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GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Ulysse Nardin expand their spectrum with new Rainbow releases Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin expand their spectrum Sep 1, 2022

GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Ulysse Nardin expand their spectrum with new Rainbow releases

At Geneva Watch Days, Ulysse Nardin is making a multicoloured splash with the introduction of two sporty new models to their Blast and Diver lines. Ulysse Nardin has long been known for their bold, can’t-take-your-eyes-off-them designs (like the avant-garde Freak series), and these new variants are inspired by the iridescent, rainbow-hued appearance of the silicium … ContinuedThe post GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Ulysse Nardin expand their spectrum with new Rainbow releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: We have the new Tudor Pelagos 39 in our hand! Time+Tide
Tudor Pelagos 39 Sep 1, 2022

VIDEO: We have the new Tudor Pelagos 39 in our hand!

You know that thought experiment you do at night when you’re trying to get to sleep? The one where you’re trying to design a hybrid watch with all your favourite details – not too big, not too heavy, no date window, not too extortionately priced, decent water resistance and so on and so forth? Well, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: We have the new Tudor Pelagos 39 in our hand! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Borna’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days Time+Tide
Aug 30, 2022

Borna’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days

Geneva Watch Days, a trade show that began as a pandemic special, has now expanded way beyond its initial eight founding brands, with more than 20 exhibiting partners for its 2022 edition. I was happy to see so many independent brands showcased at the event, which will become painfully obvious in my top five picks … ContinuedThe post Borna’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos 39 SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Aug 30, 2022

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos 39

In a perhaps unsurprising but very much a welcome move, Tudor has just taken the covers off the Pelagos 39, a scaled-down and slightly dressed up version of its “professional” diver’s watch. Rated to 200 m and just 11.8 mm tall, the Pelagos 39 is essentially a condensed version of its bigger brother. Initial thoughts No doubt in response to feedback, Tudor has been steadily trimming the sizes of its key models. The brand has preserved the key technical features of the watches while reducing the case diameter, dialling back on the chunkiness of its first-generation models. The Black Bay Pro was a smaller GMT and a few months later the Pelagos 39 arrives as the smaller “pro” diver. Besides the smaller diameter, the new Pelagos is also thinner, so it will no doubt be more easily wearable on an everyday basis than its 42 mm counterpart. Wearability aside, the Pelagos 39 is evidently caters to enthusiasts in other ways. It has a symmetrical dial with no date display, while the text above six include a single line in red. It’s difficult not to like the Pelagos 39. The Pelagos 39 also has subtle changes to the dial and bezel finish that differentiate it from the larger models. The brushed finish on those components give it a little bit more shine, avoiding the muted, functional appearance of the earlier Pelagos watches. As is typical for Tudor, the Pelagos 39 is priced at just US$4,400. Considering its build quality and movement, that ranks it amongst the best in cla...

HANDS-ON: Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre in two new Quai des Bergues watches Time+Tide
Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre Aug 30, 2022

HANDS-ON: Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre in two new Quai des Bergues watches

While conglomerate brands from groups like Swatch and LVMH have a large presence, arguably the sector of watchmaking that is drawing the most interest from collectors these days are the independents. Therefore, these brands really have to standout with their products, and they typically do so with novelties that embody the best of horological craftsmanship. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre in two new Quai des Bergues watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Ambassador And Supercoach Patrick Mouratoglou: ‘Little Details Make Big Differences’ Quill & Pad
Zenith Ambassador Aug 29, 2022

Zenith Ambassador And Supercoach Patrick Mouratoglou: ‘Little Details Make Big Differences’

Patrick Mouratoglou morphed from a frustrated player in his teens into today’s perennial supercoach; he is able to deal with the highly complicated psyche and game of an elite competitor just the way a horologist is qualified to finetune a supercomplication. And he is a Zenith ambassador. Learn all about him here thanks to tennis and timepiece writer Miguel Seabra!

