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How I changed my mind about the Rolex Explorer II (and why it now rarely leaves my wrist…) Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer II Mar 8, 2022

How I changed my mind about the Rolex Explorer II (and why it now rarely leaves my wrist…)

A long time ago in a land far away (2012 / Canada), I embarked on the journey of watch collecting. I had saved enough to confidently go into the local Rolex authorised dealer and strike up a deal. Ten years ago, you could actually negotiate a discount on some of these watches, which was the … ContinuedThe post How I changed my mind about the Rolex Explorer II (and why it now rarely leaves my wrist…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates 90th anniversary of the Reverso with the retrospective “Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931” in their Sydney Boutique Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates 90th anniversary Mar 8, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates 90th anniversary of the Reverso with the retrospective “Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931” in their Sydney Boutique

Many watch enthusiasts believe that the terms “icon” is overused by watch media. Fair play. But when a collection that has been consistently beloved for decades, celebrates its 90th birthday, I believe this is one of the sure moments where it is safe to label it so. Any watch lover worth their salt has heard … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates 90th anniversary of the Reverso with the retrospective “Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931” in their Sydney Boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bremont celebrates Williams Racing partnership with the WR-22 chronograph and racing box set Time+Tide
Bremont celebrates Williams Racing partnership Mar 7, 2022

Bremont celebrates Williams Racing partnership with the WR-22 chronograph and racing box set

The 2022 Formula 1 racing season is set to kick off this month in Bahrain, and motorheads the world over couldn’t be more primed. Interest is at an all-time high, considering all the on and off-track drama from last season, the success of Netflix’s Formula 1 – Drive To Survive series, the effects of the … ContinuedThe post Bremont celebrates Williams Racing partnership with the WR-22 chronograph and racing box set appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Instead of $90,000, the Daytona now cost almost a million. I still bought it” – The crazy life of super-collector Eric Ku Time+Tide
Mar 7, 2022

“Instead of $90,000, the Daytona now cost almost a million. I still bought it” – The crazy life of super-collector Eric Ku

Outside the weather was freezing with temperatures down to minus 10°C. But in the driver’s seat of the hire car skittering over the icy roads, Eric Ku was sweating.  At stake was a huge opportunity that could kick-start his career as a watch dealer. But only if he made it in time. It was 2002, … ContinuedThe post “Instead of $90,000, the Daytona now cost almost a million. I still bought it” – The crazy life of super-collector Eric Ku appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Yosuke Sekiguchi Debuts with the Primevère Wristwatch SJX Watches
Mar 6, 2022

Yosuke Sekiguchi Debuts with the Primevère Wristwatch

The latest watchmaker to strike out on his own as a one-man operation is Yosuke Sekiguchi, a Japanese watchmaker who has spent his entire career in Switzerland. Based in Le Locle, Mr Sekiguchi spent several years at well-known complications specialists before starting on his namesake brand. His debut watch is the Primevère, a wristwatch that is uncompromising in its adherence to tradition, both in style and substance. Powered by a finely finished movement, the Primevère was inspired by the 19th century “Le Locle” style ebauche that LeCoultre supplied to several brands, most notably Jules Jurgensen. In fact, Mr Sekiguchi modelled the Primevère on an 1871 Jurgensen pocket watch that he restored and then re-cased into a wristwatch. Initial thoughts Mr Sekiguchi is one of several Japanese watchmakers working in Switzerland. Like a few of his compatriots, Mr Sekiguchi’s background is in complications and restoration. His reverence for high-quality Vallee de Joux movements of the 19th century is equally obvious in the eminently traditional layout of the movement. Mr Sekiguchi has done such a good job of recreating the original that the movement is difficult to distinguish from a 19th century calibre in both aesthetics and finishing at a distance. But up close the Mr Sekiguchi’s movement reveals a higher level of finishing and decorative extras than a 19th century original, which were often robust and workmanlike – the very qualities that drew Mr Sekiguchi to the...

