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New: Citizen Series 8 870 Mechanical First Anniversary Limited Model
Citizen's series 8 is the brand's answer to the hybrid sports watch category. Introducing the 870 Mechanical 1st Anniversary limited edition.
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Citizen's series 8 is the brand's answer to the hybrid sports watch category. Introducing the 870 Mechanical 1st Anniversary limited edition.
Quill & Pad
Elizabeth Doerr was (and remains) one of Baselworld’s staunchest supporters. For purely selfish reasons, of course: the fact that practically everything was in one location made her life as a watch journalist so much easier. Here she reflects on why she misses Baselworld and why Watches and Wonders isn't enough to maintain balanced journalism.
Time+Tide
It’s been an eventful week so let’s get right into it. To kick things off, I spent the weekend with Maurice Lacroix down in Miami to celebrate the launch of their latest evolution of the Aikon: the Aikon #tide. The Aikon #tide is both a playful and principled release, a colourful daily wearer with an … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In Miami with Maurice Lacroix, MoonSwatch mania, and W&W; excitement! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Although the name LeJour conjures up the idea of something fleeting and trendy, that portrayal of the brand couldn’t be further from the truth. The brand’s rich history began back in the 1960s when they also cased watches for names as big as Heuer and Yema. If you’re looking for a bargain in the world … ContinuedThe post The LeJour Seacolt Diver is a modern dive watch with vintage swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Scottish brand's in-house type specialist takes us along on her journey from art student to watch designer.
Time+Tide
If you’re old enough to remember the song Video Killed the Radio Star, you’re also old enough to remember a time when most people wore quartz watches. This was a time of breakdancing, big hair, even bigger shoulder pads, and every song on the radio having at least one saxophone solo. The 80s might have … ContinuedThe post Why this is the golden age of mechanical watch collecting appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Singapore Watch Club founder, Tom Chng brings us through the Club’s six year journey and the 18 unique Special Edition Cartier timepieces the Club has issued in partnership with the maison to mark the occasion.
SJX Watches
A member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), John-Mikaël Flaux is no stranger to automata and clocks. His most recent creation however, is something smaller and wearable – an automata wristwatch, the Homage to Al-Jazari. The watch pays tribute to the Elephant Clock, a fascinating and exotic timekeeper conceived by the 12th century inventor and mathematician, Ismail al-Jazari. While not an exact replica of the original – the ancient clock was powered by water and gravity – Mr Flaux’s creation artfully captures the theme of the clock with a jumping half-hour automata and an equivalent 24-hour day night indicator, complemented by miniature painting on the front and back. Initial Thoughts The Homage to Al-Jazari is undeniably intriguing, both mechanically and visually. The watch has a brave design that is striking. The complexity of the dial means legibility isn’t the best, or even decent, but that’s besides the point. While its key complication, a jumping half-hour mechanism, is not technically complex, the integration of the thematic elements into a cohesive display modelled on the ancient clock means the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. In other words, the Homage to Al-Jazari lives up to its name. But it is also a missed opportunity. The jumping automata display would have been perfect if paired with a simple chiming function, though that would’ve significantly increased the complexity, due to the requirement of a base ...
SJX Watches
Urwerk founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei visited Singapore in September 2019 and we had lunch with at the Marriott along Singapore’s Orchard Road, sitting outdoors to enjoy Singapore’s uniquely tropical weather. Thanks to an inspiring afternoon with the pair, it was just after that lunch that I first mooted the idea of a UR-100 with a cover over the front. I sent over this awful mock-up I created on Photoshop, which was clearly inspired by the UR-103, an old favourite of mine. After a back and forth with Felix and Martin, and a few long pauses in between, an idea took shape. In June 2020, I further refined the idea in an email to the pair, “I have an idea of a watch inspired by the ancient Mayan astronaut myth… something like an UR-100, but with metal covering more of the face… with an engraved Mayan pattern…”. The starting point A serious watch with a sense of humour is something that appeals to me, so the rationale for the concept was tongue in cheek: Urwerk makes sci-fi watches, so a Mayan motif was perfect since it was once believed the first person in space was a Mayan astronaut. The myth arose from a misinterpretation of the motif on a Mayan ruler’s sarcophagus (you can find out more about supposed ancient astronaut by reading up on “Kʼinich Janaabʼ Pakal“). Not long after, I elaborated on the idea and suggested a yellow gold case with an emerald cabochon in the crown. Unfortunately that was not to be (although some green did make it ...