Buffy’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition Aug 29, 2022

Buffy’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days

Geneva Watch Days definitely isn’t as grand an affair as Watches & Wonders, however what it doesn’t have in quantity it certainly made up for in quality. Here are my personal top 5 picks from Geneva Watch Days 2022. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo is the perfect platform for high-end collaborations, and … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Balancier Convexe SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Aug 29, 2022

Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Balancier Convexe

Having made its debut in Greubel Forsey’s watches a decade ago, the world time is one of the brand’s distinctive complications with its large titanium globe. While the original iteration of the world time wristwatch came to an end last year with the all-black final edition, Greubel Forsey has taken the covers off its successor, the GMT Balancier Convexe. The three-dimensional world time sphere has been retained, but almost all else has been redesigned on the new model. Beside adopting the streamlined aesthetics of the brand’s bestselling sports watches like the Balancier S2, the display now has local and world time arranged concentrically in a traditional, Louis Cottier-style display in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Despite its complex looks and US$400,000 price tag, the GMT Balancier Convexe is relatively simple for a Greubel Forsey. In fact, it’s the brand’s first world time watch without a tourbillon. As a result, the new GMT is as much about design as mechanics. The GMT demonstrates how GF is implementing its sports watch styling across practically all of its line-up. The GMT has a streamlined “Convexe” case and does away with the asymmetrical bulge traditionally used to accommodate the globe. Because of its curved profile and hidden lugs, Convexe case allows the GMT to pass as a moderately sized watch despite being 46.5 mm in diameter, allowing it to wear smaller. To go along with the sporty case style, the dial has been given a new look. ...

The organic designs of Issey Miyake watches – a tribute Time+Tide
Aug 28, 2022

The organic designs of Issey Miyake watches – a tribute

This edition of Fits and Ticks is dedicated to the late visionary that was Issey Miyake, a truly multi-faceted designer. With his clothing on the forefront of technology-inspired designs through his famous lines such as Pleats Please, Homme Plisse, Bao Bao and, of course, his eponymous main collection line, Issey Miyake carved a legacy that … ContinuedThe post The organic designs of Issey Miyake watches – a tribute appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Looking back at how Hublot came back with a bang at Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Hublot came back Aug 28, 2022

Looking back at how Hublot came back with a bang at Watches & Wonders

Editor’s Note: We’re not going to pretend that Hublot is for everyone – their designs are far too bold and ambitious for that. But any watch lover will always get a kick out of the brand’s new releases which – whether they involve material innovation or unexpected collabs – always demand horological attention. Here’s another look … ContinuedThe post Looking back at how Hublot came back with a bang at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why The A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite Is One Of The Most Historically Important Modern Wristwatches – Reprise Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Aug 27, 2022

Why The A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite Is One Of The Most Historically Important Modern Wristwatches – Reprise

Why is this timepiece important from a holistic view of horological history? The reasons are manifold and include the unheard-of technology nestled within its movement, the audacity of a German newcomer in challenging Swiss status quo, and the symbolic value for A. Lange & Söhne's rebirth as well as the golden age of mechanical timepieces.

The Best Seiko 5 Sports Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Aug 26, 2022

The Best Seiko 5 Sports Watches

The Seiko 5 watch series traces its roots all the way back to 1963, when the Japanese mega-brand introduced the original Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a groundbreaking timepiece that ushered in the emblematic “five attributes” that define the vast collection today. These include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet made of durable materials. Stylistically, the watches run the gamut from dress pieces to field watches to divers, with all kinds of variations in between (the current shorthand descriptions are Sense, Specialist, Sports, Suits, and Street). Seiko 5 watches still adhere to those five principles initially laid out more than half a century ago while still retaining the famously inexpensive price points that have made them so desirable - from under $100 to the neighborhood of $500 for the more exclusive editions. Seiko 5 watches - rebranded in the collection’s relaunch in 2019 as Seiko 5 Sports, despite offering this diversity of styles - have a worldwide fan following, with many JDM (Japan Direct Market) models highly sought after by American collectors due to their scarcity. And for many a budding watch collector of modest means, a Seiko 5 watch is the gateway drug to a full-blown timepiece obsession. Here we spotlight some of our favorites.  SRPC65 “Bottlecap” Reference: SRPC65, Price: $150-$250, Case Size: 45mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Lug-to-L...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Aug 26, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack

Debuted just two years ago, the Streamliner was Moser’s first try at an integrated-bracelet sports watch and it was a success. With its distinctive case and bracelet, the Streamliner is very much a watch that caters to the tastes of today, which has unsurprisingly made it the brand’s bestseller. The latest in the line up, however, is a change in tone. With a dial that’s minimalist as usual, the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack is unabashedly extravagant in 18k red gold from end to end, putting it in stark contrast with the uniformly steel Streamliners that came before. Initial thoughts The best part of the latest Streamliner is its design, which manages to blend several elements in a coherent manner: luxury, mechanical complexity, and of course simplicity. With this new launch, the Streamliner is finally available in gold. While all past models were in steel, the Streamliner Tourbillon is surprisingly attractive despite being so different. In fact, the case and bracelet are arguably made even more compelling in precious metal, since the material lends the watch both heft and elegance, while the glow of the rosy metal brings out the surface finish. In contrast to the extravagant case and bracelet, the dial is spare and contrasts well against the gold case. Coated in Vantablack, an ultra-black substance, the dial is sparsely furnished with plain hour markers and no minute track, making it the simplest amongst the Streamliner collection. That said, the rounded hands a...

