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Results for Patek Philippe Calibre 89

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Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Opera Two May 21, 2024

Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong

Having covered the highlights from independent watchmakers and historical pocket watches at The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII on May 24 and 25, we now turn to complicated watches past and present. Amongst the historical are an Omega 30I tourbillon wristwatch tested at the Geneva, Neuchatel and Kew observatories, as well as a pair of chronographs with historical movements, an Excelsior Park with the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph calibre and a Montblanc with the large, 17”’ Minerva monopoussoir chronograph movement. More recent is the Patek Philippe ref. 5059R London edition with applied Roman numerals and the Girard-Perregaux Opera Two, an ultra-complicated watch that’s a value-buy. The auction is scheduled for May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), with online bidding and the catalogue available on Phillips.com. The Patek Philippe ref. 5059R made for the Grand Exhibition in London. 822 – Lange Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” Launched in 2021 to overwhelming demand, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” was the A. Lange & Söhne’s second luminous digital-display watch after the “Phantom” of 2010. It was a limited edition of 200 watches and based on the second-generation Zeitwerk, which is visually almost identical to the original model but enhanced with several technical upgrades, including a longer, 72-hour power reserve. Like the earlier “Phantom”, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” has a tinted sapphire dial that reveals the luminous numer...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Facelifts the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin May 14, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Facelifts the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) unveils a new variant of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer, combining an 18k pink gold case with a domed, champlevé enamel dial depicting the Northern Hemisphere. As the name suggests, the watch features the cal. 948 with an orbital tourbillon that makes one revolution around the dial every 24 hours in conjunction with the map, mimicking the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. Dial and case metal aside, this is essentially identical to the white gold model released in 2022. Initial thoughts As a variation of an existing model, the new Calibre 948 World-Timer is not entirely novel. It is, however, a quite a stunning watch in both looks and mechanics. The enamel dial and pink gold case are in a rich, complementary colours, resulting in a striking, warm aesthetics. And the level of execution is also high, reflecting JLC’s strength in industrial-artisanal high-end watchmaking. That said, with JLC’s storied history, it feels like the brand can do more than rehash this tourbillon (and the Duometre as it did at Watches & Wonders earlier this year). The watchmaker’s watchmaker Sometimes known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, JLC historically supplied calibres to many notable brands, including the “Holy Trinity” of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. As a result, it has a manufacturing know-how that is amongst the best in the mid- to high-end of Swiss watchmaking. A world-time orbital tourbillon with a champlev...

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Loupe This is set to auction off the ultimate hypebeast Tiffany Blue Nautilus 5711 – here’s why that’s worth paying attention to Time+Tide
May 10, 2024

Loupe This is set to auction off the ultimate hypebeast Tiffany Blue Nautilus 5711 – here’s why that’s worth paying attention to

For those who never worked up the VIP lists of Tiffany or Patek, Loupe This is set to list the ultimate hype watch: a Tiffany blue Nautilus.The post Loupe This is set to auction off the ultimate hypebeast Tiffany Blue Nautilus 5711 – here’s why that’s worth paying attention to appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands On: TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds for Only Watch 2024 SJX Watches
Richard Mille May 8, 2024

Hands On: TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds for Only Watch 2024

An ambitious evolution of its signature square-cased chronograph, the Monaco Split-Seconds was first revealed as a unique piece for Only Watch. Although the regular production version was launched earlier this year, the one-off example made for Only Watch remains unique for the finishing on the case and movement. Initial thoughts Powered by a sophisticated Vaucher calibre, the Monaco rattrapante is mostly made of titanium – the alloy is used for the case and movement – and a deft evolution of the Monaco case. On the wrist, the watch feels good as it is noticeably lightweight despite being quite large. The case design is evidently derived from the original but smartly reworked to give it a more pronounced, stylised form. Details like the facetted sapphire crystals and oversized pushers complement the styling. Overall, the aesthetic is the hyper-mechanical look of the same school as Richard Mille and Hublot, but here executed to a high level thanks to the Vaucher calibre that’s hand finished. The only element of the design I would do away with is the “X” bridge on the dial, which feels like an affectation that doesn’t really do much for the design. But overall the aesthetic is cohesive and appealing. Importantly, the watch acquits itself well up close. The finishing on the titanium bridges and plates of the movement is particularly impressively, given the difficulty of achieving a mirror polish on the alloy. And because the Vaucher calibre is a high-end construct...

