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Hands-On: the Atelier Wen Perception Mù Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Oct 17, 2024

Hands-On: the Atelier Wen Perception Mù

If there’s a single area of the watch world that feels truly exciting and vibrant right now, it’s the small, approachable, independent brands. I like to call them “micro-indies,” because they take elements of what made the microbrand boom so fruitful to many (direct to consumer sales, lots of creativity) and match it up with real watchmaking craft in ways you might not expect. When I got into this hobby years ago, it was common to hear various voices on the watch forums telling you that finding “real” guilloche under five figures is straight up impossible. But new brands, and new ideas, allow for all kinds of new possibilities. Atelier Wen’s Perception integrated bracelet sports watch has become an enthusiast favorite since its inception thanks to their impressive guilloche dials made by a self-taught master of his craft, all at a cost under $4,000. Atelier Wen achieves this, in large part, by embracing Chinese manufacturing, something other brands that approach this segment run away from. But that’s the beauty of the micro-indie landscape: when you rethink how to solve common watchmaking problems, you wind up with uncommon watches that are truly unique.  Atelier Wen has launched their latest Perception, the Millesime 2024 Perception “Mù” at an unusual time in the brand’s history. There is more attention on watches of this ilk than ever before, and frankly it feels like there are parts of the community that are looking to shoot holes in the story At...

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Breguet Introduces the Type XX in Rose Gold and Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 chronograph Sep 24, 2024

Breguet Introduces the Type XX in Rose Gold and Ceramic

Having launched the latest-generation Type XX last year, Breguet is adding to the family with the Type XX Chronograph 2067 in rose gold, a new take on the “civilian” aviator’s chronograph. Inspired by a historical design, the latest Type XX features the a 12-hour bezel and three registers, along with a sophisticated, high-frequency chronograph movement. The cal. 728 Initial thoughts While the new Type XX is described by Breguet as being inspired by the vintage Type XX no. 1780 – one of just three vintage Type 20s in gold – it is an entirely modern watch in look and feel. The vintage inspiration is visible,  but the colours, materials, and finishing bestow a polished, modern look, which is a good thing. This contrasts with last year’s Type XX in steel that tried too hard to look vintage with faux-aged lume and lance-shaped hands, which was at odds with the overall look and feel. The new Type XX, on the other hand, looks coherently contemporary. With a dial and hands resembling that of the 1990s-era Type XX, the new chronograph also looks more proportional and balanced, though it retains the same dimensions as last year’s model. Interestingly, though the new Type XX has the date window in exactly the same place as last year’s watch, the date does not look as obvious here. Priced at US$37,900, the new Type XX 2067 is more affordable than the competition. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 chronograph in pink gold, for example, retails for US$49,700. Admittedly, t...

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Grand Seiko Just Released a Collector’s Dream Watch! Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Just Released Sep 2, 2024

Grand Seiko Just Released a Collector’s Dream Watch!

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko announced the new 9SA4 caliber and the first two watches featuring it, the SLGW002 and SLGW003. As a refresher, the 9SA4 is a manual hi-beat (36,000 bph), 80-hour, time-only caliber featuring their in-house dual-impulse escapement, first seen in the 9SA5. With a power reserve on the back of the movement, beautiful bridge designs and finishing, and a unique “wagtail-bird-shaped” winding click, it set a new bar for Grand Seiko’s mechanical calibers. But, perhaps just as exciting as the movement itself was that the watches featuring it were sized at an idyllic 38.6mm diameter and 9.95mm thickness with a 20mm lug, addressing the naysayer’s concerns around Grand Seiko’s sizing. While a pair of fantastic releases, since introduction, we have been wondering where we will see this movement next. Well, we just got our answer, and I have to tell you, I’m equally surprised and delighted. They went vintage rather than with the new case and a different dial, which would have been most expected. Yes, they decided to bring back, as a limited edition, of course, a “recreation” of the 45GS from 1968. A little history, the 45GS came out a year after the 44GS and featured the same case design, but differed in that it featured the brand’s first hi-beat manual wound movement, the 4520. The SLGW005 – the return of the 45GS The 44/45GS case defines the Grand Seiko “Grammar of Design” as set out by Taro Tanaka, with flat, Zaratsu poli...

