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2020 Top picks: Six of the best watches launched this year
This has been a wild year. No trade shows, though we did get to experience many watches 1st hand, here is our pick of the top 6 watches of 2020.
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Quill & Pad
12 Watches On The Block At Phillips New York December 2020 Racing Pulse Auction, Including Some Celebrity-Owned By Steve McQueen, Paul Newman, Bono, Andy Warhol, And John Lennon
The Phillips Racing Pulse auction showcases something of a timeline of Panerai history, including the legendary Luminor Slytech Daylight owned by Sylvester Stallone, as well as Paul Newman's Rolex Daytona and Steve McQueen's own Heuer Monaco from the filming of 'Le Mans.' And that is not even all! Elizabeth Doerr shares 12 of the extremely entertaining highlights here.
Time+Tide
We got it dead wrong. So, which colour Rolex OP 36 2020 models sold for the highest price at the recent Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction?
Last week, Phillips held their latest watch auction in Hong Kong: the Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction XI. As per usual, there were some very neat, rare, and illustrious lots that collectors would salivate over – eager to add such fine timepieces to their collections. While the globe may have taken a beating this year … ContinuedThe post We got it dead wrong. So, which colour Rolex OP 36 2020 models sold for the highest price at the recent Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Bremont Hawking in white gold is a brief history in time of its own
I got to wear this icon-inspired Bremont Hawking in white gold for a brief moment in time, which is particularly apt given its association with Stephen Hawking. Here’s my ten pennies’ worth on the watch. Truth be told, I am desperate for this watch not to disappoint because Hawking is a hero of mine I’d … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bremont Hawking in white gold is a brief history in time of its own appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Large format watch photography - the image gallery on Chillout TGIFridays
Last week we took the first step towards attempting to make macro photographs of watches using large format cameras and lenses with sheet film. This journey begins in small steps, the first being to start with a 4×5 large format camera and lens, but using a digital back, as it allows us immediate feedback, andRead More
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN (London Evening News Edition): Issue #3 of our mag is out, 2021 Club strap released, and our UK reveal draws closer…
Editor’s note: Everything at Time+Tide is filtered through the primary red and blue of the UK flag this week, as we properly break a bottle on the ship’s bow to herald our new London-based European Editor, Mr Mike Christensen. So it seems only fair that we shift the Friday Wind Down to Mike’s time zone … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN (London Evening News Edition): Issue #3 of our mag is out, 2021 Club strap released, and our UK reveal draws closer… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design Part II
Previously, in Part I of this series, we analysed and reviewed over 40 watch movements in terms of their potential chronometric performance – via the Horological Density Factor (HDF), which encompasses balance power and power reserve against the size of the movement – and debated the various trade-offs that had been made in order to achieve specific technical or aesthetic characteristics. Many readers then asked how more commonly known and accessible movements compare. To answer that we needed more data from the industry. Fortunately, Swiss movement makers Valjoux, Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon, Unitas, as well as their parent company Ebauches SA – now all part of ETA – once published beautifully comprehensive, detailed data sheets that included balance wheel inertia values. Armed with this data, we have been able to analyse and plot a further 25 movements alongside the previous group (with the disclaimer that it might not be fully up to date since the data sheets date from before the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s) to give a total of 68 to allow further investigation and review. The analysis Several popular movements have been added: the workhorse ETA 2824-1 and -2, the ubiquitous ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph, the large diameter ETA Unitas 6497-1 and -2, and the ETA Peseux 7001. We also added, among others, the integrated chronograph cal. 4130 in the Rolex Daytona, and the modular chronograph versions of both the ETA 2892 (known as the ETA 2894) as well as...
Quill & Pad
Richard Mille RM 72-01 In-House Chronograph Featuring Fluid Constant Force Chrono Pushers (With Video)
The RM 72-01 is a first for Richard Mille – a relaxed, playful flyback chronograph that, while as interesting and eye-catching as its siblings, is quite a different mechanical beast from the others thanks to its in-house chronograph movement with a variety of new elements and even a world-first in watchmaking.