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Citizen releases a new model to their The Citizen Mechanical Cal. 0200 lineup with a model inspired by Japanese armour. Here is the Ref. NC0206-18E.
SJX Watches
One of Citizen’s earlier dive watches, the Challenge Diver of 1977 is rated to 150 m – but it evidently can withstand more than pressure under water. In 1983, a long-submerged example was discovered at Long Reef Beach in Sydney, Australia. And despite being encrusted with barnacles, it was in working condition according to Citizen. Now Citizen revisits the Challenge Diver – and memorialises the barnacle-covered watch – with the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m “Fujitsubo”. The new watch retains the retro design and dimensions but has been thoroughly upgraded with modern materials and mechanics, including a titanium case and movement resistant to magnetic fields of up to 16,000 A/m (or about 200 Gauss). Initial thoughts While the new launch is headlined by an interesting story, the watch itself is appealing, especially for its slim proportions and affordability. At 41 mm wide and 12.3 mm tall, the Fujitsubo is one of the thinnest dive watches in this price segment. In fact, it’s even thinner than the vintage original. And it’s also slimmer than its most obvious rival, the Seiko 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS”, which is about 1 mm taller. And it will also be lightweight. As is convention for most of Citizen’s mid-range dive watches, the case is Super Titanium, the brand’s proprietary alloy that has undergone surface hardening, leaving it five times more scratch resistant than steel. Visually, the Fujitsubo is simple and almost gene...
Time+Tide
Consumers in this day and age are all too familiar with the finished products of watch manufacturers thanks to digital watch media, whether from publications such as ours, social media, or forums. But, it is not always the case that consumers are offered a final product that leverages the origins of its design. To celebrate … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After notching up several world records for the thinnest watch in various categories, Bulgari had yet to claim the title of the thinnest mechanical watch. Piaget took the title in 2018 with the announcement of the AUC, which became commercially available in 2020. But the Roman jeweller has finally bested its rivals with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, which is an astonishing 1.8 mm tall from crystal to case back, making it the thinnest watch on the market today (and also the thinnest in decades). It’s 0.2 mm slimmer than the Piaget AUC. The Ultra is certainly less, but is it more accomplished? Initial thoughts Trumping the previous title holder by a sizeable margin of 10%, the Octo Finissimo Ultra is an impressive achievement, even though the race to the be the flattest has been ongoing for a long time. For starters, the Ultra does well in terms of design. While the design is based on the long standing Octo Finissimo, it doesn’t take away from its appeal. The Ultra is the sportiest watch among the thinnest of ultra-thin watches, with striking contemporary lines. And it is very much a watch of today, literally. The large barrel ratchet wheel is engraved with a QR code providing access to an NFT artwork that accompanies each watch. It is tacky both as an idea and also up close, but at a distance the pattern of the code could pass for a decorative motif that fills up what would otherwise be a wide open space. Keeping current But the burning question is how did Bulgari’s ...
Revolution
The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green is a strong contender to be the ultimate three-hand watch.
Quill & Pad
Montblanc’s earliest history is in pen making, and each of the lifestyle products that followed – watches, jewelry, leather, fragrance, and more – in some way acknowledges the foundational writing instrument. The new Meisterstück leather collection is no exception, paying very evident respect to the pen whose name it shares as Nancy Olson relates.
Hodinkee
Not to sound like a broken record, but Bulgari just broke another record.
SJX Watches
Perhaps Bulgari’s signature men’s wristwatch, the Octo Finissimo is an ultra-thin wristwatch that has spawned a range of watches and variety of complications, including a perpetual calendar and minute repeater. Now the Italian jeweller marks a decade of its bestseller with a pair of limited editions that pay tribute to the original design – literally. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary and Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary both feature “pencil sketch” dials that essentially reproduce the initial drawings of both models penned by Fabrizio Buonamass Stigliani, the design chief at Bulgari’s watch division. Initial thoughts The twin anniversary editions are only modest tweaks on the standard design, but accompanied by equally modest price differences, which makes them appealing alternatives for someone who likes the monochromatic look of the standard models but wants a little extra. The “sketch” dials are clever and amusing, though not entirely new since similar drawing-inspired dials have been done in the past by Nomos and Fortis. Still, they have a whimsical appeal. Price-wise, the two anniversary editions aren’t much more than the standard models. The automatic is €800 extra, while the chronograph actually costs the same as the standard version. Being identical to the standard models in size and material, both anniversary editions will feel the same on the wrist, light and sleek. I fin...
