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Fratello
There’s something about watches with a story - even if the story is almost entirely made up. When I strapped on Albishorn’s third model, the Thundergraph Himalaya, I wasn’t just wearing a watch but also connecting to a moment in history. Inspired by the 1952 Swiss expedition to Mount Everest, this watch combines vintage charm, […] Visit Hands-On With The Albishorn Thundergraph Himalaya to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
I’m fortunate enough to have been to Spain twice, to Seville and to Barcelona in 2018 and 2019. I fell in love with the country, the history, culture, architecture, food and lifestyle, and had wanted to come back ever since. My wife and I are foodies who truly enjoy fine dining and new eating experiences. When we went to Barcelona the first time, I heard of an amazing restaurant called Disfrutar (“enjoy” in Spanish), but was unable to get reservations at the time. Disfrutar has three Michelin Stars and was named the best restaurant in the world in 2024. I tried many times to get a reservation, but they book out one year in advance to the day, and are understandably quite popular. Late one night while watching TV in May of 2024, I randomly went to their website and, lo and behold, was able to procure a reservation for two on Friday, May 9, 2025. Well, that settled it, we were going to Spain in 2025! Spain is a place that we are considering spending a significant amount of time after retirement, so we wanted to use this trip as an opportunity to explore some areas that might be suitable to live/stay part-time in the future. After much research and deliberation, our itinerary was set. We would arrive in Madrid, stay there for five days, take the train to Córdoba for the day, and continue on to Málaga for a five day stay. Then, we’d rent a car and take a few days to drive the Costa Del Sol (the southern coast), ending up in Valencia for three days. And finally, we’...
Teddy Baldassarre
Is there a contemporary field watch as beloved and versatile as the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical? At this point the illustrious military history of the Khaki Field watch has been thoroughly explored (and if you’re not familiar with it, our resident historian Mark Bernardo has written an encyclopedic guide here). In short, Hamilton produced over a million watches for the United States military during World War II with its field watch in specific garnering praise for its universally consistent quality. This predecessor to the Khaki Field was a 34mm-wide field watch done in a chrome-plated metal case with radium lume dials and a manual-wind Caliber 987 movement. The modern Hamilton Watch Company was bought by the Swatch Group in 1974 with much of the production already having moved to Switzerland in 1969. The brand’s reassertion as a bonafide, authentic maker of military tool watches with historical provenance proliferated as an entire collection under the “Khaki” umbrella. While it was still producing watches for actual military units in the 1980s and ‘90s, Hamilton had done well by marketing to civilians once again in the wake of the Vietnam War. These early post-war civilian Hamilton Khaki watches were co-branded with retailers like Brookstone, Orvis, and L.L. Bean. This was also the time during which the “Khaki” logo began popping up on their dials. In 2018, Hamilton released the Khaki Field Mechanical which has gone on to be one of the most popular and b...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Doxa name is certainly among the superstars of the classic dive-watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional, as well as the black-dialed Sharkhunter version, as worn by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. But Doxa’s diving history predates the 1967 introduction of the 300, and today we’re looking at a watch that harks back to those earlier models, specifically those with twisted-lug cases that preceded the tonneau-shaped Sub 300 we associate most with the brand. This is the Doxa Sub 200, specifically the Sharkhunter variant, and it’s a fantastic-looking callback to the early ‘60s. Best of all, it represents the entry point into the modern Doxa lineup at just a shade above $1,000 retail, and if you’re not a fan of black dials, the brand known for its colorful divers has seven other colorways to choose from. But today, we’re going to take a closer look at the 200 that most closely resembles its vintage inspiration, the black-dialed Sharkhunter model. In its most basic black form, the dial is a slice of midcentury perfection. This is the watch Mad Men's Don Draper would wear on a weekend getaway to Palm Springs. Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Case: You'd be forgiven if you thought the case of the Sub 200 was influenced by a vintage Omega Seamaster 300, but it turns out that the look of the case is a direct callback to Doxa's history. The lyre-lugged design is a direct descendant of the vintage...
