Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Adam Driver Takes Over The Gucci Family Empire Wearing A JLC Reverso in 'House of Gucci'
And utters the name of a rare Patek in our watch-related movie of the week.
Results for Patek Philippe Calibre 89
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Four + One: He's A Dealer. And A Collector. And Now, An Author, Too.
Laurent Martinez shows us his Patek, Breguet, a couple of Rolex – and a damned fine pair of boots.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Jaeger-LeCoultre introduce a brand new complication inspired by shooting stars
This is a year of celestial celebration for Jaeger-LeCoultre with “The Stellar Odyssey” collection paying tribute to the centuries-old marriage of astronomy and horology in the most breathtaking ways. A few examples of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Watches & Wonders releases truly stand out from the crowd, such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Galaxia and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Jaeger-LeCoultre introduce a brand new complication inspired by shooting stars appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING – Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton
Gloriously blending modern design and classic watchmaking savoir-faire, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton screams grail watch in any situation. It sits at the pinnacle of Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas lineup and deserves its place in the pantheon of the complicated sports watch. Housing a beautifully executed skeletonised perpetual calendar calibre in a case … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING – Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Blue
Laurent Ferrier adds a fumé blue dial to their Classic Origin collection. The watch remains in titanium case, and the Manual-winding calibre LF116.01
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Connected 42mm is the biggest leap forward for Swiss smartwatches yet
Since its introduction in 2015, the TAG Heuer Connected has seen a number of iterations, all sitting atop the luxury smartwatch pile. With the new 42mm Connected Calibre E4, rather than compete with giants of the tech world and the Silicon Valley, TAG Heuer looks to extend its lead as a luxury smartwatch maker. With … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Connected 42mm is the biggest leap forward for Swiss smartwatches yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Molnar Fabry Transforms a 19th Century Minute Repeater into a Wristwatch
Founded by a Slovakian duo who are both trained jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in elaborately decorated watches built on existing movements. Last year the pair reworked a Vaucher automatic calibre, but the brand’s latest project started life over a century ago. Echoing one of Molnar Fabry’s creations from 2018, the Grand Master Minute Repeater is essentially a pocket watch converted into a wristwatch. Starting out as a C.H. Meylan minute repeating pocket watch from 1901, the Grand Master features a hand-made case containing the pocket watch movement, which has been entirely refinished and extensively engraved. A close-up of the heavily decorated movement Initial thoughts Molnar Fabry does high quality work especially in terms of decoration, both for movement components and engraving. Their style is usual ornate, which might not be to everyone’s taste, but the brand has shown versatility in its past work, which has included more streamlined designs. The Grand Master is definitely ornate with its fully engraved case and movement. The quality and thoroughness of the work is impressive. And relatively to its ballpark price, the Grand Master is priced reasonably compared to what better-known makers in Switzerland would charge. But as with many pocket watch conversions, the Grand Master is a huge watch. The case is 47 mm by 14 mm. For anyone who likes their watches on this scale – and appreciates the skill that went into the decoration – the Grand Master is off t...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: An Engineer’s Technical and Personal Perspectives on Quartz Timekeeping
For an uncompromising mechanical watch enthusiast, one of the most dreaded words in the specifications of a watch is surely “quartz”. Oftentimes that dread is followed by the thought, if only it was mechanical… I must admit this went through my mind when I discovered the lovely Cartier Santos Dumont in 2019. And that was despite Cartier’s best efforts in communicating that the movement inside was a long-autonomy quartz calibre with a six-year battery life. The Cartier Santos Dumont trio, with only the XL variant (extreme left) being mechanical In the time since, I began to ponder the question: why do I seek the latest electronic gadgets, but am dismissive towards quartz watches? Just because quartz movements are often cheap and easily available, does that leave them uniformly uninteresting? The Quartz Crisis On Monday, December 29, 1969, tucked somewhere in the The New York Times was an eight-line paragraph that ended with “[the] world’s first electronic wrist watch with a crystal oscillator.” That electronic watch, as you may have guessed, was the Seiko Quartz-Astron. It was barely obvious at the time, but the announcement, innocuous as it was, would be the harbinger of a crisis for Swiss watchmaking. The father of all quartz watches, the Seiko Quartz-Astron 35SQ in 18K yellow gold The Quartz-Astron cost as much as a Toyota Corolla at the time of of its release – its price was equivalent to about US$1,200 – and was without a doubt a luxury product. Ov...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG launches new Connected Watches, 2022 looks promising for Longines
A lot has happened over the last seven days, but earlier today TAG Heuer ushered in their next generation of Connected Watch: the Calibre E4. Some collectors scoff at the idea of a smartwatch, claiming that such a digital device does not have the artistic essence of a traditional mechanical timepiece. But let’s face it, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG launches new Connected Watches, 2022 looks promising for Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Available in the Shop: An Ultra-Rare 1968 Omega Speedmaster Ultraman Ref.145.012-67
Rarer than a Paul Newman and offering a killer mix of legend, looks and availability, the Omega Speedmaster Ultraman is a truly special chronograph. From its totemic orange hand to its use of the legendary calibre 321, they don’t come better than this.