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The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours in Minimalist Black Jade SJX Watches
Aug 13, 2024

The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours in Minimalist Black Jade

The Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone is Andersen Genève’s new take on its minimalist, digital hour timepiece. Retaining the same specifications, it once against uses the wide expanse of the dial for visual effect. The dial is a large, seamless piece of black jade just 0.4 mm thick that’s been lapped to a perfectly flat, mirrored finish. The glossy black dial is unadorned save for the hour display 12 o’clock, along with a pink gold minute hand matched with pink gold-powder printing. Initial thoughts Bringing to mind vintage jump hour pocket watches with its clean dial, the Andersen Jumping Hours is a perfect canvas for dial decoration given the available space. Even though it looks plain at a distance, the black jade dial is striking in its colour and simplicity, while also revealing the natural grain up close. The time display, however, is unconventional. While the hours are easy to read, the minute register at six is easily and often mistaken for the seconds. Though I can understand the design-driven purpose of the minute sub-dial, I would have done it another way to make reading of the time more intuitive. The quality of work is typical Andersen, which is artisanal and visibly so. It doesn’t have the perfect execution found in a Voutilainen or Akrivia but is done well. The price is commensurate with the quality – at about US$59,000 is more or less mid-range amongst high-end independent watchmakers. Time only in black jade One of the pioneering independent watchm...

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REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Prospex 4R Diver Black “Shog-Urai” WatchAdvice
Seiko s Prospex 4R Diver Aug 2, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Prospex 4R Diver Black “Shog-Urai”

We examine Seiko’s latest rendition of its iconic “Samurai” and “Shogun” models in this in-depth hands-on review. What We Love: Slimmed-down design of the previous Samurai/Shogun timepieces The hour indices and hands are much more appealing design The all-black look makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Unique dial design can take getting used to for non-enthusiasts The movement seems outdated for this latest 2024 offering Power reserve is sub-par for a timepiece of this calibre. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Seiko’s latest Prospex Diver collection, an update to the 4R Diver models, was released only a few short months ago. The Japanese watchmaker released three timepieces of this signature model, with colours varying from burgundy red (SRPL11) to black on steel (SRPL13) and black-coated (SRPL15). This year is also the 20th anniversary of the very first timepiece this new model references, celebrating a long yet somewhat turbulent history. The latest Seiko Prospex 4R Diver has a much more “sleek” design, having been slimmed down from previous versions. You might be wondering by now how this timepiece gets the “Shog-Urai” nickname! Well, we have to retrace back some steps to Seiko’s previous Prospex Divers models, which were named Samurai and Shogun. While this wasn’t Seiko’s official nickname for these timepieces upon their release, it’s the Seiko enthusiast who has graced ...

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Longines Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Jul 8, 2024

Longines Watches Guide

In 2022, Longines marked 190 years in operation, which means that the Swiss watchmaker’s bicentennial year is just around the corner. In nearly two centuries of continuous operation, Longines has not only been a reliable producer of watches in all kinds of styles for both men and ladies; it has also been responsible for more watchmaking milestones than you probably know. Here we take a look at the remarkable history of Longines watches. Foundations (1832-1908) Longines was founded in 1832, originally as Raiguel Jeune et Cie., in the Swiss Jura town of Saint-Imier by Auguste Agassiz and two partners. Agassiz (above, left) became the sole proprietor in 1846 after both partners, attorneys by trade, retired from the watch business, and shortly thereafter, he brought his nephew, an enterprising economist named Ernest Françillon (above, right), into the company. It was Françillon, in 1867, who moved all of the firm’s various watchmaking disciplines - which were scattered throughout dozens of independent workshops called établisseurs - under one roof, to a factory that was situated in a scenic area called “Les Longines” or “The Long Meadows,” thus giving the company its now-familiar name. In 1889, Francillon registered the famous Longines logo with a winged hourglass - today the world’s oldest unchanged, active logo according to the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). Among Longines’ many milestones under Françillon’s management were the c...

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Photo Report: The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Exhibition Fratello
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Jun 26, 2024

Photo Report: The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Exhibition

One fantastic aspect of living in London is that big events happen here. Museums, auction houses, and boutiques put on amazing displays for locals and visitors. Best of all, most of these shows are free and take place in lovely locations. Roughly three weeks ago, I had the opportunity to visit the Patek Philippe Rare […] Visit Photo Report: The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Exhibition to read the full article.

