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Baltic Aquascaphe Review: The Microbrand's Cult-Classic Diver Teddy Baldassarre
Baltic Mar 17, 2026

Baltic Aquascaphe Review: The Microbrand's Cult-Classic Diver

A forerunner of both the rise of microbrands and the ongoing revival of France’s watchmaking industry here in the 21st Century, Baltic Watches emerged on the scene in 2017, originally as a Kickstarter project. Founder Étienne Malec discovered the inspiration for his watchmaking enterprise in his father’s watch collection and named the company in honor of his father’s Polish roots, after the sea off the country’s northern coast. The goal from the start, according to Malec, was to produce “timeless pieces, of the highest quality, for fair prices,” and most would agree that Baltic has delivered on this mission statement. Baltic watches are all assembled in a workshop in Besançon, France, the nation’s historical cradle of watchmaking, and evoke vintage timepieces like the ones Malec’s father collected and extensively catalogued in his journals. Here we will look at the Baltic Aquascaphe, one of their most recognizable watches. The first Baltic watches were the three-hand HMS 001 model, with a Japanese Miyota caliber, and the hand-wound Bicompax 001 chronograph, with the Chinese Seagull ST19 movement. While both these watches were successful, and put Baltic on its path to fan-favorite microbrand status, the small company has since become best known for its Aquascaphe series of dive watches. The Aquascaphe, which was launched in 2018, takes its design inspiration from early “skin diver” watches of the 1950s and ‘60s, with no small amount of influence from...

Hits and Misses: Hands-On with Louis Vuitton’s Latest High Watchmaking Collections Worn & Wound
Louis Vuitton s Latest High Watchmaking Mar 17, 2026

Hits and Misses: Hands-On with Louis Vuitton’s Latest High Watchmaking Collections

This year’s LVMH Watch Week looked a little different. It was held in Milan just ahead of the Winter Olympic Games and was limited to a highly exclusive and mostly international guest list. As such, several of the maisons under the LVMH umbrella separately held their own dedicated events here in NYC to exhibit their latest collections as soon as the pieces came available stateside. We finally got our hands on Louis Vuitton’s newest high watchmaking novelties at its massive five-story flagship on Madison Avenue in New York City. In addition, we got the chance to preview a model that will debut later this spring, and spoiler alert: it’s going to knock your socks off. So, stay tuned for that in the coming months. For now, let’s get down to it – we have a lot of ground to cover. Here, we have a slew of new watches joining two of Louis Vuitton’s core collections: the Escale and the Tambour. As a quick refresher, the maison broke from the traditional high fashion space and into the watch sphere back in the late 80s with the Monterey. However, it was really the Tambour, which came a few decades later just after the new millennium in 2002 that started to establish Louis Vuitton in the horological world. The collection has since become the cornerstone of the brand’s watchmaking identity with staying power over the past 20+ years. I guess I’m too giddy to jump to my favorite piece in the new lineup first – the Tambour was the frontrunner of the bunch for me. Here, ...

Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Mar 16, 2026

Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel

The 150 Heritage pocket watch, the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, and the skeletonized Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar might have stolen most of the limelight when Audemars Piguet presented many novelties in January. Nevertheless, the pieces I was probably most curious to see and try on were a series of three tool watches. Well, these are […] Visit Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel to read the full article.

Girard-Perregaux Chimes the Time In-House SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Chimes Mar 12, 2026

Girard-Perregaux Chimes the Time In-House

Girard-Perregaux (GP) is starting the year with an ambitious new calibre inside the Minute Repeater Flying Bridges, the in-house GP9530. Also equipped with a tourbillon, the symmetrical, skeleton movement is a micro-rotor automatic, making for an exciting pairing of complications. Notably, even during GP’s heyday as a manufacture, it depended on specialists for its repeater movements. The GP9530 is the brand’s first in-house minuter repeating calibre (though it does borrow from an earlier striking movement created with the help of a complications specialist). The strikework is exposed on the dial, while the reverse reveals the winding mechanism under circular bridges. Initial thoughts In the past couple of years GP has been slowly making a comeback, after a few slow years, as a serious and motivated manufacture. The comeback started with the release of the reworked constant-force escapement and accelerated with last year’s unveiling of the workhorse GP4800 and the GP9620 skeleton tourbillon. This is in some ways a return to form. Historically GP was a powerhouse in this respect, making complicated movements under its own name as well as supplying movements, both complex and simple, to other high-end brands. At that time, however, GP still did source repeater movements from the likes of Christophe Claret. In time, the evolution of the industry reduced the need for such outsourced movements, and the marquee’s lustre dulled. The Minute Repeater Flying Bridges and its ...