SJX Watches
The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived
Originally announced in 2018, the Leica L1 and L2 (now renamed ZM 1 and ZM 2) wristwatches have finally made it to market. Developed with the help of a German watchmaker but very much a proprietary product, the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are both powered by variants of the same cleverly constructed calibre that is an impressive debut for the camera maker’s horological venture. Initial thoughts The Leica watch has a restrained, Germanic aesthetic with interesting details, but more importantly an interesting, thoughtful movement. Developed from the ground up for Leica, the calibre features useful complications like a power reserve and hacking, zero-reset seconds, but executed in an unusual yet practical manner. At the same time, the patented pull crown is novel without sacrificing functionality. The design of the movement is also appealing, with its partially open-worked bridges cleverly exposing the key components of the going train and complications The watch is big, but not excessively large. Considering the size of the calibre, the case dimensions are acceptable. That said, this is the limit, any larger and the case would be enormous. It helps that the styling is attractively low key. The dial and case appear simple at a distance, but reveal their details up close. The hands and hour markers, for instance, echo each other, while the crowns are finely knurled. Leica also avoided a common pitfall of watches inspired by other technically-oriented industries, no doubt thanks to Achim H...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’
When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 260th anniversary in 2015 with the Harmony collection of cushion-shaped watches, the standout was easily the split-seconds chronograph. Seemingly ordinary on its face, the Harmony split-seconds was powered by the cal. 3500, an all-new rattrapante chronograph calibre with a novel automatic winding mechanism. The movement was gorgeous, but disappeared from the catalogue – until last year. The cal. 3500 made its comeback with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) watches, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is a limited edition – only 15 pieces in fact – that utilises platinum generously throughout the watch, but it is unique as there is no standard production equivalent in the catalogue. In short, it is a special watch. The cal. 3500 with its intricate chronograph mechanism and novel peripheral rotor Initial thoughts On its face, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is an elegant watch with a restrained, almost simple style. Its proportions are wide and slim, creating a graceful profile. The thinness exaggerates the case diameter slightly, so it does seem a bit wider than it is, especially with the longish lugs. In typical CEP style, the dial is nearly monochromatic, rendered in grey and silver, with the only colour coming from the indicator hands for the chronograph and power reserve. It’s a simple combination, but a good one. The pla...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus
Vacheron Constantin is starting the year in a big way with the Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus. A double-faced grand complication, the Bacchus is part of the brand’s annual collection of one-of-a-kind timepieces. The Bacchus ranks amongst the most complex watches produced by Vacheron Constantin, thanks to the cal. 2755 GC16 that’s made up of over 800 parts. Though the Geneva watchmaker has used variations of the same calibre in past watches, the Bacchus is unusual even amongst its siblings because of its case decoration, which includes both hand engraving and gem setting, forming a grapevine motif in relief on both sides of the case. The star chart display on the reverse of the Bacchus Initial thoughts The Bacchus is the sort of grand complication that makes a statement, belonging in the same category of watch as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon. It’s extremely large, very complex, and impossible to miss on the wrist. Though a one-off creation, the Bacchus is not the first two-faced grand complication from Vacheron Constantin. In fact, several past models, notably the Phoenix of 2018, have contained variations of the same calibre found in the Bacchus. But the Bacchus has a unique decoration, in fact one of the most elaborate to date. The minute repeater is activated by turning the bezel, leaving the case free of a traditional slide Vacheron Constantin’s grand complications are frequently engraved, but Bacchus seems to be the first – or at least...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80