Hodinkee
History, friends, and some great watches in York, Pennsylvania
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Teddy Baldassarre
When Tudor released the Pelagos FXD in late 2021 an important element of the brand's heritage was brought to light with it. A rich history of working with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale, was now being tied to a modern creation from Tudor in a new partnership. While the history brings an unusual depth to this watch (no pun intended), it’s the manner in which the Tudor Pelagos FXD has been executed that has made it truly interesting to a modern audience. This wasn’t a throwback design commemorating the past. Rather, this was a function-forward, modern design, built to spec for a niche group of divers in the French Navy. The FXD is a natural evolution of the Pelagos ethos, and its slightly unconventional approach has cemented its place in the hearts of many enthusiasts. Tudor took a slightly different route with the FXD when compared to the existing Pelagos references. The watch was designed with input from the Marine Nationale’s Commando Hubert unit in order to better suit its combat divers' needs for a specific maneuver they employed while traversing underwater. This maneuver would have them swimming segments in a set direction for a set period of time, before adjusting time and direction to tackle subsequent sections. To better assist in this exercise, the fully indexed bezel is bidirectional, and counts down rather than tracks elapsed time. This allows for fast, precise movement (this is a 120-click bezel), and no ambiguity when measuring a pre-set lengt...
Monochrome
Synonymous with luxury fountain pens, Montblanc expanded its portfolio to include watches in 1997, with aesthetics inspired by its famous Meisterstück pens. Intent on demonstrating its watchmaking credentials, Montblanc acquired the legendary Minerva manufacture and released the Nicolas Rieussec chronograph in 2007. An unusual chronograph with revolving registers and a fascinating history, the Nicolas Rieussec […]
Fratello
Like many watch brands, TAG Heuer regularly produces limited or special editions. The difference, and advantage, however, is the brand’s history and involvement with top-tier motorsports. Legions of racers wore vintage Heuer watches during the golden age of racing in the 1960s. None, though, stand out quite like the Monaco. The groundbreaking square watch is […] Visit Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf to read the full article.
When it comes to the Windup Watch Fair, each stop on the tour has its own distinct personality-and for Chicago, it’s all about bold character, deep history, and a certain cool confidence that comes from being the cultural capital of the Midwest. To celebrate both 150 years of their company and 10 years of the Windup Watch Fair, Bulova returns with another exclusive timepiece from its new, cult-favorite Snorkel series. This time, the brand turns its eye to the Windy City with a striking charcoal grey colorway that captures the urban elegance of downtown Chicago and reflects the sleek contours of one of its most iconic landmarks: Cloud Gate. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, July 11 – Sunday, July 13, 2024 Venue West 221 N Paulina St Chicago, IL 60612 Free and open to the public. The post Chicago Style: Bulova Unveils Another Exclusive Snorkel Edition for Windup Watch Fair Chicago appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Teddy Baldassarre
We’re back at it again with another "alternatives" roundup for some of the most iconic watches in watchmaking history, and in this episode, we’re getting more quirky than we ever have before. Which is only fitting given today’s subject, which is one of the most subversive watch designs of all time: the illustrious Cartier Crash. Before I launch into some quick Cartier Crash history and then contemporary alternatives at multiple budgets, let’s establish some key design ingredients in the recipe at hand. Because I didn’t want to make you all eat up some AliExpress Cartier Crash phonies, and because the design is so iconic that most watchmakers haven’t really attempted their own imitations, I will be leaning into asymmetry or hints at surrealism here instead of more 1:1 design alternatives. Before I begin, I will say that the avant-garde era of the 1960s and '70s, before the big houses had such rigid design codes, is one of my favorites in watchmaking history. Here in the modern age, many brands seem less willing to experiment boldly, and really keep things, largely, safe. Still, there are some asymmetrical watch gems out there, and below, they will get a little time in the spotlight. I will warn you now that on the current market, prices for more bold watch designs run a little steep, so the budget I’m working around here is at a higher price point than I try to stick to (though I have thrown in some affordable options). But given the exorbitant prices of the...
