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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Elegance Meets Accuracy - Going Forward, All Of Serica’s Watches Will Be COSC-Certified Chronometers Fratello
Serica s Watches Will Be Feb 1, 2024

Elegance Meets Accuracy - Going Forward, All Of Serica’s Watches Will Be COSC-Certified Chronometers

Any young watch brand constantly has to make choices about designs, costs, quality, and many other aspects that affect the organization every day. In the case of Serica, a young Parisian brand founded in 2019, elegance, reliability, and accuracy steer the decision-making process. In terms of elegance, I don’t think there was anyone who thought […] Visit Elegance Meets Accuracy - Going Forward, All Of Serica’s Watches Will Be COSC-Certified Chronometers to read the full article.

The Minimalist, 1970s Bulgari Bulgari Makes a Comeback SJX Watches
Bulgari Bulgari Makes Jan 31, 2024

The Minimalist, 1970s Bulgari Bulgari Makes a Comeback

Bulgari updates its signature Bulgari Bulgari wristwatch by reverting to the original format (almost). Debuted in 1977 as the brand’s first wristwatch, the model was designed by Gerald Genta, who conceived a flat bezel engraved with the brand name, reputedly inspired by ancient Roman coins. Though the model has remained in the collection size in a variety of styles, the latest version returns to the simplicity of the original, with a minimalist dial and compact, 38 mm case available only in either 18k yellow or rose gold for now. Initial thoughts The Bulgari Bulgari remains the Italian jeweller’s quintessential wristwatch, remaining recognisable despite having evolved into a multitude of iterations over the years. The appeal of the design is its distinctive style despite the simplicity, something that the latest version returns to. The new Bulgari Bulgari has a minimalist dial featuring a date at three (which purists might frown at), and rendered more wearable with a diameter of 38 mm. This scaled-down case no doubt reflects a trend found across other brands, many of which are moving towards cases in the range of 35 mm to 39 mm, often in a vintage-inspired style. Whilst the new case size is almost ideal, the date window gets in the way of the minimalist design. At the same time, an upgraded movement would have made it more appeal. While in-house, the long-in-tooth BVL 191 has a disappointingly short power reserve of 42 hours, as opposed to the norm of three days for n...

The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Gets a Jade Dial SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Jan 31, 2024

The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Gets a Jade Dial

H. Moser & Cie. is back with another Streamliner to kick off the year. The Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade sports a dial crafted from the mineral stone – mined in the American state – and a rose gold case, while retaining the other elements from the original Streamliner Tourbillon with a Vantablack dial released in 2022. Initial thoughts Like most mineral stones, jade has a natural pattern that varies across examples. As each piece of jade has a pattern that’s slightly different from the next, no two dials are exactly the same. This unique variance is one of the key attractions of natural stone dials. Here it is paired with rose gold, a combination that works particularly well. Because it is identical in size to the earlier Streamliner Tourbillon, it also wears well. The 40 mm case sits well on my 6.5 in wrist, being neither too big nor too small thanks to the lug-less case design. This is a pricey watch in absolute terms, with a retail of CHF 109,000. That said, the value proposition is actually decent. The comparable Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon in pink gold, for instance, costs almost double. While Moser is a niche brand compared to establishment names, it offers watches that are relatively more unusual, while being comparable in overall quality. The only downside of this is arguably the edition size, which at 100 is substantial for a watch of this nature. Moser has been steadily increasing the variety and quantity of its high-end Streamliner models...

Introducing Three New Hublot Watches: The Big Bang Unico Green Saxem And Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski In Two Colors Fratello
Hublot Watches Jan 29, 2024

Introducing Three New Hublot Watches: The Big Bang Unico Green Saxem And Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski In Two Colors

Boisterous watch fans, rejoice! These three new Hublot watches will scratch your itch for color instantly. And apart from the colors, the watches are out of the ordinary in every possible way. The Big Bang Unico Green Saxem, for instance, features a case made of a brightly colored, transparent, sapphire-like material. And the Classic Fusion […] Visit Introducing Three New Hublot Watches: The Big Bang Unico Green Saxem And Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski In Two Colors to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Solargraph 34 mm SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Jan 29, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Solargraph 34 mm