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[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Amida Digitrend Worn & Wound
Jun 11, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Amida Digitrend

Here’s the thing about wearing the Amida Digitrend: you can’t take a traditional wrist shot with it. It’s not an insignificant point in 2024, when the watch industry effectively lives on Instagram, and the currency through which influence is thrust upon brands, collectors, and all of the other personalities who have risen to prominence in recent years is the wrist shot. We expect them when our friends pick up a new piece for their collection, and it’s the first thing we ask for when a new watch is announced with a series of renders depicting the watch in some altered state. So can a watch find success with the enthusiast crowd if it’s virtually impossible to take a traditional wrist shot? Amida deserves a lot of credit, I think, for rolling the dice and finding out in real time. Their new watch, the Digitrend, is one of the most interesting and quietly daring new watches to hit the market in the last few years. It takes a design that’s fifty years old and revives it so successfully that it forces you to wonder what’s happened to the industry in the intervening decades. How did we go from the strange and clever problem solving of the Digitrend to a nearly endless stream of Black Dialed Divers based on the same rudimentary outline?  The answer to that question is far outside the scope of this review, but it’s worth reporting that we may indeed be nearing an end to the watch market being saturated with straightforward vintage inspired sports watches. This is ...

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Roundup: The Panels of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Twelve X Zach Kazan Jun 10, 2024

Roundup: The Panels of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco

One of the highlights of the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco last month was the plethora of amazing programming that took place throughout all three days of the event. The Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason had an ideal room dedicated to creating the kind of panel content that we’re fond of making here at Worn & Wound. Fortunately, we had a slew of incredible industry professionals on site to glean some great insights! Here’s a roundup of panels from the big show. Time on Screen: Dunkirk with William Wood In celebration of the release of their most ambitious watch to date, William Wood CEO Jonny Garrett joined Zach Kazan and Kyle Snarr on stage at the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair to talk about Nolan’s film and share the story of the Dunkirk Watch. The new limited edition watch was made in partnership with and in tribute to the Massey Shaw, a London Fire Brigade Fire Boat that played an important role in evacuating British forces from Dunkirk Beach in the early stages of World War II. Introducing the Christopher Ward Twelve X Zach Kazan sits down with Mike France, CEO of Christopher Ward, to chat about one of the absolute highlight watches of the show: The Twelve X. For the 10th anniversary of the SH21, new for 2024, Christopher Ward has debuted the Twelve X. Not their first skeletonized watch, they claim to have removed even more material than ever before, exposing parts of the movement that have previously been hidden. The Twelve X will be an open series watch, de...

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Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case Worn & Wound
Hublot Introduces Apr 10, 2024

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case

Today, Hublot has announced not one, but six new versions of the Big Bang Integrated Time Only, and here’s the kicker - this time they’re 38mm. When the first Hublot watch was launched by Carlo Crocco all the way back in 1980, it stood out. Totally different from anything else on the market, it supposedly took Crocco and his team at MDM Watches three years to develop the rubber strap for the first Hublot. The juxtaposition of a high-end gold case and an integrated rubber strap defined that first watch and “The Art of Fusion” would become the signature of a brand defined by experimentation. It was in that spirit that Hublot released the first Big Bang on a bracelet in 2020 (just a few weeks before the pandemic, as it turned out). I remember the prevailing sentiment at the time being slight surprise that a braceleted Big Bang didn’t already exist and a bemused “okay” before everyone got very distracted by the world shutting down. That first 42mm Big Bang Integral Chronograph was followed up by a 40mm Big Bang Integral Time Only two years later. Those first two Integral models featured skeletonized sapphire dials and sporty red and black highlights. Like many large Hublot releases, they each felt decidedly masculine. Today’s new Big Bang Integrated Time Only releases are much more sedate, swapping sapphire skeleton dials for solid ones finished in somewhat more traditional polished blacks or sunray blues. With their more neutral designs and smaller case siz...

