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The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak – Feb 2, 2024

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I

Novel ways of telling the time or exhibiting the movement have long been the focus of the avant-garde horologists. Independent watchmakers like Ressence or Urwerk have built their brands on doing away with conventional hands. Such idiosyncratic approaches to watchmaking challenge the traditions of horology, making for a more interesting horological landscape. Even before Urwerk introduced the pioneering three-dimensional cubic hour display in 2005, there was the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Launched in 2001, the Freak literally changed the face of watchmaking by transposing the movement into the dial. Two decades after its launch, the Freak is still regarded as a landmark for its audacity, from both aesthetic and technical perspective. [This story covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement, while Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] The origins The beginning of the Freak lay in 1997, when Carole Forestier-Kasapi, then a young and talented movement designer who only recently graduated from technical college, won the Prix de la Fondation Abraham-Louis Breguet, a contest conceived to mark A.-L. Breguet’s 250th birthday that sought to recognise watchmaking ingenuity. Now the head of m...

The Bulova Lunar Pilot Gets a New (Actually, 4.5 Billion-Year-Old) Meteorite Dial Worn & Wound
Bulova Lunar Pilot Gets Jan 31, 2024

The Bulova Lunar Pilot Gets a New (Actually, 4.5 Billion-Year-Old) Meteorite Dial

Among watch brands, Omega won the race to the moon–it also won the PR war, and now whenever someone uses the term “moon watch,” your mind invariably turns to the Speedmaster. But while the Omega Speedmaster may have been the first watch to the moon, it isn’t the only one. In 1971, Apollo 15 mission commander Dave Scott became the seventh man to walk on the moon, and when he looked at his wrist to check how long he’d been out of the lunar lander, it was a Bulova that gave him the time. Forty-five years later, Bulova released a re-creation of this watch: the Lunar Pilot. Now, they’ve leaned into the space angle even more, with the Lunar Pilot Meteorite, which, as the name suggests, features a dial made of actual space rock. The Lunar Pilot was built to NASA’s specifications and, as such, bears some superficial resemblance to the Speedmaster as a three-register chronograph with a tachymeter. (Coincidentally, the Lunar Pilot Meteorite was also released shortly after the latest Dark Side of the Moon Speedmaster from Omega, which features a dial made to look like the lunar surface.) But a more rounded and slightly larger case–43.5 mm versus the 42 mm of the Speedmaster–with slim, rectangular pushers that span from the crown to almost the lugs gives the Lunar Pilot a unique silhouette. The meteorite model features a dial crafted from a 4.5-billion-year-old meteorite that Bulova promises gives each of the 5,000 limited edition watches a unique crystalline pattern...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Solargraph 34 mm SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Jan 29, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Solargraph 34 mm

Following the original Aquaracer Solargraph two years ago, the affordable solar-powered dive watch now debuts in a more compact format with the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph that has a 34 mm case containing the solar-powered TH50-01. Initial thoughts The Aquaracer has long been one of TAG Heuer’s main entry-level offerings. For several years, however, the models were mostly big or bulky, until the brand released the more wearable and solar-powered 40 mm model two years ago. The new Solargraph maintains the familiar design and solar-powered movement but with a smaller case. With a diameter of 34 mm, this model leans towards being a women’s watch, so an in-between or “mid size” model of 37 mm or 38 mm is arguably still missing. Nevertheless, the vibrant dial offerings – that importantly do not reveal the solar panels – are noteworthy and hopefully indicate more variety is coming to the larger model. With prices starting at US$2,150, the value proposition  is reasonable, given the execution of the case and dial, and the innovative solar calibre (at least for a Swiss brand). As an aside, Swiss-made solar-powered movements are relatively uncommon, making this a relatively unusual proposition. While there have been a handful of solar-powered models from Cartier, they haven’t made it to the market in significant numbers, perhaps due to difficulties in mastering production on a large scale. In contrast, Japanese brands like Citizen easily produce several mil...

