Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch by Philippe Dufour

Arguably the master of movement decoration, Philippe Dufour is revered for the impeccable finishing of his wristwatches – along with a handful of pocket watches, including the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch that sold in 2021 at Philips for CHF2.33 million including fees. But the first timepieces Mr Dufour made never bore his name on the dial. They were a series of five grande sonnerie pocket watches created for Audemars Piguet (AP) that he began in the late 1970s and completed in 1988. The very first of the five, the Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch no. 1 – by Philippe Dufour for Audemars Piguet – will go under the hammer at Philips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 13 and 14, 2023. (Video courtesy of Phillips) Initial Thoughts Having slowly gone out of fashion starting in the early 2000s, pocket watches tend to go under the radar when set against comparable wristwatches. In 2021, Philippe Dufour’s own Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for more than double his grande sonnerie pocket watch – in the same auction. However, anyone who understands independent watchmaker and Mr Dufour’s work will appreciate the significance of this pocket watch. This not only predates the Philippe Dufour brand, but the series of five watches made for AP was the impetus for him to strike out on his own. Because of what he perceived as deeply disrespectful behaviour by AP executives, Mr Dufour vowed never again to make watches for others after completing the five watches for AP. ...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: James Harden gifts NBA MVP Joel Embiid engraved Rolex Day-Date

Back from Japan and a much needed R&R; week on vacation in Aruba with my family, it is great to return to the Friday Wind Down saddle. Thanks for holding it down Borna! While in any given week there is a fair bit of watch news, this week has really been dominated by Rolex with watch spots … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: James Harden gifts NBA MVP Joel Embiid engraved Rolex Day-Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer

Online watch auctioneers Loupe This have just listed a Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer in an online-only sale that runs from now till May 11. Barely a handful have emerged – one was sold at Phillips Perpetual in London in 2021 – but this example is the first to go under the hammer. The scarcity is of the Double Impulse Chronometer on the secondary market is simply because there are few of them in circulation. Around 50 have been made to date and with about a dozen being produced each year, the wait for an order placed now stands at about eight years. The exceptional demand for the watch is entirely justified, since the Double Impulse Chronometer is arguably the most significant English wristwatch in production today. Consigned by the original owner, this specimen is quintessential Frodsham. Numbered “010800” and delivered in September 2019, this is one of the first examples made, the 13th in fact, according to Richard Stenning, co-owner of Charles Frodsham. More notably, it is an unusual combination of a stainless steel case and white ceramic dial with double cyphers. According to Mr Stenning, this was the first of only two watches with this configuration made to date. The cyphers are an option but arguably crucial since they reference the firm’s history and add to the vintage-inspired styling of the dial. Historically found on Frodsham pocket watches – often engraved on the movement but sometimes on the dial – such cyphers indicated Royal Warrant...

Urwerk Takes the UR100V Back to Basics with New “Magic T”

Urwerk released the UR100 concept to the world in late 2019 with a watch called SpaceTime.  The watch served as a new entry point to the brand, recalling the simplicity of their original 101 and 102 concepts, with an open view to their modern wandering hour carriage design. It was pure Urwerk, and it was also among their most wearable modern watches. The UR100V has matured over the years, with the addition of new materials, colors, and even strap options. It’s a watch that’s proven remarkably adept at expanding its personality in a variety of directions, from the Mayan style ‘Time and Culture’ to the other-worldly P.02 done with Collective Horology. At its core, though, the UR100 is a simple concept, and the latest addition to the collection leans into that simplicity.  The newest UR100V, dubbed the Magic T, gets a monochromatic treatment, presented in full bead blasted titanium from the case to the bracelet. The 3 dimensional dial adheres to the theme as well, with only sparse use of colors to aid in the legibility of telling the time (did I mention that this thing tells the time?). The Magic T is a distillation of the UR100 concept, a near bookend to the original SpaceTime, and an overall cleaner representation of the concept, which at its core, remains unchanged. Time is read via the hand rotating along the minute track at the bottom of the dial (if it can be called that?). The hand itself is attached to one of three hour carriages which house the rotating hou...

Pre-Owned Picks: A Rare Basculante, A Round Santos, And More Classic Cartier

Cartier knows how to design a watch, and these five watches prove it.

