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CHEAP BASTARD: The Leff Amsterdam Tube Watch Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2022

CHEAP BASTARD: The Leff Amsterdam Tube Watch

Okay, you got us, this piece is a smidge over the $500 AUD benchmark that we hold so dear at this penny-pinching, open-your-wallet-and-moth-flies-out column. But the ROI is worth it. There are a number of colourways in Leff’s Tube Collection but for out-and-out handsomeness, we’re drawn to the steel and pearl combination. The first thing you’ll … ContinuedThe post CHEAP BASTARD: The Leff Amsterdam Tube Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Have IWC pulled off a masterstroke with teenage ski sensation Eileen Gu? Time+Tide
Hublot signed Novak Djokovic last Feb 9, 2022

Have IWC pulled off a masterstroke with teenage ski sensation Eileen Gu?

Sudden injuries, nosedives in form, squalid punch-ups in pub car-parks that are snapped by the tabloid press… Suffice to say when a watch brand picks a sporting ambassador it’s a decision fraught with risk.  When Hublot signed Novak Djokovic last August, for example, they were justified in their belief they were partnering with a “living … ContinuedThe post Have IWC pulled off a masterstroke with teenage ski sensation Eileen Gu? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 collection Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 collection Feb 9, 2022

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 collection

The Aquaracer line from TAG Heuer has become as iconic to the history of the brand as the Monaco and the Carrera, given that it can trace its roots all the way back to the 1978 Reference 488. Although the name wasn’t conceived until 2004, it’s almost impossible now to leave them out of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived SJX Watches
Feb 8, 2022

The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived

Originally announced in 2018, the Leica L1 and L2 (now renamed ZM 1 and ZM 2) wristwatches have finally made it to market. Developed with the help of a German watchmaker but very much a proprietary product, the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are both powered by variants of the same cleverly constructed calibre that is an impressive debut for the camera maker’s horological venture. Initial thoughts The Leica watch has a restrained, Germanic aesthetic with interesting details, but more importantly an interesting, thoughtful movement. Developed from the ground up for Leica, the calibre features useful complications like a power reserve and hacking, zero-reset seconds, but executed in an unusual yet practical manner. At the same time, the patented pull crown is novel without sacrificing functionality. The design of the movement is also appealing, with its partially open-worked bridges cleverly exposing the key components of the going train and complications The watch is big, but not excessively large. Considering the size of the calibre, the case dimensions are acceptable. That said, this is the limit, any larger and the case would be enormous. It helps that the styling is attractively low key. The dial and case appear simple at a distance, but reveal their details up close. The hands and hour markers, for instance, echo each other, while the crowns are finely knurled. Leica also avoided a common pitfall of watches inspired by other technically-oriented industries, no doubt thanks to Achim H...

Five takeaways from my time with the Norqain Night Sight Time+Tide
Norqain Night Sight Judging Feb 8, 2022

Five takeaways from my time with the Norqain Night Sight

Judging a brand in print before actually holding one of their offerings in hand is akin to libel. So much gets lost between the 2D images of a press release and the feeling of steel on your fingertips. Every curve and facet is a testament to what it is a brand can do, so when … ContinuedThe post Five takeaways from my time with the Norqain Night Sight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I bought a vintage Seiko pocket watch Time+Tide
Seiko pocket watch Feb 8, 2022

Why I bought a vintage Seiko pocket watch

This 1974 Seiko pocket watch ref 6602-9010, stands apart from all my other timepieces. Today the convenience of a hands-free wristwatch has seen pocket watches mostly relegated to collectors, Victorian enthusiasts, Steampunk fans or people who want engraved presentation items. Pocket watches are still available new today, from low-end pieces to mid-range Seiko (eg SWPQ002 and … ContinuedThe post Why I bought a vintage Seiko pocket watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Professor of Economics unpacks the true meaning of the Rolex price rises for 2022 Time+Tide
Rolex price rises Feb 7, 2022

A Professor of Economics unpacks the true meaning of the Rolex price rises for 2022

Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University in the US and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. A riff on Nina Simone’s classic song Feeling Good is a nice accompaniment in these opening days of 2022, particularly when it comes to the … ContinuedThe post A Professor of Economics unpacks the true meaning of the Rolex price rises for 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers – The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Open Feb 7, 2022

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers – The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Open to watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from anywhere in the world, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is an annual affair that seeks to identify the most promising watchmakers of the future. Interestingly, any candidate who has “must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction” can participate, whether or not he or she has formal training. A candidate can enter any type of timepiece – last year’s winner was 29-year old Mario Scarpatetti, whose entry was a longcase clock with a patented secular perpetual calendar mechanism of his own invention. The Kalendar Perpeten clock made by last year’s winner, Mario Scarpatetti Mr Scarpatetti won a CHF20,000 grant sponsored by Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, which is once again the prize for the YTC 2022. The winner will the selected by a jury of industry notables that include Francois-Paul Journe himself, Philippe Dufour, and Giulio Papi, who will make their choice according to four criteria: originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on fpjourne.com.  