A Case for the Royal Oak and Other Hot Takes on Audemars Piguet’s First Semester Novelties Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet s First Semester Novelties Mar 10, 2026

A Case for the Royal Oak and Other Hot Takes on Audemars Piguet’s First Semester Novelties

I’ve been a freelance journalist for 14 years, and while watches have been part of my repertoire since the beginning, I didn’t fully niche into the horological sphere until 2018. One of the assignments I consider to be a breakout story that really gave my career in the watch world momentum came a year later in 2019. At the time, I was writing for The Hour Glass, and I had the opportunity to cover the inauguration of the Gérald Genta Heritage Association. In my then seven-year journey ascending to full horological obsession, I had come to revere Genta as one of the most influential figures in the history of watchmaking, and, in particular, I was charmed by the story of how the Royal Oak came to be. Yes, I have since referenced, been told, and retold the tale dozens of times over, but for me, Genta and the creation of the Royal Oak – the moment that arguably gave his career in the watch world momentum – will never get old and forever hold a special place in my heart.  With that said, I’m here to share my hands-on experience with Audemars Piguet’s first semester novelties thanks to a recent trip to AP House in downtown New York City. Among them are several new versions of the Royal Oak, and while none of these are the frontrunner of the lineup, they still bear recognition in my humble opinion. Yes, I will have to respectfully disagree with my Editorial Director Zach Kazan’s opinion piece defining the Royal Oak as “a pure flex.” Sure, like countless luxury ...

Why the Plotter Notebook Cover Is One of the Best Refillable Leather Notebooks Worn & Wound
Mar 9, 2026

Why the Plotter Notebook Cover Is One of the Best Refillable Leather Notebooks

Look, I’m not going to say that I have all the answers here, people, but if there’s one thing I know how to spot, it’s a good notebook. While taxes may send me into a tailspin and I enter a fugue state any time that I’m forced to load the dishwasher, I can confidently say that if you want your notes written down and you want to carry around something that’s aesthetically pleasing…well, I’ll humbly say that I’m your guy for the right answer. Partially, my knowledge of notebooks is collateral damage because of my job – it doesn’t take a rocket scientist (or even someone who knows how to load a dishwasher) to see a job in pens has given me a deep understanding for what one writes with as much as what one writes on. To this effect, I have a general knowledge of the pros and cons of legal pads versus Moleskines, washi tape versus Scotch. But that stuff can be found fairly easily – Reddit, for better or worse, is a gold mine of information on stationery. But the other reason I find myself knowing about stationery is, quite simply, it’s a passion of mine. While some may find something akin to passion in their marriage or by binge watching Heated Rivalry, I’m much more likely to get butterflies ripping the cellophane off a new notebook versus ripping – you get the picture. This is all to say that, when I tell you Plotter makes some of the most beautiful notebook covers out there, you need to believe me. And when I tell you that pricetag flirting somewhe...

De Rijke & Co. and Guy Allen Just Dropped Another Limited Edition Collab Worn & Wound
Reservoir s Mar 6, 2026

De Rijke & Co. and Guy Allen Just Dropped Another Limited Edition Collab

Once again, here I am late to the party as our own Zach Kazan blows my mind with another brand specializing in artistic dials featuring my favorite métiers d’art craft: enameling. You may recall when he first covered the partnership between De Rijke & Co. and the illustrator Guy Allen two years ago. Now the duo is back with another trio of driver’s watches spanning on the previous Amalfi theme, this time with a stronger focus on the automotive angle. While the Dutch watchmaker and the British artist have been teaming up for nearly a decade, the pair took their work to the next level in 2024 by collaborating on their first set of watches, establishing the Amalfi special editions. The initial set of three watches focused on the themes of air, land, and sea with distinct designs and color palettes reflecting each element. Thanks to champlevé enamel, the illustrations come to life with texture and depth. For the uninitiated, the specific technique of champlevé enamel (French for “raised field”) is similar to cloisonné. However, instead of raised sections to hold enamel, reservoirs to hold the material are created by carving directly into the metal base. The newest trio builds on these designs, but now takes the automotive theme more literally on both the enamel dial and the engraved caseback. The names of the models draw from three regions, the Amazon, Sahara, and Turini, and each gets a corresponding vehicle you might drive there. For the Amazon, you get the Landr...