Originally launched with a quartz movement in early 2021, the Tissot PRX really caught on when it got an automatic movement a few months later. Equipped with a cost-efficient yet high tech ETA calibre, the PRX Powermatic 80 costs just US$650 – making it an easily affordable iteration of the integrated-bracelet sports watch. Initial thoughts Modelled on the Seastar ref. 40205 launched in 1978 – it’s practically a remake in fact – the PRX Powermatic 80 doesn’t try to do too much. Instead it focuses on doing just a few things right, just enough to look good while maintaining its affordability. Its modest price tag is evident up close, but the PRX still looks good enough on the wrist. The PRX Powermatic 80 successfully reproduces the feel of the 1978 original. It’s a little bit bigger, but still compact by modern standards. More importantly, the PRX retains the right proportions in terms of case, bracelet, and dial. One of its best features is its size. At 40 mm wide and 10.9 mm high, the PRX is just right. The case middle is fairly thin and matched with an equally thin bracelet – that has a solid double-fold clasp – giving it a refined feel on the wrist. As for the design, it’s a good look – and certainly a popular one today – but derivative. That’s because the 1978 original itself was fairly generic. The 1978 Seastar was just one of many watches that shared a style that was popular in the late 1970s and well into the 1980s. One of the most obvio...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
Phillips sold US$74.5 million of watches during its recent Geneva auctions, the besting the two-decade old record set by Antiquorum in 2002 for the biggest watch auction ever. Now it the focus shifts to Hong Kong for the fall watch sale in the city. Amongst the top lots in Geneva were important creations by independent watchmakers, including the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch that sold for US$5.2 million, as well as an F.P. Journe Resonance Souscription that achieved US$4.3 million (fees included). Fortunately there are fine examples of the genre for far less money at the upcoming Hong Kong auction. We round up some of the most notable – and possibly overlooked – in the sale, including the little-known F.P. Journe Octa “France-China”, the rarely-seen Haldimann H11, and a pair of quirky watches by Vianney Halter (but designed by Pascal Pages). The movement of the H11 The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 841: Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter Perhaps the most complicated watch ever conceived by Vianney Halter is the Opus 3, which was originally a collaborative effort between the watchmaker and American jeweller Harry Winston. Entirely digital in its time display, the Opus 3 has no hands, but instead six apertures on its face. The date occupies the two windows in the centre, with the left co...
Revolution
4 Dufours: Contemporary Watchmaking’s Most Important Creations
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo has revealed that its upcoming sale this fall, The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV, will feature not one but four extraordinary Philippe Dufour creations. Wei gives us the proper run down while the auction house came through Singapore for their Geneva Watch Auction: XIV showcase.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen”
Having launched the second-generation Zeitwerk movement two years ago with a date display, A. Lange & Söhne has now upgraded the base model with the same calibre – except it’s not exactly a base model. Limited to 200 watches, the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen” reimagines the Zeitwerk Phantom of 2010, but with a second-generation movement – which means a longer power reserve and quickset hours – and a case in 18k Honeygold, the brand’s proprietary gold alloy. Initial thoughts Lange is certainly introducing second-generation Zeitwerk in style. The combination of Honeygold and the tinted sapphire dial is striking – it is a good looking watch – while the improved movement removes all of the inconveniences of the first-generation calibre. It is essentially a revisit of the Zeitwerk Phantom, but that takes nothing away from it. Enough time has passed since the Phantom that an encore is welcome, and it is also different enough with the Honeygold case and second-generation calibre. The only bit I wish was different is the red marking on the power reserve indicator. I’m not a fan because it jumps out relative to the rest of the dial, and adds colour to what should be a monochromatic design. At €114,000 the new Zeitwerk is a chunk of change but it’s not exorbitant considering the complication. And perhaps more relevant is the fact the secondary market values for past Lumen editions have escalated rapidly, which makes this inexpensive in comparison. Mechanic...
