented flame-blued titanium, but the material has become something of the brand’s signature. It has been used extensively across its product line, arguably so much that it’s not as novel as it was. De Bethune later tried titanium heated to a bronze-gold finish, but that doesn’t have the vivid hue of blue. Titanium that’s been flamed to purple, however, is as vivid as blue. And the finish is still fairly unique, since it has only been applied to the DB28xs Purple Rain as well as a handful of one-off creations. As a result, while the Purple Rain is only a colour variation of an existing model, it is usually compelling because it is both different and striking. Because it’s essentially the same material as blued titanium, purple titanium will likely have the same durability. Like the blued finish, the purple is actually a thin oxide layer on the titanium that’s created by t...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley”
Named after its silver, textured dial, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” is a variant of the longstanding Sport Collection GMT with a sapphire-covered 24-hour bezel. It’s in two-tone green and white inspired by the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi at the end of winter, where the mountain is covered in lush greenery but topped by white snow. In typical Grand Seiko style, the steel case is finished with zaratsu flat polishing. It is equipped with a high-frequency cal. 9S86 running at 5 Hz that is a “true” GMT movement with an independently adjustable local time hour hand. The silvery white texture depicts snow on the ground in the mountain. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko often turns to nature for its dial colours and patterns, with many of its timepieces are named after elements of the nature world, the Spring Drive “Pink Snowflake”. In the case of the SBGJ277, it’s not just the dial, but also the green-and-silver livery of the watch that is “Snow Valley”. Grand Seiko rolls out such model variants and limited editions frequently, too often sometimes, but its offerings remain good value. This also applies to the SBGJ277, which is priced at US$6,800. It is a practical watch with an in-house movement and a genuine GMT function, along with a high level of fit and finish on almost every element; arguably only the bracelet needs to be upgraded, with a micro-adjustment clasp for instance. Featuring an offset crown at four o’clock ...
SJX Watches
Breitling Teams Up with NBA Superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo
Breitling’s latest collaboration is a pair of limited-edition Chronomats conceived together with Giannis Antetokounmpo, the Greek-Nigerian basketballer who plays for the NBA’s Milwaukee Bucks. The entry-level model is the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Giannis Antetokounmpo in stainless steel, an edition of 1,750 pieces. And then there’s the Chronomat B01 42 Giannis Antetokounmpo in 18k red gold that’s limited to 250. Both share the same dial with baton indices, finished in a green reminiscent of the Milwaukee Bucks’ team colours. And NBA superstar himself gets a unique creation: an all-red gold Chronomat B01 42 with the same green dial but with the registers and flange in contrasting white, along with Eastern-Arabic numerals (pictured above). Initial thoughts The Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are essentially identical to the respective standard Chronomat models, save for the dial colour that’s a brighter shade of green, along with the basketballer’s discreet “GA” as the second hands counterweight. The chronograph has the addition of a basketball emblem on the seconds register. The basketball elements in the design are minimal, so the two are a good cosmetic alternative to the standard models, even for someone who doesn’t follow basketball since the sport. That’s especially so since the Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are priced the same as the standard models: the GMT costs US$6,150, while the B01 chronograph is US$42,500 on the red gold Rouleaux brac...
Worn & Wound
Doxa Releases their Second Clive Cussler Themed SUB 300T
Since Doxa’s relaunch in 2001, there have been multiple iterations and limited editions of their classic dive watches. These include contemporary versions with various depth ratings, multiple dial colors, and new case materials. In May of last year, Doxa launched the Sub 300T Clive Cussler, paying tribute to the legendary author and explorer. This model has classic proportions and is made of distressed stainless steel. It has a matching distressed beige dial with a compass rose motif at its center. The case back features inscriptions, specifically the names of shipwrecks and other historical artifacts discovered or surveyed by NUMA, the non-profit agency founded by Cussler. New for 2024, Doxa is releasing the SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler edition as a follow up. Sharkhunter is the name they use to identify their black-dialed dive watches. This watch has the same wonderful details as the previous Clive Cussler homage but with, you guessed it, a black dial. The case is 42.5mm in diameter and only 44.5mm from lug to lug, with a thickness of 14mm. Its trademark cushion case makes this large watch suitable for nearly any wrist size. The Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 powers the watch, which beats at 4hz and has a power reserve of 38 hours. It is also water-resistant to 300 meters, as all SUB 300T’s should be. The Clive Cussler connection began almost 50 years ago when he took a $400-per-month gig at a dive shop after quitting his job as a creative director at an advertisin...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Baltic MR Roulette
With a new take on a classic dial style, Baltic brings back one of their big hits.
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