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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).

Announcement: New Faces Join the SJX Editorial Team SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s manufacture as well Dec 19, 2023

Announcement: New Faces Join the SJX Editorial Team

I am pleased to end the year with new additions to the team – Brandon Moore and David Ichim. Both occasional contributors before, Brandon and David will now become regular, exclusive contributors. Brandon’s writings explore the diversity of watchmaking and watch collecting. Amongst his recent stories are a visit to F.P. Journe’s manufacture, as well as its dial- and case-making facility. Brandon also recounted his experience learning traditional engine turning at a guilloche workshop by Nico Cox. And scheduled for January 2024: his story covering a visit to Akrivia’s workshops in Geneva. David’s contributions are more technically oriented, with the most recent being a detailed analysis of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum that explains why it might be the ultimate F.P. Journe chronomètre. A freshly-eroded remontoir spring at the F.P. Journe manufacture At the same time, Russell Sheldrake will be departing in early February 2024 – we wish him well. Finally, Oliver R. Müller of LuxeConsult is no longer a contributor to SJX Watches. He contributed a handful of articles from 2020 to 2023; these articles are no longer available on the site. Mr Müller is no longer associated with us in any form. Any queries can be directed to us via the contact form.  

Visiting Porsche Design’s New Manufaktur And Discovering What It Means For The Brand’s Future Fratello
Porsche Design s New Manufaktur Mar 28, 2026

Visiting Porsche Design’s New Manufaktur And Discovering What It Means For The Brand’s Future

When Porsche Design invited me to visit the opening of its new Timepieces Manufaktur, I was immediately intrigued. Having visited the relatively small old workshop in Solothurn before, a big new facility inevitably implies lofty ambitions. What is the German carmaker/Swiss watchmaker up to? As your intrepid reporter, I made it my mission to find […] Visit Visiting Porsche Design’s New Manufaktur And Discovering What It Means For The Brand’s Future to read the full article.

Spending Time With The Distinctive Omega Speedmaster FOiS Fratello
Omega Speedmaster FOiS I could Nov 4, 2025

Spending Time With The Distinctive Omega Speedmaster FOiS

I could make this a concise hands-on review. However, what I wanted to do when the Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space (FOiS) landed on my desk was answer the question of whether this would be the Speedmaster for me. Ever since Omega unveiled the Speedmaster FOiS, the watch has intrigued me. First, I love […] Visit Spending Time With The Distinctive Omega Speedmaster FOiS to read the full article.

Tudor’s First-Ever Moon Phase Wristwatch SJX Watches
Tudor s First-Ever Moon Phase Sep 25, 2025

Tudor’s First-Ever Moon Phase Wristwatch

In a surprise launch from a brand best known for its dive watches, Tudor just rolled out the 1926 Luna. It’s a thinnish, 39 mm dress watch with a moon phase – a first for Tudor – as well as a date, though in the typical Tudor style the case is still rated to 100 m and fitted to a solidly constructed steel bracelet. And unusually for a new launch from Tudor, the 1926 Luna is equipped with an ETA (or Sellita) calibre, which means lower specs than models powered by Tudor’s in-house movements, but also substantially more affordable at just US$2,800 or CHF2,400. The 1926 Luna debuts in three dial colours, including a champagne iteration that was conceived with the help of Jay Chou, a Taiwanese singer who’s one of the most famous musicians in the Mandarin-speaking world. Initial thoughts Tudor has long excelled at sports watches with high specs and low prices – making them some of the best value propositions out there – but dress watches have always been a weakness. The brand has made several attempts at dress watches with mixed results. The 1926 Luna, on the other hand, is much more promising. The design is classical, even a little conservative, but the look is appealing. The brushed dial in metallic colours give this a much more modern look than the rest of the 1926 line, which appears a little dated. Purists will complain about the date window, and it probably looks better on a leather strap than a bracelet, but the 1926 Luna is a strong proposition in its price...

Hands-on – Impressions about the new Omega Speedmaster FOiS (Side by Side with the Old FOiS) Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster FOiS Side Nov 6, 2024

Hands-on – Impressions about the new Omega Speedmaster FOiS (Side by Side with the Old FOiS)

The new Omega Speedmaster FOiS (for First Omega in Space) is the perfect example of a watch that’s not particularly spectacular, groundbreaking or innovative. But more often than not, a great watch doesn’t need to be a game-changer. The 2024 Speedmaster FOiS comes in continuity to a concept introduced in 2012, a vintage-inspired watch celebrating […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen 1 Oct 13, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2

It’s Sunday morning, and you all know what that means. Yes, it’s time for a cup of coffee and another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown! This week’s battle is all about the First Omega in Space. The big question is: which one do you like better? Jorg will make a case for the first-generation Speedmaster […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New 2024 Omega Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space) Fratello
Omega Speedmaster FOiS First Omega Oct 3, 2024

Hands-On With The New 2024 Omega Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space)

Almost four years ago, we announced that Omega was discontinuing the Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space) model. The watch debuted in 2012 to commemorate the first Omega chronograph worn in space on the wrist of NASA astronaut Walter “Wally” Schirra during his Sigma 7 mission. The Speedmaster on Schirra’s wrist was a second-generation (CK2998) […] Visit Hands-On With The New 2024 Omega Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space) to read the full article.

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date blends old-school complications with new-school sports watch vibes Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Feb 29, 2024

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date blends old-school complications with new-school sports watch vibes

This elevated take on the Overseas is the first retrograde display in a sports watch for this storied Swiss brand.The post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date blends old-school complications with new-school sports watch vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Apr 4, 2023

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date is the first retrograde display in a sports watch for the brand The watch comes ready for adventure, equipped with a trio of strap options Launching as a boutique exclusive, the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date brings tones down the sportiness of the collection Capitalising on the runaway … ContinuedThe post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions Time+Tide
Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Feb 22, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions

Junghans have a long and impressive history in the Black Forest region of Germany, so they’re definitely not afraid of some snow. Despite being famed for their heritage and Bauhaus designs, Junghans haven’t stopped developing new models and retro-futuristic styles either. The Junghans 1972 series captures two distinct levels of vintage oddity, now paired with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III Time+Tide
Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III Jan 27, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III

The Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III is released 10 years after the original version. The Face-2-Face III ditches the oval shape for a round one. It’s limited to 999 pieces. Hamilton definitely aren’t the first brand to come to mind when the topic of reversible watches comes up. However, as more independent brands tackle the flipping … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Jazzmaster Face-2-Face III appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.