S.U.F. Helsinki Debuts Limited Edition for Finnish Formula 1 Driver SJX Watches
Aug 26, 2022

S.U.F. Helsinki Debuts Limited Edition for Finnish Formula 1 Driver

Finnish through and through, Sarpaneva and its affordable sub-line S.U.F. Helsinki often turn to their native land for inspiration, as with the glow-in-the-dark Gothic fantasy of the recent Nocturne. Now S.U.F. is celebrating Valtteri Bottas, a Formula 1 driver nickname the “Flying Finn” who now races for Alfa Romeo. The S.U.F Flying Finn is a pair of limited editions created in collaboration with Mr Bottas. The first is the VB77 in red and white that’s named after the driver’s car number, while the second is the FF-S dressed in white and silver. Both share a partially open dial that’s a first for an S.U.F. wristwatch. FF-S Initial thoughts I’m not generally a fan of watches with racing stripes – and I didn’t warm up to earlier S.U.F watches with stripes – but the Flying Finn aesthetic works. In fact, it’s one of the few watches with an exaggerated racing look that works. The red-and-blue VF77 with its DLC-coated case is especially striking. Mr Bottas with the VB77 The success of the design perhaps because of the partially-open dial along with the “bottle cap” bezel. And the tangible features of the watch also helps. Both models have the typical S.U.F. appeal, namely a highly quality case and well-made dial, along with an affordable price tag. That’s relative, however, as the Flying Finn editions cost about double the entry-level 180 from S.U.F. that contains the same movement but inside a simpler case with a plainer dial. VB77 FF-S Racing time B...

Breguet Facelifts the Classique Calendrier 7337 SJX Watches
Breguet Facelifts Aug 26, 2022

Breguet Facelifts the Classique Calendrier 7337

One of the longest-lived models in Breguet’s line-up, the Classique Calendrier 7337 has been in the catalogue since the 1980s before being revamped in 2009 to give the model its current proportions. Now Breguet has given the 7337 a gentle cosmetic makeover with a redesigned dial. Despite changing none of the fundamentals, the new dial gives the 7337 a distinctly different look that is amongst the most modern in the brand’s Classique collection. Initial thoughts The new 7337 modernises a longstanding model in Breguet’s lineup, one that was originally inspired by pocket watches the brand made in the 19th century. The redesign certainly succeeds in giving the 7337 a more contemporary flavour, so anyone who finds the original design overly old fashioned will appreciate the facelift. However, the new look loses some of the classical elegance that defines Breguet in my opinion. And it also loses the quirky elegance that was characteristic of the original dial layout. Design aside, the new 7337 is very much identical to the earlier model in terms of movement and construction, which means the quality is excellent, as is typical of Breguet. Considering the quality of build, materials – the guilloche dial for instance is solid gold – and the historically-significant brand name, the new 7337 is a reasonably priced proposition at US$43,000, which is identical to the earlier version and unchanged for several years. Breguet pocket watch no. 3833, c. 1823 Symmetrical, mostly De...

INTRODUCING: The new Longines Master Collection in 34mm Time+Tide
Longines Master Collection Aug 26, 2022

INTRODUCING: The new Longines Master Collection in 34mm

I recently wrote an article about the best 34mm watches that anyone can wear, and although the marketing is mostly feminine-orientated, I believe that the new additions to the Longines Master Collection could well be another option. The new 34mm size presents a great option for those who love classic proportions, and perhaps want something … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Longines Master Collection in 34mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Delma Introduces the Quattro Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Seiko s many Prospex dive Aug 25, 2022

Delma Introduces the Quattro Diver’s Watch

A small, family-owned brand that focuses on affordable sports watches, Delma already has a half dozen-strong lineup of dive watches, but its latest is certainly the most novel. Rated to 500 m, the Quattro is a chunky dive watch with an unusual feature: the case module can be detached from the lugs and installed on a decompression plate. Initial thoughts Chunky dive watches are common across a wide range of the price spectrum, but most so at the affordable end. So the latest from Delma seems like yet another player on a crowded field. But the Quattro is interesting in a few respects. For one, the wide bezel and recessed crown give it an unusual enough look that it stands apart from the competition. Then there’s main attraction, a bayonet mechanism that allows the watch to be installed on a decompression plate. It’s questionable whether this has much functionality for a diver, but it does make the Quattro different. But detachable case notwithstanding, the Quattro is pricey for a watch powered by a Sellita movement. Seiko’s many Prospex dive watches are about a quarter less expensive, while Sinn’s ultra-robust U1 is only slight more expensive. Three ways Massive at 44 mm wide and 15.3 mm high, the case of the Quattro locks into a frame with the lugs via a bayonet-lock mechanism. A tiny sliding button on the side of the case releases the locking mechanism, while the frame is essentially a milled steel ring with the lugs at each corner. The release button is next to th...