Watch Design And Manufacturing - Things That Have Improved And Things That Haven’t Fratello
Jan 29, 2024

Watch Design And Manufacturing - Things That Have Improved And Things That Haven’t

One of the many things I love about a good watch is its permanence. A properly built watch, well maintained, will not expire. This has been the case for decades now, but it is particularly evident these days through its contrast with our quick-consumption habits. However, although watches have long been made to last, some […] Visit Watch Design And Manufacturing - Things That Have Improved And Things That Haven’t to read the full article.

Watch Thefts: The London Met Police Are Turning The Tables On Watch Robbers Fratello
Jan 27, 2024

Watch Thefts: The London Met Police Are Turning The Tables On Watch Robbers

Over the last several years, the dangers of walking around with an expensive, known watch in a large city have received a lot of attention. In London, armed moped-riding gangs, machete-wielding assailants, and other criminals have all made news with dramatic footage of watch thefts. Well, now the tables are being turned by the long […] Visit Watch Thefts: The London Met Police Are Turning The Tables On Watch Robbers to read the full article.

Farer Adds a Pair of New References to the Aqua Compressor Range, Benefitting a Good Cause Worn & Wound
Farer Adds Jan 26, 2024

Farer Adds a Pair of New References to the Aqua Compressor Range, Benefitting a Good Cause

Farer’s Aqua Compressor collection has long been a favorite in the brand’s collection, first making an appearance in 2017. Now, seven years on, the UK-based watchmakers have reimagined this line with two new colorways to sit alongside the classic Black model: Endeavour Ocean White and the Hecla Carmine Red. To build this new iteration of the Aqua Compressor line-up, Farer made some distinct changes that allowed for a lighter, and more durable, timepiece. The case, constructed from grade 2 titanium, is exceptionally light at 62g. Measuring 41mm in diameter, with a 45mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 12.5mm, the case combines brushed and polished finishes. The watch boasts a 2.2mm double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, achieving a depth rating of 300m through gasket compression under water pressure. Powering the Aqua Compressor is the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, elaboré grade, with 26 jewels, a 4Hz beat rate, and approximately 38 hours of power reserve. The rotor features a bespoke wave design visible through the sapphire exhibition case back. The Endeavour Ocean White introduces a fully lumed dial and bezel using Grade X1 Super-LumiNova for optimal low-light legibility. The stark white surfaces with black detailing provide high contrast and readability. The Hecla Carmine Red, the boldest model, features a deep red dial and an integrated rubber strap, emphasizing practicality with Lumicast ceramic numerals and Super-LumiNova accent...

Fears and Topper Jewelers Team Up for a Tribute to Winters in Northern California Worn & Wound
Fears Jan 19, 2024

Fears and Topper Jewelers Team Up for a Tribute to Winters in Northern California

It’s hard to think of Fears as anything other than a quintessentially British watch brand. They were an early member of the British Watch & Clock Makers Alliance, and the brand has a long and proud history of making watches in the UK. They’ve also leaned into creating limited editions that trade on British culture, like the Jubilee Edition version of the Brunswick that popped up in 2022. So their latest effort, a second collaboration with California based Topper Jewelers, is perhaps a bit surprising. But it’s reflective of the fact that in just a few short years since Fears was formally relaunched, they’ve achieved a massive footprint for such a small brand, and have landed a worldwide following.  The Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Series II is a small collection of four watches with 25 examples made of each variant. It’s an expansion of the first collaboration between Topper and Fears, which consisted of two limited edition variants. The premise behind this collection is that each of the four dials reflect a different aspect of the natural beauty of Northern California winters, and each, naturally, displays the time on a “California” style dial, a mix of Roman and Arabic numerals.  Each dial is a whimsical take on Northern California nature, and reflects a region with a huge variety of beautiful places to explore, even in the cold winter months. The “Whiteout” is, you guessed it, white, with a stamped guilloche texture and lacquer coating that is me...

#TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch Fratello
Victorinox Knife Watch Even though Jan 18, 2024

#TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch

Even though it feels like wearing a bar of chocolate on your wrist, the Sicura Safari knife watch is a pure wonder. It had been a long time since I put it on my wish list, and I finally got one. I really thought it would be much easier to find it… I was wrong. […] Visit #TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch to read the full article.

Introducing – The Seiko Prospex King Turtle Black Series SRPK43 Monochrome
Seiko Prospex King Turtle Black Jan 11, 2024

Introducing – The Seiko Prospex King Turtle Black Series SRPK43

As we’ve seen recently with the attractive Diver GMT Arctic Ocean SPB439, there’s more to Seiko’s Prospex collection than just classic models. Black Series, PADI editions or Save the Ocean are some of the recurring sub-collections that have long been offered by the Japanese manufacturer. Today, Seiko adds a new model to its range of blackened […]

Business News: New Faces at LVMH Watches, with Frédéric Arnault Taking Charge SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Jan 5, 2024

Business News: New Faces at LVMH Watches, with Frédéric Arnault Taking Charge

LVMH has just made official the long expected management reshuffle at its watch and jewellery division, with Frédéric Arnault named chief executive of LVMH Watches. Taking over from Mr Arnault as chief executive of TAG Heuer is Julien Tornare, who previously had the same role at Zenith. And replacing Mr Tornare is Benoit de Clerck, who was formerly the chief commercial officer at Panerai. Effective from the start of 2024, the management reshuffle at LVMH will likely be the first of several such moves across the industry over the next 18 months resulting from long-serving bosses retiring and a slowing market. New faces and new directions? Mr Arnault takes on a newly-created role that marks the beginning of the LVMH Watch Division – watches and jewellery were previously grouped together – which might mean more activity from the luxury giant’s trio of watch brands. He will report to Stephane Bianchi, the head of the LVMH Watches & Jewelry Division that also includes Bulgari. Mr Bianchi was reputedly recruited by LVMH owner Bernard Arnault to mentor the junior Arnault, and the pair have risen through the ranks of LVMH in tandem. Though the watch division is one of the smallest in the LVMH stable, Frédéric Arnault brings clout to the job, by virtue of both his name and experience. With a technical and quantitive background – he has a degree in applied mathematics – Mr Arnault raised the level of technical and industrial capabilities at TAG Heuer. Amongst other thi...

Introducing – Garrick Makes the Jump with the S2 Deadbeat Seconds Monochrome
Garrick Jan 5, 2024

Introducing – Garrick Makes the Jump with the S2 Deadbeat Seconds

Traditional watchmaking is at the heart of British watchmaking institute Garrick. Ever since the brand’s foundation in 2015, the goal has been to rekindle the British style of mechanical watchmaking. Watchmaking in Great Britain has huge historical significance thanks to visionary people like Thomas Mudge, John Harrison, and many others. For Garrick, things have long […]

Ace Jewelers and Frederique Constant Team Up for a Limited Edition Highlife Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Team Up Jan 1, 2024

Ace Jewelers and Frederique Constant Team Up for a Limited Edition Highlife Worldtimer

Ace Jewelers, based in Amsterdam, has carved out a reputation for themselves as creators of some of the best limited edition collaborations between watch brands and retail partners. Yes, this is a category that has been growing steadily over the years, but it’s worth pointing at that Ace has been at it for a long time, well before the watch market reached the state of collab hysteria that we currently find ourselves in. Many collectors are probably aware of their regular limited releases with Nomos (they’ve done six, and they always sell out very quickly) but they’ve expanded their portfolio this year, introducing collaborations with Elka and Nivada. Their most recent LE introduces another new brand into the fold, Frederique Constant, with a version of their Highlife Worldtimer that draws on aesthetic cues established in earlier Ace releases.  The Highlife Worldtimer remains one of the more compelling Frederique Constant references. The Highlife platform feels refreshingly contemporary (even though it’s based on 1970s design cues) compared to what we often think of when we picture a Frederique Constant in the mind’s eye. If your impression of the brand is that of a maker of watches in a more classical, dressier, and simply old-fashioned style, than the Highlife, a sleek integrated bracelet sports watch, is almost transgressive. And it’s proven to be a worthy canvas for Frederique Constant’s not-so-secret weapon: affordable complications. The Worldtimer, of c...

