Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80, Now (Finally) In 35mm
Honey, I shrunk the PRX.
Results for Lang & Heyne
2,663 articles · 235 videos found · page 76 of 97
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
The New Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces a New Luminescent Composite Case Material
I’ve long been on record as an appreciator and fan of the wilder designs from Bell & Ross. Few watch brands, in fact, have a wider design purview than B&R;, which has fairly traditional aviation inspired watches at one end of the spectrum, bronze skull watches on the other, and their standard square case instrument watches right in the middle. The LUM series, an ongoing collection of watches that use luminescent material in a manner that can only be described as Maximalist, sits somewhere near the skulls, I think. Watch enthusiasts, of course, are notable in that we tend to love inventive applications of lume, but bold designs centered around the stuff still feel fairly niche. The new BR-X5 Green Lum takes the brand’s experiments with lume to a new level, giving the case itself the full lume treatment. Seeing the press release for this watch, I knew immediately that it was destined to be a new object of obsession for me, perhaps not unlike my beloved Multimeter. It takes the still relatively new BR-X5 platform, the brand’s most contemporary and forward looking case design, and gives it a visual and material transformation via the brand’s LM3D composite. This material is made from quartz fibers which are completely photoluminescent, giving off a pronounced green glow. The case is a combination of this material and DLC coated titanium, which effectively acts as a shell with large pieces of LM3D at the top and bottom of the case. The dial is matte black and serves to...
SJX Watches
Seiko Debuts a Smaller, Thinner Prospex Marinemaster
Seiko has remade its high-end dive watch with a new, slimmer movement and consequently more compact watch. Still known as the Prospex Marinemaster, the new model is available in three variants (SJE097, SJE099, and SJE101), all sharing a design heavily influenced by the brand’s first-ever dive watch, the “62MAS” from 1965. Initial thoughts Marinemaster models long been solid but chunky watches, with examples including the Hi-Beat 36,000 limited edition or the forest green model from 2021. A more compact iteration enhances its appeal, especially with the recent popularity of smaller, vintage-inspired dive watches. The “62MAS” model from 1965. Image – Seiko The design still echoes the original 62MAS, particularly in the dial and bezel layout. However, the new model, especially the light blue variant, gains a more contemporary feel with the horizontally striped dial along and the engraved markings on the bezel. The patterned dial easily brings to mind other sports watches, so it does seem a bit derivative, but Seiko’s position as a maker of dive watches is strong enough that this still looks and feels like a Seiko. The latest Marinemaster is priced at US$2,800, reflecting Seiko’s gradual upmarket move over recent years. This places it squarely within the mid-tier dive watch segment also occupied by brands such as such as Doxa or Longines. While it remains a compelling option at this price, it is no longer such a clear value proposition relative to the competit...
Deployant
New: IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 AMG and Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One™ Team
IWC Schaffhausen releases the latest iteration of their Pilot’s Watch, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41. The Pilot’s Watch now comes with tachymeter scales dedicated to it’s long time motorsports partners AMG and the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team. The AMG variant in Titanium and the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team in their proprietary Ceratanium®Read More
Worn & Wound
A new Kurono Chronograph Shows How the Brand Develops New Refinements with Each Release
There was a time not too long ago when news of a new watch from Kurono Tokyo could nearly break the internet. OK, that’s an exaggeration, but as the brand was building up a head of steam, it felt like loads of hype accompanied every new announcement. This was the peak of pandemic era watch speculation, and Kurono was in the middle of it. Over time, the frenzy has cooled and Kurono announcements are no longer the object of such intense scrutiny. I get the sense that Hajime Asaoka and his team are just fine with that – this is a brand that has instituted layers of “anti flipping” safeguards to their ordering process, after all. But a curious thing is happening: as the hysteria for Kurono’s limited editions has waned, the watches themselves seem to be getting better. Not just in terms of their aesthetics (that’s a matter of opinion, of course) but in the way they’re made and their ergonomics. It would be incredibly easy for Kurono to just keep cranking out new colorways, but every new release is indicative of subtle refinements to the brand’s approach, applying new techniques with every watch. Their latest, the Chronograph 3 “Hisui”, is a great example of the way the brand has made little changes and continues to experiment while still hewing close to what has become a distinct house style. Kurono’s chronographs have evolved into colorful “sector” designs over the years, and this example has what I think is a very appealing mint green colorway that...
