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Time+Tide
The JB200 PoulPro Night Diver gets a black PVD case and full-lume dial, courtesy of Fratello.The post The new Jacques Bianchi x Fratello JB200 PoulPro Night Diver satiates destro desires at an approachable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Following the MoonSwatch “Snoopy” released in late March, Swatch continues to grow its bestselling line with the MoonSwatch “Mission On Earth”, a trio of models dressed in eye-catching colours, including one inspired by the Speedmaster “Ultraman” and another by aventurine glass. Initial thoughts The Mission On Earth editions stand out from the rest of the MoonSwatch line-up, especially the Polar Lights and Lava models. Unlike earlier MoonSwatch models in muted colours, Polar Lights features a “starry” blue dial modelled on sparkly aventurine glass, while Lava is a nod to the historical Speedmaster “Ultraman” with its orange hand. The new models continue to be priced at US$270, making them the same value proposition as earlier versions – they are affordable but feel equally inexpensive. The continual new additions to the line, however, will inevitably diminish the desirability of the MoonSwatch. While this might disappoint some early adopters, it is a logical step for Swatch, since the MoonSwatch has boosted its business tremendously, while the brand has no other product that enjoys comparable demand. Earthbound The Mission on Earth collection is made up of three watches. All are similar to earlier MoonSwatch models, but the new trio incorporate a detail Speedmaster enthusiasts will appreciate: radially arranged numerals on the sub-dials, as found on the experimental Speedmasters made for the Alaska II and III projects commissioned by NASA. Inspired by...
Monochrome
The “Baby Reef” series of Formex 39.5mm dive watches, comprised of four watches distinguished by dial colour, was presented at the end of 2023. Now, in time for summer, it gets a new and very fresh-looking reference. It’s everything the brand enthusiasts appreciate about the collection, only brighter. Here’s the Reef 39.5mm Bahama Blue 300m […]
Hodinkee
From a dressy Grand Seiko to a reasonably sized Blancpain and beyond, we've got six watches with style and quality made to stand the test of time.
SJX Watches
After unveiling the Tonda PF “No Date” earlier this year, Parmigiani continues to expand its line of sports watches, now with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph in pastel shades of grey as well a “Milano Blue”, while retaining the clou triangulaire guilloché. Milano Blue (left), Arctic Grey (middle), and London Grey (right) Initial thoughts The Tonda PF Sport is a more elegant alternative to conventional sports chronographs. The guilloché dial is decorative but sporty with “panda” registers, while the case feels relatively slim. And the new dial colours add to the appeal, both by offering more variety and a less traditional palette. The changes are only cosmetic, with the dial, case, and PF070 movement remaining the same. Consequently, the price remains rightly unchanged at CHF29,700 – a fair value proposition especially considering the specs and construction of the PF070. New colourways The latest models are fundamentally new variants of the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph released last year. They retain the same clean styling, with silvered dials and contrasting registers, a look historically associated with motor racing-inspired chronographs. The dial includes the customary applied “PF” emblem at 12 and a date window between four and five. Although it contrasts against the dial, the date display is relatively discreet and coherent design-wise. The date numerals sits vertical in a square window, presumably to evoke a dashboard instrument panel. The dial is d...
Time+Tide
This new Citizen Attesa Layers of Time strives to offer the utmost practical beauty, highly robust and functional with a captivating dial.The post This new Citizen Attesa Layers of Time is the definition of practical beauty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we will follow up on last week’s list of full-lume-dial watches with something new. First, thank you to all of you who added some great suggestions in the comments under last week’s list. There were quite a few great ones that could have easily been featured among ours. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Piaget, Parmigiani, Audemars Piguet, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Omega continues to expand the range of its famous chronograph with the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Bi-Colour. Following the recent Moonwatch with a white dial, the two-tone models are based on the Speedmaster cal. 3861 from 2021. The new pair share the 42 mm case, stepped dial, and “Nixon” bracelet, but they get a two-tone livery with gold elements in the bracelet, bezel, dial, crown, and pushers. And the gold is, of course, either one of Omega’s proprietary alloys, Moonshine or Sedna gold. Initial thoughts Before the long-overdue update in 2021, most notably with the cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch was beginning to feel dated in terms of tech and specs. The iterations introduced since the update have been spaced out well and fill logical gaps in the Moonwatch lineup, essentially creating a variant of the Moonwatch for everyone. This two-tone pair is a good example of that. Though steel-and-gold variants of the Moonwatch have existed in the past, they have never been common, or even that popular. The new models aren’t for everyone, but a useful addition to the lineup. Both are Moonwatches in terms of intrinsic features and design, but look very different from the quintessential, no-frills steel model. The two-tone models cater to someone who wants a Moonwatch with a bit more shine and a slightly retro feel. At US$18,100, the two-tone Speedmaster is a fair value proposition. It’s significantly pricier than the all-steel version, but priced in line with...
