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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).

Inside Tudor Manufacture: The Pursuit of Mechanical and Industrial Perfection SJX Watches
Tudor Manufacture May 1, 2023

Inside Tudor Manufacture: The Pursuit of Mechanical and Industrial Perfection

Tudor, in my estimation, makes watches that are the best value in the under-US$5,000 price segment. In fact, the brand arguably offers the best value proposition in most price segments, simply because its watches have specs, features, and quality that are unrivalled, even at several steps up the price ladder. The brand’s value proposition began in 2015 when Tudor launched its first in-house movement inside the unloved North Flag. But the compelling nature of its watches notwithstanding, Tudor has long suffered from being perceived as a “lesser” Rolex. In fairness, that was probably an apt description of the brand up until the mid 2000s when Tudor began its gradual but determined evolution into an independent brand. The most tangible testament to Tudor’s success as its own brand came online last year, when the Tudor manufacture in Le Locle began operations. The manufacture is the first time ever that Tudor has its own factory. Historically the brand relied on Rolex cases and outsourced movements, and operated from several floors inside the Rolex campus in Geneva. Now Tudor boasts an impressive, no-expense-spared facility that spans a generous 10,642 m2 (about 114,000 ft2), with half of that being workspace, a scale that easily allows for an annual production of up to the mid-six figures. With a roof covered in solar panels and a foundation that stretches deep into the bedrock of the Swiss Jura, the manufacture is a monument to high-quality, affordable watchmaking. ...

Split Decision, The Sequel: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Chronographs: An Owner’s Perspective Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs Sep 25, 2021

Split Decision, The Sequel: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Chronographs: An Owner’s Perspective

For reasons GaryG still doesn’t fully understand, he has long been drawn to chronographs. One nice thing he finds about comparing the Patek Philippe Reference 5370 against the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Homage to F.A. Lange is that it’s a fair fight between two purpose-built single rattrapante chronographs of classical construction. Here he puts them head to head.

Resonance Watches Compared: F.P. Journe vs. Armin Strom vs. Beat Haldimann, And The Pros And Cons Of Each Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe vs Armin Strom vs Jul 26, 2020

Resonance Watches Compared: F.P. Journe vs. Armin Strom vs. Beat Haldimann, And The Pros And Cons Of Each

Many people believe resonance to be very rare, when in fact every single timekeeping device (yes, even quartz) is a resonant mechanism. But clocks and watches featuring resonance as we generally understand it in watchmaking are few and far between. In the last few decades, less than a handful of highly skilled watchmakers have taken up the challenge of creating a resonance watch. Here, Joshua Munchow looks at the pros and cons of the different approaches taken by the three leaders in this technology.

Visiting The De Bethune Manufacture In The Swiss Mountains (Video): Is It A Spaceship? Quill & Pad
De Bethune Manufacture Jan 8, 2020

Visiting The De Bethune Manufacture In The Swiss Mountains (Video): Is It A Spaceship?

De Bethune is one of the most avant-garde watch brands on the planet. Knowing that, did you ever wonder what its factory looks like? Is it much different from other watch factories? What do this brand’s technicians do differently than others? How do they get the watches to look like that? And the most burning question: does the factory look like a spaceship? These questions and more get answered here.

In Partnership - Gatherings: The Porsche Way Of Swiss Watchmaking Comes To Watches Of Switzerland SoHo Hodinkee
Porsche Design s new watch manufacture Jun 30, 2026

In Partnership - Gatherings: The Porsche Way Of Swiss Watchmaking Comes To Watches Of Switzerland SoHo

Hot on the heels of the opening of Porsche Design's new watch manufacture in Grenchen, Switzerland, Hodinkee and Watches of Switzerland (the exclusive authorized watch retailer of Porsche Design in the U.S.), hosted an evening with the brand here in New York City. The night served as a perfect window for local collectors to explore Porsche Design's approach to watchmaking, including the latest watches and an impressive selection of heritage timepieces from the brand. After some time spent mingling and socializing along a bay of new and vintage Porsche 911s parked on Greene Street, attention turned to the conversation between Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang and Porsche Design Brand Ambassador (and actor) Orlando Bloom. In a wide-ranging discussion, TanTan and Orlando discussed the history of Porsche Design watches, highlights from their shared visit to the brand's newly opened Swiss Manufacture, and speculation about what's to come from the iconic design house. Housed at the base of the Jura Mountains, in the former home of Eterna Watches, the new headquarters of Porsche Design Timepieces represents a clear example of "The Porsche Way" of watchmaking. Since Professor Ferdinand Alexander Porsche expanded his design philosophy from cars into the large Porsche Design lifestyle brand in the 1970s, the new factory allows the brand to further its extraordinary level of technological innovation and intelligent design. A watchmaker from the newly opened Swiss Manufacture showcased the ...