Deployant
New: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition with Editorial Commentary
The latest co-creation between TAG Heuer and Bamford Watch Department, the world’s ultimate hub for personalised luxury, is an exclusive Aquaracer timepiece equipped with the Calibre 5 Automatic movement and limited to 1,500 pieces. Press release information with editorial commentary in italics. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Reference WAY208F.BF0638 is available now. Retail S$5,500Read More
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero
The definition of an everyday watch is one that doesn’t excel in any one particular area. It has to do everything, from jeans and hoodies, to bow ties and dinner jackets, and it has to do them all well. It needs to be noticeable yet invisible, characterful but discreet, and the Baume & Mercier Clifton … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
#Kicktock: White-hot drops this week from Bamford and Nike create monochromatic magic
Bamford and Nike? You read that right. It’s no secret that I am a big fan of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. To me it’s a quietly spoken grail watch in that hotly contested category of integrated bracelet sports watches. Its slim case design and smooth ergonomic bracelet make this an easy collection favourite. So much so … ContinuedThe post #Kicktock: White-hot drops this week from Bamford and Nike create monochromatic magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic
If there is any single watch to lovingly blame for the craze of luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets, it’s the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. When initially launched in 1972, it wasn’t the beloved reference it has become today – in fact, many people were confounded by its introduction, especially given its hefty price … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces the HMS and Bicompax Perpétuel Editions
A newly established specialist retailer in Dubai, Perpétuel is making its debut with the Baltic x Perpétuel HMS and Bicompax, a pair of watches conceived to mark the 49th National Day of the United Arab Emirates, which was formed in 1971, hence the 71-piece edition. Both are variations of the signature timepieces of Baltic, a French brand that got its start on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter and has since made accessibly priced, retro-style watches its specialty. The HMS Initial thoughts Baltic offers a strong value proposition with its vintage-inspired watches featuring stepped bezels and sector dials that are powered by Chinese movements, explaining the affordable pricing. The Perpétuel editions are novel. Although their Eastern Arabic numerals on the dial are common in watches for the Middle East, they are not often found in entry-level watches, especially those with retro designs. Combined with the forest-green dial colour, both models are very much catered to the culture of the Middle East. But they also have substantial appeal for anyone outside the region, thanks to the colour, smart design, and graceful style of the Eastern Arabic script. But the Perpétuel are pricey, being notably more expensive than the standard models. However, they are still affordable in absolute terms, and considering the small, 71-piece run, remain fair value for money. HMS and Bicompax Both the HMS and Bicompax share the same case dimensions of 38 mm by 12 mm. Matched with a domed Hes...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: All white now - the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase lightens up
When the time comes to add complications to your roster of wrist wear, Baume & Mercier is a great brand to turn to. Not only are their watches competitively priced, but they are also comparably well-built when considered alongside many of their more expensive peers. In this way, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: All white now – the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase lightens up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Champagne Jacquesson: Superlative Grower Movement Single-Vineyard Wines
Champagne Jacquesson transformed itself from an also-ran to pioneering single-vineyard and terroir-based champagne house. Out went the traditional non-vintage, vintage, and prestige champagnes and in came one blend – “the best we can make each year” – and four single-vineyard wines. And Ken Gargett is now a big fan.
Hodinkee
MASTER OF G
Putting the professional precision and functionality of G-SHOCK's latest MASTER OF G timepieces to the test doesn’t require a hard-core adventure...but it helps.
Deployant
New: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea - pushing the limits of the lume with Editorial Commentary
Linde Werdelin collaborates with James Thompson of Black Badger to explore what is possible with a lume dial with the new Oktopus Blue Sea. Press Release information with commentary in italics The Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea retails for SGD 21,451 inclusive of GST or GBP 12,000 exclusive of VAT. Commentary Interesting new application ofRead More
SJX Watches
Anordain Introduces the Model 1 Fumé
Having made its debut two years ago with the original Model 1, Anordain has just announced the Model 1 Fumé that features a fired enamel dial in graduated, translucent colour. Based in the Scottish city of Glasgow, Anordain’s specialty are vitreous enamel dials in lightly-designed, affordable watches, and the Model 1 Fumé boasts the most elaborate dial to date. Brightly coloured in the centre and darkening towards the edges, the dial of the new Model 1 is the result of experimenting with a silver dial base, instead of the usual copper. After a year’s worth of trial and error, Anordain’s pair of in-house enamellers finally perfected the smoked enamel dial. Initial thoughts With its fired enamel dial in pastel colours, the original Model 1 was an appealing watch with even more appealing value, being priced at a little under US$1,400 at the time. It was a modestly sized watch with a simple dial that was still distinctive, thanks to the proprietary typography and smart dial design. And the recognisable texture and colour of the enamel dial made it even better. The new Model 1 is essentially identical in terms of size and style. Although the case has been subtly redesigned, it retains the same dimensions, which means it wears well and feels a little bit like a vintage watch, albeit one that’s quite thick for the diameter. But the new dial is far more striking. In fact, the dial is similar to that found on last year’s Model 2, a good-looking watch that is a little b...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is like a glass of Bordeaux in a golden goblet
The Oris x Fratello Watches Oris Big Crown Pointer Date brings the gorgeous oxblood red dial to the sleek satin brushed bronze case.The post HANDS-ON: The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is like a glass of Bordeaux in a golden goblet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Seiko Presage: A 2020 Overview With Some New Watches
Seiko has always made it a point to deliver bang for your buck. And in recent years, the brand has been realigning its different collections with the aim of offering collectors exciting products in every price category. For the Presage, this means that there are now two tiers to the collection: Prestige and Basic. Martin Green takes us through a number of the latest models for 2020.