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Monochrome
The small German town of Glashütte is steeped in watchmaking history, as we all know. No less than 12 brands, from high-end to more accessible, are nestled there, making it the historic and beating heart of German mechanical watchmaking. Being able to bear the town’s name on one’s dial is also something quite special, as […]
Monochrome
The Conquest collection holds a rather special place in the history of Longines. It was Longines’ first collection to be trademarked – in 1954 with the Swiss Federal Institute of Intellectual Property. This was a pivotal moment for Longines as organising models by collection increased product identification. Since then, the name has remained and today […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Before getting into the CasiOak, let's revisit some brand history. Japan’s Casio, renowned as the producer of the world’s first portable electronic calculator, released its first watch, the quartz-powered Casiotron, in 1974. But it wasn’t until 1983 that the electronics giant really made an impact on the timepiece world with the introduction of the first G-Shock. Conceived by Casio engineer Kikuo Ibe, who had experienced the loss of the beloved pocket watch his father had given him after he accidentally dropped it on a hard floor, the G-Shock was positioned from the beginning to be the world’s toughest watch, and the first to use urethane rubber in its construction. From the original DW5000-C (recent version pictured above), with its rectangular case, all-digital LCD timekeeping display, and quartz movement with 10-year battery life, sprang an extensive family of G-Shocks, which by the time of the model’s 40th anniversary in 2023 would include both digital and analog-digital models as well as a variety of high-tech case materials. In 2019, the G-Shock family tree added a branch that made fans of a certain type of high-end sport-luxury timepiece stand up and take notice - namely the so-called “CasiOak” models (below), whose roots, it could be argued, reach back not only farther than the first G-Shock but even farther than the Casiotron. Why "CasiOak?" It was a Swiss luxury watch, as groundbreaking in its own way as the G-Shock, that ultimately paved the w...
Teddy Baldassarre
[This feature article has been updated to incorporate the newest models – including the new 42mm and 38mm sizes – in the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms collection as of 2025. Prices listed are current as of this article's posting but subject to change.] Founded in 1735 in Villeret, Switzerland, Blancpain is the oldest luxury watchmaker in the world, full stop. The 287-year-old manufacture, now headquartered in Le Brassus in the Swiss Vallée de Joux, has an uninterrupted history of producing horological complications but its most iconic timepiece in this modern era began its life as a tool watch for military divers in the (relatively) recent year of 1953. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, however, is not just any tool watch; it’s recognized as one of the foundational examples of the modern dive watch, helping to establish a template that many others would follow. Today, it’s the foundation for a vast and versatile collection within the Blancpain portfolio - despite the fact that the watch almost didn’t make it out of the 1970s. DIVING INTO HISTORY The quest to make a watch water-resistant enough for diving was already well underway when Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then-CEO of Blancpain, began working on the watch that would become the Fifty Fathoms. Rolex had developed the water-resistant Oyster case in 1926, which paved the way for watches such as Panerai’s Radiomir in 1936, which combined a waterproof case with a luminous dial for the underwater missions of the Italian n...
Quill & Pad
The majority of today's numerous flieger-style watches are inspired by the now-iconic German pilot’s and navigator's watches of World War II, becoming a genre unto themselves. Bhanu Chopra flies high to take a deep dive into the long history of this popular style.
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Celebrity watch collections can tell you a lot about someone’s taste — especially when Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Tudor, IWC, Tag Heuer, G-Shock, and J...