SJX Watches
Known for its military-inspired instrument watches, Sinn revisits one of its signature models with the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph. Updated in terms of the movement and case, the new 903 makes its debut with three dial variants, including a limited edition featuring an attractive light blue dial. Initial thoughts The 903 St is curious for bearing a striking similarity to the Breitling Navitimer – a result of Breitling having sold the rights to produce the Navitimer when it went bust during the Quartz Crisis. While the earliest versions of the 903 were essentially rebadged Navitimers – Sinn having bought the components from Breitling – the new 903 is a Sinn creation and also better than previous generations. The 903 St II in classic black Compared to earlier generations of the model, the 903 St II is streamlined and improved. Upgrades include removing the fiddly second crown at ten (so the slide rule is now directly operated via the bezel), the addition of luminous blocks for indices, and an applied logo. The appeal of the new 903, however, does have one caveat: the date between four and five remains, but only on the regular production version. It’s absent on the limited edition, but that arguably should have been done for all variants. The standard 903 St costs US$3,730 with a leather strap, and an additional US$240 for a bracelet. The 500-piece limited edition model is priced at US$4,170. The affordable price makes it a more attractive proposition than ma...
SJX Watches
Phillips’ upcoming New York auction, taking place on June 8 and 9, includes an unusual number of exceptional, highly complicated English pocket watches. Notably, these watches were consigned by the same discerning collector who owned the unique Patek Philippe ref. 767 with double split-seconds that recently sold for US$1.30 million including fees. All dating from the late 19th to early 20th century, the pocket watches exemplify the most prestigious type of timepiece in the world during the period, the high-quality English watch. Banker J. Pierpont Morgan, for instance, was an avid collector of English watches, and owned what was then the most complicated watch in the world, and made in England naturally. Quintessentially English That, however, was also when English watchmaking of this quality peaked. A victim of economic crises, war, and unwillingness to adopt new manufacturing technologies, high-end English watchmaking would go extinct after the Great Depression, though it has been revived in the 21st century in artisanal form thanks to the likes of Charles Frodsham. English watches in their heyday were often very complicated, but restrained in terms of movement decoration. This same philosophy would later be employed by George Daniels, who understood that quality did not equal decoration. He famously said on several occasions that a high-quality watches does not need fanciful decoration (which he implied was customarily Swiss). The auction includes five English pocket ...
WatchAdvice
We go hands on with the Bell & Ross Diver Bronze and see how the new Black & Green colourway fairs, not to mention what the patina is like! What We Love The gold hue of the bronze case The matte green dial is silky smooth Completely different look to most other watches on the market What We Don’t The strap is a little bulky for my liking The date window could be slightly larger The bronze patinas quickly Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 My first proper Hands On experience with Bell & Ross was with the Cyber Ceramic we reviewed in March this year. If you read the review (and if you haven’t, click the link and give it a read first, I’ll wait!) you’ll probably note that I wasn’t too sure on how I’d feel about an all black, square-shaped watch on my wrist. After all, I’m not that much into fully blacked-out pieces nor do I have a love for square-shaped watches. I’ve nothing against them at all, it’s just not my style…normally! But the Cyber Ceramic changed this, as after having it on my wrist for a week or more, I came to love the piece for what it was and quietly, liked having a watch on my wrist that was completely different to most other pieces out there, and not something you’ll see in the wild all that often. You’ll also note I mentioned that the watch I originally wanted to receive for the review was the recently released Diver Black & Green Bronze. Mostly for personal reasons –...