T+T10: A week of Studio events and three boutique editions to celebrate our 10th anniversary Time+Tide
Dec 30, 2023

T+T10: A week of Studio events and three boutique editions to celebrate our 10th anniversary

Ten years. A decade. 69 years, in dog years. That’s how long Time+Tide has been going. To celebrate this milestone, We. Are. Going. To. Party. For Aussies, this means a ‘Big Day Out’ X 5 (or a week-long Lollopalooza or Glastonbury if you don’t know the reference) in our Watch Discovery Studio in Melbourne, Australia. … ContinuedThe post T+T10: A week of Studio events and three boutique editions to celebrate our 10th anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 22, 2023

Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches

Deck the halls with straps and spring bars! Well… maybe. ‘Tis the season for giving and you may be wondering if you should gift a special someone their first timepiece. It just so happens that gifted watches can be surprisingly controversial. It doesn’t seem that a token of affection for someone in your life, especially around the holidays, would be complicated. Yet, type “watches as gifts” in your favorite search engine, and you’re sure to see long lists of debates on this topic. The rationale ranges from cultural superstition to practical concerns about preferred tastes and styles. It’s certainly worth considering your position on these perspectives before parting with one of your own watches or diving into a purchase on behalf of a loved one. However, I’m here to provide some personal insight into this conversation and perhaps convince you to take a chance on the prospective horologist in your life this season. My collecting journey began just over two years ago when I received a hand-me-down watch from a friend. I was, then, a graduate student unaware of the watchbox-free counter space I was taking for granted. I hadn’t critically considered watches before, but knew I was drawn to material “stuff.” My apartment was filled with hundreds of books I’d accumulated over the years along with MOLLE-paneled backpacks, knives, sports equipment, and various trinkets I had used (or might one day use) in my adventures. I gravitated toward things I knew were...

Missed Review: The IWC Mark XVII Worn & Wound
IWC Mark XVII I’ve had Dec 12, 2023

Missed Review: The IWC Mark XVII

I’ve had an admiration for IWC’s watches for a long time, and have owned multiple Pilot’s Chronographs and an Aquatimer over the years, but until recently I’d never spent a significant amount of time with a watch in their storied Mark series. These simple pilot’s watches are core to IWC’s history and the perception of the brand, and historically represent an entry point into the catalog for collectors. Die hard IWC fans have long debated the “best” of the Mark watches. Head over to any internet forum or comments section where watches are discussed amongst enthusiasts, and you’re certain to find people debating the finer points of date window placement, case thickness, and diameter across the breadth of Mark watches over the years.  I acquired a Mark XVII from a local collector friend recently. This is a watch I’ve experienced on a nearly monthly basis at watch meetups over the last few years, and I’ve always said to this friend: Let me know if you ever decide to sell it. We all have a watch like this in our orbit, right? There might be an actual commandment against coveting, but in this hobby it’s fairly normal to stake a claim for something you want that a friend has in their possession. Well, we reap what we sow. Said friend decided to let his Mark go, and after some (internal) deliberation, a deal was struck, and I quite unexpectedly owned one of the objectively strangest watches IWC has made in the last few decades.  The thing is, the Mark wat...

A Watchmaker’s Technical Look at the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire: A Dual-Balance Watch with a Difference – Reprise Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire Dec 12, 2023

A Watchmaker’s Technical Look at the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire: A Dual-Balance Watch with a Difference – Reprise

The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire has captivated everybody with the mesmerizing appearance of its twin balances and the unusual, long, sinuous, grey spring gently oscillating along the middle of the watch. 'The Horological Journal' editor and watchmaker Justin Koullapis asks the question, "Does it live up to the hyperbole?"

