Hodinkee
Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers 'La Musique Du Temps' Collection (And Other New Pieces From Les Cabinotiers)
Vacheron Constantin announces 11 unique chiming watches all at once.
Results for Hublot Unico (HUB1240 / 1280)
2,212 articles · 198 videos found · page 76 of 81
Hodinkee
Quill & Pad
Alchemists Cu29: A Great Watch Overshadowed By Woo?
Alchemists Cu29 launched at Baselworld 2019 with a watch boasting some incredible details and a unique case material, but also pushing some questionable claims. Joshua Munchow digs into the new watch to find the truth of the matter.
SJX Watches
Vault Introduces the V2 in Red Carbon-Ceramic Composite
Vault, a Swiss watch brand founded in 2013 by Mark Schwarz, has just unveiled the V2+ Red CC, a unique, left-handed variant of its unusual approach to time-telling. Inspired by a bank vault’s time lock mechanism – Mr Schwarz was both a police officer and banker earlier in his career – the brand’s watches feature a time display based on a planetary gear system, where each hour marker is actually a functioning planetary gear that travels around the dial. All of that ingenious mechanics is courtesy of UhrTeil, the complication and manufacturing outfit led by Andreas Strehler. Novel case material The new V2+ Red CC differs from earlier models with its left-handed crown and novel case material. The case is made of carbon-ceramic composite, which gives it the properties of both its constituent materials – the lightness and strength of carbon as well as the hardness of ceramic. Basically, ceramic is layered in between sheets of carbon, which is then submerged polymer and baked an autoclave to create the block of composite material. As a result, it retains the distinctive striped pattern of carbon composite. The tonneau-shaped case has a complex, multi-faceted design made up of five parts and is curved on two axis, allowing it to sit well on the wrist. It measures 39mm by 46.7mm and 15mm in height, which is thick but a necessity. That’s because the movement is essentially an automatic base calibre with a planetary display module on top. And as in the realm of such e...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex Snoopy Watch Review: The Timex X Peanuts Weekender Collection
Enthusiasts of any hobby tend to get overly serious when it comes to their passion. The Timex X Peanuts Weekender collaboration allows watch enthusiasts to take a step back from the hobby and not take themselves too seriously.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction – Complications and Enamel
Happening in just over a week, the Phillips Hong Kong watch auction is a 321-lot event spread over two days. Notably, the first session is an evening sale titled First, made up of 52 watches consigned by their original owners. The offerings in First, as well as the main sale the next day, are diverse array ranging from a possibly unique Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon with a black dial, and a wonderfully elegant Vacheron Constantin minute repeater (pictured above) – both consigned by the first owners no less – to vintage sports Rolex watches and Omega Speedmasters. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002G Another original owner Patek Philippe grand complication, the ref. 5033P Here we cover some of the complicated watch highlights, while other vintage and sports watches will be featured in a subsequent article. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. First, lot 833 – Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph One of the best values in the segment of perpetual calendar chronographs is a pre-owned Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. This example is in platinum, with a largish 43mm case that is suited to today’s taste for larger watches. The layout is traditional for a perpetual calendar chronograph, though the calendar windows are slightly small relative to the size of the dial. But this has a decorative flourish few of its peers have: the moon phase is a hand-engraved disc of white gold that features a tiny...
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces the Astronomic Souveraine Grand Complication
Just days after the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue made for Only Watch 2019 sold for a record 1.8m Swiss francs, the watchmaker has unveiled the regular production version of the same – the Astronomic Souveraine. While the last unique F.P. Journe produced for Only Watch eventually made into production in a significantly different form, the Astronomic Souveraine is largely the same. Save for the steel case, dial colours, and movement decoration, the Astronomic Souveraine is identical to the unique Only Watch creation. Inspired by a pocket watch Francois-Paul Journe produced in 1987 – itself inspired by the earlier works of Breguet and George Daniels – the Astronomic Souveraine has 18 complications, shown on two faces on each side of the case. These include showing both mean solar time and sidereal time, as well as an annual calendar, equation of time, tourbillon with remontoir d’egalite constant force mechanism, and a minute repeater. Despite its complexity, the indications are remarkably well-presented, and furthermore, can all be adjusted via a single crown. Though the case is 44mm wide – the largest wristwatch ever by F.P. Journe – it remains notably compact at just 13.8mm high, helped in part by his ultra-thin minute repeater mechanism with flat hammers and gongs. As with most F.P. Journe watches, the dial on the front is solid gold, as are the bridges and plate of the movement. The 758-part cal. 1619 is equipped with double barrels, which are partly visible ...