Time+Tide
Any new A. Lange & Söhne releases is exciting, even when it's just a new dial for one of the most important chronographs ever.The post The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down gets a sporty lift in blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![[VIDEO] Review: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/05/GS_TENTAGRAPH_11.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko releases a lot of watches. If you’re a cynic, this might be what you’d identify as the brand’s defining characteristic. They’ve developed a reputation for endless variants, swapping dial colors, textures, case shapes, and movements in every conceivable combination. There’s a joke about weather in New England, that if you don’t like it, all you have to do is wait, and you could make a similar one about Grand Seiko: if you’re after a particular dial/color/case combo that doesn’t exist yet, there’s a decent chance it’ll materialize eventually. But for all the SKUs in the Grand Seiko catalog, and the genuine variety you’ll find there, something was missing: a mechanical chronograph. There’s long been a line of Spring Drive chronographs (and Spring Drive chronographs with a GMT complication) but, kind of surprisingly, there’s never been a purely mechanical chrono under the Grand Seiko banner. $13700 [VIDEO] Review: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 Case High-intensity titanium Movement 9SC5 Dial Blue Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap High-intensity titanium bracelet Water Resistance 10 bar Dimensions 43.2 x 51.5mm Thickness 15.3mm Lug Width 23mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $13700 That changed a year ago with the launch of the Tentagraph, the centerpiece of Grand Seiko’s Watches & Wonders 2023, and easily their most ambitious release of the year. If you take the Kodo out of the equation, it’s almost certainly t...
Time+Tide
With a pink Comblémine dial and completely over-engineered movement, this Moritz Grossmann is a prime example of Glashütte watchmaking.The post Moritz Grossmann and Art in Time team up to benefit the Princess Grace Foundation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Five contenders for your next daily driver, from a retro-funky Zodiac to one of Unimatic's most hardworking divers yet.
Time+Tide
Dubbed the "mysterious signature hours", DWISS presents another new, but affordable way to tell time.The post DWISS doubles down on a novel time-telling display with the M3S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A brand founded by a trio of industry insiders, Kollokium debuted with a modern, brutalist-inspired timepiece distinguished by a quirky, studded dial. The follow-up, the Projekt 1 Variant “B”, features the same matte black dial that now glows blue in the dark, while retaining the cast-steel case and domed, “glass box” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts Quirky and perhaps polarising, the Projekt 01 stands out with its industrial, slightly raw aesthetic. The latest version retains the same feel as the original, but now with a more restrained palette instead of the vivid, and slightly angry, red and orange of the original. Variant “B” is a low-key black and white in the light, and then glows a cool blue in the dark. Otherwise identical to its predecessor, the Variant “B” remains affordable at CHF 2,666.66. Although there are many micro brands and establishment names competing in this price segment, Kollokium offers something different that is nonetheless a practical watch. The Variant “B” The Variant “B” is the latest iteration of Kollokium’s inaugural model, which launched last year as a 99-piece limited edition offered only to friends and associates of the founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, respectively an entrepreneur, designer, and media consultant. Variant “B”, on the other hand, is limited to 199 pieces and available to the public. Last year’s Projekt 01 “Friends & Family” that glows orange in the dark Like the o...
SJX Watches
Just released at Watches & Wonders 2024, the Rolex GMT-Master II in steel with a grey and black bezel (ref. 126710GRNR) is the newest addition to the famous line of dual time zone watches. More restrained in terms of colour, the new GMT-Master sports a 24-hour bezel with a grey-and-black Cerachrom insert. It’s still immediately recognisable, but a bit more discreet than its siblings in the collection, especially the famous “Pepsi” that is perhaps too recognisable. Like several other Rolex sports models, the 126710GRNR sports green accents on the dial and GMT hand. And the 126710GRNR is available on either a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. Initial thoughts The GMT-Master II is a almost perfect, with little that needs revision. While some expected a “Coke” GMT this year, the 126710GRNR is a solid proposition for anyone who wants a GMT-Master dressed more subtly. The bi-colour bezel is functional without being too loud unlike the better-known GMT-Master “Pepsi”. Flashy or recognisable watches sometimes attract unwanted attention, so dialling back the bezel colours is smart. In fact, the 126710GRNR may as well be more appealing than the discontinued 116710LN with its all-black bezel. Although I prefer the all-black bezel of the 116710LN, the grey and black bezel of the 126710GRNR is more functional as it separates day and night. The Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” 126710BLRO The green accents are a nice touch and also logical since green is the Rolex corporate c...
Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen's stylish vintage F77 reissue welcomes a thoroughly modern meteorite dial to its titanium case: a winning combination.The post The Nivada Grenchen F77 Titanium Meteorite blends ’70s swagger with modernity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A bestseller thanks to its integrated-bracelet design and accessible price, the Tissot PRX now gets more new dial options, including a “light green” hue for the time-only PRX Powermatic 80 and a “graded” green for the PRX Chronograph. The new green dials join the recent blue dial options and more compact 35mm model. Initial thoughts The new models are only cosmetic updates, but are otherwise the same. The brushed steel cases and ETA movements remain unchanged. So do the respective prices, making them the same value propositions as before. Notably, the chronograph dial gets a more substantive cosmetic upgrade beyond the colour. It now sports the waffle-patterned dial previously found only on the PRX time-only models. This is an attractive upgrade that imbues the model with a sportier aesthetic. New dial options The Powermatic 80’s dial features the same waffle pattern found in past models, but now finished in a “light” green hue that first seen on the quartz version released in 2021. The chronograph dial is presented in a darker shade of green with a gradient finish. It also gains the same stamped pattern found on the time-only model. This marks a departure from previous iterations of the chronograph, which were characterised by a vertically brushed finish with a two-colour scheme. Both watches retain the same case dimensions and movements found on earlier models. The three-hander is powered by the Powermatic 80.111, derived from the ETA C07.111. Tissot has e...
Fratello
After Omega introduced several Speedmasters not aimed at Moonwatch enthusiasts (e.g. the Speedmaster Super Racing with Spirate technology and the updated Speedmaster Apollo 8), the white-dial Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch finally came out on March 5th, 2024. I use the word “finally” because Omega had already shown it in October 2023 on the wrist of former […] Visit The White Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than The Silver Snoopy Award? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A tribute to the German city of Dresden, the PanoMaticInverse Limited Edition depicts the city where the predecessor of Glashütte Original was founded in 1845. It retains the inverted movement construction that characterises the model, displaying the escapement on the dial, but here the three-quarter plate on the front sports a hand-engraved rendering of Dresden landmarks, the Frauenkirche and Academy of Fine Arts, while the bridges on the reverse are engraved with the Elbe promenade. Initial thoughts Although the brand itself was founded after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Glashütte Original (GO) has its roots in the very beginning of watchmaking in the Glashütte area. Because the brand was formed from the East German state-owned watchmaking enterprise, it was vertically integrated from the beginning, making it a true manufacture. It is somewhat under-appreciated compared to its neighbour, A. Lange & Söhne, although the two brands focus on different segments of the market, with Glashütte Original offering more affordable timepieces. The brand’s steel watches, for example, usually retail for under US$15,000. However, GO is capable of German haute horologerie, as demonstrated by its top-of-the-line timepieces like the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon. The PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute” is one of the brand’s high-end offerings, with a retail price of US$47,400. Even though that’s a big number, the watch delivers substantial tangible quality. In addition to th...
Fratello
It has been a busy few months for Omega, introducing the Apollo 8, Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with a white dial, and the new Speedmaster 38 models. I expect to see some more Speedmaster releases in 2024, not least of all because it is a significant Apollo 11 anniversary. But we should also not forget about […] Visit The April 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Apollo XIII to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
After over a year of ownership, the Tissot PRX has given me a new outlook on what makes a great, affordable luxury timepiece! What We Love: The finer design details comparable to more expensive watchesVariety of dial colours to choose from.Affordable/entry-level luxury at its best. What We Don’t: The date window could have been placed better for a more balanced dial view. Lack of colour choices to match the dials from the brand for additional straps. Lack of finer adjustment on the integrated bracelet. Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 9/10 When the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 was first introduced in 2021, it created quite a buzz! The timepiece came with an integrated bracelet design that had an AP-like shine, a waffle dial and a tonneau-shaped case with a circular dial. Those not versed in Tissot’s history didn’t know that this was a retake on one of the brand’s iconic 1970s designs (which I’ll touch on later) and saw this as a new kid on the block, one whose about to really shake things up in the affordable timepieces category. One of the main selling points of this timepiece was its price. For what you get in return, this timepiece offers a lot—quite a lot, actually. The PRX was first released with a quartz movement, staying true to its original, and priced around $500. Then came what we watch aficionados were waiting for: a mechanical version with a pretty hefty power reserve. 1970s Vintage Tissot ...