The Baume & Mercier Hampton embodies Art Deco sophistication Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Aug 25, 2022

The Baume & Mercier Hampton embodies Art Deco sophistication

Often you’ll hear of a watch that stands out from the crowd, does something novel or makes a splash in its category. The Baume & Mercier Hampton takes a different approach, however. By virtue of its Art Deco-inspired, architectural cases, they look to be the perfect everyday watch, without evoking excess excitement or attention. Backed … ContinuedThe post The Baume & Mercier Hampton embodies Art Deco sophistication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Delma Quattro is a deep-dive special with plenty of reef cred Time+Tide
Aug 25, 2022

The Delma Quattro is a deep-dive special with plenty of reef cred

Delma brings back the Quattro, originally presented in the 1980s and having garnered significant popularity in the US market, now upgraded with modern materials and an automatic movement. But the new Delma Quattro aims to be more than just a run-of-the-mill dive watch, with specs worthy of plenty of reef cred. No-nonsense diver’s layout Round features … ContinuedThe post The Delma Quattro is a deep-dive special with plenty of reef cred appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is a new official Rolex Supreme watch really incoming? Time+Tide
Rolex Supreme watch really incoming? Aug 24, 2022

Is a new official Rolex Supreme watch really incoming?

The biggest buzzword in the watch world these days is “hype” – and nobody does hype better than New York-based streetwear brand Supreme. While their signature colour is red, everything they touch seems to turn to gold. While their own goods are immensely popular around the world, Supreme has engaged in all sorts of collaborations … ContinuedThe post Is a new official Rolex Supreme watch really incoming? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display Time+Tide
Hamilton s digital darling has Aug 23, 2022

Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display

First released in a gold and red variant echoing the 1970s original, the PSR has seen numerous iterations over the last two years. We covered two blacked-out models at the start of the year, one of which had close ties to another reboot – the Matrix franchise. The new Hamilton PSR with a green hybrid … ContinuedThe post Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton changed my perception of openworking Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton changed Aug 23, 2022

How the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton changed my perception of openworking

The human brain is a curious thing. Having written many a review and introducing post, I feel like I’ve become increasingly more selective about the type of watch I really like. While my interests evolved, one constant has been my aloofness towards skeletonisation. Then the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton happened, and completely blew me … ContinuedThe post How the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton changed my perception of openworking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret take on Swiss giants Time+Tide
Aug 22, 2022

Movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret take on Swiss giants

I’m fairly certain that the E, T, A, 2, 8 and 4 keys on my keyboard have faded more than others. Despite their claims of no longer supplying off-the-shelf movements, ETA still has a significant stronghold on Swiss movement manufacture, partly due to supplying the Swatch Group. This makes it incredibly difficult for any newcomers … ContinuedThe post Movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret take on Swiss giants appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Farer’s star keeps rising – these 5 watches from the past year show why Time+Tide
Farer s star keeps rising Aug 22, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Farer’s star keeps rising – these 5 watches from the past year show why

It’s unclear as to when you should stop referring to a company as a “microbrand”, but the conundrum also brings a sense of sheepish pride. Farer’s growth has been exponential in the past few years, with their command of colourful yet classy releases helping to sell out almost all of their releases cross a stream … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Farer’s star keeps rising – these 5 watches from the past year show why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Game recognises (wrist) game: The NFL’s elite quarterbacks and their watch collections Time+Tide
Aug 21, 2022

Game recognises (wrist) game: The NFL’s elite quarterbacks and their watch collections

With autumn just around the corner, it’s time for America’s favourite sport to start ramping up again. The NFL preseason is already under way, and along with the excitement of the game on the field, we at Time + Tide are looking forward to the new season’s wrist game from the league’s top quarterbacks. Football’s … ContinuedThe post Game recognises (wrist) game: The NFL’s elite quarterbacks and their watch collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.