SJX Watches
Raul Pages Introduces the Arabic Calligraphy Cloisonné Enamel
Independent watchmaker Raul Pages debuted his first wristwatch in 2016, after several years spent restoring watches and clocks at Parmigiani and then the Patek Philippe Museum. Limited to just 10 watches, the Soberly Onyx wristwatch contained a reworked and highly decorated Cyma movement from the 1950s. The very last of the series, however, is strikingly different from the rest. The Arabic Calligraphy pièce unique is a custom commission from a European client, an important collector of both vintage and modern watches who already has two other Soberly Onyx watches. The client wanted a cloisonné enamel dial bearing the phrase ٱلْـحَـمْـدُ للهِ, or alhamdulillah. Most commonly used by Muslims but also by Arabic speakers of other denominations, it translates as “thank God” or “praise be to God”. Raul recruited Jean-Luc Peter, an enamel artisan who has also done work for Hermes, to create this dial. Elegant and striking in form, the phrase is executed in a mustard enamel and outlined in fine gold wire, as is traditional for cloisonné enamel. It sits agains a vivid green background that complements the rose gold hands and case beautifully. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard Soberly Onyx, which has a polished onyx stone dial. That means the case is 40mm in diameter and a slim 9.3mm high. Inside is a movement that started out as a Cyma 586K from the 1950s, but one that has been heavily modified by Raul. The bridges were reshaped and ...
Time+Tide
Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic One sold for a ridiculous amount at Only Watch 2019
If history is anything to go by, we shouldn’t have been surprised at news coming out of Only Watch 2019 that Tudor’s entry into the charitable auction, the Black Bay Ceramic One, had sold for a staggering 350,000 CHF ($515,000 AUD). In fact, for Tudor’s third pièce unique entered into Only Watch to do anything … ContinuedThe post Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic One sold for a ridiculous amount at Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Auctions: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic One For Only Watch 2019 Sells For CHF 350,000
A unique Tudor fetches serious money.
Quill & Pad
5 Skeleton Timepieces Revealing Mechanical Beauty For Only Watch 2019
Only Watch by Christie’s will be held in Geneva on November 9, 2019, and a surprisingly high number of skeleton watches are among the 50 unique pieces for sale. Skeletonizing is a technical and aesthetic art that allows for fascinating insights into the movements’ inner workings. Which pieces might you be interested in bidding on?
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Chanel J12 The Inseparables “Only Watch”
To mark the 20th anniversary of the J12 this year, Chanel gave its signature timepiece a microscopic yet significant makeover, both inside and out, while preserving the distinct identity that has contributed to the watch’s two-decade success. For Only Watch 2019, the brand created J12 The Inseparables – the very first examples of the new-generation J12 to roll off the line, distinguished by a unique case and bracelet finish. And the pair also happen to be one of the most affordable lots in the auction. The brand has approached these unique iterations in the same manner it approached the revamp – with subtlety and restraint. The pair of watches are both rendered in smooth, matte ceramic, with a tone-on-tone dial. And both are equipped with a special black-coated execution of the new Caliber 12.1 produced by Kenissi, the movement maker that is part owned by Chanel. Matte finish The most apparent difference between the Only Watch pair and the standard version is the matte finish of the ceramic case and bracelet; the standard models have a glossy, polished finish. While the J12 is primarily a women’s watch, especially in this smallish size, the finish of the Only Watch editions come across as more masculine – and also more refined and discreet. And as it always has been, the case measures 38mm. It is made entirely in-house by the brand, thanks to its ownership of G&F; Chatelain, a reputed case and buckle manufacture, whose clients include Richard Mille, MB&F; and Bel...