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey has just announced a change of leadership, with Michel Nydegger assuming the role of chief executive officer. Interestingly, the current chief executive officer, Antonio Calce, will then become a vice president starting August 2024. Mr Nydegger joined the brand eight years ago and rose to his present role of head of marketing and communications in 2021, shortly after Mr Calce took over. Mr Nydegger was part of the team that supercharged Greubel Forsey’s revenue and profitability, and embarked on an expansion of its “inclined” manufacture, thanks in part to a bestselling line of sports watches introduced by Mr Calce. According to the company, despite the management changes, “Greubel Forsey will remain independent, with Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, and Antonio Calce continuing as shareholders.” The significance of this leadership transition at Greubel Forsey is not yet publicly known, although there has been talk that the brand is seeking new investors. The company’s ownership structure was simplified in 2022 when Richemont sold its 20% stake to Messrs Greubel, Forsey, and Calce. One rumoured scenario is that a consortium led by a well-known industry personality is taking over Greubel Forsey, something that may be announced in fall 2024.
Fratello
IFL Watches keeps surprising us with creative new dial variations for its releases. This time, the Stockhlom-based brand delves into the Disney archives and celebrates the joyous spirit of Mickey Mouse. To be more exact, the brand celebrates the Disney classic Steamboat Willie coming into the public domain. This animated short film is known as […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Limited Edition Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Free Willie to read the full article.
SJX Watches
As its collection of decorative, high-end timepieces reaches its fifth decade, Seiko commemorates the occasion with the Credor 50th Anniversary Eichi II (ref. GBLT996) for the occasion. Limited to just 30 watches, this is the very first Eichi in yellow gold. The anniversary edition features a deep blue, ruri porcelain dial and the hand-finished Spring Drive cal. 7R14 inside. Like the other Credor Masterpiece models, the new Eichi II is produced at the Micro Artist Studio, a small workshop dedicated to artisanal watchmaking. Initial thoughts The new Eichi II is largely identical to the versions in platinum and rose gold, differing only in the case metal. It does, however, look very different. Although the ruri dial is identical to that on the platinum model, the colours seem richer here. Yellow gold and blue is a combination that works well, and it is particularly appealing here, perhaps because of the simplicity of the design. Notably, the anniversary Eichi II is priced in between the regular production versions in rose gold and platinum. Considering the small number made and the intrinsic quality of the watch, it is certainly a compelling proposition. Ruri glaze First found on the platinum model, the dark blue dial is finished with ruri, a type of glaze that results in a glossy, deep blue finish that varies in hue with the light. Instead of the stark white indices found on the platinum model, the dial markings here are in gold. However, the markings are more elaborate th...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Christopher Ward has slowly, but surely, been upping their game in the affordable fine watchmaking segment. A brand once known for their British inspired conservative designs, and a rather plain logo font is now delving into integrated bracelet sports watches, and just today has launched a version with a fully skeletonized dial called the Christopher Ward Twelve X.
Revolution
As the pinnacle annual event in the world of horology draws to a close, Wei and Oliver R. Müller, esteemed founder of LuxeConsult and co-author of the Morgan Stanley report, offer a comprehensive analysis of Watches & Wonders 2024. Delving into the intricacies of the fair, they shed light on why this year’s showcase stands […]
SJX Watches
A smaller, feminine iteration of the famous chronograph, the Omega Speedmaster 38 mm is set apart by an unusual dial design characterised by oval sub-dials and a matching oval date window. Now the brand has grown the range to include new dial finished in metallic brown or green, both available in either steel or Omega’s proprietary gold alloys. Initial thoughts The new offerings grow the Speedmaster models catered to female consumers. Though the changes are mostly cosmetic, they are done well, with the diamonds set on the sub-dials being a particularly thoughtful detail that emphasises the oval form of the registers. At the same time, the new dial colours, which are physical vapour deposition (PVD) like other recent Omega dials, are attractive, though not new. That said, the Speedmaster 38 mm is essentially a scaled-down version of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. Though shrinking a man’s watch is often the formula for ladies watches, this would have been more interesting with more substantive changes. This is particularly relevant in terms of the case thickness, which is almost 15 mm, resulting in chunky proportions that don’t complement the styling. The new models are priced as expected for chronograph set with diamonds: starting at US$17,400 in steel on a strap, and rising to US$46,400 in gold on a bracelet. The Speedmaster 38 mm in steel, 18k Moonshine Gold, and 18k Sedna Gold Diamonds and more The latest iterations are essentially luxury upgrades to the existing Spe...
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