Bangalore Watch Company Review: India's Horological Frontier Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 4, 2026

Bangalore Watch Company Review: India's Horological Frontier

When surveying the horological landscape, most roads lead back to Switzerland, Germany, or Japan. But there is a burgeoning watchmaking scene emerging in India of all places and it certainly deserves our attention. Here we are going to adjust our loupe to the vibrant, burgeoning powerhouse that is Indian horology, specifically the microbrand Bangalore Watch Company. When you survey the broader horological landscape today, microbrands have become the absolute frontier of enthusiast watchmaking. These small independents are giving collectors access to serious mechanical specifications and originality without the traditional luxury markups. India is finally translating its massive cultural and technological footprint into this segment of watch collecting, and Bangalore Watch Company appears to be at the forefront of this transition. In this article, we’ll take a deep dive into what makes these watches so unique and what you need to know before you add one to your collection. [toc-section heading="Filling the Void After HMT"] To truly understand what you’re getting with Bangalore Watch Company, you have to understand the massive void it stepped into. For decades, the Indian watch market had been dominated by state-run enterprise Hindustan Machine Tools, better known as HMT (the undisputed king of South Asian watchmaking during the 1960s and 80s). Estimates suggest that HMT’s lifetime production exceeded a staggering one hundred million timepieces, generating an appetite ...

Czapek Introduces Two New Exotic Mother of Pearl Dials in the Promenade and Antarctique Collections Worn & Wound
Czapek Introduces Two New Exotic Mar 3, 2026

Czapek Introduces Two New Exotic Mother of Pearl Dials in the Promenade and Antarctique Collections

If you had told me a few years ago that much of what I’d be doing at Worn & Wound in terms of new release coverage would be writing about mother of pearl and stone dial executions like a beat reporter at small town paper assigned to the high school basketball team, I probably would not have believed it. But here we are, multiple years into a trend that does not really seem to be letting up. It started with a resurfacing of high end vintage watches with exotic stone dials, moved to bigger brands capitalizing on the hype, shifted to smaller makers and microbrands offering impossibly affordable options, and now we’re back at the high end, and seeing brands looking for new ways to combine stones and materials in novel ways.  Last week, Czapek announced a pair of watches that make particularly interesting use of mother of pearl. The Antarctique S Ice Cloud is, at a glance, simply an Antarctique with a mother of pearl dial. But there’s some special artisanal work that has gone into the making of this particular dial, which has been conceived as a “poetic interpretation of cloud formations in an icy landscape.”  The dial is constructed from a piece of white mother of pearl that is cut to just 0.2mm thick – the height of two sheets of paper, according to Czapek. A varnish is then applied to the underside of the mother of pearl surface using a horsehair brush, which creates a cloudlike pattern that is unique to each dial. The varnish itself is tinted blue, and the art...

First Look – The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, the Icon in Dark Mode Monochrome
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Feb 26, 2026

First Look – The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, the Icon in Dark Mode

Since its introduction in 1998, the classic IWC Portugieser Chronograph (ref. IW3914) has barely evolved visually. It has only undergone a technical upgrade in 2020, with the introduction of a new generation featuring a manufacture calibre inside (ref. IW3916). And that consistency in the design and overall sporty-chic, nautically-inspired spirit is what makes this watch […]

New York’s Hold on Pizza, Once Considered Unassailable, Is Now Being Questioned – From Australia and Britain Worn & Wound
Feb 25, 2026

New York’s Hold on Pizza, Once Considered Unassailable, Is Now Being Questioned – From Australia and Britain

I’m going to say something quite controversial here, dear Reader, and tell you that I think pizza, in general, is just okay. I’ve had Neapolitan-style in Naples and Chicago-style in Chicago, and even Altoona-style in Altoona (for the unfamiliar, it’s got green peppers and American cheese on it and is disgusting). I’ve just never been especially impressed. With pepperoni or without, deep-dish or thin-crusted, it’s all the same to me. I mean, I like pizza, but I’m not one of those performative yuppies who sit behind their keyboard (okay, I am right now, but that’s because I’m getting paid to be) and tell you about the virtues of this type of tomato and that type of dough and the purity of ingredients and how pineapple on pizza isn’t real pizza and blah, blah, blah. Like I said, it’s not that I don’t like pizza. I just don’t think it’s anything to get worked up about. To me, it’s in the same category as Jacob Elordi or any organized religion: I have no strong opinions either way, I just don’t need to be told why it’s great all the time. Perhaps this is why I was dubious at first glance about the return of two pizza-inspired watches by Studio Underd0g and Time+Tide: the Burnt Pepper0ni and the Classic Cheese. Following the first pair of pizza watches released in 2024, this new iteration builds on that cult following with updated designs that lean into the theme without losing the brand language that has come to define Studio Underd0g. First, the...