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First Look – Grand Seiko Goes Hand-Wound With the New Birch Bark SLGW003 and SLGW002 (incl. Video) Monochrome
Grand Seiko Goes Hand-Wound Apr 9, 2024

First Look – Grand Seiko Goes Hand-Wound With the New Birch Bark SLGW003 and SLGW002 (incl. Video)

In 2020, for its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko unveiled two milestones: a new automatic, hi-beat movement named calibre 9SA5 and a new collection of watches with an updated design language known as Evolution 9. It took us and the watch community a bit of time to understand the importance of this move by the Japanese watchmaker; […]

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The Bulgari Octo Finissimo “Sketch” is Back Worn & Wound
Bulgari Octo Finissimo “Sketch” Mar 15, 2024

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo “Sketch” is Back

Back in 2022, Bulgari released the “Sketch” version of the Octo Finissimo to equal shares of acclaim and, well, the opposite. Those watches celebrated the Octo’s tenth anniversary, and this year they’re doubling down with new sketches that take the idea to the next logical step on the occasion of Bulgari’s 140th anniversary. We like to poke fun at the anniversaries here as a somewhat craven excuse for brands to sell us new stuff that we certainly don’t need, but in the case of the Octo it’s really worth celebrating. This watch has a profoundly unusual design within a subset of watches that grew in esteem by orders of magnitude over the last several years, while existing in a larger context within an industry that put more value on classic, vintage inspired designs than bold, contemporary ones during the same time period. For the Octo to rise during this period was somewhat unpredictable, and speaks to the enduring quality of the design and of the watch itself. The follow up to the original Sketch watches is sure to garner plenty of attention, and would seem to put most of it on the caliber that makes the Octo possible.  Like the first Sketch LEs, the watches seen here are likely to be somewhat divisive. The original watches, both a chronograph and time-only version, had dials that appeared to be sketched by hand. They took the familiar layout of the Octo but presented it in an illustrated format. These new references (time only models in steel and rose gold,...

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Pilot Automatic Vs. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Fratello
Zenith Pilot Automatic Vs IWC Mar 3, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Pilot Automatic Vs. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown here on Fratello. Please get yourself ready because today’s confrontation promises to be a good one. In 2022, IWC introduced a new version of its Pilot’s Watch - the Mark XX. Then, last year, Zenith took it one step further with a complete revision of its Pilot line. That’s […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Pilot Automatic Vs. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX to read the full article.

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Omega Updates the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Apollo 8” SJX Watches
Omega Updates Jan 17, 2024

Omega Updates the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Apollo 8”

Six years ago, Omega introduced the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Apollo 8”, a distinctive take on the Speedmaster Moonwatch featuring a Moon surface-patterned movement and dial. Basically an amalgamation of the all-ceramic Dark Side of the Moon (DSOTM) with the Moonwatch, the model has now undergone a significant mechanical upgrades with a new METAS-certified calibre, while preserving essentially the same design. Initial thoughts The original Apollo 8 was noteworthy for challenging the traditional concept of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. While it had the same movement and dimensions, the materials, styling, and finishing were entirely different. Visually, it was a major departure from the familiar Moonwatch. The latest version sticks to the same aesthetic, so it doesn’t bring much novelty in terms of appearance, save for a rocket-shaped seconds hand. But it does have an upgraded movement, essentially the next-generation Moonwatch movement finished in the Apollo 8 style. As is often the case with Omega, incremental improvements to existing models are a means to explore new concepts or technologies, which in the case of the original Apollo 8 would have been the textured lunar-surface finishing. This new model would have been more significant if a more developed or advanced version of the texturing had been applied, setting it apart more obviously from its predecessor. Priced at US$14,300, the upgraded Apollo 8 falls sits at the middle of the price range for the cera...

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H. Moser Collaborates with MB&F; for Only Watch Stunner Pandamonium Streamliner Worn & Wound
H. Moser Collaborates Sep 5, 2023