SJX Watches
Philippe Dufour Announces a Lottery for the Simplicity 20th Anniversary
Soon after the very first of the Simplicity 20th Anniversary sold for a record US$1.51 million, Philippe Dufour revealed that Lebanese watch collector and gem merchant Claude Sfeir will now be his exclusive retailer worldwide. Historically selling direct to clients but also represented by a handful of retailers around the world, most notably Shellman in Tokyo, Mr Dufour has now streamlined his distribution. Having known Mr Dufour for some 40 years, Mr Sfeir will handle the sale of the 20 Simplicity 20th Anniversary watches, as well as whatever timepieces Mr Dufour may debut in the future. With Mr Dufour himself keeping the last of the 21 anniversary timepieces, the first 10 examples will be sold direct to clients. While not revealing the specifics of the allocation process, Mr Sfeir noted during a phone conversation he hoped to that the watches would be evenly distributed around the world. The last 10 watches will be allocated in a lottery that will take place in Switzerland. It will be a formal event, with a huissier de justice – an officer of the court in Switzerland – serving as a witness. According to Mr Sfeir, the restructuring of the distribution will not only help Mr Dufour build a more commercially sustainable business, but also ensure the Dufour brand name can continue into the next generation. Mr Sfeir also let on that Mr Dufour’s daughter, Daniela, is almost done with her watchmaking education. She will join Mr Dufour at the bench at the end of 2020, o...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition
Launched in 2004 as an offshoot of the 2000 Series, the Aquaracer is the quintessential TAG Heuer dive watch. Solidly constructed and usually good value, the Aquaracer has pretty much stuck to the same aesthetic since it was launched. But it leaves staid looks behind with the Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition, a surprisingly cool diver designed by Bamford Watch Department (BWD), the watch customiser par excellence. Coming a week after the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Ghost, the new Aquaracer is the second BWD collab in as many weeks. But the Aquaracer at the other end of the spectrum, both in design and price. The Laureato Ghost was entirely in white ceramic, while the Aquaracer is all matte titanium and more accessibly priced – although it is expensive for an Aquaracer. Initial thoughts BWD excels at applying new colours and textures to existing designs to create a whole new look. This has been achieved here, most notably with the sandblasted finish on the case and bracelet. Because the material is titanium – nearly all Aquaracers to date are steel – the result is a grey, granular surface that gives it the feel of no-nonsense “tool” watch. The dial features a notable degree of nuance for a “tool” watch, including a radial pattern and moulded Super-Luminova blocks for hour markers. A quirky detail that’s been found on other BWD watches also makes an appearance here: an alternating white-and-orange tip for the seconds hand, which brings to mind a clownfish o...