Introducing – Spectacular New Editions of the Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Monochrome
Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Having Feb 24, 2026

Introducing – Spectacular New Editions of the Piaget Limelight Gala Precious

Having mastered the art of ultra-thin mechanical movements, Piaget made its foray into jewellery watches in the 1960s. Unveiled at the Basel Fair in 1969, Piaget’s 21st Century Collection showcased avant-garde jewellery watches, including textured gold cuffs with hardstone dials, powered by the brand’s ultra-thin 2mm manual-winding calibre 9P. In 1973, Piaget introduced the predecessor […]

SJX Podcast: Jumping on Trends SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Feb 24, 2026

SJX Podcast: Jumping on Trends

On episode 30 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss to what extent the latest crop of jump hour watches constitutes a trend. In just the first six weeks of 2026, several new jump hour models have been released, including a new collection from Audemars Piguet and the relaunch of the Niton brand, which is discussed in detail. Even the Louis Vuitton Convergence also fits into this trend aesthetically, despite being a dragging hours construction. SJX also provides context on the leading jump hour watches in the industry, including the Zeitwerk, Vagabondage III, and Opus 3, and the latest from Berneron. SJX also shares views on whether reliability still matters in today’s market. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Orient Star’s M34 F8 Skeleton is Space-Age Tech SJX Watches
Seiko Epson including Feb 18, 2026

Orient Star’s M34 F8 Skeleton is Space-Age Tech

Orient Star marks a milestone with the M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding 75th Anniversary, combining the brand’s technically adept, manually wound skeleton calibre with a novel, laser-engraved meteorite pattern in a maximalist open-worked package. The M34 F8 Skeleton also stands out for the tech inside the mechanical movement: proprietary silicon escape wheel with a novel, optimistic geometry that helps the M34 punch above its weight from a technical standpoint. Initial thoughts Last year, Orient Star launched the brand’s first manually wound moon phase – made of mother-of-pearl no less – for fans of understated, formal watches. Now celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star has cast aside restraint to mark the occasion with something for a more maximalist breed of collector. The new skeleton has a blacked-out case and bracelet and an open-worked version of its top-of-the-line F8 movement. Notably, the movement plates are bridges, which are exposed front and back, are decorated with a laser-etched meteorite motif that is impressively detailed. This skeletonised anniversary limited edition also features the latest technology from its powerhouse parent company Seiko Epson, including a silicon escape wheel with an especially advantageous design. While silicon is increasingly common in the watch industry, it is used primarily for hairsprings. This puts Orient on the list of short brands with a proprietary silicon escape wheel that includes blue-chip names like Patek Phil...

SJX Podcast: Audemars Piguet Thinks Beyond the Royal Oak SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Thinks Beyond Feb 16, 2026

SJX Podcast: Audemars Piguet Thinks Beyond the Royal Oak

Recorded shortly after Brandon’s return from Audemars Piguet’s launch event in Switzerland, Episode 28 of the SJX Podcast provides analysis of all the brand’s new releases, including the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, the 150 Heritage pocket watch, the upgraded Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm and its new in-house movement, and the latest open-worked perpetual calendar, which works equally well in Code 11.59 and Royal Oak guise. The conversation also touches on the internal reorganisation at AP that saw the creation of a multi-disciplinary fabrication laboratory dubbed the ‘Fab Lab.’ Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Grand Seiko’s Smallest High-End Quartz Models Yet SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s Smallest High-End Quartz Feb 12, 2026

Grand Seiko’s Smallest High-End Quartz Models Yet

Grand Seiko has installed its high-end quartz calibre 9F in a 33 mm stainless steel case with fan-favourite textured dials, making one of the most advanced analogue quartz movements available in the smallest and slimmest format to date. The compact proportions of the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Quartz 33mm “Snowflake” SBGX359 and “Skyflake” SBGX361 are possible thanks to a new member of the 9F family: the cal. 9F51. Though smaller, the new calibre retains all the technical bells and whistles of this class-leading quartz platform. Ref. SBGX359 (Snowflake). Initial thoughts While Grand Seiko’s quartz models are generally known as good value propositions, with the cal. 9F in particular representing a lot of movement for the money, that has generally been less true of the brand’s smaller models. These maintain the brand’s standout case and dial work but with relatively pedestrian cal. 4J movements. Though above average in terms of quality and technology, the cal. 4J lacks the torque necessary to accommodate the exceptionally large and refined hands found on most Grand Seikos. Ref. SBGX361 (Skyflake). Given the brand’s recent emphasis on Spring Drive technology, seemingly at the expense of battery-powered quartz movements, that seemed unlikely to change. In this context, this duo is a pleasant surprise, with more likely to follow, and offers a no-compromise Grand Seiko experience in a smaller size without the high price tags of the ladies automatic line. A ...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Feb 10, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked

