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The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet cooks up something special with its Damascus steel case Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet Oct 31, 2022

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet cooks up something special with its Damascus steel case

Steel is a ubiquitous metal within the watch industry, but leave it to Hublot to find a twist that makes the commonly used metal much more interesting. Damascus steel, and its unique appearance, is routinely found in the best kitchen knives in the world. Now Hublot has used the intriguing metal in their new Big Bang … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet cooks up something special with its Damascus steel case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe Oct 31, 2022

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition

Having recently reopened Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), a “concept” store dedicated to independent brands, Singapore retailer Sincere commissioned limited editions from several watchmakers to mark the event, including the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe in purple. Following that, SHH has unveiled another finely decorated time-only wristwatch, the Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition. With Breguet numerals on the front and a natural escapement on the back, the SHH Edition is classical but given a contemporary aesthetic with a gradient mint green. Initial thoughts A store with 19 brands on its premises, SHH certainly has a diversity of watchmaking on offer. But amongst its most technically accomplished time-only watches are the creation of Laurent Ferrier. Seemingly plain-vanilla on the front, the brand’s Micro-Rotor is tells a different story on the reverse. The movement revives Abraham-Louis Breguet’s escapement from two centuries ago, while the automatic winding mechanism is elaborately executed. It is a watch that is easily appreciated by collectors who appreciate history and chronometry. Like most collaborative editions, the SHH edition retains the flavour of the original, but with enough tweaks that it appeals to the target audience, namely watch enthusiasts who like classical design. While many of the dial details are familiar, they are combined in a coherent and restrained manner. The effect is subtle but significant. When I first encounte...

MICRO MONDAYS: Our favourite watches from the past 6 months Time+Tide
Oct 31, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Our favourite watches from the past 6 months

Starting Micro Mondays was originally about shining a light on some of the great independent watchmakers who have been able to be supported through the miracle of crowdfunding and other means. These brands were unbound by design restrictions or the necessity to please established fanbases. Instead they had the freedom to revive a stagnant watch … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Our favourite watches from the past 6 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is green in multiple ways Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Oct 30, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is green in multiple ways

Panerai is a brand that has successfully riffed off the same formula since their inception, producing an impressively diverse portfolio considering the tightly focused design of their watches. That being said, the Luminor and Radiomir cases that their entire offering are based on have become somewhat of a limiting factor, so Panerai had to look … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is green in multiple ways appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Watches & Wonders Becomes More Accessible SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 30, 2022

Business News: Watches & Wonders Becomes More Accessible

In a long anticipated move, the organisers of Watches & Wonders – now the world’s most important luxury-watch fair – have just revealed the 2023 exhibition will be open to the public on its final two days. The event takes place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023, so the public days will be on the first two days of April. Simultaneously, the organisers also debuted the Watches & Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF). According to the announcement, the decision to create the foundation was taken by Rolex, Richemont, and Patek Philippe. Both the public days and WWGF are evidence that the Geneva giants, Rolex and Patek Philippe, now have a lead role in the city’s major watch fair. Historically that position was occupied by Richemont, the luxury group that owns a stable of brands ranging from Cartier to IWC. New titles for Messrs Dufour and Perrin The WWGF will “organise… watch and jewellery exhibitions, in Geneva and beyond… and define the major strategic areas of this ambitious project.” Most notable is the fact the the WWGF will be chaired by Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, while its deputy chairman is Emmanuel Perrin, head of Richemont’s watch division. Though unstated, it is implied that the WWGF succeed the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), which was long the organiser of SIHH and also of this year’s W&W;. Though technically independent, the FHH was regarded by the industry as being dominated by Richemont. Anyone can now walk the ha...

Attention! Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec with their latest creation Time+Tide
Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec Oct 30, 2022

Attention! Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec with their latest creation

What is a field watch? What is a diver? Those two questions can be answered in so many ways, depending on who you ask. Yet, there are instances when the answers to such questions are highly defined and set in stone. Such is the case when dealing with Mil-Spec watches. Mil- Spec, short for military … ContinuedThe post Attention! Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec with their latest creation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Release: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67 Deployant
Oct 29, 2022

New Release: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67

The petite seconde configuration and flat case with stepped bezel is a stylistic homage to vintage timepieces. It echoes the era of fixed lugs monobloc cases that were once made from nickel plated brass. The spade hands and arabic numerals are flanked by a railroad minutes track which matches the classic look. While this may have to do with branding, a simpler logo without the large POLO font could have added more balance to the dial which favors the more subdued look. Otherwise, we welcome Polo Ralph Lauren's new Vintage 67 which acts as an avenue to initiate fashion lovers to the world of watchmaking, starting with the fine handwinding La Joux Perret movement. The watch is priced at US$2,700.