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First Look – The New Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 with Micro-Rotor Movement Monochrome
Yema May 7, 2024

First Look – The New Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 with Micro-Rotor Movement

A strong advocate of French watchmaking and a brand with history, Yema keeps upgrading its collection with more horological content and designs to please vintage enthusiasts. This blend of modern watchmaking and historic looks was the base of the recently presented Superman Slim CMM.20, the icon of the brand powered by a manufacture micro-rotor calibre developed and assembled in France. Now, it's time for the Navygraf, the other dive watch of Yema to be upgraded and refined with these nice mechanics. Meet the new Navygraf Slim CMM.20 diver.

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Up Close: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2024” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only May 1, 2024

Up Close: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2024”

Possibly the successor to the Chronomètre Bleu, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is a unique creation made for Only Watch 2024 taking place on May 10, but also the template for a next generation of lineSport watches. The Furtif Bleu retains the familiar silhouette of the lineSport, but is executed entirely in tantalum – notably the bracelet is tantalum – with a fired enamel dial. Additionally, it is equipped with a new calibre that displays the power reserve and moon phase on the back. Initial thoughts Despite its name and low-key colours, the Furtif Bleu is a very striking watch, largely because of the contrast between the dark grey tantalum and the blue dial with an orange seconds hand. In the hand, it is heavy, as expected for the metal, and also silky in feel due to the finely blasted surfaces of the case and bracelet. Close your eyes and it feels like the current lineSport in platinum, though the blasted finish is finer than that on the existing gold and platinum models. And on the wrist, it is unexpectedly elegant for a sports watch because of its height, which is just 9.5 mm. That’s slightly thicker than the Chronomètre Bleu and noticeably thinner than the lineSport Automatique Reserve. One of the most notable aspects of the watch is the bracelet, which is entirely tantalum. The nature of the alloy makes it particularly difficult to work, explaining the cost and rarity of tantalum watch cases. Tantalum bracelets are even less common. The only other brand I can t...

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Thomas Aubert Wins 2024 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Established Apr 21, 2024

Thomas Aubert Wins 2024 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Established in 2015, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is an annual affair to recognise the next generation of watchmakers. Applicants present a timepiece of their own design and construction, which is judged by on its complexity, craftsmanship, and aesthetics by a jury including Philippe Dufour, Giulio Papi, and Francois-Paul Journe. While last year’s winner was a Swiss-Italian clockmaker, this year’s winner is 23-year-old Frenchman Thomas Aubert, who entered his wristwatch Séléné, a unique piece crafted in his final year at the Edgar Faure High School in Morteau, France. Amongst the standout features of the Séléné is its key-winding and -setting as well as the clever “shooting star” display on the back. The Séléné pays tribute to classical watchmaking in both style and technique, but each reinterpreted with a modern twist. As is often the case with such school watches, the movement is based on the Unitas 6497, although it underwent extensive reworking. For example, the timepiece doesn’t feature a crown; instead winding and time-setting are done via a key that goes into dedicated slots on the case back.  The front of the Séléné is classical and tastefully done, with a “grated” finish on the dial that is set on a frosted plate backdrop. The exposed balance bridge is mirror polished and chamfered. The screwed balance beats at 2.5 Hz and features a prominent Breguet overcoil hairspring. Mr Aubert is fascinated by astronomy, a passion that he...