Following the original Aquaracer Solargraph two years ago, the affordable solar-powered dive watch now debuts in a more compact format with the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph that has a 34 mm case containing the solar-powered TH50-01. Initial thoughts The Aquaracer has long been one of TAG Heuer’s main entry-level offerings. For several years, however, the models were mostly big or bulky, until the brand released the more wearable and solar-powered 40 mm model two years ago. The new Solargraph maintains the familiar design and solar-powered movement but with a smaller case. With a diameter of 34 mm, this model leans towards being a women’s watch, so an in-between or “mid size” model of 37 mm or 38 mm is arguably still missing. Nevertheless, the vibrant dial offerings – that importantly do not reveal the solar panels – are noteworthy and hopefully indicate more variety is coming to the larger model. With prices starting at US$2,150, the value proposition  is reasonable, given the execution of the case and dial, and the innovative solar calibre (at least for a Swiss brand). As an aside, Swiss-made solar-powered movements are relatively uncommon, making this a relatively unusual proposition. While there have been a handful of solar-powered models from Cartier, they haven’t made it to the market in significant numbers, perhaps due to difficulties in mastering production on a large scale. In contrast, Japanese brands like Citizen easily produce several mil...

Watch Design And Manufacturing - Things That Have Improved And Things That Haven’t Fratello
Jan 29, 2024

Watch Design And Manufacturing - Things That Have Improved And Things That Haven’t

One of the many things I love about a good watch is its permanence. A properly built watch, well maintained, will not expire. This has been the case for decades now, but it is particularly evident these days through its contrast with our quick-consumption habits. However, although watches have long been made to last, some […] Visit Watch Design And Manufacturing - Things That Have Improved And Things That Haven’t to read the full article.

Bulova Dress Up the Lunar Pilot with a Meteorite Dial SJX Watches
Bulova Dress Up Jan 26, 2024

Bulova Dress Up the Lunar Pilot with a Meteorite Dial

Something of an alternative “Moon” watch, the Bulova Lunar Pilot was unveiled eight years ago as a remake of the watch worn by American astronaut David Scott. It retains all the distinctive features of the original but made affordable thanks to a quartz movement. But now it’s a become a bit more luxe with a meteorite dial inside a scaled-down case. Initial thoughts As a space-watch aficionado, I find the Lunar Pilot more interesting than its more famous counterparts because of the unique yet contemporary design, particularly the modern typography on the chronograph registers. After its debut, the Lunar Pilot was made more wearable with a smaller case size of 43.5 mm in diameter. Not much has happened since then, either in terms of dial variety or other innovation, limiting its appeal beyond a niche audience. Therefore, the meteorite dial version is a welcome development, particularly since the material is still uncommon in this price segment. The meteorite edition, however, is pricey for the Lunar Pilot. It costs at US$1,495, a US$600 increase over the model with the standard dial. This price hike is arguably warranted since such dials are typically, but not always, found on more expensive timepieces. Despite being a limited edition, it is a run of 5,000 pieces, which isn’t exactly “limited”; a smaller edition size would have made it more compelling. A space rock dial David Scott’s own Bulova Chronograph ref. 88510/01 worn during the Apollo 15 mission in 1971...

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Seiko Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jan 25, 2024

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Seiko

In this edition of Inside the Collection, Zach Weiss and Kat Shoulders examine what collecting Seiko has meant to them over the years. It’s a common collecting trope that Seiko is the gateway drug for many watch collectors just getting their start, and as you’ll see here that’s certainly the case for Zach and Kat. But Seiko also endures in both of their collections years later, and in surprising ways. There’s so much variety in the Seiko collection (going back decades) that it’s impossible to ever get bored of the brand, and there are always new things to discover beyond the familiar dive watches and entry level Seiko 5.  Zach Weiss  The greatest thing about Seiko watches, or the brand/company as a whole, is that no matter where you are in your collecting lifecycle, there is likely a watch that will appeal to you. From Seiko 5 to Prospex to Grand Seiko to Credor, there is something to find that will suit a taste, need, and budget. And to be clear, that doesn’t exclude a Credor customer from picking up a new Seiko 5 and vice versa. As a collector, that has kept them as a constant for me over the years. Starting with the Seiko 5 SNK field watches that one could pick up for a song a decade ago, then heading to vintage-styled Prospex divers, and now mining for oddities like the Seiko Sportura Kinetic Chronographs (not to mention Grand Seiko’s delights) there is simply always something for me to look for.  It’s quite dangerous as I often find myself bored wit...

Clark Gable Wears The Coolest Watch Of 1955 In ‘Soldier of Fortune’: Patek Philippe Reference 1526 Perpetual Calendar - Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 1526 Perpetual Calendar Jan 25, 2024

Clark Gable Wears The Coolest Watch Of 1955 In ‘Soldier of Fortune’: Patek Philippe Reference 1526 Perpetual Calendar - Reprise

Like a proper gentleman, Hollywood legend Clark Gable paired wristwatches to go with his outfits both on and off screen. Gable had a gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 6011 and also wore a Patek Philippe Reference 1526 Perpetual Calendar, prominently seen in ‘Soldier of Fortune’ as Nick Gould highlights here.