Louis Horror and seconde/seconde/ reveal the spooky skeletons in their closets Time+Tide
Louis Erard Oct 29, 2022

Louis Horror and seconde/seconde/ reveal the spooky skeletons in their closets

Louis Erard is no stranger to collaboration, having released some of their most successful pieces in partnership with the likes of Massena LAB and legends like Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter. Another on the long list of associates is Romaric André of seconde/seconde/, working together to produce a brilliant take on the brand’s regulator design, … ContinuedThe post Louis Horror and seconde/seconde/ reveal the spooky skeletons in their closets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Collector’s Guide: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 28, 2022

Collector’s Guide: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk

Undoubtedly the most unusual wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne – and perhaps the brand’s most intriguing – the Zeitwerk is digital but entirely mechanical. Thirteen years after the first model made its debut and became a landmark in modern watchmaking, Lange has just unveiled the all-new, second-generation Zeitwerk. Gently redesigned but substantially improved, the second-generation model brings the total number of Zeitwerk models to ten (totalling 17 references) from 2009 to now. What follows is a look at every single Zeitwerk reference, including rarely-seen limited editions and a little-known unique piece (save for the unique example never publicly announced by Lange). It’s intended to be be a clear and concise guide covering every single model, one that details the varied functions, decoration, and changes across variants. The latest-generation Zeitwerk movement, still recognisable thanks to the remontoir bridge A brief history Before we dive into the watches, it’s important to understand how the Zeitwerk came along and its significance in modern watchmaking. Like much else created by Lange, the Zeitwerk has its roots in historical watchmaking in Saxony. The Zeitwerk’s digital display takes its cues from the five-minute clock sitting over the stage in the Dresden’s Semper Opera. And like much else in historical Saxon watchmaking, the clock is related to A. Lange & Söhne. The clock maker behind the opera timekeeper, Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes,...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: WatchTime, Windup, a chiming Speedy and Accutron’s 62nd birthday Time+Tide
Accutron s 62nd birthday Watch Oct 28, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: WatchTime, Windup, a chiming Speedy and Accutron’s 62nd birthday

Watch collectors from far and wide gathered in New York City this week for an itinerary packed with watch-related events. You had the RedBar Global Meetup, WatchTime NY, and Worn & Wound Windup fairs all jam-packed into the space of seven days – giving watch lovers in the area lots to do. It may have … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: WatchTime, Windup, a chiming Speedy and Accutron’s 62nd birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Speake-Marin celebrates their 20th anniversary with a gold dial Ripples Anniversary Edition Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Oct 27, 2022

Speake-Marin celebrates their 20th anniversary with a gold dial Ripples Anniversary Edition

When an anniversary comes along for a brand, it is almost obligatory for them to release a special-edition watch – which is great news for us. The Speake-Marin Ripples watch made waves upon its debut as the brand’s first entry into the steel-sports category. In celebration of their 20th anniversary, we now have 50 pieces … ContinuedThe post Speake-Marin celebrates their 20th anniversary with a gold dial Ripples Anniversary Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 27, 2022

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide

To a newcomer, deciphering the world of timepieces can be an intimidating endeavor, and identifying the different types of watches presents a particular challenge. What distinguishes, say, a dive watch from a pilot watch, a quartz watch from a mechanical watch, a dual-time watch from a world timer? What are all those subdials and scales on the dial for? Do I need to change the date on my watch, and if so, how often? In this rundown of the various types of watches, we strive to answer the big questions (and/or link to another article that does).  Quartz vs. Mechanical vs. Automatic While watches vary widely in their styles, genres, and capabilities, they all fall into one of two major categories based on the type of movement inside them. Generally, with a few notable exceptions that we’ll touch upon, a watch is either “mechanical” or “quartz.” Mechanical watches further subdivide into two basic types: manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to periodically wind the watch via the crown to keep it working; and automatic (or “self-winding”), in which the movement’s mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight that swings with the natural motions of the wearer’s wrist. On the other hand, a quartz movement (as explained much more thoroughly in this article), replaces the mechanical movement’s traditional mainspring barrel with a small battery whose electrical charge passes via an integrated circuit into an oscillating tuni...

Baltic Introduces the MR01 “Perpétuel” SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Oct 27, 2022

Baltic Introduces the MR01 “Perpétuel”

Despite being just two years old, Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel has unveiled a string of its own special editions, starting with Baltic in 2020, the year Perpétuel was founded. The retailer has once again turned to the French brand for the third collaborative edition between the two. This time it’s a twist on Baltic’s best-selling micro-rotor wristwatch, the MR01. As is expected, the MR01 “Perpétuel” has all the elements associated with the Arabian Gulf, namely Eastern-Arabic numerals on a green dial. Initial thoughts The MR01 is already appealing in its original iteration, especially considering the price, but the Perpétuel edition includes several details that makes it that much more special. Though a green dial with Eastern-Arabic numerals is no longer novel, it’s uncommon on a watch as affordable as the MR01. The Perpétuel edition brings these design elements to new or young enthusiasts, or anyone on a budget really, a laudable achievement. But it’s also limited unfortunately. Though the run is far more generous than past editions – this is limited to 300 – the affordability means it will have a large audience. Everything all at once The MR01 manages to pack several desirable, old-school design elements into a compact, 36 mm package. Yet it remains impressively clean and fuss free. For instance, the movement is a micro-rotor automatic made by the Hangzhou Watch Factory (we explained the calibre in our MR01 review), hence the affordability. This ...