All 4 Greubel Forsey Art Pieces: Hidden Time With Breathtaking Micro Sculptures And Awe-Inspiring Micro Mechanics – Reprise Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Art Pieces Hidden Time Feb 6, 2022

All 4 Greubel Forsey Art Pieces: Hidden Time With Breathtaking Micro Sculptures And Awe-Inspiring Micro Mechanics – Reprise

Greubel Forsey's Art Pieces are among the world’s most notable art-related timepieces and not just because they tackle the subject of art for art’s sake but also because the Art Pieces highlight the relationship horology has with art. Elizabeth Doerr doesn't think that there is any denying that the modern art of watchmaking has a synergy with art as a whole. And that is abundantly visible in these watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Feb 5, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon

Complications are where watch manufacturers display their technical prowess. Traditional functionalities such as perpetual calendars or rattrapante chronographs are, well, complicated to manufacture. But Hublot is anything but traditional, developing pioneering materials through their “art of fusion” philosophy as well as some out-of-the-box complications you will not find anywhere else. The Hublot Big Bang Unico … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mars Shinshu Japanese Whiskies: High-Altitude Fire And Ice – Reprise Quill & Pad
Feb 5, 2022

Mars Shinshu Japanese Whiskies: High-Altitude Fire And Ice – Reprise

Japanese whisky distillery Mars Shinshu is still working to establish its house style. "Searching for its soul,” distillery manager Koki Takehira calls it, and he is off to a wonderful start. At this stage, the whiskies appear to be from the elegant and complex end of the spectrum, and there is a gentle sweetness, more so than found in most Japanese whiskies. Ken Gargett takes us through the history of Mars Shinshu and shares tasting notes of a few of the whiskies.

The Collector’s Crossroads: My watch resolutions for 2022 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GMT side note Feb 4, 2022

The Collector’s Crossroads: My watch resolutions for 2022

Since I started collecting, every January 1st, after kissing my loved ones and drinking champagne, I give my watches a onceover. It’s something I didn’t realise I did until this year, when I almost dropped my Grand Seiko GMT (side note: a great way to sear an event into your mind). In that moment, I … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: My watch resolutions for 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Unpacking the quiet brilliance of Marty’s TAG Heuer in Ozark Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Feb 4, 2022

Unpacking the quiet brilliance of Marty’s TAG Heuer in Ozark

On the surface, Marty Byrde is an unlikely modern hero.  The first series of the Netflix show Ozark opens to reveal a mild-mannered financial adviser stuck in the doldrums of a strained marriage with an adulterous wife.  From there, over the next four seasons, things plummet downhill faster than an Olympic skier. When it turns … ContinuedThe post Unpacking the quiet brilliance of Marty’s TAG Heuer in Ozark appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Combines Japanese Paper Dials and Cutting-Edge Quartz SJX Watches
Grand Seiko 9F movement Feb 3, 2022

Citizen Combines Japanese Paper Dials and Cutting-Edge Quartz

Long available only to the Japanese domestic market, Citizen’s top-of-the-line quartz watches have been slowly making their way into foreign countries in recent years (although last year’s high-end mechanical Caliber 0200 was launched internationally). The latest high-end quartz model, however, is being launched globally. The Citizen Iconic Nature Collection is a quartet of lightweight titanium watches featuring dials made of traditional, translucent Japanese paper dyed in vivid, natural colours. But the mechanics are cutting edge in contrast – a solar-powered quartz movement accurate to within five seconds a year. Initial thoughts Citizen’s ultra-accurate quartz watches are largely unknown outside of Japan, but that is gradually changing with the global rollout of new models, which are crucially dressed in eye-catching colours instead of the muted dials historically found on these watches. Citizen has used washi for dials on The Citizen before, but usually in a low-key white. The new Iconic Nature quartet calls to mind high-end quartz watches from Citizen’s Japanese rival, though Citizen’s offering edges ahead, at least on paper. The solar-powered A060 inside the Iconic Nature is accurate to +/- 5 seconds per year, while the Grand Seiko 9F movement is rated to +/- 10 seconds per year. And the practicality of the A060 is boosted by a perpetual calendar as well as an “on-demand” power reserve indicator. The price tag of US$3,500 is might seem high for an...