Dutch Insurance Company Forced To Pay Full Rolex Market Price To Theft Victim Fratello
Rolex Market Price Jan 21, 2024

Dutch Insurance Company Forced To Pay Full Rolex Market Price To Theft Victim

Today, I’d like to share an interesting verdict from the Dutch Institute for Financial Disputes (Kifid) in a case between an insurance company (Achmea Schadeverzekeringen N.V.) and a consumer. The consumer had an insurance policy with an additional clause for valuable goods. Importantly, this additional insurance also covered the loss/theft of valuable goods outside the […] Visit Dutch Insurance Company Forced To Pay Full Rolex Market Price To Theft Victim to read the full article.

New: Panerai Luminor Due PAM01424 Burgundy Deployant
Panerai Luminor Due PAM01424 Burgundy Jan 20, 2024

New: Panerai Luminor Due PAM01424 Burgundy

The Panerai Luminor Due was a collection which was first introduced in 2017, as the mid-sized, unisex Luminor model. The movement then was designated as the OP XXXIV which is assumed to have been renamed the P.900 caliber which is now found inside the new Due. The 42mm case Luminor Due bears the same crown guard as the iconic Luminor Marina, but with only 50m water resistance. Its slim profile and polished case is a marked stylistic variation from the original dive watch. The new dial color adds a nice statement to the hybrid classic timepiece.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Slims Down the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Slims Down Jan 18, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Slims Down the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve

Jaeger-LeCoultre begins the new year with an enhanced version of one of its signature watches, the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve. While largely maintaining the design of the existing model, the new variant has a new look with a pink gold case, more cohesive styling and most notably, an upgraded movement with silicon parts and a longer power reserve. Initial thoughts Although present in the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) catalogue for over two decades in one form or another, the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve doesn’t get as much attention as its Master collection siblings, not to mention the famed Reverso. However, given the brand’s historical status as a vertically-integrated movement maker, the new Master Power Reserve plays to the JLC’s strengths since it retains the familiar design while installing all-new mechanics in the form of the cal. 938.  The update is a practical one, since the new calibre has a longer power reserve of three days. However, the update is not an accessible one from a price perspective, since this enhancement is currently exclusive to this boutique-only pink gold version and has not been extended to the steel model. The update will almost certainly make its way into the more affordable model some time in the future, so it’s a matter of waiting. JLC was historically known for its value-oriented pricing, an edge that has been dulled somewhat in recent years as its prices have crept upwards. This watch illustrates that, even if it is still priced ...

Oris Introduces Cricket-Themed Big Crown Pointer Date SJX Watches
Oris Introduces Cricket-Themed Big Crown Jan 17, 2024

Oris Introduces Cricket-Themed Big Crown Pointer Date

Oris gives its signature model a subtle makeover with the Big Crown Father Time Limited Edition, a collaboration with Marylebone Cricket Club (MCC). This release commemorates the pair’s three-year collaboration that began in 2022 and combines a 40 mm bronze case with a creamy white dial. Initial thoughts The Big Crown Father Time is best described as a cricket-themed variation of the bronze Big Crown Pointer Date. The cricket element, however, is subtle and practically absent from the dial, which is not a bad thing since it gives the watch the widest possible appeal. Setting aside the cricket theme, the contrast between the dial elements and the dial itself is appealing. The watch stands out in terms of legibility due to this contrast. The cathedral hands and extra-large crown add a nice touch that evoke vintage Oris models. And though I’m typically a fan of fluted bezels, this one works well. This is equipped with a Sellita SW 200-1 instead of an in-house movement. However, with a retail price of US$3,100, it is still acceptable value. “Father Time” Sitting on top of the clock tower, Father Time is the weathervane at Lord’s Cricket Ground and was gifted to MCC in 1926 by architect Sir Herbert Baker. Because Lord’s is the “Home of Cricket”, and the MCC once the sport’s governing body, Father Time is one of the globally recognised symbols of the sport. The Big Crown Pointer Date, on the other hand, is synonymous with Oris. Introduced in 1938 as a pilot’...