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Dive Watches are Back in the Zenith Defy Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Collection Here’s Apr 13, 2024

Dive Watches are Back in the Zenith Defy Collection

Here’s a thing you may or may not know about Watches & Wonders: there are very few genuine surprises once we hit the Palexpo floor. Almost every brand (Rolex, Tudor, and Patek are the big holdouts) send press releases to media weeks before the show so coverage can be prepped. By the time we walk into a meeting with virtually any brand exhibiting, we already have the key information on their new novelties and are just looking for additional context, hands-on impressions, and an opportunity to get those all important photos. But sometimes brands hold back a release or two, and this will sometimes result in the kind of extremely welcome surprise I experienced when I visited Zenith early this week. One of my favorite brands has dive watches again.  We already told you about the Defy Skyline Chronograph, but in addition to that watch Zenith had an even bigger (literally and figuratively) Defy up their sleeve. The new Defy Extreme Diver represents the brand’s long awaited return to the dive watch category, and they’ve done it where you’d expect: within the highly technical and sometimes brazen Defy range. The new Extreme Diver has an imposing 42.5mm titanium case with the characteristic 12 sided bezel common to other Defys, and outside this fixed bezel we get a ceramic dive bezel. The case is rated to an extremely unnecessary 600 meters, which is the same depth as the original Defy diver, the A3648, from 1969.  The dial utilizes the star pattern that has become standar...

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Introducing – The Return of the Duometre, with the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon During Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The Return of the Duometre, with the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

During the 2024 edition of Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre welcomes back the Duometre, one of its most technical, high-end collections. Thanks to the development of the new calibre 391, the Duometre Chronograph Moon combines a high-precision chronograph with a celestial complication. Further evolutions regarding the case and dial mark this model as one of the […]

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First Look – Grand Seiko Goes Hand-Wound With the New Birch Bark SLGW003 and SLGW002 (incl. Video) Monochrome
Grand Seiko Goes Hand-Wound Apr 9, 2024

First Look – Grand Seiko Goes Hand-Wound With the New Birch Bark SLGW003 and SLGW002 (incl. Video)

In 2020, for its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko unveiled two milestones: a new automatic, hi-beat movement named calibre 9SA5 and a new collection of watches with an updated design language known as Evolution 9. It took us and the watch community a bit of time to understand the importance of this move by the Japanese watchmaker; […]

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Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Chronograph SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Chronograph

Amidst the plethora of sports watches with integrated bracelets, the Zenith Defy Skyline stands out for its uncluttered design and relative affordability. Now the lineup is joined by the Defy Skyline Chronograph. The chronograph maintains many of the signature features of the existing models, such as its octagonal case and star-patterned dial. Debuting in three dial colours, Defy chronograph is amongst Zenith’s sportier offerings. Like other recent launches, it is powered by the second-generation El Primero calibre. Initial thoughts The Defy Skyline Chronograph is another option for an enthusiasts seeking a sports chronograph with a contemporary design and integrated bracelet. There are admittedly many, many options in this category, but the Defy chronograph is one of the value-minded offerings. At CHF11,900, the Defy chronograph with its in-house movement is competitively priced compared to other offerings in the sports watch market. The brand has opted for a conservative design while retaining a modern edge. Though the overall design is familiar, it has incorporates a few unusual details, including a polygonal flange around the dial. The watch is being launched in only three colours, all simple, easy shades that are well suited to the design, though not exciting. With the limited colours in mind, some might want to wait for subsequent releases that may adopt the colours found in its time-only counterpart. Zenith’s latest addition The Defy chronograph joins Zenith’...