Audemars Piguet (AP) has updated the coveted Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked, which makes its debut on the next-generation perpetual calendar platform that debuted last year. The new calibre allows for individual adjustment of each calendar indication using just the crown – no stylus (or toothpick) necessary. The first outing for the skeletonised version of this class-leading perpetual calendar is in titanium, with mirror polished accents in scratch-resistant Palladium BMG and pops of rose gold on the dial and case back, though more colourways are sure to come in due time. Initial thoughts The latest generation of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is arguably AP’s strongest product. It is heir to the archetypal integrated bracelet perpetual calendar sports watch, which, until recently, was held back to some extent by what had become a dated movement. In fairness, the same can be said of its obvious competitors from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. That changed in 2025 when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was upgraded with the AP’s latest perpetual calendar movement, a significant release befitting the brand’s 150th anniversary year. The calibre 7138 introduced individual correction of the date, day, month, and moon phase using only the crown, allowing for quick adjustment without tools and with greater flexibility, and support for more indications, than existing solutions. And while we already understood the movement’s clever functionality, it rema...

Hands-on – The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Feb 6, 2026

Hands-on – The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked

Perpetual calendars are, without a doubt, an integral part of Audemars Piguet’s history, and the Royal Oak has carried its strand very convincingly since 1984. With the introduction of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked powered by the new Calibre 7139, AP signals a clear generational shift. Released alongside a Code 11.59 counterpart, which […]

Audemars Piguet Upgrades the Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Upgrades Feb 4, 2026

Audemars Piguet Upgrades the Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm

Audemars Piguet (AP) updates the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm with a new manufacture calibre, sapphire display back, while slightly tweaking the iconic design – and retaining the price of its predecessor. The new cal. 6401 comes with welcome quality-of-life improvements such as a longer power reserve and instantaneous date without tradeoffs in wearability, beat rate, or even cost, making this compact chronograph one of the most sensible and compelling offerings in the Royal Oak line. Initial Thoughts AP debuted the first Royal Oak chronograph in 1997 and it was powered by the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185, a landmark movement for automatic chronograph design. Now, nearly three decades later, AP is a true industrialised manufacture, and the cal. 1185 has been replaced with the new cal. 6401, a modern movement that with meaningful upgrades under the hood. This also comes with some minute tweaks to the dial and a crowd pleasing display case back, while the case and bracelet remain as excellent as always. Laudably, this comes without a significant price increase, with the new Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm in steel costing only 3.6% more than its predecessor. New Engine AP’s new cal. 6401 is a solidly-spec’ed movement despite being small and thin for a modern chronograph. It’s wide and taller than the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185 but only slightly. It is 27 mm in diameter (up from 26.2 mm) and 5.7 mm tall (up from 5.5 mm) though even with the addition of a sapphire ...

Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro with the Neo Frame SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro Feb 4, 2026

Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro with the Neo Frame

Ahead of its much anticipated Watches & Wonders return, Audemars Piguet (AP) has reached deep into its archives for what in past years would have been a [RE]Master model. But now AP has renamed its vintage reissues, and it is the Neo Frame Jumping Hour that takes inspiration from a similar guichet model from 1929. This perfectly timed launch comes at a time of renewed interest in the digital display format. Initial thoughts Each time an established brand launches a completely new collection, the public response can be either positive (think Rolex Land-Dweller) or underwhelming. AP has come face-to-face with this in the past with the Code 11.59, which was bold but not well received initially (though much of the early criticism can be chalked up to cynicism). That experience hasn’t stopped the brand from continuing to diversify its portfolio away from the Royal Oak, and the latest effort capitalises on the growing interest in guichet watches. In doing so, AP reimagines an obscure piece from its own past, adding strong touches of modern design to create something with a more distinctive visual identity than one might expect from a simple jumping hours watch. Though the Neo Frame nomenclature might take a while to enter the vernacular, the guichet design feels like it’s coming to market at the right time. Ironically, the sleek profile of the Neo Frame’s case looks much like a sports smart band - albeit much glossier. Specifically, the way the polished black face connec...