Retro Dive Watch Specialist Squale Unveils the 1521 Montredo SJX Watches
Blancpain supplied Feb 3, 2022

Retro Dive Watch Specialist Squale Unveils the 1521 Montredo

Derived from Italian for “shark”, Squale was a maker of dive watches – as well as a supplier of dive watch cases to many notable brands – that had its heyday in the 1960s and 1970s. Like most of its peers, Squale went under during the Quartz Crisis, lying dormant until 2005 when it was revived by its onetime distributor in Italy. The reborn Squale is focused once again on dive watches, with its current lineup modelled on the brand’s historical products. The flagship is the 1521, an affordable, no-frills dive watch that’s been pared back even further with the limited-edition Montredo x Squale 1521. Initial thoughts Retro dive watches are common today, especially in Squale’s price segment of under US$2,000. But Squale manages to set it apart by having historical legitimacy unlike startup brands. The Montredo edition stands out for its minimalism. The outline of the watch has been retained, but the details have been reduced to the essentials, like the bezel with only five-minute markers. The result brings to mind the military-issue dive watches of the 1970s and 1980s, most notably the Fifty Fathoms “Bund” that Blancpain supplied to the German navy – which coincidentally had a case made by Squale. In fact, the Fifty Fathoms “Bund” relied on the very “50 Atmos” case Squale used for its ref. 1521 diver, making the Montredo edition a tidy historical throwback. Ref. 1521 The 50-piece run is a collaboration between Squale and Montredo, a Berlin-based ...

Montblanc Flexes With The New Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy Quill & Pad
Montblanc Flexes Feb 2, 2022

Montblanc Flexes With The New Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy

A fountain pen’s nib is the source of its magic. Yes, there are many beautiful pens out there but without a great nib a pretty pen is just a pretty pen. A good pen point can transform an ordinary writing experience into a memorable melding of mind and hand. Montblanc’s new Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy Lacquer is a desirable pen by any measure, not the least of which is contributed to by its 18-karat gold flexible nib.

ZACH’S MAILBAG: The best “adventure” watches under $1,000 Time+Tide
Feb 2, 2022

ZACH’S MAILBAG: The best “adventure” watches under $1,000

Editor’s Note: Often we receive questions via email and social media from our readers, and we always strive to respond to each and every one. But we recognise that many of you, even if you have yet to reach out, may be pondering the same questions. In this week’s mailbag, we  consider some of the … ContinuedThe post ZACH’S MAILBAG: The best “adventure” watches under $1,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Parmigiani La Rose Carrée: A Perfect Symbiosis Of Geometry, Nature, And Horology Quill & Pad
Feb 1, 2022

Parmigiani La Rose Carrée: A Perfect Symbiosis Of Geometry, Nature, And Horology

The Fibonacci number sequence is a discovery of mathematics and nature that has both amazed and confounded the scientific community for centuries. And it is the inspiration for the stunning engravings on the unique La Rose Carrée, a masterfully restored grande sonnerie minute repeater pocket watch made to celebrate the twenty-fifth anniversary of Parmigiani and launched to mark the seventieth birthday of the brand’s founder and master restorer, Michel Parmigiani.

THE MONTHLY EDIT: The Time+Tide team picks their favourite watch of January 2022 Time+Tide
Feb 1, 2022

THE MONTHLY EDIT: The Time+Tide team picks their favourite watch of January 2022

If you ask the Time+Tide editorial team what we do, unanimously we’ll agree that we are first and foremost watch journalists. At least for me, the mere idea of being an influencer in my role as Deputy Editor irks me. I do not want to influence your decision making, but I take pride in receiving … ContinuedThe post THE MONTHLY EDIT: The Time+Tide team picks their favourite watch of January 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: “New Old Stock” Rolex Milgauss Ref. 1019 and F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm Feb 1, 2022

Auction Watch: “New Old Stock” Rolex Milgauss Ref. 1019 and F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm

A newcomer to the world of watch auctions, Loupe This was founded by a pair of industry veterans and operates in a distinctly 21st century manner: sales are conducted entirely online, with about ten watches on the block at any one time. The offerings on Loupe This are diverse. In December 2021 it sold an example of our Habring2 Erwin “Star” for US$15,400 including fees, while the latest to go under the hammer are two interesting, long-discontinued watches from notable watchmakers based in Geneva – but otherwise radically different. One is the a Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 – in pristine, “new old stock” condition – and the other, an F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe 38 mm. Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 Produced from 1960 to 1988, the ref. 1019 was the longest-running reference of the Milgauss, the brand’s famous magnetism-resistant watch conceived for engineers and nuclear scientists. Despite the lengthy production run, the ref. 1019 is relatively rare because the model wasn’t produced in sizeable numbers for the simple reason that it didn’t sell well. In fact, Rolex discontinued the Milgauss altogether in 1988, before reviving it some two decades later. While the rarity certainly boosts its appeal, the ref. 1019 is attractive and unusual for being one of the most fuss-free Rolex “Professional” sports watch. The ref. 1019 is also the simplest version of the Milgauss, doing without the rotating bezel or “lightning” seconds hand found on earlier models. It ...

MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price Time+Tide
Jan 31, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price

There is a reason why many microbrands choose a diver as their first offering. It’s a category of watches that is not only robust but offers the brand a platform to say a lot through its design. From the bezel to the case, nothing is off limits when it comes to creating a diver. Thus, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.