Quill & Pad
Bremont Hawking & Hawking Quantum: Commemorating The Life And Times Of Stephen Hawking
To commemorate Stephen Hawking, English watch company Bremont created a set of limited-edition watches honoring the late theoretical physicist: the Bremont Hawking and Hawking Quantum models. As the brand’s tenth limited edition, the Hawking watches pay homage to some of the greatest accomplishments of an Englishman in the last century. And like that titan of cosmology, there is more than meets the eye here.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Bravur x Wingårdh delivers Nordic modernism at its most clean and serene
In Scandinavia, our long dark winters should be a fertile breeding ground for horology. Just as the oppressive gloom sent the Swiss inside to tinker about with watchmaking tools and lathes, you might expect a similar tradition to have developed in these parts – Scandinavian design and Nordic minimalism are, after all, deeply engrained in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Bravur x Wingårdh delivers Nordic modernism at its most clean and serene appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 (2020) Review
Breilting’s Chronomat model has been around since 1984, holding a significant place in the brand’s history ever since its release. The Chronomat was released at a time when quartz watches were the popular choice for wrist wear. In 1984, Breitling took an impressive risk, by designing and releasing a mechanical timepiece into a much quartz driven world. The Chronomat upon its release proved to be a winner and became an icon that to this day enthusiasts still love. The original Breitling Chronomat was inspired by the Frecce Tricolori watch, which was created in 1983 alongside the famous aerobatic demonstration team of the Italian Air Force; Frecce Tricolori. The stylish design codes of the 1984 Chronomat made this timepiece truly an all-purpose sports watch. Although the Breitling Chronomat was seen as a watch for pilots and the aviation industry, it was just as popular in other areas such as Formula 1 teams. The unique reversible rider tabs also made the Chronomat ideally suited for regattas as well. With such versatility, the Breitling Chronomat was made to be a daily wearer, a watch that you can wear on the red carpet while fitting in perfectly at outdoor activities and the beach. The latest Breitling Chronomat collection released in 2020 captures all the essence and qualities of the original model while giving it an update with modern design cues and movement, showcasing the brand’s future. Breitling Chronomat reference AB0134101K1A1 In regards to the Chronom...
Deployant
Throwback Sundays Six Modern Watch Icons, from Our Archives (Part II)
Last week, we talked about six modern watch icons that have made an impact in the watch industry. We think that although we have featured six watches, it is certainly not enough to cover the array of wonderful watches that deserve a spot on the list. Hence, in this week’s article, we have decided toRead More
SJX Watches
Up Close: MIH Gaïa Watch
Announced last year as a fundraising project for the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), the MIH Gaïa was delayed for a couple of months due to the pandemic-induced shutdown in Switzerland, but the 200-piece limited edition was recently completed and is now being delivered. Inspired by the Brutalist style of the museum building, the Gaïa watch is a clean but smart design that combines a novel time display with a well-finished case. And importantly, proceeds from its sale go to the MIH, an important horological institution that’s the largest time-measurement museum in the world. Initial thoughts Attractive in design and feel, the Gaïa is an honest product that helps a good cause. Although the style is minimalist, the design incorporates elements that give it a distinctive appearance, most notably the angled lugs and domed minute disc. Although the watch is not large, it has good presence on the wrist as a result of the design. The time display seems unconventional at first, but is actually straightforward, relying on discs instead of hands for both hours and minutes. Reminiscent of a weighing scale, it’s easy to read, though the hour disc looks initially odd because the numerals are arranged anti-clockwise. The minute disc, on the other hand, is conventional but one of the defining visual elements of the watch, thanks to the fact that it’s recessed and slightly spherical. The case is worth pointing out for its form and finish, especially on the lugs. They...
Time+Tide
Stealth-help: Seiko creates kick-ass new collection inspired by Naruto’s anime ninjas
Naruto is one of the biggest-selling manga series in history, selling 250 million copies worldwide. The Japanese anime series followed the adventures of a young ninja, Naruto Uzumaki, while a spin-off series, Boruto, subsequently focused on Naruto’s son. The shows’ all-action exploits have now inspired Seiko to create a new collection of seven watches based … ContinuedThe post Stealth-help: Seiko creates kick-ass new collection inspired by Naruto’s anime ninjas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Chillout TGIFridays: Shooting watches with large format cameras! Part 1. The preparation and the cameras.
In this Chillout TGIFridays episode, we begin our exploration into using large format cameras and lenses to do watch macro photography. Large format cameras for watch photography Large format cameras have historically been the mainstay in professional work, where maximum image quality is of critical importance. These are large cameras, often reduced to the essenceRead More
Revolution
In Conversation with Frédéric Arnault
Revolution caught up with Frédéric Arnault, six months into his tenure as CEO to discuss watches and his vision for the 160-year TAG Heuer going forward.