Time+Tide
An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299
Full disclosure, I have meant to have these two watches go head-to-head in battle on the site for quite some time. Fanboys like myself have long drawn comparisons between Rolex and Grand Seiko in an attempt to showcase how well-made and competitive the Japanese manufacturer’s offerings are in comparison to the behemoth that is The … ContinuedThe post An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
YEMA Launches a Kickstarter to Support a Manufacture Caliber in New Superman Bronze References
Watch brand YEMA has long been synonymous with French elegance and their latest model, the Superman Bronze CMM.10 is no exception. Utilizing crowd-funding through Kickstarter, YEMA has produced a limited edition watch that is as architectural in design as it is reliable when it comes to performance. Available in two sizes (39 and 41mm) and two dial color options (gradient blue and lacquered black), potential customers have the choice of a watch that best suits their individual preferences. Both dials are a striking contrast to the bronze, adding a balance of warm and cool tones that pair well with the rugged design of the Superman model. The watch itself has undergone a few changes from the original Superman models, most notable in the subtle upgrades to the dial, including the iconic “shovel” second hand has been replaced with a lollipop sweep hand, creating a more harmonious overall design. The timepiece now proudly exhibits French engravings and features the new “MANUFACTURE FRANÇAISE” signature thoughtfully placed at the 6 o’clock position. This change reflects YEMA’s updated brand positioning, resulting from their decision to internalize the manufacturing of components for the CMM.10 caliber. Speaking of the CMM.10 caliber, this movement promises 70-hours of power reserve and is rated to -3/+5 seconds per day is made from non-magnetic alloys to keep it from being impacted by magnetic forces during daily use. YEMA says that they worked in collaboration wit...
Quill & Pad
Time Travel at Sea: How the SS Warrimoo was in Two Different Days, Two Different Months, Two Different Years, Two Different Seasons, and Two Different Centuries – All at the Same Time!
The SS Warrimoo would be long forgotten but for an unusual story of how the ship managed to navigate to a position in which it simultaneously existed in four different hemispheres and two different centuries. Ian Skellern shares the ships story here.
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Opens Le Restaurant in Geneva
In the world of independent watchmaking, François-Paul Journe is perhaps the first amongst equals. But beyond his eponymous brand, Mr Journe has long been something of a gourmand who invested in restaurants in the past. But now his most ambitious culinary project has opened: F.P. Journe Le Restaurant. Located on Geneva’s posh Rue du Rhone, the restaurant is helmed by Dominique Gauthier, formerly the chef at Le Chat-Botté, the Michelin-starred Geneva institution in the lakeside Beau-Rivage hotel. A shared passion Anyone who has been inside an F.P. Journe boutique might have noticed wine bottled especially for F.P. Journe from Chateau Seguin, whose owner is a friend of Mr Journe. Similarly, the new restaurant reflects Mr Journe’s personal relationships and passions. The new restaurant is actually Mr Journe’s third foray into dining, amongst his previous endeavours was a steakhouse. But F.P. Journe Le Restaurant is undoubtedly conceived to be something else entirely. Besides the reputedly CHF1.5 million investment in the location, Mr Journe has recruited one of Geneva’s star chefs. Dominique Gauthier was the head chef at the Le Chat-Botté for some 30 years, clinching a Michelin star along the way. All smiles A historical address This new restaurant is inside a 19th-century building at 49 Rue du Rhône. More notably, the building once housed Bavaria, a renowned German restaurant popular in the early to mid decades of the 20th century. In its prime, the establishment...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: The 02SERIES Field Watches from Studio Underd0g Avoid the Sophomore Slump
As hard as it is to create a certifiable hit watch in the cutthroat independent watch space, it’s perhaps even more difficult to deliver on a follow up. The sophomore slump is a real concern, and I imagine many indie darlings have thought long and hard about how to make good on the promise of an exciting, popular debut. Studio Underd0g burst onto the scene a few years ago with colorful chronographs that conjured a surprising variety of culinary delights. Everything from pizza, to blueberries, to their iconic watermelon chronograph, pleasing watch enthusiasts with designs that are pure fun. They’re also quite unapologetically transgressive, and part of the exciting thing about Studio Underd0g is the idea that we’re seeing a brand that exists at an affordable price point write their own rule book. It’s a sensibility that is more attuned with streetwear, or contemporary art, than old-school watchmaking. $900 Hands-On: The 02SERIES Field Watches from Studio Underd0g Avoid the Sophomore Slump Case Stainless steel Movement Sellita Manual Winding SW210-1 Dial Multi layer full lume/sapphire Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 37 x 46mm Thickness 12.6mm Lug Width 18mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $900 So the question really becomes: where do you go artistically after an initial success that’s objectively kind of weird? Thinking it through, a brand like Studio Underd0g has two options. They can double down, get stranger, an...