How working for Time+Tide has changed my passion for watches Time+Tide
Mar 6, 2022

How working for Time+Tide has changed my passion for watches

When I was about a year into teaching myself electric guitar in high school, I couldn’t dream of a better job than working in a music store. To be surrounded by a huge array of instruments that I would usually be staring at online, tinkering with electronics and fixing vintage gear just sounded like pure … ContinuedThe post How working for Time+Tide has changed my passion for watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags) Time+Tide
Mar 6, 2022

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags)

Editor’s note: They’re the questions we all ask ourselves when contemplating a new mechanical watch: is it worth it? Is that price-tag truly justified?  Here’s Justin’s excellent piece offers some pointers on what to look for and what separates fine from very fine watchmaking. It’s a question many of us in the industry get on a … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword #3: The Grand Seiko challenge Time+Tide
Grand Seiko challenge Welcome Mar 5, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword #3: The Grand Seiko challenge

Welcome to the Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword! For those joining us for the first time, each week we will post a new crossword for you to solve with clues that revolve around a particular watch-focused theme. Knowing that most of you come to the site each day on your mobile phones, we settled on having … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword #3: The Grand Seiko challenge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch Time+Tide
Panerai Luminor Mar 5, 2022

The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch

Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. Introduction: The Panerai Luminor When … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Maurice Lacroix just dropped some affordable luxury sunshine for the wrist Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix just dropped some affordable Mar 4, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Maurice Lacroix just dropped some affordable luxury sunshine for the wrist

This week we unfortunately do not have any event recaps to share, but today a ray of sunshine dropped for immediate release – so I figured I’d quickly share the deets with you. A watch so gold in tone, Austin Power’s Goldmember would be clamouring to have this watch on his wrist, the Maurice Lacroix … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Maurice Lacroix just dropped some affordable luxury sunshine for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kross Studio Introduces the Batman Tourbillon SJX Watches
Mar 3, 2022

Kross Studio Introduces the Batman Tourbillon

A start-up that focuses on design and watchmaking, Kross Studio was founded in 2020 but has already rolled out several pop culture-themed watches, including a desk clock in the form of the Batmobile from 1989’s Batman as well as a tourbillon wristwatch modelled the Death Star from Star Wars. Timed to debut just before the premiere of the latest Batman movie, the Batman Tourbillon once again relies on the central tourbillon movement that Kross has used in its past editions, but restyles the tourbillon cage to resemble the “Bat Signal” searchlight. Initial thoughts As was the case with Kross’ earlier watches, the Batman Tourbillon excels in terms of design. Though the brand has launched different editions with the same case and movement, the Batman watch is unique in style and theme. The tourbillon cage, for instance, has been transformed into a distress signal made famous by the “Caped Crusader”. And while the earlier Death Star Tourbillon was equipped with conventional hands, the Batman watch does away with  traditional hands, rendering the it much more futuristic. That said, the Batman theme gets in the way of the movement. The Bat Signal frame that sits over the tourbillon obscures an otherwise interesting, oversized central tourbillon. This compromise would be more acceptable if the cage was more figurative and decorative as on the Death Star Tourbillon – where the cage is shaped like the titular planetary laser – which would have made the dial more aes...

This IWC Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta could be yours on Loupe This Time+Tide
IWC Ingenieur SL designed Mar 3, 2022

This IWC Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta could be yours on Loupe This

As watch enthusiasts progress in their collecting, each proceeding hunt is typically dictated by the box they want to check off next. Brand, complication, sports, dress etc. But serious horology heads often target creations based on their designers, and one designer who has attracted the hearts, minds and wallets of watch buyers around the world … ContinuedThe post This IWC Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta could be yours on Loupe This appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau Space Derby SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Mar 2, 2022

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau Space Derby

Unveiled last year as part of Hermes’ annual collection of metiers d’art watches, the Arceau Space Derby is typical Hermes with its equestrian motif, but also strikingly different since the dial depicts a jockey riding a robot horse past planets and stars. The Space Derby is actually a pair of watches, a smaller one for ladies with the dial in pink opaline glass, and a larger model for men with an aventurine glass dial that is detailed below. But both have a similar motif on the dial that was taken from an Hermes scarf designed by French filmmaker and cartoonist Ugo Bienvenu. The larger, 41 mm Space Derby Initial thoughts Hermes adapts many of its most famous scarves for metiers d’art watches. Most of the resulting dials are whimsical and subtle in a manner typical of the brand. And Hermes does more of such watches, both in terms of range as well as number, than its immediate rivals Louis Vuitton and Chanel. The diversity of its offerings with artisanal dials is impressive in both style and technique – though horses, big cats, and birds are recurring themes – but even so the Space Derby is unique. While the theme of the Space Derby is still equestrian, it is has a pop art aspect that sets it apart from the usual metiers d’art fare from Hermes. So it’s still recognisably an Hermes watches, but a bit more funky and very much different. But the Space Derby is more than just a fancy dial. As is increasingly the case with fashion and leather goods brands, it is eq...