Vero Launches the Meridian, a Casual Weekend Watch with a Manually Wound Movement

One of the big hits of the recently completed Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco came from Vero, a brand we’ve been covering for years. The transformation that Vero has made as a company doesn’t get enough coverage. Longtime readers might remember the time we took a look at how Vero was manufacturing watches at their Oregon headquarters, but since that time, the brand has changed their strategy and found their groove with an entirely new aesthetic. In 2021, with the launch of the Open Water diver, Vero made a hard pivot toward outsourcing their manufacturing to trusted Swiss partners, and refocusing the brand on customer service (they now offer a ten year warranty) and shifting the design language into something a little bolder and more colorful. The Open Water and Workhorse Chrono have proven to be durable hits on the microbrand scene, each spawning multiple new references since they made their debuts, and now they’re joined by the Meridian, a handsome manually wound piece that is a completely Vero take on the classic field watch.    Vero characterizes the Meridian as a “weekend watch,” which is borne out in the casual color schemes of the two models that recently launched the collection. First up is the Rambler, a bright blue dial with a red and white outer track, and easy to read black Arabic numerals at each hour. We also have the Rally, which is something of an inversion of the Rambler with its cream colored dial and accents in the perimeter in blue and r...

Vintage Watches: Ten Of The Greatest Missing Watches, Part Two

Since Part One, some of history's missing watches have been found. But from Lennon to Aldrin and even J.P. Morgan, here are 10 watches we're still hoping to find.

New: Panerai Luminor Due goes pastel coloured

Panerai updates their Luminor Due line up with a new series of three pastel dials. The new collection is in 38mm unisex size, and is called the Pastello.

The RZE Endeavour Glacier collection breaks the ice in style

RZE’s best-selling case is now paired with four ice-cold dials. Each colour is inspired by a different glacial region. It’s powered by the Seiko NH35 and made of solid titanium. RZE’s offering of high-tech and capable sports watches is second to none in the microbrand world, especially when you consider their quality versus their affordability. … ContinuedThe post The RZE Endeavour Glacier collection breaks the ice in style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Perpetual Style of the Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327

Black magic: The Chopard Alpine Eagle Japan Limited Edition

Chopard’s Alpine Eagle honours Japan with a blacked-out Shikkoku dial. The sapphire display caseback has also been tinted a dark grey. To further chase simplicity and zen, the date display has been removed. After the Chopard Alpine Eagle was introduced in 2019, putting a contemporary twist on a 1970s design, it quickly became one of … ContinuedThe post Black magic: The Chopard Alpine Eagle Japan Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Maurice LaCroix AIKON Master Grand Date Gets Color-Coordinated with the Technicolour

Late last year, Maurice LaCroix debuted the stealthy Aikon Master Grand Date Black, a tasteful amalgamation of their integrated steel sports AIKON collection and their more refined Masterpiece collection, fittingly dressed in black on black attire. Assisted by the gentle use of white dial accents and emblazoned with an open heart display, the AIKON Master Grand Date Black features a distinguishable off-center dial, grand date complication, and a small through-dial window partially revealing their in-house ML331 movement. It’s most certainly a significant step for the brand in terms of blending their different design languages, but a conservative step in regards to the monochromatic aesthetic. We are most certainly aware that Maurice LaCroix knows how to let loose when it comes to the application of vibrant colors throughout their entire range, and with warmer weather and sunny skies afield, it was only appropriate that ML released a more playful take on their AIKON Master Grand Date. The Maurice LaCroix Grand Date Technicolour comes in four different colorways that taps into the vibrancy and playful use of color in their AIKON #tide collection. Now with a wider color spectrum at their disposal, accompanied by high-end watchmaking at its core and a sport watch build, you can in-arguably make the case that the Grand Date Technicolour touches on all design aspects of the brand. The Grand Date Technicolour retains the asymmetric dial configuration that makes these types of w...

10 favourites from the upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I Auction

To call anything ‘important’ is a matter of subjectivity, especially when you’re talking about luxury watches. That said, anyone who takes a look through the lots of Sotheby’s latest batch from the upcoming Important Watches auction will be dumbstruck. From rarities like the 1970s Heuer Monaco ‘Dark Lord’ to classics such as the platinum Rolex … ContinuedThe post 10 favourites from the upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I Auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Talking Watches: With Tobias Harris, The Philadelphia 76ers Star With An Eclectic Watch Collection

With the NBA Playoffs set to tip off, we look at a collection as versatile as Harris's game.

Business News: Rolex Officially Launches Its Certified Pre-Owned Program In The United States

The program, announced in December, will begin its U.S. rollout at Tourneau | Bucherer this month.