Quill & Pad
New Release: Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin and Maestro 3.0 Chronograph in Pink Gold with Chocolate Brown Dials and Straps
After an unusually long hot summer in Europe, autumn/fall has finally arrived in the Northern Hemisphere, and to celebrate, Gerald Charles has released two new models – a Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin and a Maestro 3.0 Chronograph, both in pink gold with chocolate brown dials and straps.
Time+Tide
Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast
This is less a recommended reading, and more so a recommended listening or viewing. A long time coming, schedules finally aligned and our Editor Zach Blass was able to join Peri and Ben, two thirds of the trio behind the burgeoning Wrist Check Podcast, to talk watches. Wrist Check explains: “Wrist Check is a weekly … ContinuedThe post Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A History Lesson With the Military Watches of Bulova
Bulova has a long history of providing watches to the US military. When the US Armed Forces put out a specification for watches, Bulova was one of the most prominent brands to answer the call. We’re happy to offer a wide range of Bulova military watches in the shop, and we’ve paired up each of them with a nylon ADPT strap for a limited time. Let’s take a closer look at these watches, along with their perfectly-paired straps. Bulova has a long history of providing watches to the US military. When the US Armed Forces put out a specification for watches, Bulova was one of the most prominent brands to answer the call. We’re happy to offer a wide range of Bulova military watches in the shop, and we’ve paired up each of them with a nylon ADPT strap for a limited time. Let’s take a closer look at these watches, along with their perfectly-paired straps. The post A History Lesson With the Military Watches of Bulova appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Watches Review: The Independent Brand's History and Modern Milest
Oris started out as a maker of mechanical watches - first for the waistcoat, then for the wrist - in 1904. After a long period of growth in the first half of the 20th Century, the Swiss company underwent a series of ownership and management changes that threatened to forever change its direction and sacrifice its independence. Successfully steering its way through the storms of those Quartz Crisis years, Oris emerged stronger, now a staple for value-conscious enthusiasts of Swiss-made watches. Its modern pillars, like the Big Crown Pointer Date, which traces its existence all the way back to the 1930s; the Aquis family of sporty diver’s watches; and the vintage-influenced Diver Sixty-Five, have all helped to build the brand’s modern identity. In this comprehensive guide to Oris Watches, I explore the brand’s inspiring history, its significant watchmaking milestones, and the standouts from its modern collection. Foundations to Growth Oris, one of the watch world’s few remaining major independent brands, traces its history back to 1904, when it was founded in Hölstein, in the German-speaking Swiss canton of Basel-Landschaft, by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian. Cattin and Christian, both natives of the Swiss watchmaking town Le Locle, purchased the recently closed Lohner & Co. watch factory as the base of their new company, which the co-founders named “Oris,” after the Orisbach tributary, a brook near the factory. Initially, the company made pocket watches ...
Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g Unveils their Second Collection, a Contemporary Take on the Field Watch (with Plenty of Lume)
Studio Underd0g has been charming watch enthusiasts with their colorful chronographs for the last few years, and at long last they’ve announced their follow up effort. This is a somewhat tall order – their chronos were hits in the collector community like few other watches can claim to be, largely a result of their total originality and the brand’s commitment to fully exploring their own design language. Their “Watermelon” chronograph is perhaps their most well known watch, but they’ve released many other equally colorful and exciting chronos, most of which are similarly inspired by the vivid colors of our favorite foods. “Mint Chocolate Chip” and “Strawberries and Cream” immediately come to mind, but their chronograph has been available in a rainbow of appetizing colors since its inception. With their new collection, Studio Underd0g is approaching color in a different way, and via a different platform, that’s simultaneously a little more traditional and also, in some ways, more transgressive. The 02Series Field Collection from Studio Underd0g is their take on a classic field watch, with the hypothetical design brief being that the British Ministry of Defense has asked Studio Underd0g to create a reliable watch for the armed forces fighting in World War II. This, of course, is a familiar idea, and it’s a strange coincidence that this seems to be the season of contemporary British brands providing their own unique twist on something that’s existe...
