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My top five picks from the Ineichen Vintage Wristwatch auction Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Sep 22, 2022

My top five picks from the Ineichen Vintage Wristwatch auction

Running until October 1, the Ineichen Auctioneers Vintage watch auction consists of 72 lots of old-school goodness. It features everything from Patek Philippe to Audemars Piguet and beautiful dress watches to classic sport references. With so much up for grabs, I decided to pick five lots that spoke to me. Five watches, that if I … ContinuedThe post My top five picks from the Ineichen Vintage Wristwatch auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge Time+Tide
Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened Sep 20, 2022

For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge

First released in 1962, the Rado DiaStar Original is one kooky watch design. Recognisable at a glance thanks to its striking, oval case, it exudes a retro-futuristic vibe – the sort of watch you can imagine George Jetson wearing in his flying car. But this quirky veneer disguises it’s horological significance.  The DiaStar is, in … ContinuedThe post For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition Sep 20, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition

The concept of the open heart dial is nothing new, but it’s not necessarily a popular one. For the last few decades, watch snobs have dismissed open heart dials because of how often they appear on lower-end mechanical watches, sometimes as imitations of tourbillons or placed seemingly at random. Although the luxury market tends to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Open Boutique Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Racing watch owners rejoice: Dents driving gloves are a dream come true Time+Tide
Sep 19, 2022

Racing watch owners rejoice: Dents driving gloves are a dream come true

Driving gloves and a racing watch. It’s a combination that gets the blood flowing of any watch collector who dreams of being Steve McQueen in Le Mans or Paul Newman in his actual day to day life. Even I’ll admit the image of slowly tightening your gloves before accelerating off the starting line comes to mind … ContinuedThe post Racing watch owners rejoice: Dents driving gloves are a dream come true appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Sep 19, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies

A compact take on the signature Panerai watch that made its debut in 2016, the Luminor Due is essentially a scaled-down version of the military-inspired original, which allows it to wear easily on smaller wrists. To date, the Luminor Due has remained minimalist, making do without complications save for a date display. But now Panerai gone for something slightly more elaborate with the Luminor Due Luna that has a small seconds and moon phase display featuring a solid-gold moon disc. Initial thoughts I like the compact size of the Due, as well as its more formal styling that allows it to double as a dress watch. Although the original, full-size Luminor is a clean, almost elegant design, its massive size and stark aesthetics means it can only be a military-style watch. The Due, on the other hand, manages to preserve the outline of the original Luminor while being modestly elegant. For that reason, the new Luna is an appealing watch. At just 38 mm wide, it is clearly more wearable, while the engraved, solid-gold moon gives it a bit of sparkle. And the all-gold model comes along with a mother of pearl dial, making it even more luxe. Interestingly, the Luminor Due is largely targeted at female clientele, but models have a masculine aesthetic. That continues with the Luna, which is available in steel with a metallic blue dial, a combination leaves it looking very much like a conventional men’s watch. The dial design is largely classical Panerai, although the proportions seem a...

Book Review: MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years SJX Watches
MB&F; Sep 19, 2022

Book Review: MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years

MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. By Suzanne Wong and William Massena. La Martinière/Abrams; CHF198 for M.A.D. Gallery edition; US$170 for standard edition. To celebrate its 15 years – from 2005 to 2020 – of making extraordinary watches, MB&F; commissioned a 312-page book, MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. In its short foreword, MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser states he did not want a biography since they are “only written at the end of a journey”. Instead, he puts forward the rhetorical question: developing 18 calibres for over 160 products over the period “deserves to be documented, right?” He adds “hundreds of artisans, engineers and watchmakers” came along for the ride and “this is the story I love to tell”. He describes the tome as a catalogue raisonné, adding that it is something “never been done for a watch brand; a world first in the watchmaking industry!” Defined by the New York Public Library, a catalogue raisonné in the visual arts serves as an important tool not just to establish an artist’s oeuvre, and thus record history, but also to aid in authentication by cataloguing all the known works of an artist. The New York Public Library also adds “Essay(s) on the artist” and “Critical assessments and remarks” as desirable content in such a publication. All the watches and all the friends The main part of the book is such a catalogue of 254 pages, divided into three sections: “Horological Machines”, “Legacy Machines”, ...

In City on a Hill, Jackie Rohr understands the sleazy magnificence of a two-tone Rolex Time+Tide
Rolex Am I supposed Sep 18, 2022

In City on a Hill, Jackie Rohr understands the sleazy magnificence of a two-tone Rolex

“Am I supposed to hate Jackie Rohr, because I f*cking love him!” That post on Reddit sums up the general feeling for everyone’s favourite anti-hero in City on a Hill. If you haven’t watched it yet, don’t miss out. Set in the 1990s, this gritty drama hits like The Wire with a Boston accent, unfolding … ContinuedThe post In City on a Hill, Jackie Rohr understands the sleazy magnificence of a two-tone Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The shining stars of the Chopard L.U.C collection Time+Tide
Chopard L.U.C collection Chopard Sep 18, 2022