Five of Zach’s favourites from WatchTime NY 2022 Time+Tide
Oct 27, 2022

Five of Zach’s favourites from WatchTime NY 2022

There is a lot of ground to cover, so I will try to be brief. Last week I attended WatchTime NY 2022, a horological candy shop for those who love all things watches. The participating brands brought some of their latest and greatest watches to get hands-on with, and there were too many I loved … ContinuedThe post Five of Zach’s favourites from WatchTime NY 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’ SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava refs 565 Oct 26, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’

An Austrian independent watchmaker specialising in honest and appealing watches, Habring² has just unveiled its latest jumping-seconds wristwatch, the Erwin “THC School Piece”. Based on the brand’s signature time-only watch, the School Piece is fitted with a two-tone dial that features familiar elements combined in an unusual manner. It sports ever-popular olive green, but only for the chapter ring that features Breguet numerals. Having a 1930s vibe thanks to the dial, the School Piece was unsurprisingly born of a request by a group of Asian collectors with an eye for vintage wristwatches. Initial thoughts Neither overly vintage nor too modern, the School Piece is arguably just right. The design blends details that are common but manages to do so at a coherent manner, resulting in something different that stands out from most Habring² creations – a feat considering the that most of the brand’s limited runs are vintage-inspired watches. The styling should allow the School Piece will speak to enthusiasts across the collecting spectrum. Vintage-watch enthusiasts will appreciate the hints of the Patek Philippe Calatrava refs. 565 and ref. 570. While those who follow modern watchmaking will like the two-tone dial with a prominent green ring that gives the dial more flair than the typical vintage-style watch. And then there are the Breguet numerals that almost everyone likes. While the School Piece is certainly appealing, there are arguably too many iterations of...

How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…) Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Oct 26, 2022

How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…)

Jacob & Co don’t really make watches. What they specialise in is wrist-bound manifestations of the American Dream. The brand’s watches tend to be buried alive in diamonds or tricked out in mind-boggling complications. Sometimes they combine both at the same time. You can’t describe them as mere status symbols. They’re more like flashing neon … ContinuedThe post How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits Oct 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size

There’s really nothing else like the look of a Panerai, such is its visual singularity. A long-time favourite of Hollywood (and real-life) tough guys, it’s a legend among those whose default wristwear leans hard into “bold statement”. In fact, I’d say it’s nearly as recognisable as a Submariner, if less ubiquitous, and frankly, one of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new 5711 successor – the 5811/1G Nautilus – is a bit of a letdown. But it is our fault, not Patek’s Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711 which Oct 25, 2022

The new 5711 successor – the 5811/1G Nautilus – is a bit of a letdown. But it is our fault, not Patek’s

“Anticipation, I suppose, sometimes exceeds realisation,” Amelia Earhart once said. Ever since the final swan song of the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711, which, at times felt like a never-ending Elton John farewell tour, the rumour mill instantly began swirling. Everybody had predictions – a 6711 in titanium perhaps, or a return to a two-handed … ContinuedThe post The new 5711 successor – the 5811/1G Nautilus – is a bit of a letdown. But it is our fault, not Patek’s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar Oct 25, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute was a phenomenal success. Whether that was due to the influx of luscious, colourful dials or the honouring of its 1930s heritage, there was just something about those models that struck a chord with modern audiences. Now, instead of placing safe bets and expanding their colour ranges further, Jaeger-LeCoultre have reached … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina PAM01501 “Kids Horizon” SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Oct 24, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina PAM01501 “Kids Horizon”

Historically a maker of military dive watches, Panerai has since evolved into a maker of distinctively-styled sports watches encompassing complications and precious metal cases. The watchmaker has just revealed an all-gold version of its trademark dive watch as a unique piece conceived for a good cause and a special occasion, the Luminor Marina Automatic PAM01501. Engraved to indicate it’s a one-off creation, something Panerai rarely does, the PAM01501 will go under the hammer during the upcoming charity gala dinner for Kidz Horizon Appeal, a Singapore-based charity that funds medical treatment for children from disadvantaged backgrounds, which will take place on October 29, 2022. The PAM01501 is engraved with “1/1” on the back Initial thoughts The PAM01501 is a metallic olive green – certainly a familiar colour. But keep in mind Panerai was one of the first brand to utilise green as a dial colour, most famously for the Submersible Bronzo a decade ago. This happened well before the current fad for green dials, so Panerai is sticking to historical precedent rather than jumping on the bandwagon. In fact, the green dial and rose gold case brings to mind the original Bronzo, which had a similar palette (before it developed a patina). But the crucial point is that the PAM01501 distinguishes itself by being a unique piece, and one for a good cause no less. For the kids Founded in 2004, Kidz Horizon Appeal (KHA) is a Singapore charity that supports children with chroni...

The changing reality of wearing a watch in New York City Time+Tide
Oct 24, 2022

The changing reality of wearing a watch in New York City

It’s a Saturday morning in New York City. For years, I’ve enjoyed the comfort and privacy of driving around the city as my form of transportation. But this Saturday I want to avoid having to pay the prices of a parking garage. So for the first time in what feels like forever, I’m about to … ContinuedThe post The changing reality of wearing a watch in New York City appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.