Worn & Wound
MICROMILSPEC is Back with a Watch Made in Collaboration with the Norwegian Air Force
While not necessarily a household name, MICROMILSPEC is well-known in military and law enforcement circles across Norway, the United States, and soon Canada. A Scandinavian brand that’s dedicated to creating performance-tested, long-lasting timepieces built for the specific needs of its customers, MICROMILSPEC’s brand ethos isn’t to sell volume – it’s to become an invaluable tool on the field or during active duty. Because of this, many of MICROMILSPEC’s watches have been bespoke one-off designs for the commissioner’s specific purpose; not necessarily for commercial sale. Crafting these highly specialized pieces has always been the backbone of the brand, but MICROMILSPEC has since started to catch the eye of collectors who want to own one of their watches without, for example, risking their lives or working for an intelligence agency. Because of this, MICROMILSPEC has opened some of their designs to the general public for a limited-edition release. One such watch is the new HERCULES. Built in partnership with the Norwegian Air Force’s 335 Squadron, the HERCULES is dedicated to the aircraft that shares its name. To build a watch that has as much ingenuity and power as the esteemed aircraft, the Norwegian watchmaker worked in conjunction with the Squadron for over a year to exacting specifications. The result is a 100-piece limited edition that’s as technically precise as it is wearable. Every inch of the HERCULES has an intentional – and functional – q...
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Live From The Premiere Of Talking Watches With Ed Sheeran
It was a Talking Watches a long time in the making, and a great night to share with the community.
SJX Watches
Business News: Only Watch Reveals Details About Financials and Research
After a unnervingly long wait, Only Watch issued a detailed statement explaining its activities and financials in response to allegations on social media about financial improprieties. While some of the allegations were unfounded, some were useful questions that had to be asked. Fortunately, the statement by Only Watch is not only comprehensive but also promises more to come (once the audited statements are prepared by KPMG Monaco in response to a recently promulgated law in the principality where Only Watch is based). More is certainly needed, but for now the response from Only Watch will quiet reasonable observers. Initial thoughts When the accusations about wrongdoings at Only Watch first emerged on social media, I was sceptical because by and large I believe in Only Watch (I even bought one of the Only Watch timepieces several years ago, albeit an inexpensive one). That said, I could see why such questions came about. The event has become extremely high profile and its founder, Luc Pettavino, a celebrity seemingly dressed in over the top jackets all the time. This all unsurprisingly led to criticism. Still, the fundamental purpose of the auction felt like a genuine cause. I did think some of the questions raised on social media were germane. I expected a swift response from Only Watch, but that took what seemed like a long, long time. Now the reply has arrived and it contains sufficient information that I am reassured, as I think most observers will be. Amongst the not...
Worn & Wound
The Many Handwinding Flavors of Hamilton
There’s something special about hand winding a watch. Sure, automatics are great, but the great thing about them is that they don’t really need you to keep doing their job. The most interaction you’d have with the crown on your automatic is maybe setting it should the power reserve run out over a long weekend. Handwinding watches require a bit more work, but that few minutes of winding in the morning before your day begins is a great opportunity to interact with your favorite watch. Romanticism aside, there are some key physical benefits as well. Most importantly being that since there’s no automatic winding rotor section needed for the movement, handwinding movements tend to be thinner and able to be housed in smaller cases that may wear better on your wrist. One iconic brand that’s still actively embracing handwinding watches is Hamilton. With the huge success of their Khaki Field Mechanical, it’s clear that enthusiasts still want handwinding watches, especially when they’re as solidly built, packed with features, and as functional as the Hamiltons below. Let’s take a look at three handwinding Hamiltons in the Windup Watch Shop and what makes them special. There’s something special about hand winding a watch. Sure, automatics are great, but the great thing about them is that they don’t really need you to keep doing their job. The most interaction you’d have with the crown on your automatic is maybe setting it should the power reserve run out over ...
Deployant
New: NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39
The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 39 is a versatile and elegant sport watch that combines the minimalist style and Bauhaus sensibility of the brand with a robust and water-resistant case. The watch features a thin and smooth stainless steel case with long,
Quill & Pad
Yamazaki 12-Year-Old Japanese Whisky: Why Pricing has Gone Through the Roof
Yamazaki 12-Year-Old from Japan is a whisky that Ken Gargett has loved every time he has had the chance to try it. The bottle he sampled for this piece was actually one from the back of his cupboard, which he has been sitting on for far too long. When a mate saw it, he implored him not to open it. But Ken of course did and shares the experience with us here.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Grand Seiko Seasons Winter “Taisetsu” SBGA415
Raman Kalra initially preferred the Grand Seiko Skyflake case shape over the Snowflake, and found the light blue dial attractive. However, after considering Grand Seiko more seriously, he looked at a range of references. and it didn’t take him long to find the SBGA415 Winter.