The shining stars of the Chopard L.U.C collection

Chopard is a brand fighting on many fronts. Their offering encompasses jewellery and watches, with the watch side of the maison covering everything from sporty chronographs and quartz stainless-steel pieces to haute horlogerie sapphire chiming pieces and jewel-encrusted creations. The Chopard L.U.C collection builds on the history of the brand and its founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, … ContinuedThe post The shining stars of the Chopard L.U.C collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #22 “Mechanical Movement Parts” Time+Tide
Sep 17, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #22 “Mechanical Movement Parts”

After weeks of enjoying Zach’s crosswords, I figured what the heck. Time to hijack it like I sometimes do the Friday Wind Down. So today, I’m going to test you all on the most important part of your mechanical watch. And that is its mechanical movement. Let’s see what you got! The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #22 “Mechanical Movement Parts” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in green Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Sep 17, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in green

The world of feminine watches definitely draws the short straw more than it should, but the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One is finally now available in what could be considered the new blue - a dark emerald green. The best way to describe the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in this new verdant guise would be “eye-catching”, with every … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines HydroConquest Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Sep 16, 2022

Longines HydroConquest Buyer's Guide

The Longines HydroConquest features a boldly contemporary design and a sturdy, water-resistant construction that have made it one of the most popular dive watches in its sport-luxury price segment. Since its debut in 2007, the Longines HydroConquest has expanded into a versatile collection with an array of sizes, colorways, and materials to appeal to a wide audience of dive watch enthusiasts. Here are seven things to know if you're looking at adding a Longines HydroConquest watch to your collection. The Longines HydroConquest has its roots in Longines’ very first named collection from 1954. Longines, which derives its name from “les longines,” aka “the long meadows” that surround the Swiss village of Saint-Imier where it was founded, has been making timepieces since 1832. It wasn’t until 1954, however, that Longines began engaging in the modern marketing practice of introducing product families with distinctive names. “Conquest” was the first such name to be registered, on April 3, 1954, with the Swiss Register of Intellectual Property. The original Longines Conquest (reproduced above) was designed as one of the first generation of “modern” wristwatches, i.e., equipped with a highly accurate automatic movement and a water-resistant case that also protected the movement from magnetism and shocks.  Despite its utilitarian elements, the original Conquest was undeniably a dress watch, with a very modest 35mm case; a clean, minimalist dial; applied diamond...

Business News: Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes in Geneva Gem-Setting Giant SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes Sep 14, 2022

Business News: Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes in Geneva Gem-Setting Giant

Little know outside the industry but a key supplier to the biggest watch brands, Salanitro S.A. is Switzerland’s biggest gem-setting and jewellery specialist catering to watchmakers. Owned by its namesake founder until now, Salanitro now counts Patek Philippe as a shareholder. Founded three decades ago by Pierre Salanitro, the company is located a Geneva suburb not far from Rolex headquarters. A discreet but well-connected individual, Mr Salanitro built his company both organically and through acquisitions, creating an enterprise that’s the preeminent jewellery and gem-setting specialist for the watch industry. Today Salanitro far exceeds the competition in scale with annual revenue in the high nine figures and over 230 employees, more than half of them gem-setters. The company covers all the bases when it comes to jewelled watches: it supplies, cuts, and sets gemstones, and also produces components with the three dozen CNC mills on its premises. Gem-setters at work in Salanitro’s facility. Image – Salanitro The art of gem-setting is a manual process that requires deft hands. Image – Salanitro Mr Salanitro’s three children have no involvement in the business, explaining his desire to seek a strategic investor.  “I am very proud and delighted that Patek Philippe has acquired a stake in my company,” says Mr Salanitro, “[The brand is] the ideal partner for securing the firm’s future… [and] continue our activities and guarantee jobs beyond generations....

Business News: Grand Seiko Inaugurates Asia-Pacific Arm SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Inaugurates Asia-Pacific Arm Having Sep 14, 2022

Business News: Grand Seiko Inaugurates Asia-Pacific Arm

Having enjoyed several years of double-digit growth in its biggest markets outside of Japan, Grand Seiko is continuing to hone a marketing and distribution strategy inspired by its Swiss peers. One of the key planks of its brand development has been to vertically integrate its sales channels, with Asia being the latest to join the mothership. Headquartered in Singapore, Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific is a newly established entity that will take charge of sales and marketing of the brand in the region. Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific becomes the company’s third regional subsidiary, after those covering Americas and Europe, both amongst the brand’s most important markets outside of Japan. The Grand Seiko boutique in Place Vendome, Paris The Asia-Pacific division of Grand Seiko no doubt develop the brand along similar lines as its counterparts in Europe and the United States. The senior managers in both the Americas and Europe are Omega alumni, with the head of the American operations also being the brand’s Global Strategy Officer. Unsurprisingly, Grand Seiko has embarked on a game plan centred on brand boutiques in upscale locations as well as limited edition models, mirroring the familiar approach utilised by many of its Swiss rivals. The newly-established Asia-Pacific operation is a joint venture between Seiko Watch Corporation and Thong Sia, the Hong Kong-based company that was the longtime Asian distributor for Grand Seiko (as well as other Seiko brands). It is chaired by Ak...