Hands On: the Jack Mason Strat-o-timer and Hydrotimer Worn & Wound
Dec 5, 2023

Hands On: the Jack Mason Strat-o-timer and Hydrotimer

I have long believed and said before, on this site and elsewhere, that we are living in the golden age of being a watch enthusiast. As time has passed, the quantity and quality of selection at accessible price points is remarkable. Alongside the influx of collectors are new brands catering to every taste and budget, and therein lies the challenge: how do watch companies stand out and make lasting names for themselves with tool watches in the crowded sub-thousand dollar segment? Texas-based (Dallas represent!) Jack Mason claims to have answers with two of its most prominent models, the travel-ready Strat-o-timer GMT and more recently-released Hydrotimer dive watch. A closer look and hands on provide clues to how these references can set themselves apart from one another and their competition today. Cases and Bracelets In a clever move, Jack Mason has decided to utilize the original Strat-o-timer case as the foundation for the Hydrotimer. The turtle-esque cushion style cases measure 40mm wide, 47mm lug-to-lug, and 13mm thick with screw-down crowns. Beyond the obvious economic and manufacturing benefits of sharing a case, this allows the brand to have a recognizable and consistent silhouette across its product lines. Initial impressions of the cases and bracelets are that they are substantial and are of high and obvious quality, especially for the price. In particular, the edges between the brushed and polished surfaces of the case are well-defined and well done. The toleranc...

Book Review – The Polerouter Book, Celebrating the History, Design and Diversity of the Iconic Universal Genève Watch Monochrome
Universal Genève Dec 4, 2023

Book Review – The Polerouter Book, Celebrating the History, Design and Diversity of the Iconic Universal Genève Watch

While the Polerouter by Universal Genève has long been a favourite watch among collectors, its extensive production in various executions has made it accessible for enthusiasts to discover rare or low-production models. However, with the rising popularity of the watch among new collectors, the landscape is evolving, and the thirst for information is growing. To […]

Six Unique Creations from Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers | In Conversation with Christian Selmoni Revolution
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers | Nov 30, 2023

Six Unique Creations from Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers | In Conversation with Christian Selmoni

During Dubai Watch Week, Wei and Christian Selmoni, Style and Heritage Director of Vacheron Constantin, traveled to the desert to unveil six new creations under the Maison’s Les Cabinotiers program. Vacheron Constantin is renowned for its long-standing tradition of crafting bespoke timepieces and releasing an annual collection of truly exceptional and one-of-a-kind creations. This year, Vacheron […]

Don’t Miss These 5 Excellent Talks from Dubai Watch Week Quill & Pad
Nov 26, 2023

Don’t Miss These 5 Excellent Talks from Dubai Watch Week

One of the best things about Dubai Watch Week are the presentations, debates, and talks in the Horology Forum. These cover a very wide range of topic and are usually 45-minutes long with time for audience questions at the end. Here are five that Ian Skellern particularly enjoyed that will hopefully both entertain and educate, as well as give you an idea of the types of diverse topics covered.

The New Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces a New Luminescent Composite Case Material Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces Nov 21, 2023

The New Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces a New Luminescent Composite Case Material