Worn & Wound
ochs und junior Take Inspiration from a Classic American Design Duo with the mese 2.23
New from ochs und junior, a new execution of their “mese” time and date watch, as part of their more value oriented “ochs line” of watches. Ochs und junior has been a point of fascination here at Worn & Wound for a long time. They work within a truly distinct design language that’s held throughout their (growing) product line, and offer rather ingenious solutions to sometimes complex watchmaking problems. Their watches have a simplicity to them both in terms of their aesthetics and mechanics that is really appealing to particular type of watch nerd. They work as an antidote, almost, to the “Can you top this?” game of dizzying and often needless complexity that often plays out in the world of high end watchmaking. With their ochs line, the brand offers key watches from their catalog in predetermined colorways at a reduced cost, giving collectors who wish to forego the brand’s extensive customization options a chance to own one of their pieces at a reduced cost. The latest addition to the ochs line pays tribute to Ray and Charles Eames, an American design team that almost certainly has had some influence on ochs und junior over the years. The Eames name is perhaps most associated with the iconic Eames Lounge Chair that was first introduced and manufactured in the 1950s by the Herman Miller furniture company. Eames furniture designs were notable for their use of molded plywood splints, which replaced the more commonly used metal splints that were popular in ...
Quill & Pad
Patron en Lalique Serie 3: Sensational Tequila in a Sensational Decanter
So, what does a squillion dollar tequila taste like? The color is a deep gold/bronze, not dissimilar to an aged rum. The nose is both powerful and mellow, with dried fruits, orange rind, cinnamon, hints of nutmeg, honey, even cassis and Christmas cake. The palate is quite stunning, as smooth and seductive as one could imagine.
Worn & Wound
Inside Vortic as they Launch the Colorado Watch Company
The story of American watchmaking is long, complex, and undertold. It’s regrettably easy to consign the period of this country’s history as a global titan in watch production to an appendix in the greater history of watchmaking writ large. But the fact remains that the United States, in the 19th century and well into the 20th, produced millions of timepieces at an incredible pace, developing manufacturing technologies that would scale and improve both here and abroad. We don’t make watches at such a scale anymore, but there is a growing movement in the American watchmaking space that looks to that period as inspiration, and as a reminder that if it can happen once, it can happen again. The Vortic Watch Company is one of the key players in a new age of watchmaking in America, and they’ve just announced a major step forward that redefines what the company does, and where it might be heading in the future. I have always thought of Vortic as one of the bedrock companies in the burgeoning microbrand space. They are a mainstay at Windup Watch Fairs, and carry many of the hallmarks of the most successful and well established microbrands. The watches are original and purely their own thing, their team is accessible, and the identity of the brand itself is well considered and established. But it would be incorrect to think of them as purely part of the pack, or even as part of an upper tier of the pack given their longevity and success. They occupy a truly unique niche th...
Worn & Wound
Bremoir Introduces the Eastern, a New Watch Inspired by a Los Angeles Art Deco Classic
Since its completion in 1930, the Eastern Columbia Building has long been a symbol of the Art Deco movement and the timeless elegance that period in architecture came to represent. Located in downtown Los Angeles, this historic landmark is characterized by its intricate terracotta facade adorned with colorful geometric patterns and stunning clock tower, which is crowned by a rotating neon clock that has become a symbol of the building. In this way, the building hasn’t just become a symbol of Los Angeles’ history of prosperity and beauty, but of the bygone elegance that still inspires brands today, nearly a century later. One such brand is Bremoir. Having previously designed their Lexington based on the Chrysler Building, Bremoir has a longstanding history of being inspired by the golden age of Art Deco. Now, with the release of their limited-edition Eastern model, we are seeing a truly delightful interpretation of the Los Angeles landmark. Released today, the first color in the new Eastern collection is called Pacific. Aptly named, the dial is tonally bright blue (similar to the terracotta of the building’s facade) and navy (a nod to the Pacific Ocean), handsomely balanced within a stainless steel case and complemented by the brown leather strap. The two tones of the dial are accentuated by gold accents for the hands, numerals, and hour markers. It is here that we see the small details which resonate with the Art Deco design of the Eastern Columbia Building. You have...