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Introducing – The Classically Elegant Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar Monochrome
Laurent Ferrier Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Classically Elegant Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar

After several iterations of its integrated sporty-chic watches, the Sport Auto and the Grand Sport Tourbillon, independent watchmaker Laurent Ferrier goes back to his roots. Known for the sublime elegance and smoothness of his creations, something he perfected during his long career at Patek, Laurent Ferrier introduces two highly elegant new models from its classic […]

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The Best Speedmasters Of The Last Five Years Fratello
Omega introduced Apr 2, 2024

The Best Speedmasters Of The Last Five Years

Five years ago, Omega introduced the last limited-edition Speedmaster models. Who would have thought? After a good ~25 years of introducing many different Speedmaster limited editions, sometimes even more than one per year, the brand just stopped. Well, not entirely, of course, because although the Speedmaster Calibre 321 and Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary […] Visit The Best Speedmasters Of The Last Five Years to read the full article.

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First Look – Czapek Brings The First Antarctique in Gold with the Mount Erebus (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Czapek Brings Mar 26, 2024

First Look – Czapek Brings The First Antarctique in Gold with the Mount Erebus (Incl. Video)

Back in 2020, Czapek launched its Antarctique, the brand’s first luxury sports watch that simultaneously featured the brand’s first in-house calibre. The design followed the codes of what a luxury sports watch is said to be, with a shaped case, integrated bracelet and a textured dial. But Czapek being Czapek, it didn’t cut any corners. […]

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Introducing – The Appealing Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual Gets a Stylish Grey Option Monochrome
Carl F. Bucherer Mar 22, 2024

Introducing – The Appealing Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual Gets a Stylish Grey Option

First released in 2019, the Heritage BiCompax Annual quickly became a best-selling watch for Carl F. Bucherer. Merging retro design elements with modern complications and practicality, it is one of the very few timepieces on the market to combine a chronograph and an annual calendar – something you’d imagine only Patek is capable of manufacturing… […]

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Introducing – Audemars Piguet 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) in White Gold Monochrome
Audemars Piguet 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Mar 8, 2024

Introducing – Audemars Piguet 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) in White Gold

Considered the precursor of the luxury sports watch category, the Royal Oak turned fifty in 2022. As expected, Audemars Piguet went to town to fete its icon with a host of celebratory models. However, the excitement grew when AP unveiled the first 39mm Jumbo to be fitted with an ultra-thin flying tourbillon (calibre 2968). Officially […]

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Up Close: Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes SJX Watches
Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes Feb 23, 2024

Up Close: Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes

Breguet recently unveiled the latest generation of its minute repeater wristwatch, which embodies minimalist classicism. The Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes has a fired enamel dial in glossy black with just two pomme hands and Breguet-style numerals in silver-powder print – and a case that is a surprisingly large 42 mm. Inside is the cal. 567.2, a variant of the calibre that has equipped Breguet repeating wristwatches since the 1990s. But while today’s cal. 567.2 still has the familiar layout of a traditional striking movement, it incorporates a series of upgrades that give the 7637 particularly impressive acoustic qualities. Initial thoughts The 7637 in its latest guise is a beautiful, elegant watch in the traditional Breguet style. Traditionalists might say the black enamel dial is too stark, but the look is still quintessential Breguet in my eyes. Moreover, this is the best iteration of the model to date. Compared to the earlier open-dial model, the new ref. 7637 is restrained and refined in the manner expected of Breguet. The latest 7637 with an enamel dial (left), and its predecessor that featured an open dial revealing engine-turned movement plates Even though the 7637 is descended from prior generations of Breguet repeating wristwatches – the movement originates in the 1990s – it sounds substantially better. The volume, clarity, and tonality of its chimes are leagues ahead of its predecessors. This results from upgrades to both the movement as well as ca...

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First Look – The Dazzling Gem-Set Zenith Chronomaster Sport Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Any serious Feb 12, 2024

First Look – The Dazzling Gem-Set Zenith Chronomaster Sport

Any serious watch buff is familiar with the story of Zenith’s El Primero high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre of 1969. Fast-forward to the 21st century, and Zenith’s iconic movement ticks on thanks to upgrades and ever-higher frequencies to track elapsed times. A variant of the brand’s famous Zenith Chronomaster – itself a descendant of the iconic […]

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