I’ve long been on record as an appreciator and fan of the wilder designs from Bell & Ross. Few watch brands, in fact, have a wider design purview than B&R;, which has fairly traditional aviation inspired watches at one end of the spectrum, bronze skull watches on the other, and their standard square case instrument watches right in the middle. The LUM series, an ongoing collection of watches that use luminescent material in a manner that can only be described as Maximalist, sits somewhere near the skulls, I think. Watch enthusiasts, of course, are notable in that we tend to love inventive applications of lume, but bold designs centered around the stuff still feel fairly niche. The new BR-X5 Green Lum takes the brand’s experiments with lume to a new level, giving the case itself the full lume treatment.  Seeing the press release for this watch, I knew immediately that it was destined to be a new object of obsession for me, perhaps not unlike my beloved Multimeter. It takes the still relatively new BR-X5 platform, the brand’s most contemporary and forward looking case design, and gives it a visual and material transformation via the brand’s LM3D composite. This material is made from quartz fibers which are completely photoluminescent, giving off a pronounced green glow. The case is a combination of this material and DLC coated titanium, which effectively acts as a shell with large pieces of LM3D at the top and bottom of the case. The dial is matte black and serves to...

Seiko Debuts a Smaller, Thinner Prospex Marinemaster SJX Watches
Longines Nov 20, 2023

Seiko Debuts a Smaller, Thinner Prospex Marinemaster

Seiko has remade its high-end dive watch with a new, slimmer movement and consequently more compact watch. Still known as the Prospex Marinemaster, the new model is available in three variants (SJE097, SJE099, and SJE101), all sharing a design heavily influenced by the brand’s first-ever dive watch, the “62MAS” from 1965. Initial thoughts Marinemaster models long been solid but chunky watches, with examples including the Hi-Beat 36,000 limited edition or the forest green model from 2021. A more compact iteration enhances its appeal, especially with the recent popularity of smaller, vintage-inspired dive watches. The “62MAS” model from 1965. Image – Seiko The design still echoes the original 62MAS, particularly in the dial and bezel layout. However, the new model, especially the light blue variant, gains a more contemporary feel with the horizontally striped dial along and the engraved markings on the bezel. The patterned dial easily brings to mind other sports watches, so it does seem a bit derivative, but Seiko’s position as a maker of dive watches is strong enough that this still looks and feels like a Seiko. The latest Marinemaster is priced at US$2,800, reflecting Seiko’s gradual upmarket move over recent years. This places it squarely within the mid-tier dive watch segment also occupied by brands such as such as Doxa or Longines. While it remains a compelling option at this price, it is no longer such a clear value proposition relative to the competit...

New: IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 AMG and Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One™ Team Deployant
IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Nov 16, 2023

New: IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 AMG and Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One™ Team

IWC Schaffhausen releases the latest iteration of their Pilot’s Watch, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41. The Pilot’s Watch now comes with tachymeter scales dedicated to it’s long time motorsports partners AMG and the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team. The AMG variant in Titanium and the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team in their proprietary Ceratanium®Read More

A new Kurono Chronograph Shows How the Brand Develops New Refinements with Each Release Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo could nearly break Nov 14, 2023

A new Kurono Chronograph Shows How the Brand Develops New Refinements with Each Release

There was a time not too long ago when news of a new watch from Kurono Tokyo could nearly break the internet. OK, that’s an exaggeration, but as the brand was building up a head of steam, it felt like loads of hype accompanied every new announcement. This was the peak of pandemic era watch speculation, and Kurono was in the middle of it. Over time, the frenzy has cooled and Kurono announcements are no longer the object of such intense scrutiny. I get the sense that Hajime Asaoka and his team are just fine with that – this is a brand that has instituted layers of “anti flipping” safeguards to their ordering process, after all. But a curious thing is happening: as the hysteria for Kurono’s limited editions has waned, the watches themselves seem to be getting better. Not just in terms of their aesthetics (that’s a matter of opinion, of course) but in the way they’re made and their ergonomics. It would be incredibly easy for Kurono to just keep cranking out new colorways, but every new release is indicative of subtle refinements to the brand’s approach, applying new techniques with every watch.  Their latest, the Chronograph 3 “Hisui”, is a great example of the way the brand has made little changes and continues to experiment while still hewing close to what has become a distinct house style. Kurono’s chronographs have evolved into colorful “sector” designs over the years, and this example has what I think is a very appealing mint green colorway that...