First Look - The New Zenith Pilot Automatic and Big Date Flyback Blue Boutique Editions Monochrome
Zenith Pilot Automatic Jan 16, 2024

First Look - The New Zenith Pilot Automatic and Big Date Flyback Blue Boutique Editions

Nearly a year ago, Zenith made a striking debut with the all-new Pilot collection, introducing the Big Date Flyback chronograph and the Automatic models, both available in either stainless steel or black ceramic. A departure from the earlier Zenith Pilot references, these watches showcased a fresh look, featuring a new case and crown, dial designs, […]

Hands-On: the Direnzo DRZ06 Wandering Star Worn & Wound
Ming little more than Jan 15, 2024

Hands-On: the Direnzo DRZ06 Wandering Star

I always look forward to checking out a new release from Direnzo. There’s always more than meets the eye, and the DRZ06 Wandering Star is no exception. The watch is a marriage of the familiar and the unexpected. In this case, the ‘familiar’ is an evolution of Direnzo’s retro-futuristic design language, including a dish-shaped dial, bold colors, and organic-feeling markers cut into a sandwich dial. The ‘unexpected’ is the presence of a mystery dial. It’s now some years since I wrote about the originals and heyday of the Mystery Dial here, but it’s still a feature I’d like to see more of. I guess many watchmakers might be deterred from attempting this as it’s difficult to avoid the mystery being the interesting thing about a watch and therefore becoming little more than a gimmick. Perhaps the reason it has been implemented successfully as part of the DRZ06 Wandering Star is that we just have a mystery sub-dial for the running seconds, with a lone red dot slowly spinning around against the lumed backdrop. Last summer I spent some time with Direnzo’s previous release – a reworking of one of their earliest models. The case of the new DRZ06 is similar in shape to that of the DRZ02 Aerolite, but with some subtle changes that blend to give a different character. For starters, the brushed steel bezel is larger in every way. Despite the main watch case being a soft square shape, this strong bezel makes the watch feel far rounder. The Wandering Star still pull...

New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon Deployant
Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon Jan 13, 2024

New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon

Bell & Ross is a watch brand that is known for its aviation-inspired timepieces and the iconic square dash gauge case design. The latest addition to their collection is the BR 05 Artline Dragon, a limited edition model that features a dragon motif on the dial and the case. The dragon is a symbol of power, wisdom and luck in many cultures, and it is also a tribute to the Chinese New Year of the Dragon in 2024.

Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands - Finally! Hodinkee
Omega Speedmaster 57 Again Jan 11, 2024

Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands - Finally!

Something strange happened in 2013. Omega released a new self-winding Speedmaster with its killer co-axial movement and called it the Speedmaster '57. It looked like the original reference 2915 from 1957 in so, so many ways, right down to the crown-guard-less, polished case, and steel bezel. It was, as I called it back then, a superb offering for someone looking for a vintage-looking watch with great styling but with modern technology at a great price, from a blue-chip brand. But one thing really bugged me about that watch – where were the broad-arrow hands? You call it a Speedmaster '57, and do everything right except give it its most identifiable trait? I didn't get it, I still don't, but it doesn't matter now because Omega went ahead and fixed that.

Blancpain & Swatch Introduce the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms “Ocean of Storms” SJX Watches
Blancpain & Swatch Introduce Jan 10, 2024

Blancpain & Swatch Introduce the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms “Ocean of Storms”

Just days a week into the new year, Blancpain and Swatch announce an all-black variation of the Scuba Fifty Fathoms, their affordable collaboration introduced last year. The Ocean of Storms retains all the distinctive features of the model, namely a 42.3 mm Bioceramic case containing the Sistem51 automatic movement fitted with a rotor bearing a nudibranch (a shell-less mollusc for those unfamiliar with esoteric marine creatures). Priced at US$400 as before, it will be available at select Swatch boutiques starting January 11, 2024. Initial thoughts When Swatch started teasing this new variant on social media, it seemed to be yet another one-off limited edition available for one day, like the MoonSwatch “Mission to Moonshine Gold” releases last year. However, as more details emerged, it became apparent that this was not the case as this will be part of the permanent collection, bringing the number of Scuba Fifty Fathoms models to an even six. At first glance, the Ocean of Storms bears a striking resemblance to last year’s Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary “Act 1”, a high-end watch that is an actual Blancpain, particularly with the date window and notched bezel. Nevertheless, adjustments to the design set it apart from its pricier cousins as well as its siblings in the Scuba line. It is clearly the most monochromatic and low-key of the range. Priced at US$400, the Ocean of Storms is priced the same as the other variants, retaining its fun and affordable appeal. However...

Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Worn & Wound
Breitling s stewardship remains Jan 4, 2024

Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw”

Last year, Heinrich introduced an eye-catching dial in an all new case. Each of Heinrich’s watches up to this point have been described as vintage inspired with strong 70s vibes.The Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” is no different, with the dial taking fairly direct inspiration from Universal Genève’s Unisonic “Buzzsaw” tuning fork watch from the late 1960s and ‘70s. Whether we will see a reincarnation of this design from Universal Genève under Breitling’s stewardship remains to be seen, but if you are crying out for a funky dial design at an affordable price, this could be the watch for you. The Helicoprion name comes from an extinct genus of shark-like fish, which had a spiral of teeth in its lower jaw – the teeth increasing in size as it spiraled outwards. This creature, along with Heinrich’s latest watch, has also been dubbed the “Buzzsaw” due to the similar circular tooth configuration seen on the blade of a circular saw. While the Universal Genève reference also saw each tooth shifting to a darker or lighter shade as they increased in size, the Heinrich Helicoprion dial markings are presented in a single color as the teeth grow between each hour (or five minute) index. $558 Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 or Sellita SW200 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Beads of rice bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 40 x 47.8mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty ...

Hands-on - The Bell & Ross BR 03 Gyrocompass Puts a Flight Instrument on your Wrist Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR 03 Gyrocompass Puts Jan 4, 2024

Hands-on - The Bell & Ross BR 03 Gyrocompass Puts a Flight Instrument on your Wrist

Last year marked an important milestone for Bell & Ross when the brand updated its iconic BR 03 collection after well over fifteen years of loyal service. The brand’s instrument-inspired collection is renowned for its extremely legible (in most cases) and recognizable design ethos based on a square case and a circular dial with a […]

Longines Adds a GMT to the Master Collection, in 18k Gold SJX Watches
Longines Adds Jan 4, 2024

Longines Adds a GMT to the Master Collection, in 18k Gold

With recent releases well received, most notably the 190th Anniversary models and Small Seconds featuring engraved Breguet numerals, Longines’ Master Collection now gains a twin time zone offering with the Master Collection GMT, which is only available in 18k gold, for now. With the case in either yellow or rose gold, the GMT stands apart from its more affordable predecessors. It also diverges in terms of design, with applied Roman numerals instead of Breguet numerals. Initial thoughts The latest addition to the line continues the progressive facelifting of the Master Collection that gives existing models a sophisticated style. Though the range already included a GMT, it was in the older livery with a guilloche dial. The new GMT sticks to the classical aesthetic of the Master Collection, though it’s not quite as successful as the facelift applied to the rest of the line-up. Although elaborately done with applied numerals – which are solid gold to match the case – the dial is a bit old fashioned and feels uninspired. This is particularly obvious when compared to its time-only counterparts with their engraved Breguet numerals. That said, applying Breguet numerals to the GMT is a simple matter, and I would not be surprised to see that in the future. Because of the solid gold case, the Master Collection GMT costs US$14,750, which is well beyond the brand’s traditional price segment and where it does well. Even though this is a Longines with features usually found in ...

In-Depth: Girard-Perregaux’s True Constant-Force Escapement SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux s True Constant-Force Escapement Jan 3, 2024

In-Depth: Girard-Perregaux’s True Constant-Force Escapement

Ten years after it arrived on market, Girard-Perregaux revived its most notable modern-day invention with the Neo Constant Escapement. Operating on the same principles as the original, the Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) features an upgraded movement inside a more compact case. A combination of a historical concept originating with Abraham-Louis Breguet and cutting edge horology, the NCE retains the defining invention of the original – a true constant-force escapement. “True” because the constant-force mechanism, comprising a lozenge-shaped silicon spring, is integrated with the pallet lever, which in turn interacts with a “natural” escapement of twin escape wheels. While the key concept has been retained, the rest of the NCE, however, has been improved over the original, with wearability in particular having been enhanced. Initial thoughts The fundamental concept of the NCE is appealing because it successfully combines a significant historical invention, Breguet’s double-wheel escapement, with an innovation that is entirely 21st century, a compliant mechanism in silicon. Both are brought together in an elegant yet ingenious manner. The basis of the movement is Breguet’s échappement naturel, the “natural” escapement with two wheels that has been adopted in the modern day, in a variety of modified forms, by Voutilainen, F.P. Journe, and Charles Frodsham. But the natural escapement here has been enhanced with a constant force mechanism made up of a single pi...

Introducing - The Glashütte Original Lady Serenade Valentine’s Day 2024 Monochrome
Glashütte Original Lady Serenade Valentine’s Day Jan 3, 2024

Introducing - The Glashütte Original Lady Serenade Valentine’s Day 2024

For Valentine’s Day 2024, Glashütte Original gives its Lady Serenade model a romantic makeover with diamonds and a delicate mother-of-pearl dial with gradient pink-hued numerals. Combining traditional Saxon pragmatism in the form of a robust stainless steel case and an in-house automatic movement, the three-hand-and-date Lady Serenade is a limited edition of 50 pieces. The […]