Exhibition: Early Lange Wristwatches at Phillips Perpetual in London SJX Watches
Mar 1, 2022

Exhibition: Early Lange Wristwatches at Phillips Perpetual in London

The watch boutique arm of auctioneer Phillips, London-based Perpetual is staging an exhibition of early A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches in its Berkeley Square showroom for a week starting March 9, 2022. Made in Germany, a Tribute to the Early Lange 1 and Datograph comprises 20 examples of Lange’s best-known watches from the late 1990s to the early 2000s, including limited editions that rarely emerge publicly, making it an great opportunity for the brand’s enthusiasts to see special watches and even “grails” in the metal, like the extravagant Lange 1A. Pillars of the brand Arguably the most important Lange models, at least in the brand’s first two decades, are the Lange 1 and Datograph. Both were seminal when they each made their debuts in 1994 and 1999 respectively, helping to put the brand on the map. And because early days of the German watchmaker saw it debut a large number of small-run limited editions, the variety of watches from that period is particularly interesting. Lange 1A The rise in interest that Lange has recently enjoyed means many of the brand’s early or unusual watches are being rediscovered. As a result, the exhibition is perfectly timed. It focuses on the two landmark models, although the line up also includes other intriguing watches like the rare solid-back Saxonia. One of the best examples of the Lange 1 on show is the ref. 101.027X, which has a handsome blue-on-silver palette that served as the inspiration for the Lange 1 25th annivers...

IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Mar 1, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon

The average person thinking of Louis Vuitton will have a lot of inspiration from which to draw their impressions. Between the $4000 handbags, $700 T-shirts, and even $1000 bucket hats, the image that Louis Vuitton paints is a surprisingly broad spectrum of wealth across high-fashion and streetwear. Leather goods, fragrances, clothing and eyewear are just … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Revives Feb 28, 2022

Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976

Very much a genre that took off in the 1970s, the digital-display quartz watch was invented by American watch company Hamilton in 1970 – and positioned as a high-end watch at the time – and over the following decades various watchmakers from Europe and Asia have presented their own takes on the digital watch, though it is the latter that has come to dominate the market. One of the more memorable was the Girard-Perregaux ref. 9931 “Casquette” of 1976 that was especially sci-fi with its aerodynamic design. But after a brief production run it vanished from the brand’s catalogue until a surprising comeback last year with a unique, modernised version made for charity auction Only Watch 2021. And now Girard-Perregaux (GP) has finally taken the covers off the Casquette 2.0, which replicates the style of the original but with updated tech and materials, namely a ceramic and titanium case along with a new movement. Initial thoughts The Casquette 2.0 is a remake done well. It retains the appealing design of the vintage original, which was a good looking but dinky watch, and instead channels resources to improving the construction and functions. The new scratch-resistant ceramic case and bracelet demonstrates GP’s effort in a thoughtfully improved remake, especially since similarly priced watches tend to rely on black-coated steel. At the same time, the watch has improved in its function. It gains a chronograph and a second time zone, both of which are rudimentary but n...

Rolf Lang Combines Lalique Crystal and a Hand-Made Tourbillon in a Table Clock SJX Watches
Feb 27, 2022

Rolf Lang Combines Lalique Crystal and a Hand-Made Tourbillon in a Table Clock

German independent watchmaker Rolf Lang produces both wristwatches and clocks – including a lavish gold egg containing a marine chronometer – and he now turns to French glassmaker Lalique for his latest sculptural clock. Their collaboration resulted in the Phoenix Clock that is entirely hand engraved and equipped with a gigantic tourbillon – held aloft by a glass-crystal sculpture of a soaring eagle with wings spread. Rolf Lang Initial thoughts Like the ultra-luxe egg clock of 2018, the Phoenix is appealing for its strong design and craftsmanship. The father of independent watchmaker Marco Lang, Rolf Lang’s house style is highly decorative and rooted in 19th century watchmaking so the aesthetic means the clock is not for everyone, but it is certainly impressive for those who appreciate what it is. With its ornate decoration, the Phoenix evokes the elaborate clocks and watches made for the Chinese market in the 19th century. It has an old-fashioned style and quality that stands in contrast with most contemporary watchmaking. And the clock excels at what it does, which is to impress while sitting on a desk. Still, it manages to be different and slightly modern as a result of the to the clever use of high-contrast materials. The crystal sculpture is splendid, and the clock itself is even more attractive with the ultra-large tourbillon sitting in full view under a glass sphere. While it has a big price tag, the Phoenix is special; there are nothing quite like it ...