Hands-On: Travel Timing With Timex's Q Three Time Zone Chronograph

This watch is a major value proposition, once you get the hang of it.

Seiko Updates Sharp Edge Series With New 3 Day Automatic Movement

Seiko welcomed the Sharp Edge series back in 2020, and the watch has gone on to welcome some of our favorite Presage watches in the process, with last year’s GMT being a particular favorite. The broad, angular case with a distinctive fall off around the wrist is joined by the asanoha dial pattern to present a wholly unique experience within the Presage range. This week, Seiko welcomes a pair of new references to the Sharp Edge family, which open the dial to reveal a new 6R5J 3 day automatic movement within. The movement echoes the same updates we’ve seen rolled out across the 6R range, providing a small bump to the power reserve.  The new Sharp Edge watches are indeed what you’d call ‘open heart’ designs, with an aperture directly over the balance wheel placed to the 9 o’clock side of the hand stack. It’s not quite that straightforward here, as there is a bridge layered over the view that recalls the very pattern seen on the dial, the asanoha, or ‘hemp leaf’ motif is rendered across the circular opening, adding a bit of visual continuity with the rest of the dial and presenting a slightly more interesting take on the open heart concept. Two dial colors are on offer here: a light option called ​​shironeri (SBP415), which represents unbleached white silk; and a deep blue option called aitetsu (SPB417). The blue dial fades to darker tones at the dial’s perimeter, but both dials are rather dynamic thanks to the inset pattern offering plenty of surfaces...

Hands On with the All New Nodus Unity

I must admit that I have been admiring this LA-based microbrand from afar for quite some time. I promise I will try to avoid the easy pun about taking “Nodus” despite my Dad status and love of cringy, unfunny jokes. Although Nodus watches have been a regular feature on my Instagram feed and at RedBar events, I haven’t had the chance to try them on or examine them closely myself. So when Nodus reached out and offered me a sneak peek at their new Unity line of watches, I jumped at the opportunity. Soon after, my curiosity got the best of me and I asked for a review sample.  After seeing the watch in photographs, I was intrigued by its unique concept and bold use of color. It struck me as distinct from anything else in the Nodus catalog, particularly in contrast to their previous Duality Unity with its dual crown and inner rotating bezel. Still, I had reservations about where a watch like this could fit into my collection. A few days later, it arrived, and the timing couldn’t have been better. I wore it during a sunny Easter weekend and for a few days at the beach, and my initial intrigue quickly turned into fondness. The attention to detail, comfort, and playful color scheme charmed me.  $700 Hands On with the All New Nodus Unity Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Pink/Blue Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 150 Dimensions 36.5 x 43.5mm Thickness 11.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $700 The first...

New: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium

Roger Dubuis adds a new reference in a titanium case with titanium bracelet to their rather extensive Excalibur Monobalancier collection.

Inside Tudor Manufacture: The Pursuit of Mechanical and Industrial Perfection

Tudor, in my estimation, makes watches that are the best value in the under-US$5,000 price segment. In fact, the brand arguably offers the best value proposition in most price segments, simply because its watches have specs, features, and quality that are unrivalled, even at several steps up the price ladder. The brand’s value proposition began in 2015 when Tudor launched its first in-house movement inside the unloved North Flag. But the compelling nature of its watches notwithstanding, Tudor has long suffered from being perceived as a “lesser” Rolex. In fairness, that was probably an apt description of the brand up until the mid 2000s when Tudor began its gradual but determined evolution into an independent brand. The most tangible testament to Tudor’s success as its own brand came online last year, when the Tudor manufacture in Le Locle began operations. The manufacture is the first time ever that Tudor has its own factory. Historically the brand relied on Rolex cases and outsourced movements, and operated from several floors inside the Rolex campus in Geneva. Now Tudor boasts an impressive, no-expense-spared facility that spans a generous 10,642 m2 (about 114,000 ft2), with half of that being workspace, a scale that easily allows for an annual production of up to the mid-six figures. With a roof covered in solar panels and a foundation that stretches deep into the bedrock of the Swiss Jura, the manufacture is a monument to high-quality, affordable watchmaking. ...