Time+Tide
Simple, durable and with plenty of history behind them, we take a closer look at our favourite MIL-SPEC watches.The post 12 of the best MIL-SPEC watches for soldiers and civvies alike appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The Beetle. If ever there was a poster car to represent car culture, it should be this one. Despite its shady origins, it has become a symbol of the free, the custom car spirit, and the hunger for adventure. It was born in one of the darkest times of modern history, yet it has made […]
Fratello
I have had the pleasure of meeting Josh Shapiro, owner of the eponymously named J.N. Shapiro Watches, several times. Hailing from Los Angeles, he has a wealth of knowledge about watchmaking history, movements, and finishing techniques. Until now, he has focused on exclusive and expensive watches with prices over $75,000 and wait times of nearly […] Visit Introducing: The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure to read the full article.
Monochrome
A couple of days ago, we published a long, in-depth article on the history of one of the most important watchmaking dynasties, Urban Jürgensen. There were more reasons for this article than just celebrating this historic name, which was founded in 1773. This article was here to prepare the grounds for what is happening today, […]
Worn & Wound
Bauhaus design, though never really leaving the spotlight, is certainly in a bit of a renaissance these days, with its focus on stylistic simplicity and function appealing to contemporary audiences just as successfully as it did during its heyday a full century ago. German watchmaker Stowa, however, is taking the history and legacy of the style in a more defined direction, with their latest Antea Classic KS in rose gold and anthracite. According to the brand, they’ve been making Bahaus-style watches in Germany since 1937, and argue that perhaps the State School of Design (the originator of Bauhaus, which existed from 1919 to 1933) was a more direct influence on watchmakers of the 1930s than previously thought. In celebration of that marriage of influential German design and horology, Stowa has been producing a modernized version of its first Bauhaus watch since 2004. The new Antea Classic KS references continue that tightly-wound history, with new touches to appeal to current trends in watchmaking and design. Since the original 1937 model wore a copper dial in a chrome-plated case, Stowa has reintroduced a version of that color combination with the new references. Both feature a highly-polished 35.5mm (44.6mm lug-to-lug) stainless steel case, which envelops the sunburst dial in either rose gold or anthracite. Temperature-blued steel hands sweep around the dial, pointing to thin and tall white Roman numerals with no indexes between each hour, giving the dial a very cl...
Video
In today's vlog, I'm getting ready for the massive trip to London and Geneva for Watches & Wonders! I show you the watches I'm bringing (including my grandfather's vintage Patek Philippe and a JLC pink gold) and why w...
Fratello
Ollech & Wajs is a brand that is not covered all that often. There is much to like, though, when one starts to investigate the brand’s history as well as its current offerings. Indeed, it is a brand that resonates with me. Something about Ollech & Wajs’s no-nonsense tool-watch designs and rich past makes for […] Visit How Ollech & Wajs Watches Contributed To A 1960s Arctic Diving Expedition to read the full article.
Monochrome
In haute horlogerie, few relationships have shaped timekeeping history quite like that of John Arnold and Abraham-Louis Breguet. Bound by shared respect and a deep commitment to mechanical innovation, their friendship helped lay the groundwork for modern precision watchmaking. Arnold & Son’s latest release, the Constant Force Tourbillon 11, is a tribute to that legacy […]
Hodinkee
From history to high-complication, TAG Heuer drops a bit of everything with these new releases in honor of this weekend's Monaco Grand Prix.
Monochrome
Few brands can look back on a history in aviation timekeeping as Longines. The brand’s archive is as broad as it is deep, with names like Weems, Lindbergh and Majetek being just the tip of the iceberg. Today, Longines looks back in time yet again to celebrate a century of the Zulu, a name linked […]
Monochrome
TAG Heuer keeps strengthening its links with motorsport and the history of racing… Among other initiatives, LVMH and TAG Heuer just signed a major deal with Formula 1, and the brand has just become the first title partner of the Monaco Grand Prix, which is now the Formula 1 TAG Heuer Grand Prix de Monaco. […]
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The Tudor Monarch is a complication of Tudor's history: Snowflake, Oyster, Error-Dial.
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