Time+Tide
Oris introduce their first ever Big Crown ProPilot Big Date in bronze
Oris has been on a bronze rampage over the past year, with attractive releases such as the limited edition Carl Brashear calibre 401 and “Fratelloris” Big Crown, as well as the standard production Cotton Candy collection of Sixty-Five divers. While the material has become less of a novelty move for manufacturers, I fully welcome the … ContinuedThe post Oris introduce their first ever Big Crown ProPilot Big Date in bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
IWC and Collective partner up for the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition C.03
The private watch group Collective Horology has teamed up with IWC to create the Pilot’s Chronograph C.03, a watch that the founders of Collective refer to as a love letter to IWC. The pared-back pilot certainly evokes the golden era of Blümlien’s IWC through fine details, but the calibre is much more modern and, surprisingly, on-show through a sapphire back.
Deployant
Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin
The Calibre 3500 makes a comeback to power the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin - Collection Excellence Platine.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Chronoscope
The latest from Omega is a surprise: a Speedmaster powered by a new, manual-wind calibre but fitted with a retro-inspired, multi-scale dial. Equipped with the full-spec cal. 9908, the Speedmaster Chronoscope is a 43 mm chronograph with a dial bearing three sets of measurement scales: tachymeter, telemeter, and pulsometer. While the multi-scale dial is modelled on vintage Omega chronographs of the 1940s, the case is classic Speedmaster with its characteristic “twisted” or “lyre” lugs. Initial thoughts The Chronoscope is essentially combines well-known chronographs from two disparate periods in Omega’s history: the multi-scale dial typically associated with the vintage CK 2393 powered by the cal. 33.3 from the 1940s, plus the Speeedmaster case that is a 1960s design. But it is distinctly 21st century in mechanics with the new cal. 9908 inside. While any one of those might be appeal on their own, together they don’t work well. The Speedmaster case design is about three decades older than the multi-scale so it feels incongruent. To be fair, the dial looks to be well executed with good detail and design. The portions of the dial look good and the applied numerals are a nice touch. And pricing is fair as well. But despite the appeal of the individual elements, the whole is less than the sum of the parts. Still, the design makes sense from a broader, commercial perspective since it adds a new look to the stable of designs for the Speedmaster, which is one of Omega...
Deployant
New: Audemars Piguet 42mm Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph
AP presents 5 new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph models in 42 mm equipped with the latest integrated flyback chronograph movement, Calibre 4404.
SJX Watches
Calling All Up and Coming Young Watchmakers
Every year F.P. Journe seeks out the world’s most promising young clock- and watchmakers and selects one, or sometimes a handful, to receive the year’s F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition prize. The 2022 contest is now open for submissions. Contestants must be between the ages of 18 and 30 years old, and have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”. A jury of industry notables, including Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe himself, will then decide on the winner, who receives a CHF20,000 grant. This year’s winner was Mario Scarpatetti, who devised a secular perpetual calendar clock. Past winners include Russian watchmaker Anton Suhanov, who has built monumental table clocks, including one with a triple-axis tourbillon within a metal flower, and Remy Cools, who unveiled his first wristwatch tourbillon not too long ago. To enter the contest, submit your entry on fpjourne.com. The deadline for submissions is February 25, 2022.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième
While the Reverso was conceived as a sports watch – it flipped over to protect the crystal – the swivelling case makes more sense today as a double-faced complication (or a canvas for miniature painting). And that’s precisely what Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has done with a variety of models, ranging from the twin-time zone Duoface to the Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque with four faces. The Quadriptyque is the flagship model for the Reverso’s 90th anniversary, with 11 complications and a price tag north of US$1.6 million. Also created for the anniversary, but more affordable – relatively speaking – is the Reverso Tribute Nonantième that shows a single time on two faces, a conventional one on the front, and a charming secondary display on the back. Initial thoughts With a case that’s among the largest of Reversos, the Nonantième is a big watch. Pick it up and the size is immediately apparent; it would be considerably more elegant if smaller. It feels like a chunky, complicated watch. In fact, it’s almost as large as the Quadriptyque in diameter and length, despite being far simpler. On the front it’s typical of current Reverso design. All of the elements on the dial are classical and work together well. The only piece of the front that stands out is the moon phase display, which has a textured moon that gives the dial a little life. Its better side is the reverse, which shows hours and minutes in a manner that’s decidedly special for a Reverso. ...