Time+Tide
With a marketplace that thrives on the emotional connection between consumer and brand heritage, anniversary milestones have become a prominent moment for manufacturers to celebrate their creations. Typically we see a storied reference executed in limited numbers, with a new special dial, and, perhaps, a precious case metal, with a commemorative caseback or winding rotor. … ContinuedThe post LIVE PICS: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra is the new thinnest mechanical watch in the world at 1.8mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
After taking a hiatus during the last two years of the pandemic, E.C.Andersson returns with a successor to their sporty series. Introducing the Calypso II.
SJX Watches
Sticking to a tried-and-tested formula, Seiko has united a trio of its bestselling dive watches into a thematic collection. This year’s offering is the Prospex Save the Ocean Special Editions, a trio of dive watches (the refs. SPB297, SPB299, and SPB301) featuring textured dials modelled on the surface of polar ice. As with past Save the Ocean editions, part of the proceeds from the sale of the new models will be donated to ocean conservation organisations. Initial thoughts Easy to like because of their vintage-inspired style and affordability, Seiko’s “Modern Re-interpretation” dive watches have just gotten better with the new trio, thanks to interesting, textured dials in pleasing colours. Even amongst the countless iterations of the same models, the new arrivals still manage to distinguish themselves, especially the models in light blue and white, both uncommon colours for dive watches. Interestingly, the new watches might look identical to past versions save for the dials, but they are not. All three feature steel cases that have a “super-hard coating”, which was absent in earlier models, explaining why the new models cost more than last year’s military-style special editions. While Seiko’s schedule of frequent new launches are a little tedious to keep up with, the proliferation of such watches is probably justified, simply because they are mass produced and affordable, making them easily accessible for almost anyone. As such, new versions in co...
Time+Tide
Whilst many will argue as to what exactly constitutes a vintage watch, more and more collectors are looking to include quartz, from analogue to classic LED and LCD models. For myself the pinnacle, and one that remains constantly on my watch list, is the Seiko Twin Quartz. These watches offer outstanding accuracy, far surpassing most quartz … ContinuedThe post The vintage Seiko offering crazy accuracy that’s still flying under the radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This isn’t going to be a very objective piece, I’m afraid. That’s because I’m a huge admirer of Hublot’s sports-related marketing and their decision to snap up footballing superstar Kylian Mbappé as a brand ambassador is another great example of what they do. Let me explain. Top watch brands are invariably desperate to reinforce their … ContinuedThe post Hublot’s signing of Kylian Mbappé as an ambassador reflects the brand’s sporting power appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Midwestern microbrand Haven is back with a new model. And it doesn't take an All-Seeing Eye to see that the Chilluminati is pretty cool.
Time+Tide
Flicking through the Guinness Book of Records, some achievements leave you furrow-browed with a mix of bewilderment and awe. Whether it’s the “most T-shirts removed while heading a football” (21) or “the world’s tallest hat” (4.8 metres), there’s no denying these are remarkable accomplishments. But while the dedication of such record breakers is beyond reasonable … ContinuedThe post Why I was wrong about the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Longines have often produced interesting pieces for its Heritage collection, and the new Legend Diver is no exception. The new gray colored dial comes as an addition to the growing colorways namely blue, beige and burgundy of the model. It gives fans of the LLD more options to choose from, without deviating from the iconic design of the watch. The watch is priced at S$3,590.00.
Quill & Pad
In 2021 MB&F; celebrated the tenth anniversary of the Legacy Machine collection and, fittingly, introduced a brand-new model to mark this milestone. While that watch is definitely increditastic, Joshua Munchow takes us on a journey through all the models, looking at key points and how the concept has evolved over the years before ending up with MB&F;'s piece for the anniversary, LMX.
Deployant
Introducing a new independent - Vincent Depraz. A new Tourbillon Classic Souscription Edition - a hand made watch limited to 10 pieces in two dial variants.
Revolution
Louis Vuitton takes horological flex to a new level with a Tambour watch that illuminates on demand and another that features a sublime jump hour display.
Time+Tide
There has been a lot to cover of late and leading up to Watches & Wonders Geneva there is plenty more on the horizon. So today I want to highlight two new Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers that recently launched, as well as the new Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe that launched earlier today. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers and Greubel Forsey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
It’s all about the people! And right now people in Ukraine and refugees in its border areas are displaced – and, even worse, hungry. Some people in the watch community are stepping forward to help, and all of us at Quill & Pad are united in support of their effort: the #WatchFamForUkraine Solidarity Auction takes place from March 25 to March 28, 2022. Get the details here!
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