H. Moser Collaborates with MB&F; for Only Watch Stunner Pandamonium Streamliner

Earlier this summer, Only Watch revealed their 2023 collection of watches set to be auctioned later this year in Geneva to raise funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy and neuromuscular diseases. Participating brands from across the industry create unique, on-off watches (or clocks), some of which you can read about right here, and a few even took the opportunity to collaborate. While most of the watches were revealed, a few brands play things a little closer to the vest. One such collaboration was revealed this week during Geneva Watch Days, with Maximilian Büsser and Edouard Meylan introducing the H. Moser x MB&F; Streamliner Pandamonium.  These two brands have a history working together, and tout a creative relationship that has given us co-signed watches in the past within MB&F;’s Legacy Machine collection, and H. Moser’s Endeavour collection. Their latest effort builds on themes we’ve seen them explore in the past, done in entirely new ways, within the H. Moser Streamliner. The watch is called the Streamliner Pandamonium, and it features a unique, one-off movement that sets a minute repeater around MB&F;’s flying buttress, with the hammers of the chiming mechanism being ‘operated’ by a small, hand-crafted panda DJ figure. You can also get a read on the time via the hands set around the 2 o’clock position, similar to the execution on the LM101 done with H. Moser. The case is rendered in steel for its resonating qualities, and is sized at 42mm in...

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New McGonigle Ogma for 2024: No Watch, No Photos, No Sketches, No Launch, But First Editions Already Nearly Sold Out – Welcome To the New Normal Quill & Pad
Aug 25, 2023

New McGonigle Ogma for 2024: No Watch, No Photos, No Sketches, No Launch, But First Editions Already Nearly Sold Out – Welcome To the New Normal

There are no photos (either real or CAD) nor sketches of the McGonigle Ogma, and there’s been no public announcement; however (surprise, surpise!), most of the watches have already been reserved. How times have changed. In the words of Dorothy to her dog in The Wizard of Oz after being sucked up by a tornado, "Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore."

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Martin Green’s Top Ten Favorite Watches of Only Watch 2023 Quill & Pad
Jul 26, 2023

Martin Green’s Top Ten Favorite Watches of Only Watch 2023

By auctioning off unique pieces explicitly made for Only Watch, Luc Pettavino has given the brands a platform to go all in and all out. Many brands seize this opportunity to take their work to an even higher level, while collectors lust over the opportunity to own a unique watch from their favorite brands. Here are Martin Green’s Top Ten, and the last one, which is his absolute favorite!

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Only Watch 2023: Lots 33-48. All the Colors of the Rainbow (This Year’s Auction Theme) Quill & Pad
Jul 6, 2023

Only Watch 2023: Lots 33-48. All the Colors of the Rainbow (This Year’s Auction Theme)

Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet. This year the theme is rainbows: some brands ran with that superbly, while others took a different path. Here Ian Skellern highlights Lots 33-48.

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The Horological Society of New York unveils six lots for their 2023 charity auction Time+Tide
Jul 4, 2023

The Horological Society of New York unveils six lots for their 2023 charity auction

While the field of watch enthusiasts, collectors, and buyers is rapidly growing, the number of watchmakers is unfortunately not. Most young children continue to aspire to be astronauts, Navy Seals,  athletes, or Tik Tok influencers. It would be a very surprising moment for a parent to hear their child say: One day, I want to … ContinuedThe post The Horological Society of New York unveils six lots for their 2023 charity auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Rolex Shock Drops New Daytona Commemorating 100 Years of LeMans Worn & Wound
Rolex Shock Drops New Daytona Jun 12, 2023

Rolex Shock Drops New Daytona Commemorating 100 Years of LeMans

This weekend marked the 100th running of the 24 hour race of Le Mans at the Circuit de la Sarthe in France, and Rolex took full advantage of the occasion with the release of a new Daytona with a dial that recalls the now famous ‘exotic’ dial, aka Newman dial, of older references. This release is surprising for a few reasons, and may even offer some insight to what we might expect from Rolex moving forward. We’ll get to all that, but in many ways, this is the Daytona that enthusiasts have been asking for since the late ‘80s – it’s the ‘greatest hits’ watch, perfectly capitalizing on the the new Daytona chassis released just earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, which we went hands-on with right here. First and foremost, Rolex is not in the habit of dropping new releases outside of their regular yearly cadence. We last saw it with the release of the Deepsea Challenge in late 2022, the first commercial Rolex to tout their RLX titanium material. While that watch could be considered something of an outlier, given its rather extreme nature, the Daytona is another story entirely. This new reference, the 126529LN officially, joins the new collection as a regular production model. That reference number ends in four characters that have never appeared together in the Daytona family, the 29 indicating a full white gold case and bracelet, and LN, or Lunette Noir, meaning it sports a black Cerachrom bezel. Vintage Rolex Daytona reference 6263 with exotic dial The firs...

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