Time+Tide
Breguet has nailed it for Only Watch 2019
Only Watch 2019 is now less than 24 hours away from kicking off, and Breguet has really knocked it out of the park with their entry in this year’s charitable auction. The Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2019 is, I think we can all agree, a handsome timepiece, and that’s largely because the pièce unique … ContinuedThe post Breguet has nailed it for Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: My Six Favorite Watches At Only Watch 2019
Unique pieces from the who's who of the watch industry, all for charity.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 3652 Minute Repeater “Golay Fils & Stahl”
The most intriguing watch in Phillips’ upcoming Double Signed auction is by far the smallest watch in the sale – it’s the Patek Philippe ref. 3652 that’s just 31mm in diameter. In fact, the ref. 3652 is a dead ringer for a Calatrava ref. 96 from the 1930s. But – the ref. 3652 is a unique reference produced during a brief period when Patek Philippe is known to have made a handful of remarkably interesting, one-off timepieces. All were powered by vintage movements, and some were vintage watches freshly re-cased. One example is the ref. 3651, a chronograph re-cased in the late 1980s of which only a handful are known. Most of these watches are now in its museum; some of them were made for Philippe Stern himself, who was then running the company alongside his father, Henri. The ref. 3652 was one such reference, created as a custom watch for a client. It’s a minute repeater made in 1985, but powered with a ladies’ watch movement from the early 20th century. And it has a fired enamel dial signed “Golay Fils & Stahl” – which was a watchmaker itself a century before. At 31mm, the watch is tiny by any standard. That’s compounded by the fact that the lugs are set widely apart, making the case seem even smaller. If not for the slide on the case, it would easily pass as a ref. 96, the quintessential Calatrava model that Patek Philippe produced for some four decades until 1973. But the ref. 3652 is neither a ref. 96 nor a vintage watch, which is why it’s inte...
Time+Tide
High Rollers – 3 of the most expensive timepieces at Only Watch 2019
With Only Watch 2019 now just a few short days away, there’s a veritable smorgasbord of gorgeous piece-unique watches and timekeeping devices heading to the auction block. In fact, there are 50 watches in total taking part in this year’s charity auction, with all funds raised going to the research of Duchenne muscular dystrophy. And … ContinuedThe post High Rollers – 3 of the most expensive timepieces at Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Mineral wealth with the stone dial Omega Seamaster
Exotic stone dials have always been popular with watch collectors, not only for their stunning beauty but also their typical rarity and the unique patterning from stone to stone. This same dial technique has been used in the two examples of stone dial Omega Seamaster 300s, a classic dive watch that is typically considered to … ContinuedThe post Mineral wealth with the stone dial Omega Seamaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Battle-ready beginnings of the Blancpain dive watch
Editor’s note: Blancpain have been looking into their rich trove of dive watch archives to great success recently, reviving a number of classics that we have covered here, and here, as well as producing a stunning unique piece for Only Watch 2019 that James took a closer look at. But for those who might be … ContinuedThe post Battle-ready beginnings of the Blancpain dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Project Planning with the Patek Philippe Ref. 5212A-001 Calatrava Weekly Calendar
Patek Philippe unveils a unique new Calatrava Weekly Calendar for those who have their upcoming year clearly in view.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Breguet Type 20 for Only Watch 2019
Breguet’s contribution to the most recent Only Watch auction in 2017 was a unique, enlarged version of its inventive in-line perpetual calendar that had the calendar indications arranged in a column vertically across the dial. Though clever and unusual, the watch was probably too esoteric and classical for current tastes, and it sold for 110,000 Swiss francs, just 10% above the high estimate, reputedly to a discerning collector in Australia. This year’s upcoming Only Watch, however, includes a very different Breguet that should sell for a multiple of its estimate. The Type 20 for Only Watch 2019 is essentially a spot-on replica of the two-register aviator’s chronograph Breguet supplied to the French military from the mid 1950s – exactly the type of watch that is desirable now. Specifically, it’s a remake of the first generation Type 20, which was marked “5101/54” on the case back, denoting the order number, “5101”, and the year of 1954. More specifically, it’s based on the Type 20 made for the French air force, distinguished by equal-sized sub-dials; watches for the naval air arm had oversized minute counters. Named after the French military specification for pilot’s chronographs, itself derived from the Second World War German air force chronograph design, the original Type 20s were produced by a variety of watchmakers, including Vixa, Dodane, and Auricoste. Breguet examples, however, are the most valuable. Note that “Type XX” refers to the same...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ‘Only Watch’ ref. 6300A in Stainless Steel