INTRODUCING: The Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Collection Time+Tide
Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Sep 14, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Collection

Few celebrities hold such strong sway in the public consciousness as the Chairman of the Board, Frank Sinatra. Having dominated both music and film throughout the 1940s to ‘60s, Sinatra’s legacy is firmly cemented through his lasting works as well as his eternal style and demeanour, the latter of which Bulova have captured within the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The ominous history of the Doomsday Clock Time+Tide
Sep 13, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The ominous history of the Doomsday Clock

We’ve covered some pretty strange watches here on Time+Tide, even a bunch which don’t tell the time, but it’s rare that we discuss something that doesn’t physically exist. The Doomsday Clock is a concept and a symbol which has been referenced across plenty of media forms - from 2 Minutes to Midnight by Iron Maiden … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The ominous history of the Doomsday Clock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Insight: The Last Pilot’s Watch – Tutima’s Military Chronograph SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Bremont Sep 13, 2022

Insight: The Last Pilot’s Watch – Tutima’s Military Chronograph

Pilot’s watches, and specifically military-inspired pilot’s watches, are a pillar of the modern, luxury watch industry. Dozens of brands, notably IWC, Breitling, Bell & Ross, Bremont, and Yema, have made military aviation a core theme of their image. So it’s somewhat ironic that today’s elite military pilots don’t wear mechanical watches in the cockpit. A recent survey of pilots at MCAS Miramar, the airbase once home to the prestigious “Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor” programme – better known as TOPGUN – revealed that not a single pilot was wearing a mechanical watch. Instead, military pilots increasingly wear  smartwatches designed specifically for aviators like the Garmin D2 that can monitor oxygen levels and act as a backup navigation system. Modern pilot’s watches made by luxury brands are more like “fan fiction”; a designer’s dream of what might have been. But this wasn’t always the case. Mechanical watches were once state-of-the-art technology and vital instruments for navigators and pilots before being rendered obsolete by quartz technology. This is the story of how the urgency of the Cold War gave the humble balance wheel one last chance to patrol the skies. The jet-shaped counterweight on the IWC Top Gun SFTI calls to mind the airplane-tipped chronograph minutes hand of Cold War-era pilot’s watches like the Tutima 798 A brief history of the pilot’s watch Pilot’s watches have been around for almost as long as there have been p...

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is clean, serene and wears like a dream Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Sep 12, 2022

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is clean, serene and wears like a dream

A luxury, integrated-bracelet sports watch is nothing new. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor – a luxury, integrated-bracelet sports watch that’s executed oh-so well, however, is damn near unique. Zach already waxed lyrical about the charms of the Parmigiani in his tour of NYC while sporting the rose-gold variant, but we couldn’t quite get enough. … ContinuedThe post The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is clean, serene and wears like a dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Orator Sportsman Diver is the resurrection of a forgotten ’60s gem Time+Tide
Blancpain Sep 12, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Orator Sportsman Diver is the resurrection of a forgotten ’60s gem

With a name like Orator, you would expect this brand to have a good story behind it. Thankfully it delivers, as one of watchmaking’s forgotten brands that used to share the same limelight as Rolex and Blancpain. Although it’s likely you’ve never heard of the Orator Sportsman, the brand has been resurrected with the goal … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Orator Sportsman Diver is the resurrection of a forgotten ’60s gem appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Study: Your smartwatch is “more dirty than a toilet seat“ and covered in dangerous germs    Time+Tide
Sep 11, 2022

Study: Your smartwatch is “more dirty than a toilet seat“ and covered in dangerous germs  

See that Apple Watch fastened to your wrist? Well, it may well be a masterful piece of technology that tracks your steps, buzzes you notifications and locates that missing iPhone you drunkenly left in that bar. But according to Dr Lotti Tajouri, Associate Professor of Genomics and Molecular Biology at Bond University on the Gold … ContinuedThe post Study: Your smartwatch is “more dirty than a toilet seat“ and covered in dangerous germs   appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Should titanium watches really be more expensive than the steel equivalent? Time+Tide
Citizen unveiled Sep 11, 2022

Should titanium watches really be more expensive than the steel equivalent?

Titanium watches aren’t anything new by any stretch of the imagination. When Citizen unveiled the world’s first titanium wristwatch in 1970, the lightweight and hypoallergenic properties of the metal were an incredible development for the industry, but a lot has changed in the last 50 years. Titanium has been well and truly democratised in the … ContinuedThe post Should titanium watches really be more expensive than the steel equivalent? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Sep 11, 2022

VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty

The Tambour is Louis Vuitton’s most well-known watch design.  The fashion mega-brand has been slowly but surely establishing itself as a top-tier watchmaker since establishing Le Fabrique Du Temps, their dedicated watch manufacture, in 2014. Since then, several of Louis Vuitton’s watches have earned the Geneva Seal, a rarified standard of Swiss watchmaking reserved for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.