Time flies: The best travel watches from the last 12 months Time+Tide
Feb 27, 2022

Time flies: The best travel watches from the last 12 months

What’s travel, I hear you ask? Believe it or not, there’s an activity which means you can leave your home, and go somewhere else! Sadly, that’s an opportunity that many of us have been denied over the last couple of years due to Covid, but now the world is open again, it’s time to dust … ContinuedThe post Time flies: The best travel watches from the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vanessa Redgrave’s Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner With Explorer Dial: Should It Be The Female ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner Feb 27, 2022

Vanessa Redgrave’s Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner With Explorer Dial: Should It Be The Female ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? – Reprise

Are there special vintage watch dial variations named after notable women in a vein similar to that of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona? Nick Gould was wondering just that and researched. Finding a photo of Vanessa Redgrave wearing a Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 with "Explorer" dial in 1966, he ruefully opines that this rare model would sound so much cooler as the Rolex "Vanessa Redgrave" Submariner rather than what collectors call it now: Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner with Explorer dial.

The Chopard L.U.C Collection Upon Turning 25: Here Are A Few Highlights Quill & Pad
Chopard L.U.C Collection Upon Turning Feb 26, 2022

The Chopard L.U.C Collection Upon Turning 25: Here Are A Few Highlights

Twenty-five years – a quarter of a century – is a long time. But it’s not that long for a watch manufacturer. In 1996, Chopard's co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele proudly introduced Caliber 1.96 to the world, his brand's very first in-house movement. Here Martin Green highlights a few of his favorites from the 25-year-old L.U.C collection.

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names Time+Tide
Feb 26, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names

Last week we launched our first ever Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword, and based on your feedback you guys were really happy with it – which makes us all here at Time+Tide very happy. As promised, this is not a one and done. Each week, we will post a new crossword for you all to solve … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces Feb 26, 2022

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray”

One of the four original models that Nomos launched as its inaugural collection in 1992, the Tangente is the brand’s longest-running model, having grown both literally and metaphorically – the case has expanded from a tiny 35 mm to today’s 41 mm, while the line has grown to include dozens of models. Now the Glashütte watchmaker has just given the automatic model an update to create the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” with a restrained dial that has a subtly sparkling grained finish and a case available in either 35 mm or 39 mm. Initial thoughts Despite being a simple iteration of an existing model, the Platinum Gray is a pleasing addition to the range. The highlight is the elegant dial, which calls to mind another watch made in Nomos’ hometown, the platinum Lange 1 nicknamed “Stealth” for its silver-on-silver palette. But the Tangente is clearly different – and far more affordable – as it looks less formal with its large Arabic numerals (and ironically the typography was inspired by vintage Lange wristwatches). Like other recent Nomos watches, the Platinum Gray is a variation on a theme – essentially just a new dial – which makes it repetitive. The lack of innovation or novelty can leave Nomos feeling unexciting at times, though the strong design identity and affordability of the brand remains appealing, as does its affordability. With a price tag that starts at US$3,070 and rises to US$3,780 depending on the case size and back, the Platinum ...

For The Sake Of Sake: A Primer With Tasting Notes – Reprise Quill & Pad
Feb 26, 2022

For The Sake Of Sake: A Primer With Tasting Notes – Reprise

Basically, sake comprises rice, water, and the fermenting agent called koji, resulting in an alcoholic level that usually sits between 13 and 16 percent. And you might be interested to know that the rice used is different from the standard table rice so popular with Japanese food. Ken Gargett takes a deep dive into what sake is, what types of sake are available, and whether you should drink it warm (like James Bond) or cold. Kampai!

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Worn & Wound 10th anniversary party and zero gravity Zenith Time+Tide
Zenith Hey there Time+Tide readers Feb 25, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Worn & Wound 10th anniversary party and zero gravity Zenith

Hey there Time+Tide readers, This is Ricardo and I’m going to hijack Zach’s Friday Wind Down to broadcast this urgent message. WATCH MEETUPS ARE BACK BABY! This past week, the pandemic stars aligned and I was able to safely attend the release party for Worn and Wound’s 10-year anniversary piece; a Seiko 5 pilot watch. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Worn & Wound 10th anniversary party and zero gravity Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.