Long the record holder for the most valuable watch at the biennial Only Watch charity auction, Patek Philippe has probably outdone itself this year. For Only Watch 2019, it’s put together a unique version of the most complicated wristwatch it’s ever made, the Grandmaster Chime ‘Only Watch’ ref. 6300A-010 in stainless steel. Now in its 14th year, Only Watch is an auction of one-off timepieces donated by brands, with proceeds going to support medical research. Patek Philippe has claimed the title of the top lot in nearly all Only Watch auctions, including the most recent in 2017 that saw a Patek Philippe ref. 5208T in titanium sell for 6.2 Swiss francs. And in the auction before that, in 2015, the Patek Philippe ref. 5016A in steel sold for 7.3m Swiss francs. But the steel Grandmaster Chime for Only Watch this year will probably exceed those results, albeit by a margin that’s hard to predict. The buyer of “The Only One” will be the special one By most metrics it’s the ultimate watch – not only is it the most complicated wristwatch ever made by Patek Philippe, it is also the most expensive timepiece in the current Patek Philippe catalogue. And then there’s the style of the watch, which is catered exactly to current tastes. In fact, the elements of the watch are so perfectly suited to today’s fads in watch collecting that it might be a clever and discreet in-joke – a bit of humour from the serious Geneva watchmaker. The size and complexity of the Gr...
Time+Tide
The only Barakuda you’ll ever need – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Only Watch
With Only Watch 2019 now just a mere 11 days away from kicking off, we thought we’d take a look at Blancpain’s Only entrant – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda. The unique piece from the storied Swiss marque is, rather obviously, based on the standard Fifty Fathoms Barakuda. However, the Only Watch Barakuda sports very … ContinuedThe post The only Barakuda you’ll ever need – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Only Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
5 Longines heritage timepieces for every occasion
Longines offer a great many different styles of timepieces across five unique collections in their portfolio of wristwatches. And while each of the five collections provides a distinctive interpretation of what a timepiece should offer, in my opinion, the Swiss watchmaker’s Heritage collection resonates the most with horological enthusiasts. These are the timepieces that hark … ContinuedThe post 5 Longines heritage timepieces for every occasion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Bexei ‘Vox Vinum’ Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch
The only independent watchmaker in Hungary, Aaron Becsei, or more properly Becsei Áron, has created a distinctive style for his eponymous brand, Bexei – ornate, Gothic engraving; a double-ellipse case; and top-class movement finishing. His latest creation, a custom and unique grande and petite sonnerie wristwatch named Vox Vinum, is all of the above, except in a more conventional round case. Created at the behest of an important, Asian collector of independent watchmaking, the grande sonnerie took more than a year to complete. It is the first, and so far only, striking watch ever produced by Bexei. The Vox Vinum The grand sonnerie A grande et petite sonnerie – French for “large and small strike” – is widely regarded as the pinnacle of mechanical watchmaking. Also known as a clockwatch, it strikes the hours and quarters en passant, as they pass. And it is also a minute repeater, being able to chime the time on demand. Modern day grande sonnerie wristwatches are exceedingly rare – the number of watchmakers having produced one can be counted on both hands. The most notable makers of grande sonnerie wristwatches are Patek Philippe with its Grandmaster Chime, F.P. Journe with the recently discontinued Sonnerie Souverain, and Greubel Forsey as well as Vacheron Constantin, both of which use the same base movement in their respective grande sonnerie wristwatches. But the pioneers in the field were Philippe Dufour in 1992, and followed shortly after by Gerald Gen...
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 62: Talking Auctions With Eric Ku And A First Look At Only Watch 2019
From the most sought-after vintage Rolex to unique pieces being auctioned for charity, we've got it all this week.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith El Primero One-Off In Platinum For Phillips
A unique, precious El Primero to celebrate the watch's 50th anniversary.