Business News: F.P. Journe to Open Boutique in London

Having been the subject of chatter since the beginning of 2023, the F.P. Journe boutique in London is now official. Located at 33 Bruton Street, around the corner from Hermès in London’s upmarket Mayfair district, the store is slated to open in early summer. Although F.P. Journe has been in London almost since its founding in 1999, it was always represented by retailers. Now, as is the case in many other cities, F.P. Journe is bringing things in-house. The brand’s 11th boutique, the new London store joins its long-established outposts in Tokyo, Geneva, and Hong Kong, giving F.P. Journe a major presence in yet another key city. The upcoming boutique at 33 Bruton Street Given the mismatched supply and demand for F.P. Journe watches – it makes about 1,000 watches a year and enjoys demand many multiples of that – the business rationale of the new boutique might be hard to grasp, at least on its face. But given that Mr Journe has already spoken of consolidating his brand’s retail network around the world – word has it that even some boutiques might not be spared – it can be inferred that the London boutique will be receiving some of the inventory that would have otherwise gone to the soon-to-be-closed locations. According to industry insiders, the team for the new boutique has already been hired, with a respected industry veteran slated to take the helm of the store. Regardless of his or her talents, the boutique’s manager will likely need to be adept at managi...

The Style Section: Our Style Editor Picks Her Favorite Met Gala Watches

From Anna Wintour in Patek to Kid Cudi in G-shock. We're romanticizing Met Gala's past in preparation for the "first Monday in May."

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronométre FB 3SPC: a Watch for Today Right Out of History (and possibly another GPHG winner)

The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronométre FB 3SPC represents an entirely new collection and a core part of the Ferdinand Berthoud ideology, impeccable horology based on the history of the brand’s namesake, all built to the highest modern standards. The FB 3SPC is a stunning journey into horological history.

The perfect 6 watch collection by independent watchmakers - ChatGPT edition

This week, we asked ChatGPT to pick a six watch collection again, this time only with watches from independent watchmakers.

Chablis: A Top-Class Cru White Wine That Doesn’t Get The Love It Deserves - Reprise

Why is it that Chablis never seems to get the love it deserves? Why do so many wine lovers, even those who buy and drink Chablis wine, often dismiss it as merely a little sibling of White Burgundy? Ken Gargett considers that no matter where Chablis sits in your perception, it should not be ignored or treated with the contempt of familiarity. Chablis is one of the world’s great white wines.

D.C.’s top three Norqain picks from the shop

We’ve got some exciting news! Time + Tide is now an authorised dealer for Norqain, and we couldn’t be more thrilled. The Swiss brand has been making waves since they burst onto the scene five years ago, with attractive original designs that back up their good looks with some truly proper specs. A fiercely independent … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s top three Norqain picks from the shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Konstantin Chaykin Moscow Comptus Easter Clock: A Mechanical Masterpiece By A Mechanical Mastermind - Reprise

Konstantin Chaykin's Moscow Comptus Easter Clock masterpiece isn’t designed for the wrist but for the mantel. And it presents further evidence that the man Joshua Munchow dubs the “Wonderboy Russian Watchmaker” is one of the greatest watch- and clockmakers in the game today.

In The Shop: Should I Get A Watch Appraisal?

Short answer: yes. But allow us to tell you why!

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Proper Shirt Jacket from STANDARD H, Porsche Believes Analog is Forever, & an Award-Winning Documentary from Patagonia Films

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: STANDARD H Looking For A Proper “Shacket”To Get You Through The Transitional Seasons? Look No Further Than The Standard H Willys Shirt Jacket Whether you’re a devoted podcast consumer, sartorial savant, or abreast of the current happenings within our tiny world that is the watch community, you may have heard of STANDARD H. Founded by Wesley Smith, the brand has evolved into a bi-weekly must-download podcast that hosts entrepreneurs from all sorts of industries, as well as a thriving automotive-inspired apparel brand. Their brand mantra, “For Those With Drive” is a double entendre that speaks to the entire STANDARD H ethos. Via STANDARD H Adding to their evolving collection of apparel such as the Avant T, their flagship everyday t-shirt, and the Targa Florio, a double breasted jacket inspired by British tailoring and Italian style, STANDARD H has recently announced the addition of the Willys Shirt Jacket. Inspired by the Willys military jeep from the 1940s, the Willys Shirt Jacket takes on the utilitarian approach, sporting 2 large button-closure chest po...

Panerai: It’s Not Broken, But Here’s How to Fix It

Panerai watches are unique. There is no denying that they are beautiful and have that Italian design flair. But Raman Kalra thinks that Panerai needs to move with the timer and he has an idea of how Panerai could do that.