Quill & Pad
Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2012: A Complete Champagne with Great Balance and Length – Reprise
For Ken Gargett, the Veuve Clicquot 2012 La Grande Dame is a special champagne. It walks the tightrope between dense and coiled power with delicacy, finesse, and elegance. Great intensity, finally balanced acidity, early complexity, and it is still wonderfully youthful with a long future ahead of it. But what interesting story lies behind this fantastic champagne?
Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega Symbol: Where Does it Come From and What Does it Mean?
The Omega symbol that accompanies the brand’s classical logotype is one of the most recognizable emblems in the watch world, up there with Rolex’s hallmark coronet and Patek Philippe’s venerable Calatrava cross. But what exactly does Omega’s iconic hieroglyph actually symbolize, and what is its meaning in the context of the Swiss manufacture’s watchmaking history? Put simply, the symbol that has long been identified with the Omega brand is a stylized version of the 24th and final letter in the Greek alphabet, called Omega. (If you went to a college that had fraternities and sororities, this probably isn’t news to you.) Much like its counterpart at the beginning of the Greek alphabet, Alpha, the symbolism of the letter Omega has been interpreted various ways throughout history. As “the first” letter, Alpha has become associated with leadership and dominance, i.e., an “Alpha Male” or an “Alpha Dog.” Omega, as the final letter, has been known to connote greatness in its own way, representing the culmination or ultimate expression of a great effort or undertaking. The Biblical connotation of “I am the Alpha and the Omega” - i.e., the beginning and the end, as spoken by Jesus in the Book of Revelation (below) - has also lent weight to the concept of Omega as representing the end of an epoch or, in more ominous but perhaps more horologically relevant terms, the End of Time. So what does all this have to do with a watch brand? Let’s start at the...
Worn & Wound
Breitling Rethinks the Navitimer with Smaller Sizes, New Colors, and Diamonds
While of course we are often used to a few new references here and there, Swiss brand Breitling has made an astonishing bet on their new additions to the Navitimer line-up, with a staggering 20 references released last week. Each slightly more unique than the last, the Navitimer 32 and 36 collections showcase not just the delicate beauty of these models, but the overall confidence that Breitling has on this historic design. The Navitimer has come a long way from its utility roots to now be an object of affection for Hollywood stars like Charlize Theron, who heads the campaign for this release. First introduced in 1952 as an aviation watch, the beaded darling of Breitling has since become a mainstay in the brand’s repertoire. Now, with the 32 and 36 releases, we see a softer side to the potential that exists with such a timeless design. From pale pinks to blues, greens and grays, each watch is deeply embedded in the natural world while being elevated by the artistry of Breitling’s design team. Decorated in a combination of mother-of-pearl, lab-grown diamond, and traceable gold, we see a balance between functionality and design that softens the edges a bit for an otherwise bold model. The Navitimer 36 is, no surprise here, a 36mm stainless steel case that fits handsomely on either a man or woman’s wrist. The dial of the Navitimer 36 is circumscribed with the standard beaded bezel and additional slide rule (a throwback to the aviation history of this watch). One has the...
SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils the Planetarium in DLC and Turquoise
Long a specialist in astronomical complications, Christiaan van der Klaauw (CVDK) has just unveiled an unconventional take on one of its signature models, the Planetarium Eise Eisinga Black DLC SHH Edition. Named after the 18th century Dutch astronomer Eise Eisinga, the model has been facelifted in an eight-piece limited edition for Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), a retailer headquartered in Singapore. In contrast to the typical CVDK offerings with polished cases in steel or gold, the SHH edition has a frosted steel case with a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating that contrasts starkly with the turquoise-painted dial. The centrepiece of the dial is the planetarium display at six o’clock that tracks the real-time motion of six largest planets in the solar system. Initial thoughts Practically synonymous with astronomical complications, CVDK offers a wider variety of such complications than any other brand. Amongst its best-known is the planetarium, which has the advantage of being easy to understand since it’s basically a display of planets moving around the Sun. The key point to understand about the planetarium is its rate of motion – the display moves very, very slowly because it’s a real-time reflection of the planets in the solar system. They travel slowly around the Sun, at least relative to the scale of time on Earth, so the rings of the planetarium move at an imperceptible pace. The quickest orbit is Mercury’s, which still takes almost 90 days, or three month...