SJX Watches
Rolex Unicorns Part I – Ref. 4113 Split-Seconds Chronograph
If I had a million dollars, or maybe two, to buy a Rolex chronograph, I could perhaps buy one of the five unique “Zenith” Daytonas in platinum, a Datocompax “Jean-Claude Killy” (as Davide Munari did), a “Paul Newman” Daytona (not), or a ref. 4113 split-seconds. Of the many ways to spend that much money on a Rolex chronograph – and not any other complication – the ref. 4113 is the most unusual, interesting and horologically complex. At the same time, the ref. 4113 was also a dead-end for Rolex, because it never furthered development of the split-second chronograph and instead relied on standard chronographs for all its auto-racing activities. Produced in 1942 in a run of just 12 watches – with case numbers “051’313” to “051’324” -the ref. 4113 is the only split-seconds, or rattrapante, chronograph ever made by Rolex. Phillips will soon sell ref. 4113 with case number “051’318” – the watch pictured here – at its upcoming November watch auction. Ref. 4113 with case number “051’318” The Valjoux 55 inside The racing connection Though formal documentation as to its origins no longer exist or are unknown, the story behind the ref. 4113 is by now familiar thanks to research over the years as examples emerged at auction. In 1991, a pair of these emerged at Christie’s, at its Geneva and London salerooms respectively. The first, with case number was “051’313”, was sold in May 1991 at Christie’s in Geneva for 82,500 Swiss fr...
Time+Tide
IWC ranked as top Swiss watch brand by WWF for reducing environmental impact, celebrates on tiny floating house
In their latest joint venture, IWC Schaffhausen and surfboard designer and entrepreneur Hayden Cox have teamed up to create a unique concept – the world’s first floating surfboard design studio. This very Australian activation was also designed to highlight the brand’s recent efforts to reduce their environmental impact, by – for example – using 90 … ContinuedThe post IWC ranked as top Swiss watch brand by WWF for reducing environmental impact, celebrates on tiny floating house appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune
Hermès, as a brand, usually has an elegant, light and sometimes whimsical house style that makes it unique amongst luxury houses. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune unveiled at SIHH at the start of the year exemplifies the house style, although the case is thicker than ideal. Functionally, the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune is a straightforward watch – it shows the time, date and phases of the Moon in both the Southern and Northern hemispheres. But the execution of the time and date is striking and clever. Orbital moon phases The two are essentially orbital displays, as each is on a sub-dial mounted on a rotating, central carousel. The carousel take 59 days to make one complete revolution around the dial. But each sub-dial also rotates on itself as the carousel turns. As a result, each sub-dial is always the right way up regardless of its position. Both sub-dials also double up as the moon phase indicator, with position of each sub-dial indicating the age of the Moon in each hemisphere. And in a bit of whimsy, the hemispheres have been inverted, with the Southern on top and Northern below. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune with a meteorite dial The inventive display was built by Chronode, the complications specialist founded by Jean-Francois Mojon, which has a diverse body of work that includes Urban Jurgensen’s P4 movement, the MB&F; LM2, and the constant force tourbillon of IWC. The display module by Chronode. Photo – Hermes Chronode conceived and builds the ...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch”
Tudor is taking part in Only Watch for the third time, but the watchmaker has arguably created its most unique timepiece to date for the biennial charity auction. While Tudor’s earlier Only Watch were variants of existing models, first the Heritage Black Bay One and then the Black Bay Bronze One, the Black Bay Ceramic One is wholly different from all current (and past) watches, it is a piece unique. Announced just a few weeks before the similarly all-black Black Bay Chrono Dark limited edition, the Black Bay Ceramic One is essentially Tudor’s signature dive watch, but with a black ceramic case. Though Tudor does have ceramic watches in the line-up, namely the usually forgotten Fastrider Black Shield, the material has not been used for the bestselling Black Bay, until now. Though the watch is entirely unique, the look is a fairly common one – all-black, everywhere. That being said, it’s an attractive one, especially for a dive watch like this. The dial is done in different textures and shades of black for legibility. So the markings on the dial are printed in glossy black lacquer to distinguish them from the matte black dial surface. And the Super-Luminova is also black, or more specifically standard Super-Luminova with pigments added for colour, which diminishes the green night-time glow substantially. While that’s not a practical look for an actual dive watch, it is a cool look for a “desk diver”. The bezel continues the shades-of-black colour schem...
Quill & Pad
Harry Winston Project Z13: Material Intent
Joshua Munchow is a sucker for a moon phase and anything unique about the indication that makes it extra special. In the case of the Harry Winston Z13, the moon phase is an interesting shape: a dodecagon (12 sides) featuring a shuriken symbol (like a ninja throwing star). And its case is made of Zalium, a proprietary material Joshua explains here.