Hodinkee
Interview: The Baker Behind The Internet's Favorite Watch Cookies
She'll turn your beloved Rolex, Patek, and Omega into edible treats. And she'll ship them right to your door.
Revolution
Time Trial: Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Collection
There’s a fresh breeze blowing through the world of watch design and floating on that breeze like a clump of gossamer goodness is Oris’ latest confection: the Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy”. The case is the familiar and popular Divers Sixty-Five bronze, clocking in at a versatile 38mm across, domed sapphire crystal, rated to 100 metres and with a stainless steel caseback concealing the automatic calibre Oris 733 inside. The dial comes in three super sweet flavours, complemented by the use of bronze for the case and bracelet. What remains to be seen is how bronze - famous for how it tends to patina - will interplay with the dial. Will a hint of verdigris make the dials seem that much more delicious? Only time will tell.
SJX Watches
Mario Scarpatetti Wins the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition 2021
Held annually since 2015, the Young Talent Competition (YTC) was established by F.P. Journe to identify and reward promising young watch- and clockmakers. Open to candidates between 18 and 30 years old from anywhere in the world, the competition is overseen by a jury made up of industry figures – including Philippe Dufour, Giulio Papi, and Francois-Paul Journe himself – with the winner receiving a certificate as well as a CHF20,000 grant to buy watchmaking tools. This year’s winner was Mario Scarpatetti, a 29-year old clockmaker from the town of Parsonz in the east of Switzerland. Mr Scarpatetti’s winning submission was the Kalendar Perpeten, a long-case pendulum clock wound by a block of marble from Mr Scarpatetti’s region. It’s equipped with a moon phase, running equation of time, and most importantly – a patented, secular perpetual calendar. Francois-Paul Journe (left) with Mario Scarpatetti The Kalendar Perpeten Mario envisioned a new type of perpetual calendar clock in 2016, as an extension of a concept he had realised in 2013 as a conventional perpetual calendar clock. A conventional perpetual calendar keeps track of the date, accounting 30- and 31-day months as well as leap years. However, such calendars still require adjustment every 100 years, as years that are divisible by 100 but not by 400 are not leap years, one of the quirks of the Gregorian calendar that is the norm today. As such, a conventional perpetual calendar will interpret the years 2...
Revolution
Introducing the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Master Chronometer
The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Master Chronometer is the brand’s first dive watch with a 41mm ceramic case with sandblasted finish, ceramic bezel insert, black dial and a display caseback. It comes with a manufacture calibre and a Master Chronometer certification from METAS.
Deployant
The 2021 IWC Big Pilot in 43mm IW329301
The watch is priced at CHF8,900 compared to the 46mm at CHF13,900. It has a base movement versus the 52110 Calibre which has an additional 100 hours in power reserve. The watch is positioned as a more wearable option to the larger Big Pilot that also comes with a more affordable price tag.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003
Last year’s 60th anniversary was a major event for Grand Seiko, which unveiled several new movements and plenty of limited editions to mark the occasion. The most notable launch was probably the 9SA5 movement, a high-frequency and high-end automatic calibre. The movement made its debut in the luxe yellow-gold SLGH002, then in the steel Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003 a few months later. Since then the movement has been installed in a similar, but even more pricey platinum edition, and finally the regular production “White Birch” SLGH005. The cal. 9SA5 All the models are essentially the same, save for different dial finishes and case materials. Here we take a close look at the SLGH003 in steel as a representative for the “SLGH” family. Like its siblings in the family, the SLGH003 is a brand-new reference. The case and dial designs evolved from the existing and familiar Grand Seiko style, but inside is a radically new movement – the cal. 9SA5 with a Dual Impulse escapement. The aesthetic changes have created more refined exterior that better showcase the brand’s case finishing, but more crucially, the improvements signify the brand’s moves upmarket – exemplified by the more elaborate movement and higher price tag. The SLGH003 Initial thoughts Unique among the Grand Seiko line up in terms of its movement and styling, the “SLGH” family boasts new features that are mostly for the better, such as the more elaborate case and sophisticated mov...